Chris32

Just a quick question - are slotted rotors worth having? I have slotted rotors at the moment, but I am replacing my front brakes with R33 GTSt brakes I can get new standard rotors for around $100ea, or slotted DBA 4000 for $260ea Either way I will be using Racebrake RB74 pads, which I am told, Racebrakes don't reccomend using them with slotted rotors? Cheers, Chris

well, over the weekend things didn't go quite to plan with the dump pipe Upon removal of my current setup, I found that the two dumps I had, had a differant flange on the exhaust housing of the turbo - bugger! To top it of, my power steering packed up, so tonights tune has be posponed until I get my steering fixed I also found out that the dump/front pipe I have is only 2.5" in diameter, and to make it worse the cat (if you could call it that ) had dodgy 2" gaskets on it! I never measured the dump/front pipe, just took the work of a well known adelaide parts store that sells parts for people who enjoy japanese motor sports where it was all fitted I replaced these and saw a increase in boost from 1.15bar to 1.28bar on the same duty cycle, so they where a definate restriction. The fact that the gasket closest to the turbo was all warped and melted may also indicate some for of restriction So, once the power steering is fixed, a 3.5" dump pipe from the turbo back will be going on, and a bit of tuning to make sure its all running sweet It would be interesting to see what differance just the bigger gaskets make, judging by the boost increase, it would have to make a bit more due to less restrction Chris P.S Roy -I will have PFC excel chart emailed to you hopefully tomorrow, after spending many hours on the weekend on the car I'd had enough once the power steering went, sorry mate

Will be doing it cold, first thing in the morning I hope Plan is to removal the exhaust manifold heat shield etc and un-bolt it and bolt the other one up, hopefully

I have two to try, one is a HKS style split dump pipe, and the other is a dump/front pipe in one of a mates R33, judging by whats for sale in the shops the 33 and 32 front/dump pipes you can buy fir both no probs Hoping to try both out

any of you guys thought it could be the air flow meter? Thats what I'd look at, coils and plugs would see more of a misfire at high rpm, either fuel or airflow meter i would say? Chris

Hey guys, Swapping dump pipes on my car this weekend, anything I should be cautious of when doing this? Any tips on how to make it easier etc regards, Chris

sorry, should have mentioned, after a manual Chris

lol....3lts of displacement has turned to poor old RB turbs into a positve displacement blower!!!! Well, you hate lag, so you'd be loving it at the moment! I'll have to take you for a spin in mine and show you what mines like, Chris

Yeah, might do, but I will get a print out for free after Shaun does more tuning of monday I will get one with AFR's and PSI on it as well, the tune I have now was a bit compromised due to the bleed valve spiking, so we left it pretty conservitive for the time being until we get the boost controller sorted out Good to see your car up and running Joel, will be good to see what its like with a decent turbo and a bit of boost

Roy - Agree with dyno's being not too good for comparisons, but a run on the same dyno would allow us to draw a pretty accurate comparison Your car will be fine at the drags mate, hopefully there are a few gains to be had by replacing the cat. Not sure about the CAS, maybe they have put the cam gears back a tooth out or something, that place seems to be as dodgy as a Ultratune mate!?!?! Will check maps out this arvo, its pissing down with rain here so I don't have much to do at lunch, I will write them down R31 - to be honest I havent noticed exactly what RPM I get 12psi at, I'd say it would be in the low 3000's, but it all depends on the load/gear etc, I will investigate further but it comes on quite early. Yours is a 2535 if I remember correctly? Exhaust manifold should be done by the end of the month, trying a few dump/front pipe combo's on the weekend too, trying to optimise it for more tuning on monday

I agree with Matt, if all hooks up and you get a decent run, the power is there for a 12 mate, and you are running good rubber, which helps allot As I said in the other thread, just do a few drive of the line type runs and see what mph your car is running, if you can get a few runs around 110mph, with a good launch (under 2.2sec 60ft) there should be a 12 sec time slip waiting for you at the timing box If I can coax another 10-15rwkw out of mine, I'd expect it would have enough power to run a high 12 with a good launch, mid 13 with a crap lauch Either way, your mph will give you a good indication on what time is possible anyway Chris

Yeah, speaking to Shaun yesterday, it does seem that his dyno is down a fair bit compared to all the others - not a bad thing as its all comparitive if you get a before and after, so you can see any gains that have been made, should be good once its all done Speaking to a guy at extreme horsepower, his 32 with stock injectors and 2530 turbo made 240rwkw at Tilbrooks at the same boost as what I am running Chris

Yeah, agree re the power differances, it will be interesting to see how they directly compare for 1/4 etc, at the moment revving mine over 6500 is a waste of time, as you can get back into full boost really quickly after a gear change and keep accelerating, but with yours you can keep it in gear a little longer and when you do change gears, your car will be at higher revs anyway and back on boost etc - this is going to be a really interesting comparison between low mount and high mount setups I reckon!! We will both be running similar boost etc, so the results will be directly comparible Its good to see everyone getting good value out of there RB20's, sure they are never going to break any records, but there is plenty of fun to be had with the good 'ol RB20's As you say Roy, it makes it easier for all the other guys working out where to go with theirs too, or wether to fit a RB25/26/30 to suit there needs If I can get another 10-15 kw from 6000rpm on, I'd be more than stoked with that,as thats where its lacking at the moment, other than that I can't fault it keep up the good work guys! Chris

