KJS

my mechanic told me that I need to replace my catalytic converter to hi flow (stock boost) I wonder which of these item is suitable for a sedan R33..... in Brisbane

Ohh finally one reply, thanks iseekool so far now I have bought 2x Penrite SIN ATF 4L, and then 1x Penrite Dexron III ATF 4L because there weren't replies, so I just bought the 2x 4L SIN ATF for putting into the transmission if the mechanic finds it not enough, he will have another 4L of Penrite Dexron III ATF to add a little into (Dexron III is cheaper than SIN) I checked the specification for the Penrite SIN ATF, it is compatible with Nissan Matic C, D, J and also JASO, so I assume it would be okay because it is much cheaper than Transmax Z and I also bought a Nulon Transmission Treatment so now you reckon I shouldn't ask the mechanic to add the Nulon Auto Transmission Treatment? the major service is tomorrow, so I hope someone could reply me today -_-" hahaha and I didn't buy any flushing agent.....the treatment I am not sure whether it is equivalent to a conditioner. and yes, it's R33 4 speed auto I guess (since mine is not rare) cheers

I checked the different oils between Castrol, Mobil1 and Penrite seems like the Castrol Matic J only matches with Castrol Tranmax Z, Mobil ATF 3309 and Penrite SIN ATF 004 the closest would be Castrol Tranmax Z and Penrite ATF 004 the Penrite website states that i would need 8.3L can someone confirm about this?

How much oil do I need for the automatic transmission service? for R33 I will need Castrol Matic 'J but they don't sell this in Australia unless you get from Nissan so instead I will need Castrol Trans Z which would be compatible however, one Castrol Trans Z will only have 4L and I don't know whether I need one or two, or possibly three... the transmission oil is getting really bad and need to be changed asap so could anyone who had done a transmission service lately be able to tell me how much I need? also what should I use for the flush and conditioner? brand with good quality/price ratio if you know the diff oil capacity please let me know as well. next would be, does the HICAS actually get influenced by another hidden oil reservoir? so far my engine bay has 2 reservoir which could be seen, one is the power steering, and the other is brake but I couldn't find the 3rd one, and these two are not low. My HICAS light is on. so if you know another 3rd oil reservoir which I should check please post a photo and circle (for R33 Auto Series 1 1993) thanks and appreciate any reply

I have the exact leak at the same place from the exact screw (the last one) so this is due to the rocker cover gasket? how much would it cost to fix this? cheers

if your marriage need an '93 R33 Sedan White please let me know I would come (my car is stock just slightly lower and 18' rim, nothing special in exterior but think just another for you to choose) and congrats!

hi do you still have it?

could you post the picture in a bigger size (including the surrounding) so I could understand which side is the top and bottom. thanks

Hi guys, I always have my HICAS light on after ignition I can't understand why it can come on suddenly but most the time it doesn't the only thing I notice is there are certain criteria it will come out: if I just turned off the ignition, let's say when I reached my friend's place, and after she is out from her house, I ignite again then the light will be on it's like having a short interval of engine off and then when it is on, the light is on another is when my car is not on a flat surface let's say I am on a slope, sometimes it just comes out when I ignite main thing is, it comes on when I start my car. Usually it doesn't happen, but it is unpredictable and makes it hard to drive I checked the power steering fluid, it is fine. the steering is not as smooth as when I first bought the car tho (even without HICAS light on) the fluid is filled. so what other things I should check? like any possible cause?

my temperature gauge, it can get to half way after the car is driving for maybe 5 minutes. usually it takes very long to get up assume the middle of it is 50%, usually only after it reaches 10-15% then only you start to feel the car can be driven smoothly. for the first start of the day, the temperature gauge will not move at all after the car is ignited, even after waiting for 3 minutes....unless you start driving it. if you start driving it slowly without waiting, it will takes like 2 minutes to reach the 10-15% spot and then only can feel the car is driven smoothly while you are waiting, sometimes the car will vibrate for a bit (not really obvious)...... is there anyway to check whether the thermostat is faulty? I mean simplest way

Hi Jonny....I don't drive hard. ........(you recognise the wrong person, I am in Brisbane~)

