ClutchBurndout-:(

i keep wondering this, but as i said, it runs fine untill warm, unless theres a second stage to car temperature that changes pressure as such? i know its an easy fix, but ill have to drill into piping, it scares a brother haha

ok thanks mate

haha, thanks mate, ill suss it out tonight, ill take a look inside the afm itself where the solders are, and report back, as for the actual wires, ill try fix them up a bit, (theyve been cut and connected again with solders (dont know why)) cheers

ok well that sorta rules out the afm would my setup with the wastegate hose just before the bov be causing this?

what if the wires are just a bit iffy? will it work sorta? im kinda hoping its my afm...

update, after some extensive research a lot of people are suggesting afm wireing for similar problems, is there actualy wireing inside the afm? or only on the outside (plug to ecu)

hey guys, can i use a vl commodore rb30 afm on my rb25det ? are they interchangeable?

hey guys, trying to troubleshoot something thats going wrong with my car. Is anyone able to lend me a ignition module and air flow meter for an rb25det series 1? or if you have them for sale can i see if they are the problem, and if so, ill buy them off you. im located in Berwick (SE suburbs) cheers!

ok will look into the spray but you got me thinking about the wireing to the afm... the wireing to the plug which connects to the afm is dodgy (last owner), the wires are all soldered properly together, and while i was fitting the piping i was in a fixit mood and decided to wrap the individual wires with insulation tape so they dont touch eachother or watever, who would of known it mightve made it worse... so i guess ill have to look into fixing them up properly (even though they are properly soldered etc)

ahh ok, well i checked it and the plugs fine, not sure about the afm itself though, if it was buggered wouldnt the car run alot worse? i dont know anyone on here sorry, so the best i can do is try get as much help as possible from people with knowledge

black smoke = burning fuel, try resetting the ecu?

i forgot to mention, at the same time i changed the spark plugs, i thought it was odd that the previous owner had put in 3 iridium and 3 normal spark plugs, i replaced them all with new standard plugs, heat range 6 gapped at .8mm

where is the maf? is that the same thing as the afm? does that ignition unit at the back of the center vally cover need to be earthed? it was only bolted to it, no earthing wires anywhere... edit: i found out the afm is the same as the maf...

ive changed my intercooler piping, and yes ive made sure its all tight with no leaks etc, the car boosts fine, but when its warm it tends to slowly die, as if there is a fuel issue, but i didnt touch anything with the fuel system, the car jerks a little and continues so for a little bit then just stalls while moving. it can run fine and feels normal, but after a bit of driving it will start to do this, as if the ecu is cracking the shits and stops fuel or something. the only thing different to the last intercooler piping setup is that the actuator hose that used to come from the cooler piping just before the throttle piping and goes to the manual boost controller, is now Teed into the hose that goes from the TB to the stock BOV because the new piping dosent have anywhere for the hose to connect to. its an r33 GTST S1. any ideas? do i need to drill a hole into the new piping? PS. also, i dont know if this would have any affect but i took the valley cover off and left the unit thingo at the back that usualy bolts to the valley cover just dangling next to the firewall.

is that the black arm pipe that then goes down to the intercooler?

i was thinking doing it from the stock boost guage line, i have teed it into the BOV line before the bov near the plenum, is this ok? i have been getting issues where the car starts to cut out while driving ever since i installed the new piping, could this method be causing it to die?

can u confirm this?

as the title says, on my old piping kit i had a line comeing out of the intercooler piping just before the crossover pipe that went to the boost controller then to the wastegate, but the jjr kit dosent have anywhere at all on the piping to put a line. where do i put the ling to the boost controller/wastegate actuator? where do i T it into? please dont say i have to drill into the piping and put a line in... cheers

oh, i didnt know that it will creep no matter what with the mods... i have 3 inch bellmouth, high flow cat, 3.5 inch cat back normal airbox with k&n filter fmic stock ecu (i think, i might have to make sure) i always thought it was something wrong because, theres a limiter, weather it be the actuator, or the boost controller, that it limits the pressure by releasing the flap, so i just dont understand how it can over pressurize

hey guys, im read up a bit on people removing the mesh on their afm, to make it less restrictive, what dangeres are there from doing this? i cant seem to find any apart from when handling it outside of the car, as you might drop something in it etc has anyone done this? should i rip out the mesh? ta

hmmm, yea im gonna do the pipe trick lol is it hard to get the induction pipe off? i look into my bay and i cant even get to the ring clamp thats on the turbo...

wouldnt hurt! the longer u soak it the better though, ive heard of people soaking old commodore door hinges for a week so the pins come out, so if you soak it like you said and still no go, keep soaking

would this suck closed to do you think? http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=259&page=1

the most common spot is just before the start of the crossover pipe because you cant tap into the crossover pipe and its most accurate because thats whats actually going into the manifold, straight after the turbo would give a different reading to whats actually in the manifold

apexi does that