BOBBYr34

The par was the best option as ppg have had problems wth the 6 speed, hollinger i could of used with sequential changer would had to change front and rear diff and change the transfer case and the tail shaft for the front and again all three boxes can break. Par i have had in the past and did have some issues with it, they have now fixed the problem and this box i bought is full dog engagement ( gonna have fun driving it lol ) I will be adding the ignition cut for quick gear changing.

Hi matt, We did look into the V cam however the way the motor will be built with the correct cam timing and static compression this will work the same way. The car will be driven everyday, i will be drag racing it and track racing it just to show that you can build a car to do all the things. As you might know i do own a Z-tune and driving that, has good response however this build is going to be alot more impressive If you have other question more then happy to share my build with eveyone. Bobby

par dog box 6 speed

Here are some spec's of the motor. Started the build from a N1 crate motor bought from Just Jap. Motor was completely stripped down. John Skola spec head porting Tomei 260 procams 10.25 lift Tomei Type c valve springs Standard valves side oil drain Tomei cam gears Greddy cam caps Gates timing belt Z-tune Stroker crank 2.8L Crower Rods Custom made Pistons from JE Pistons Static comp 10.1:1 ( I need to reconfirm this) Dry sump peterson's 4 stage pump Custom Sump Os Giken triple plate clutch PAR 6 speed full dogbox Acpt carbon fibre tailshaft Nismo intake plenum 12 Nismo 660 injectors (dual rail) ARC cooler Turbo is a turbonetics T70 with a T76 wheel inside it Motec M800 Motec E888 Motec Expander Exhaust Manifold john skola custom

Air = 79% Nitrogen gas and 21% oxygen gas therefore air is a gas I think what you are saying is a mixture of air with other impurites like unburnt hydrocarbons then it would not follow the laws of air as the viscosity will be inverted. What we have in the manifold is air expansion or you can also call it gas expansion caused by combustion of hydrocarbons stoichiometric 14.7:1 = 14.7 Kg of air (nitrogen,Oxygen) need to burn 1kg of Fuel or 1L of air roughly 9500 L of air. Look there is to much detail id have to list i will try and keep it simple. F1, indy and rally cars are buit with extreme engineering that we will never find out as its all a big secret. John knows all the secrets and willing to share it with anyone, this is why what i am doing is not normal, makes my build unusal and a higher chance of failure to a normal joe blow. what motorsport does we are not told. John has worked with colin bonds cars, peter brocks race cars, he did work on the ford sierra turbo, built a race car for john masterton (masterton homes) he bought it of them and he owens it himself. Below reply to your post Getting back to the waste gate. A normal turbo setup people do like single turbo with wastegate needs as an example 99% of the gas flow to turn the turbo until desired boost level is reached then vent it through the waste gate. With the setup john is doing as an example 30% gas flow to drive the turbo the rest waste so this will mean quick spool limited turbo lag. This is why he is taking wasted gas from each runner and there is no manifold out on the market that works like this unless you get your hands on. "My main beef with the collector is where the 3 gate ports merge together. You talk of this as "to achieve the perfect merge and at the same time extract equal quantity of waste gases without causing extensive disruption to the flow." But if you think about the directions of the gas flow two of the extraction paths have to flow around 2 x 90 degree bends and while the other just has to travel a straight path. What's worse to this and in my opinion a huge design flaw is where these 3 gas paths merge... 2 are opposing each (blowing at each other) while the third is trying to push through the middle. This will cause major disruption of flow to all 3 paths and also a uneven balance. If you want a example of a better design look at a standard rb25 low mount cast manifold. It also has two opposing gas flows but internally it has a divider to direct the gases in the same direction before the merge to not cause issues." Gas flow leaving through ports cut out, the calculated volume of three holes is the size of the cavity you can see that on the youtube vid. Also another point of thought is not all three cylinders will fire at once therefore the waste gate cavity will flow one at a time on each side not all three at once. What you have said about the merge again not all cylinder fire at once the pulse do not interfere the aim is to fire as close as you can to the entry of the turbine housing. I will have to look for a rb25 low mount turbo and i will show it to john. I do want to say John had alot of problems in desiging the manifold, as the r34 gtr has limited space for the manifold. The weight of the manifold i will weight it, trust me its light much lighter then a steam pipe manifold.

