sweetr33

Dont see many around in my area that keep the M-spec bar and cut the centre out of, its either they get another front bar like gtr etc etc or its hidden behind the numberplate support. I like the idea of it, relatively cheap and still nice lookin

ok....didnt work.

this is a pic of als bar, its a really nice example

frosty it could be plugs or more than likely just the fuel has gone a little stale from sitting in the lines for those 5 months. Should be an issue when u start it up again. I remember when i went to test drive a r33 that just got off the transport truck, hadnt been started for like 8 months and its ran on 5 cyl's for about the for minute till the stale fuel cleared and it got decent fuel into it

lots of stuff changed huh, easier way to check if it was getter fuel would have been disconnect the fuel line goin into the rail and ignition on or crank whichever it needs to get the fuel to come out, SOME systems dont actually prime up on ignition on and require the car to be cranked to get the fuel feed up. Checking coil packs was a little bit of a waste of time cos it will still run if one drops out, just like a dog. But see how u go at the mechanics. Update when u know champ

hard to know exactly what u mean, when mines cold and i start it i notice its hesitates afew times to bring the revs on cold start idle to about 1200ish rpm if i give the throttle a touch to help it there then its fine, to me its not an issue coz i have checked everything, and its only for 1 second on cold start up then there is no drama. Just check the spark plugs if ur in doubt!!! Its not hard to do champ!! Good luck

this has been covered b4 recently. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=30817 thats the link,

ecu cant learn to that extent, Basically the car has unmeter air entering the system, ie, air that hasnt passed through the air flow meter but its entering the system abit further down the line and therefor is unMETERED and the computer gets confused with whats happening, u can hear it changing revs and probably timing and mixtures slighty to compensate. I got sick of the stalling and reconnected it back up.

i have never heard of doing such a thing but....im up for anything. Dunno if i understand what to do though

how did this go? Is it still on sale

actually that looks like a bar n plate

yeah im keen. Im after a fmic. As RAZA asked, bar n plate or tube n fin.

well im running 13 psi through stock turbo n cooler etc. But yeah obviously full boost isnt released through the turbo all the time. I realise that the noise im hearing is compressor surge but i enjoy the noise and intend on keeping it for awhile....cheers

think 1 bar is 14.7 psi anyhow. But regardless its not the BOOST that kills the turbo its the heat generated. Soo.... It can be said to be safer to run higher boost when at the drags coz of the short period of time that full boost is actually used. However the fact that more boost in theory should = more hp depending on other mods. More hp = more heat generated.

good results there championl. Will look into this idea for the meantime i think.

ok i tried this the other day and yeah the car runs heaps rich. I loved the sound but....the car wouldnt idle properly and stalled most times i came to a stop. HOWEVER if u disconnect the vacuum line going from the inlet manifold to ur BOV and block it off then..... insted of pshhhhht its "FLUTTER". Sounds amazing and the car runs a little richer but not really noticeable

Another tip, i disconnected the vacuum line going from the manifold to the BOV and blocked off that vacuum line. Holy moly, the noise that comes from the pod when excess pressure is released is aweseme, its a 'Flutter'. Should try it. It sounds amazing

why do u want to rev a cold car anyhow?? If its fine after 3 mins idling then let it idle for 3 mins before going anywhere. Boom problem solved

anyone know wat happens with that pipe that would normally go to the snout if u block it off with something???

More likely to be uni joints. The sudden transfer of acceleration or deccelaration will cause a old uni joint to clunk. Get it looked at i guess. Uni joints can be a dangerous thing if they let go, especially the front one/.......dig in a weeeh pole vault

thats bull crap. If the speed print is that much outta wack then they cant possibly just make an assumption on what speed he was doing

what would happen if u put a piece of woopy cushion over the end of the bov snout?? Hehehe imagin the noise hehe

hmmm is there alot of vacuum coming from this pipe/?? Coz if the turbo is sucking then i guess a vacuum would be created!! Im keen to try it

still internally wastegated too!!! Thats amazing power for low mount turbos. And still running an air filter. Nice effort there. Will be a 10 for sure if nothing breaks

have any people experienced problems?? I mean going by whats involved there shouldnt be ANY dramas at all. Ive done this mod and really like it. Ive gotten to the stage now where i have forgotten ive even done it. Thanx heaps for sharing information about this mod, its well worth the 5 mins it takes to do