Danox

Hello -- I have a R34 GTR in the USA that was imported by Motorex back in 2002 and I'm happy to be one of the owners of a car here that received it's bond release. It's very well kept, low mile, and treated well here. Other than the radio and alarm, it's 100% original NIssan/Nismo parts currently running the Sports Resetting ECU from Nismo (and running appropriate fuel). I have the complete set of S-Tune configuration parts here less the S-Tune Camshafts and the S-Tune ECU for the R34, and I thought it might be possible that someone who has imported an S-Tune car but decided to tune it has them available. Omori factory will not sell the parts, and even refused my advances to bring the car to Japan for upgrades (for an R-Tune setup). So, with the cams and ECU, and a metal headgasket, I'd at least be able to duplicate the package here on my own. Valve covers and authentication plate would be a bonus but I'd probably never install them. I realize there are easier tuning options worldwide, but I'm very addicted to the factory-tuned street car feel that these cars have and prefer to modify them as little as possible other than these easy drop-in parts. I purchased a NE-1 exhaust system from another user here a couple years ago when I was having trouble finding one, I'm hoping someone has what I'm looking for again. Thanks, -Dan

I have a Nismo Twin Plate for my R34 that too many people have handled, and the orientation of the clutch discs is lost. Each disc is the same, but both have the tabs on the center of the wheel leaning towards one side of the disc. I can arrange the clutch four different ways, with the tabs towards the center hub (larger gap between plates) or facing away from the center hub (smaller gap between plates). We put it together once, and the plate closest to us (standing where the gearbox was) had worked loose and it's tabs were somehow not in the hub. After the 2nd disassembly, we started to question the assembly orientation. Can anyone tell me which way is correct?

That is accurate. You'll need a factory ECU of some type if you wish to program any additional keys. In addition, I was told by someone in the USA that they swapped a 00 V-Spec ECU into a 2002 NUR car and the NATS versions were incompatible, so you'll need likely a specific ECU. I was able to type my chassis number into FAST and find out what ECUs were compatible and just made sure I got one of those.

I like it fine -- I only obtained the factory ECU so I could program additional keys. I didn't want to be running with just a single working key. Also, my car is unmodified, so I did leave the factory one in for the moment, but as mods get done, my tuner is fine with the Power FC being the ECU to go to. They are experienced with it. As far as the dealer, they needed a Consult with a NATS 2.0 or higher card, I believe they told me.

Found a photo of a genuine one -- I guess they are foam five-sided shapes. This one is shown with the lip attached to it

I may have taken a photo of the diffuser before I installed it on the car. I will look when I get home and try to post it. The engine cover, pictured in the last 1-2 posts, has two holes in the right side that hooks from the original diffuser fit nicely into, and I'm pretty sure you've got 12 M6 bolts that hold it on, all spaced around the front. The original one also has two pieces of triangular foam on it, similar to the four pieces shown on the engine cover. Often, these are ripped off, but I've never seen the foam pieces on a non-genuine diffuser. Incidentally, the 'lip' on the car itself is much smaller and is standard on all the GTR (with two holes on the left and two on the right), but the full underbody diffuser is only part of a V-Spec or II package. It looks like a flat piece but creates a central gap that appears to be divided into three sections when it's mated up to the lip. The non V-Spec literally looks like it's missing a part, but really isn't.

When you insert your key on a JDM R34, your car does two things -- it checks the ECU, and it checks the key, and makes sure they were both registered together with the system. It only allows the fuel to flow if both match. An aftermarket ECU will respond in a generic fashion that always passes. However, if you put a different stock ECU in the car than the keys were originally encoded under, your keys will have to be recoded to match. I found this out when I purchased my car with only a single key and an Apexi Power FC. I was able to obtain two keys (with chips inside, dubbed 'master' keys in Nissan lingo) and cut them, but the dealer could not program them because the consult 2 does not talk with a non-factory ECU. When I obtained a factory ECU that I bought from a private seller, and I swapped it in, the original, working key failed to work anymore. That key was not programmed with *that* factory ECU, and thus, I had no keys that would work at all. I had to drive the car to the dealer on the Apexi, swap in the factory ECU there, and then program all three keys. Once they were programmed and working, I could swap out the factory ECU for the Apexi and all three keys continued to work. -D

I just picked up what i understand to be a complete R34 GTR airbox for my car. Currently I have cone filters. It's pictured assembled here with the scoop snorkel removed for clarity. I'm a bit confused about something -- obviously, the top air input comes from the air snorkel, but the one on the right, which is teardrop shaped, seems to fit into a matching teardrop hole in the right side of my engine bay. It's listed by Nissan as an air duct. However, this one is closed off -- as shown here. (I've since removed the foam and cleaned it up in the 2nd pic, and will reapply a foam layer that isn't falling apart. I don't understand why the airbox even has a intake hole on the side if this is supposed to be closed off. Do I have the wrong part or something? It fits so perfectly, but it doesn't even seem like a duct to me, it has no airflow. What am I not seeing or understanding about how this works? Why is it there if it's closed?