Simon, Its good that we all have this discussion as its all a learning curve for eveyone and i like how you have analyzed the merge collector. Before i reply to your post i will ask some very simple questions so we are both at the same level. You have quoted a major topic WASTE GATE. And yes i do remember problems with boost creep with 6boost manifolds. Now we have to get real technical. 1) what happens to air when you heat it - what happens to the density of air when heated? and what happens to the viscosity of air when heated ?

Thank you for your comments

I had a greddy manifold that i showed him, and the HKS manifold i borrowed from a friend. Trust me i have alot of parts left over

Yes the japs did, they built the z-tune, now you can see im trying to build my own z-tune and the jap's did a great job with the Z-tune lets see what John can do for me.

Matter a fact i had shown john, Karls 6 boost manifold i told him the price he sells it for and he said thats the best manifold he has seen in a long time so the 6 boost was thumbs up full race john only got to see it on the net, his comment was runners where to big and i think he said number 1 and i think 3 runners were longer then the rest. I took so many manifolds to him hks, greddy he picked faults everywhere, so to top it off 6 boost was best of all, however john wanted to make his own and this is what he has made. I am not out to prove anyone wrong as everything works when you mod it but if you mod it correctly you will have something better. From this if it works we can all benefit from it. I can detail all the motor spec's and all the little things that are done to the motor.

Yes R&D is expensive however by the time i started investigating and get it right would cost a mint, this is why i have John Skola as he has the answers for everything he is building. I remember when i dropped off the N1 motor to his workshop and when he stripped it down and saw the cylinder head design and laughed, he said this is a very old head design going back to 1978. I was shocked when he said that. He did say it will need alot of work to make it work right and that was said 4 years ago. Im amount 2 month away from finishing this build and cant wait to post the results.

Since you seem to have all the answers please tell me what manifold you think is worth using and what testing you have done?

I guess you guys dont know the meaning of R&D development, have a read into true morotsport not your joe blow workshops, how much it costs when it comes to development work and the hours spent in perfecting a job. Find me one person out there that has made a manifold in this manner!!!! Not even the jap's come near it. I know i have alot on my shoulders in proving all this is going to work, i know it will as alot of calculation has gone into the build. Soon ill have some more pics of the finished Dump pipe and the earls fitting for the surge tank and dry sump tank

When i bought the brembo kit, it was not listed as cayenne brakes it was listed for r34 Gtr, I had no issues in installing the kit myself and im no mechanic so im not sure what kit you have bought. If you need some close up details of the caliper i can take some close up pics. The manifold cost is over $10,000 just the material to construct cost me about $3500 as its all 321 stainless purchased from USA.

Well even if you copy 50% it will be better then anything on the market. if you need some more detailed pic do let me know.

Will pay good money for it. Text me on 0414959914

Make some offers please

I completely understand , I have known John for like 16 years now and all this time i never asked him to do work for me as i always got work done for others. John has said this is his last project involved with car's. I am the lucky guy to have something no one has ever done, however I am willing to share all the secrets as i dont see the point of hiding anything. So let everyone know what ever info people need i am more then happy to let them know in full detial to what i know and what i understand.

His Name is JOHN SKOLA no man like him his the wizard brains behind many motorsport stories, however no one really knows him as he keeps to himself. The pressure used was not alot i know i have had one blow up lucky i had it covered up. Once the pipe is finished ill post the final product, it is going to look amazing and at the same time delivery its purpose.

Got some pics and vid of the dump pipe been blown up using hydraulic fluid.

Yeah mate all day long

Bump

The firing order for a RB26 is 153624, therefore the first 3 pipes are correct for one side of the divider hence the last 3 pipe are correct for other side of the divider. If you think the placement should be different please let me know. Also I have not mentioned, the manifold collector is made from billet 321 stainless and all manifold pipes are 321 stainless.

Here are some more pic of the manifold. Its coming along well just needs some final welds, 4 years of development its looking good. Now the next stage making the dump pipe out of two flat sheet of stainless welded on its edge, and then blow it up using hydraulic fluid. Interesting way of making it to achieve the correct tamper coming out of the turbo housing and the correct dump angle, all in one piece of pipe.