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So his mechanic said the following: For f**k sakes Kelvin, f*****g listen to me, it has NOTHING to do with the pump or restrictors! How many f*****g RB engines have I built? F*****g told you id explain it for the 10th time! Go blow up your engine then!!! All that from asking what pump was in it. Is it so hard to tell someone what parts are in your engine or what was done during the build...

Thanks guys, just got him to go nag his mechanic for info, im thinking he's forgot the restrictors. Head is running custom 274 HKS cams, solid lifters, upgraded springs etc and im pretty sure the VCT / VVT is still being used

Hey guys. I have a mate who's had an RB25/30 made for his R34 skyline a few months ago and the head keeps flooding with oil and catch can is always full. Any ideas what the problem and possibly solution might be? His mechanic (the builder) wants to fabricate and install an air oil separator... The build doesn't have any form of assisted oil return from the head such as a cylinder head oil return kit from head to sump. I have no idea if the mechanic re did the oil restrictors to help prevent flooding and we have no idea what brands etc are in the engine. The invoice barely detailed anything at all. Same mechanic snapped 2 sets of cams and has had to fix it all twice at his expense due to forgetting but not admitting a spacer or something, can't remember. Anywho, thought on the dilema? much appreciated guys =) Cheers

into a 34

brother has a built VX commodore that's hardly been used, he's sick of and wanting to sell to me cheap, I've always wanted to do the conversion...

Hey guys, might be a silly question but I'm looking at options for my next project build. Just wondering how hard it is to get an R34 2door shell, straight or with repairable damage and what I'd be expecting to pay for one, the more complete the better, engine and box not needed. Or should I just look at buying a cheap 34 and selling the engine, box and whatever else i don't need?

Alright, cheers for the help guys, appreciate it =) I'll try a few things and see if I can sort out or at least help the problem. Oh and their full length Injector Dynamics 1000cc Full Length

so it sounds like my problem is normal then... but is it normal for the rail and intake to get hot enough to be really uncomfortable to hold your hand on? like a kettle type hot...

it's Return from rail > Return to tank > Lift pump in > Main pump feed. the fuel rail is a custom made 1inch square solid block of aluminium that's been drilled through the same diameter as the hose fittings threads. pic below. My turbo doesn't kick in till 4,000 RPM so I barely use that around the street. The cooler sounds like a viable idea. As for the boot it's standard, only it's been stripped out, surge tank is on the floor on the right side.

Hi guys, my fuel system keeps getting hot and I can't figure it out. Car & Fuel system details: *Highly modified RB25 with a Wolf 3D V4 ECU *The fuel system is a Walbro in tank pump with pick up > 10L surge tank > x2 Bosch 044 pumps > twin entry fuel rail > ID 1000cc injectors > return line back to surge tank. Problems: *The two Bosh pumps slowly get noisier the further I drive, their not running dry as I keep checking the surge tank and it's always full, after an hour drive you can hear the wine outside the car. Notes: *The pumps, surge tank, fuel rail and intake plenum are all hot to touch. *None of the fuel system is near the exhaust or heat source. *Pumps are quiet on start up and for the first 20mins of driving before slowly getting louder. *No blockages in pipes, brand new fuel filters and fuel reg, fuel pressure is stable, constant and accurate. *I had the car re tuned from avgas to pump fuel (BP Ultimate) 2 months ago in Tas and have since moved to QLD and know that I need to get the tune touched up for the temperatures and humidity levels etc up here. Any ideas or suggestions for my problem? pumps on their way out, AFR needs adjusting, or it's just in the tune etc? Thanks for any help and suggestions guys =) Scott

Hey guys, I'm trying to track down a Do-Luck wing for a mates R34 that already has the Do-Luck kit, doesn't matter if it's the one that sits down low or on the stands, just trying to find one. Any help or info would be great, cheers =)

Thanks for the PM's guys, gotten hold of one =)

wouldn't happen to have an R33 series 1 drivers door wiring loom??

hey, wouldn't happen to have the wiring loom for the drivers door??

Hey guys, in need of a Drivers Door Wiring Loom for a Series 1 R33 asap

not sure about a 34 tank but a 33's pump isn't too deep inside the tank, if their roughly the same follow the wires that go down into the tank, the pump should be toward the rear seat side of the tank on a bracket about half an arms length inside the tank, it's mounted to a slip on bracket so it all just lifts up off the bracket and slides back in =)