Tomei's stroker kits come in 86.5, 87, and 88mm. I think the Nur engine was a standard 86mm bore but the Z-Tune forged internals are listed in spec sheets as being 87mm. Those were buy back/reconditions, so that might be why they are over.

I have no section B00 in fast, which is where it's listed, for whatever reason. I have the rest of the sections, I'll have to check my other CDs and see what pops up.

*smacks forehead* Didn't even think of fast for aftermarket upgrades... That's definitely it. Resolved to B0100-AA325 and I found examples and pictures of it on the web and it is a match. Still can't seem to find any authoritative data on if it's packaged with both parts. Thanks much!

I have a Nismo exhaust, but not a Weldina, that I cannot find a part number for on my car. It's advertised in the GT-R dress-up catalog that came with most of the GTR/V-Spec I catalogs, a single huge outlet with a 80mm pipe, and it's called a Spec-Pro. The one on my car has been chopped up kind of bad, the pipe from the cat to the tip had a muffler in line that was roughly cut out and pipe was welded in while it was on the car. Looks a bit ugly under there, and for a fairly significant show appearance I'm doing in the spring, I would like to fix it. It's my preference to stay away from 3rd party exhausts at the moment, the car is being presented as essentially stock with a few Nismo pieces, but all 'Nissan'. I'll probably get into a Kakimoto down the line but for now, no. Nissan wants about US$1,200+ship to the US for stock exhaust components from the cat out to the tip. Yikes! Anyway, I have the opportunity to buy a NIB Nismo exhaust of this type, kind of an off the shelf sitting in a warehouse boxed up by the part name (Spec-Pro Nismo Exhaust for BNR34) kind of purchase. The price is significantly cheaper than Nissan components but I can't get a square answer from the high-volume sellers if this item was sold only as a giant can tip or if the Spec-Pro 'Muffler' as the product is called includes the pipe coming from the cat too. Even japanese language searches on the product are not turning up an authoritative answer. Does anyone know for sure? Here's the two pieces I appear to have (but chopped up), and have no reference to the stock parts. That muffler pipe is not a R34 stock version, correct? If not, I am starting to assume it is sold with as a set with the Spec-Pro. This is what's on the can:

I am replacing the lower center instrument part of the dashboard, the piece around the radio, due to some excessive surface damage from the previous owner. The Nissan part is 68104N. Japanparts has added this to their database, but there are three order options and I cannot discern the proper part to order. My car is listed as 9910, TV2, Int.Color 'G', 2K, RB26DETT, GTR/V, MT.F6. In Nissan FAST, the part code is 68104N, the part # is 68104-AA001. The following specification data is shown when I hit F5. Prod.M/Y:9805-9910 SpecCode: Specification: Trim color:G Body color: 2K ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Prod.M/Y:9910-0008 SpecCode: Specification: Trim color:G Body color: 4S +2K ---------------------------------------------------------------------- The Japan parts supplier has given me the following options for ordering the part: (#0) 98/05-99/10 4S gray 2 tone or 99/10-00/08 4S+2K gray 2 tone (#1) 98/05-99/10 2K black or 99/10-00/08 4S+2K black or 00/08- 4S+2K black and gray (#3) 98/05-99/10 4S gray mono tone or 99/10-00/08 4S+2K gray mono tone or 00/08- Cold area+GTR/N1 model Gray mono tone I'm guessing I need #3, but can't be sure because I can't decode quite all of the information, and although my dash is very dark, but not necessarily black, I don't have access to other cars to reference if this is more of a black or a grey by Nissan's color standards. Does anyone have experience with this and have the ability to spot which option I need? Thanks!

I may pick up a Nismo cluster for my USA-landed R34. In the USA, my car was converted to display miles instead of kilometers both on the speed gauge and the odometer, and reads a certain number of miles on the display. The imported Nismo cluster would read zero, and to maintain legal handling, I'd have to do one of three things -- have a repair shop put a federal sticker on the door indicating the milage reset ($$$), find a shop that can advance the Nismo cluster for me ($$$) or find a way to advance the R34 cluster (hopefully free). I thought if I powered it, and then fed in an appropriate speed signal, I would just have to wait until the car reached the right number of km on the display, then disconnect. I believe a signal generator could do this. I have heard from other Nissan owners that the electronic gauges on various Silvia's use 6V Peak to Peak square wave for speed, and the higher the frequency, the faster the speed. I can procure a signal generator and feed in the speedo info, putting it up to 300km/h, I'd just leave it on for a half of a day (this car only has 4,731kms on it, believe it or not) and pull it when it reaches the desired kms. I want to try, but I don't want to make an error that I can't clear by feeding a bad signal. Has anyone attempted this, or can anyone confirm the R34's speedo signal specification?

The part I'm looking for is outlined in red in the photo, new or used. I have the rest of the aero bits now, but still missing this cover. Thanks! -Dan