rondofj

Hey mate I'm not sure because the labels are in Japanese, but they aren't the latest model if that helps. For others that queried, I am not selling in pairs unless there's another buyer for the other pair. cheers

PRICE DROP FOR THIS WEEK ONLY $710! Please do not request me to sell just the fronts or rears on its own as I am selling the whole lot.

Yep its a jb 5558 0.63a/r with 40mm gate off housing @18psi

Yep Mafia had wmi, check out the new manifold thread- scottynm35 said someone just made 430rwkw throught a stock mani on an RB- hes a pretty respected fellow here and theres no reason to doubt his claims.

Damn that setups exactly like how my PT5558 is mounted onto my stock mani, gate off housing n all

430kw through stock mani- is that in an RB25? Sorry I didnt read the earlier posts ;-

Standard mani-mick o has made 340rwkw on e85 stock mani low mounted, mafia did 320rwkw low mount 3076 0.63a/r, theres been others in this power range with stock mani so I would tend to think its not as limiting as the pump fuel n housing

I know my stock mani and 98 fuel is the limiting factor here, but stao was making good power well past 300rwkw on stock mani before he got the Brae mani, what I didnt know was that his is a hub dyno lol, so maybe thats why.. What are your thoughts on wmi Lith, yay or nay, I have read the threads btw, and remember Kurtis was also on the 0.63a/r 5558, but he had a aftermarket mani

I did consider wmi since its a daily, but seeing as its not popular I rang up n spoke to Mark from Unigroup, hes not a fan of it either and said he wouldnt bother with it, said theres a few things that could go wrong if not setup right yada yada

I know. Im just really really hoping to push a smidge past 315-320rwkw like stao has done with his various turbos- I'm after the kick in guts feeling. Whats the highest boost a stock RB25 on 98 has seen safely? I havent seen past 23psi on SAU.

Ooops my bad I was sure it was 392rwkw

Yavuz was the one who told me that the 5558 was Precision's equivalent of the standard 3076R. Am happy with it but need high boost haha

Gates hanging off rear housing btw, plumbed back -no ghey screamer etc. 23psi please lol. JEM stopped at 18, said it was heating up. I have coated the intake pipes over engine in exhaust wrap and removed the coolant bypass thru throttle body (big difference in getting rid of heating and response, was surprised). Now I can easily touch the intake pipe past throttle body and over injectors with my hand after some high boost redlining runs lol.

That guy was Kurtis from central coast, tuned by Jez-black 34 sedan- up on youtube aswl, I think its on this thread too, yes I have the usual support mods but no ffp and stock mani, 40mm gate

Theres only one other guy on SAU that I know who runs the 5558 on a 34 aswl- he made 392rwkw on e85 high mounted and with ffp.

Sorry its on a 34GTT RB25 neo

I run a 5558 0.63a/r low mounted stock position on 98, 286rwkw at 16psi- was tuned on 18psi, wana take it up to as high as possible -is 23psi do-able safely and how much rwkw should I expect? No e85 -its a daily.

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took out Z32 afm, soldered all 4 joints and put it back together no difference - initial startup and first 5-10 mins of driving theres NO power from 1000-1800rpms for 2-3 seconds then it jerks a bit then power comes back lol. Fuel filter clogged? It doesnt happen when engines warm.

I have 630cc and was wanting to go E85 aswl-precision 5558 turbo, aiming for 340-350rwkw, currently 286rwkw, is 630cc do-able, pushing a bit?

I dont know about the plug gap, JEM had fitted new sparkies and set it at 0.8mm and it ran fine for 4 months till now, I'm thinking it could be the bloody afm, maybe a solder joint or something, its weird, upon first startup and driving for the initial 5-10 mins theres just NO power between 1000-2000rpms then its normal after that rpm band. Driving a bit over 10mins after its warmed up, some/not all power comes back, so could it be the thermostat or temp sensor?

I've been getting the same problem recently (R34GTT) - inconsistent misfire and farting only under WOT at 16-18psi and close to redline, a lot of the time it doesnt happen but 20-30% of the time it does. Took out and inspected my Yellow Jackets (less than 2yrs old) and copper spark plugs NGK BCP7RES gapped at 0.8mm (done only like 2000kms) - the plugs look new - no soot or signs of running rich -just the thin lower thread strip is black, coilpacks look new, no hairline cracks etc,. No visible oil/fuel in cylinders/ spark plugs. Multimeter tests consistent resistance throughout coilpacks, and idle tests by removing coilpack connections one by one changes the engine note throughout so all coilpacks seem to be good here. But obviously under WOT it starts misfiring n farting. I didnt take out n inspect my 4th coilpack/spark plug as its under the J pipe and I couldnt be farked removing all that crap. But pretty sure its the same as others / good cond. Did take out connector under idle and it changed engine note so it seems ok. Check engine light came on after coilpack inspection - paperclip test/clear codes and reset ecu (remove battery terminals n drain charge) didn't remove it - only threw out one error code which was the boost sensor. How do I get rid of this light? The last couple days after removing coilpacks/plugs I get no power n torque from 1000-2000rpms but after that its normal and hammers hard under boost to redline bar the ocassional misfire/brickwall. Esp on a hill from stop to go I get inconsistent no power till 2000rpms. Is this a timing issue?? Wasnt happening before. Checked all connections of coilpacks/plugs all firm n good. Please help. cheers

Can do cheaper without tyres and extra springs, pm me if interested, but please no lowballers.