My car was running 14L/100kms few weeks back 2-3 weeks ago it had a vacuum leak, the small hose got split end and created a sound (it is the small hose connected to the top of the engine) didn't know since when it happened but I only noticed it when i was planning to get the tank filled up so I cut the hose end and connect back, no leak in boost and no more sound went to fill up the tank and realised this tank was bad, 20L/100kms. ohh well I thought it's because of the leak, that's why it was running rich. so after that, the new tank of fuel, also same type of fuel........ only manage to get 19L/100kms so I become miserable because with leak it gets 20L/100kms is reasonable......but without leak also same consumption? question is: do I need to reset the ECU after the leak is fixed? or it is not relevant? car is R33 automatic gear and rarely boost (max boost is 5psi only) it was 13-14L/100kms........why now 19-20L/100kms? did I miss anything? or there are other side effects after the leak

Hi guys, thanks for the replies. Yes initially there was a very loud/obvious leak sound, I could hear it when I am inside the car and finally I found the split end of the hose! I cut it and then connected back again. Before I notice this split end, I posted the picture because it was in the night and too dark to identify the origin of the sound so I could only suspect the yellow connection whether it is loose or supposed to be like that. Since you guys said that it is supposed to be like that, i guess it should be fine. (actually I still hear a sound tho....not the fan sound) besides engine sound, fan sound, and a sound from the pod filter, I still hear another sound. Can someone please confirm the Aerostart can be sprayed on any hose when the car is running? isn't it flammable? is there any part I shouldn't spray? I will do it. Last tank of fuel was 19L/100kms because of this leak.

What do you guys think? I don't know enough about car....but it looks loose to me. Also when the engine is running, there is a leak sound from the left side of the engine area.

I am facing a similar situation Mine is similar car, R33 Sedan RB25DET......automatic tho I get 14L/100kms driving without boost...... the factory specification is 11L/100kms I find these two sites useful, want to share with you http://www.aa1car.com/library/2002/us30232.htm http://autospeed.com/cms/A_2597/article.html check ECU codes check oxygen sensor do a minor service, like change engine oil and oil filter clean AFM with contact cleaner leaving without residue check tire pressure* change fuel filter check for vacuum, boost leak (get a plastic container from BigW 80mm diameter and then put tire valve and plug it in to AFM, pump pressure, hear sound) if you have money, get injectors cleaned and check/changed spark plugs......but is costly, so try a bottle of Nulon Fuel System Clean gearbox oil...i heard that it will affect fuel consumption as well...correct me if wrong. coolant temperature sensor, thermostat .....also possible. update us if there is improvement cheers

Hi traum, the speedo which I got is for an automatic car tho, I am just afraid it might not be suitable for manual but I am not sure in this matter. to clarify whether you are holding a S1 or S2 dash cluster, difference is S2 will have a vacuum meter inside the rpm meter. your speedo is reading half of what it should? I got this info from one of the forum poster here, credit "gumflapper" "On the back of the speedometer circuit board, there are a number of solder points in a row labelled "Adj". There are 10 solder points labelled 0 to 9. The solder points, when not "jumped" are seperated by a small gap. To calibrate the circuit to read a maximum speed of 300 km/h, the points labelled 3, 4, 5, 7 & 8 need to be "jumped" by applying solder to bridge the gap for these solder points." here is a few things might be able to help you 1) get the cluster, unscrew the 4 screws behind the dash cluster which are surrounding the white round thing next to a "black mid-finger" 2) go back to the front, gently remove the speedo by pulling out...gently. 3) check behind there is a list of number under ADJ 1~9 PESL, check which one is soldered and could you post here again and let me know whether your dash cluster is for S1 or S2, auto or manual, and which point is soldered. my S1 speedo for an automatic works, only point 6 and PESL are soldered. if you can probe the speedo, the frequency might be the wrecker [ALL AUTOMTIVE IN SEVENTEEN MILES ROCKS] doesn't want to exchange his faulty product, he accused us because we had touched it and tried to altered it. he said he can sell one for 50 just the speedo and he will take this dash cluster back.