There is no form of electronic boost control on the R32, R33's run a solenoid setup, but the RB20's use solely the wastegate acutator diaphram spring pressure as its form of boost control Easiest thing to do is fit a bleed valve on the pressure line from the compressor cover to the wastegate diaphram, and bleed of the air going to that Chris

Cheers for all the positive response guys, its good to get my car going the way it should be Shows the differance injectors make, the previous tune used to run minimal timing, low boost and lean mixture, approx 12.1 - 12.5:1 under full power New injectors have allowed much more timing and boost, and still have plenty in reserve, Shaun tuned it to around 11.1-11.5:1 AFR's so its much much safer than before Best 1/4 out of the old setup was 14 flat at 104.9mph, it should run a mid 13 with no probs now I would hope. Matt - Saw your car yesterday, still without doubt one of, if not the neatest 33's around, will be good to see what power you get out of the cams Roy, we should get a back to back dyno run when you are over with your car next, at least with your turbo setup there is a heap left in it, mine is pretty well running in its peak efficency range, with the new EBC we will run it at around 1.3bar, maybe a bit more, will have to wait and see. Your turbo would be suited to 1.5+ bar, so if you where game, it would really come alive at that boost, easy 250rwkw for the taking Next mod for me is to optimise the exhaust, I have a few dump/front pipe combo's I want to try, along with a new exhaust manifold, hopefully it will boost up even quicker Chris

Ok cool, mines getting a few things touched up on monday, I will post results Chris

yeah, you can feel the greater spread of power, and I should be able to get the power to keep going with a few more mods, still have a exhaust manifold and bigger dump and perhaps cams to do as well Idle, funnily enough is better than previous and fuel econmy seems to be similar, around 10L per 100kms. Its pops a little at idle, but I am pretty sure thats becasue my spark plugs are running a 0.8mm gap, as with the previous tune it did this also after I changed plugs

Here is the dyno sheet, the light line is the previous tune, I had to overlay a old sheet and trace it on much more useable power than before Chris

Yeah, the pvc pipe worked well, it had a 90degree bend out of the airbox down, then a straight piece through the metal hole, then another 90 facing the front of the car, and a small piece of ducting to the front bumper, it worked really well! Get some mesh from your local hardware store, there is mesh available with about a 5mm square hole, and its reasonably heavy gauge wire. Flyscreen mesh would get sucked in I reckon, the heavier stuff is easily bent and clamped into place and it will keep 90% of the crap out, the rest will get caught by your filter Chris

Looks good Waz, I ran a similar setup on mine with the stock airbox, I used the factory inlet, with a 80mm 90degree PVC wedged into that, then airsawed a 3.5" hole under the airbox and ran a duct to the front bumper Your setup looks similar to the one I did, just mine didn't have the extra hole I removed mine when I fitted my FMIC, as the turbo outlet pipe fouled the box Word of warning though, that pipe will act like a huge vacuum cleaner - on one quick blast on a saturday night I arrived home, poped the bonnet and could hear this really fast ticking noise, I thought it was a bearing or lifter or something, until it continued after I switche the motor off!!! - Popped the lid on my airbox to find one of those big bastard moths in there - sans wings, flapping its sticks on the plastic of the airbox!! There where also a few leaves and smaller moths and bugs in there, so make sure you put some coarse mesh on the end of your hose to stop un-wanted crap being sucked in PLace it to low and it will suck up fine dust etc too Well done though, bet it sounds pretty loud on boost now Chris

My money is on the intercooler pipe - mine poped off once on the outlet of the intercooler, and it wouldn't idle and blew balck smoke (fuel) There are many vacuum lines as you know doubt can see, all can effect idle quality Chris

Just gauging intrest out there to see if anyone has one of the following - A really good conditoin RB20 gearbox, preferably under 60,000kms out of a late model 32 or a really decent RB25 gearbox Cheers, Chris

I wouldn't think it was the pump, as the standard regulator seems to cope fine with the bigger Bosch pumps etc I'd be checking for a vacumm leak, or a intercooler hose not connected - I take it you are running it out of the car? If so this would most likely be the problem, as it sounds like what happens when you run the car with a loose intercooler hose etc Just my thoughts Chris

As above, I'd finish of the exhaust first, but if you want to go for a boost controller, I'd go for something electronic Just last week I was using a bleed valve on my car, we were trying to get a solid 18psi, but due to the bleed valve it would spike to around 21 psi and then fall back to about 14 I wired in a electronic controller on the weekend, and the boost is much more stable and consistant Another good thing is with a ebc, you can lower and raise your boost from your driving seat, rather than having to pop the bonnet and get out the screw driver! Bang for your buck - bleed valves are cheap, but money spent on a decent electronic controller is money well spent I reckon hard to go past the E-Boost, and most of the Jap stuff is very good also I have used a Greddy Profec A in the past, and found them to be quite good Safe boost level? Get it on the dyno to be sure, but 14psi should be fine with the stock turbo Chris

I also noticed this when I put my new injectors in. My back one wasn't even connected, the hose going to it was all split and stuffed, so I replaced it when I put the new injectors in I wonder if thats why my car an so lean.......................... You'd think a decent mechanic would pic something like that up hey. When I swapped the injectors, I found 4 vacuum hoses with leaks in them/or not connected