HEL-RZA

Im after any after market turbo that will bolt straight on to the RB20DET xhaust manifold (T3 flange i think). New or used Will consider rebuilt turboz. Cheers.

thats the same as the VL turbo oil filter aint it??

I use the VL turbo oil filter. its bigger that the regular filter which means it would have a better flow than the factory. not much but every little bit helps

if you can find it get a POPE car battery. they are hand made and last forever. my dad put one in his sigma when he first bought it and it lasted longer than the car. now its in his commodore and its still going. i just recently put one in my R32 and had no problems. just my 2c.

i think rebuilding the stockys would be cheaper as they would go straight in again. buying new turbos would mean spending more to modify xhaust and piping to fit the GT2530 turbos. also possibly reprogramming the ecu.

im going to configure the piping in this way as well. im not sure about the piping size but ive heard that to minimise the lag the piping should be the same size as the IC inlet and outlet. can any one conferm this?? :confused:

i was considering changeing the timing belt aswell as all three fanbelts on my R32 GTST but after reading this fourm ive decided to let the pros do it. ive been quoted about $560.00 from mark at hills motorsport. to change the timing belt fanbelts water pump. does this sound reasonable to youz??

cool thanx phellas..........

Im in a bit of a delema. i recently was given a car from my work (a sh#tty magna wagon) to use as i please. so im not sure what i should do with my line. after much debateing between my parents,family and friends ive come up with a few possibilities: 1. sell my line, use sh*tty work car to get around in save up and buy a house. (parents) 2. sell my line save up and when i turn 25 buy a R32 GTR or R33 GTR. (me) 3. sell my line buy a honda CBR (motor bike) for weekends and use ****ty work car the rest of the time. (cuz) 4. keep my line for a weekend car and boost it up like crazy. (also me) 5. a combination of choices 1 and 3. (bro) if any one has any other suggestions id like to hear them.. :confused:

ALL I Can say is: SUCKED IN!!!!!! :shake: :shake: :shake: :shake: Its a bout time those bloody cops do something good instead of bullsh*t defects and petty fines. although i get mixed feelings when i remember that the money from all the defects and fines helped to fund that bust. At least it was for a good cause.

plumb back

Jimbo I got a turbosmart plumb back on my r32 and can say they work pretty good. the advantage adout this particular BOV is that i can make it plumb back then a miniute with a socket set can make it vent 2 atmos. in plumb back the sound isnt much louder than std. but when V2A it lets go with a huge PPPSSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!! a bit like the sound when you let the air out of a tyre. It works well in both ways. heres a pic of the plumb back and the supersonic turbo smart BOV. Notice they are exactly the same BOV but the super sonic has a trumpet sort of Xhaust housing wheres the plumb back has a out let pipe!!!

Come on people any one got any suggestions?????

Ive listened to where its coming from and its not on the exhaust side. its more of a tick ...tick ...tick... than a hiss....hiss...hiss.....it seems to be just under where the throttle body is and it dosent stop once the engine has warmed up. it cant be the bigend bearings could it? or could it be the piston hitting the sparkplug??? its got me really worried.. I always imagine the worst when it comes to unknown sounds from the engine.

My R32 GTST has started making a new sound. before there was a slight tapping sound that was coming from under the rocker cover. Now theres a completely different tapping sound thats twice as loud towards the back of the motor but sounds like its not in the rocker cover. also the tapping sound increases with the rpm. im guessing it may be a fouled up injector. can injectors do this?? it has never happened before. what else could it be? i hope its not any engine berings. does any one know what it sounds like when the berings go in a RB20DET???:eek: :eek: :eek:

The term hot or cold spark plugs has got absolutly nothing to do with temperature and has got every thing to do with the design of the ignition system. basicaly the ignition is made up of a coil a resistor and a switching device (in skylines the ECU contorls ingnition). In some cars the resistor is built in to the ingnition. it may be in the leads, distributor or ecu. so the spark plug has no resistance and is termed hot. but in other cars (especialy older ones) there is no built in resistor so it is incorperated into the sparkplug and is termed cold. that is why i dont understand when people say that they can reduce pinging by changing to a "colder" plug. do these people know what they are doing?:confused: Me thinks not.

no ist not BS its true.

Troppo what insurence company is ur wife with? JIMBO found that loop hole in suncorp yet? Be interested in what it is and how to take advantage of it. on second thought we shouldnt take advantage of the struggling insurence companies after all they have our best interests at heart? :lol:

try Brasso i used it in metal work at school, my candle stick holder came up like a mirror. mabey it will work for mufflers too??

my line had the same problem then one day the battery died so i bougt a new one. now it ony takes about a second and it starts. mabey your battery isnt supplying enough current to the starter so the engine isnt being cranked at the optimum speed thus taking longer to start. just a thery based on my experience hope it helps.

Cheers RPM

Are there any insurence companies that do third party fire and theft. If so who are they and whats their number? cant afford comprehensive just yet . check this out last year quoted $6100 from just cars with 0% NCB opted for third party property instead. now a year later with 20% NCB was quoted $6600!!! WTF???

RPM i have the turbo smart plumb back BOV and it still has the stalling problem. i read some of the other posts in the forums and their seems to be a couple of theries and a few sollutions. one way i tryed was to adjust the idle. it seems to work but now she idles @ about 900rpm. is this too high for idle? can this cause any damage to motor? fuel economy dosent seem to be affected too much can still get around 400 k's a tank. Also before i adjusted the idle it seemed to be very lumpy. having a range of about 500 - 750rpm. Is this common in early model lines? (i have a R32 GTST) i have heard that this can be caused by a damaged or faulty AFM.

I found this at a jap auction web page. the bidding starts at $39,000 any takers?

steve The fan on the condenser (assuming you mean the one in the engine bay) is not for the AC its a thermal fan that is trigged when the engine reaches or excedes a certain temp.