Hi Guys, I need some help here before I tell my story. I had a dash cluster which was faulty with the odometer and trip meter. When it was at 89999kms and 350kms, it stopped running. This cluster is for an R33 Automatic S1 car. Fair enough, I went to buy a used dash cluster, from a wrecker. That guy told me that IT IS TESTED AND IT IS WORKING BUT THEY WILL NOT WARRANTY IT. This dash cluster is for an R33 Automatic S2 car. so I swapped the dash cluster, took out the Airbag light bulb and everything is working well but........now I have a problem: The speedo is reading way out. It is reading approximately more than 2x speed of what I am actually driving. I know this from the GPS reading. Therefore let's say I am driving 95km/h, it shows that the needle is out of 180km/h...to about maybe 220km/h and the car starts to vibrate (like stopping me to go more) but the everything is working when I called up the wrecker.... he asked me to go find an electrician and doesn't want to exchange the speedo for me. ======================================= R33 S1 = only 6, PESL are joined...[the solder point doesn't look genuine] R33 S2 = 4, 5, PESL are joined... [the solder points seem genuine, not done by anyone] both of them with 180km/h face. now I want to use the S2 speedo.......what should I do? if anyone of you know an auto electrician in Brisbane please let me know the address and number (pm will do) i called up one...he said he doesn't do imported car "too troublesome" wtf I did search, so far no one has solved this.

I have exactly the same problem....... the ODO meter stop when reaching 89999kms yes, four 9 and doesn't go past the 90000kms! and the trip meter also stopped........ I opened it up and can see nothing wrong went to wrecker to buy a used one. realise that the one I had......doesn't have the P, R, N, D, 1, 2......at the centre...... so I am guessing it is for a manual car and now maybe I could understand why the O/D light doesn't turn on so what's the reason behind the not running odometer? i heard that when your car is moving, you shouldn't reset the trip meter..........but I need confirmation about that lol and also I think it stopped before I reset -_-"

Automatic Transmission = Castrol Transmax Z can we use this as posted in the other thread in gearbox forum? sorry I didn't notice the thread before that any other brand? or this is the only one recommended? does gearbox oil have influence in fuel consumption? lol

what oil can I use? I heard that it is different to manual gearbox oil... I email nissan keema and they didn't reply me -_-" if when you are driving and your hand is on the gear......and could feel a bit of vibration (very very slight) does that mean that it is serius time to change the oil? I am just afraid that the odo reading is not genuine. the timing belt is still alright tho... but should I change the gearbox oil now or leave till major service (another 10000kms -_-)?

I was quoted rocker cover gasket 2 hours 170 + cost of gasket when I was at your place.......-_-" can't you make mine same as the above pricing?

you have three situations?? that is so scary, sounds like getting stalked by cops. and makes me feel afraid to step on accelarator. that day I went passed the speed camera near Taragindi exit along Pacific Motorway.....and as I was leaving the camera near the curve (few more meters away would be a spot you can't even see the camera) unfortunately it flashed.......I would say double flashed. but that time I was below 100 tho.......probably near to 90......now I am thinking whether it was flashing the taxi behind me or my car. kinda worry.

Hi everyone! I just used the method which I was told here and tested for leak. What I did was, using a round container bought from BigW (the bottom is approximately 80mm diameter) and a tubeless tire valve from Repco. Then combined these two things and found a petrol station (aka servo), with manual pump and tested it out. My friend took off the AFM, and then we put in this container, pump it up. There is a sound......an air leak sound, which is around the place near the turbo. According to my friend that place are mostly metal piping.......so we couldn't do anything. We could hear the sound, and it is from the area where it is near oxygen sensor, turbo.....that area there....but we don't know excatly where the sound is from or could be from. Then after I start the car, we could hear another two sounds. One is from the stock BOV. The other is from the intake manifold, which is on top of the engine. These two sounds weren't heard when I was using the pump, but was only heard when we start the engine. So here comes: my friend said the sound from the turbo or area near the turbo...he doesn't think it will affect the fuel consumption tho and that is what we heard from the result of the leak test. so what does that mean? I wonder......anything serious? what could be the reason with everything stock and getting 14.68L/100kms instead of 11.24L/100kms? I really rarely hit the boost.........usually drive below 2.5k rpms and yet still..... if I would to send to a mechanic (AMEC at Cooparoo), what should I tell him?

OMG I forgot to say, it is sedan.....

My car is R33 S1, but then I need a rear garnish to replace the crack one. I found an S2 garnish...but I wonder whether it is the same size as S1 or would it fit? Personally I like the middle part between the two rear lights being flat smooth though.....instead of plastic black. Or if it doesn't fit, has anyone try painting the black rear garnish with the same colour as your car? Or do you think it is possible to get a sheet of stainless steel or whatever flat metal thing to cover that and spray it with paint? any good idea? else......I will just get a used S1 garnish...and consider putting it back.