sweetr33

Aftermarket bov's will cause that too happen initially coz they have a spring tension setting and obviously isnt set to your car or boost setting blah blah, when its adjusted correctly i dont beleive this stalling is an issue. Well my personal thoughts anyway

personally i wouldnt really bother. Its gonna make a nats dick of difference

i got 17's on my r33. Was gonna go 18's but decided to keep the 17's that were on it and go larger later on. I have trouble scraping the stock m-spec front bar as it is now and my tyre is nearly inline with the rear guard arch so with gtr front bar i am doubting if u will get that low. Sideskirts and front bar can make the car appear lower if u wanna chose that way

my plastic inner guard ended up tearing itself to bits. The loft side is on and only has a couple of rub marks but the right side seemed to be alot bigger and once a plastic clip broke at high speed the wind pushed the inner gaurd onto my wheel and burned a hole in the damn thing. Then things were flapping and carrying on so yank...off it came

go as low as u can b4 your front wheels scrub on your inner guard on full lock!!!! I am at this stage now but i think i will pull the wheels off and Turn the adjuster one more turn.

sometimes a splutter when upping boost on r33's shouldnt be pointed at the fuel pump straight away. Mine will do this when boost exceeds 14psi and the finger was pointed at some boost cut thingy. Weird coz i can override it buy keeping it nailed through the gears but once i let the revs drop down and stay in that gear to accelarate quickly it hits this so called boost cut. Hit it on the dyno and the graph was amazing lol. But i just learned how to put on the power and no probs now

im am a turbo amateur and do not know which is bigger? TD06-20G or GT3040?>

climate control is faulty is what way. Like the interior fan doesnt work? AC not working, temperature control itself isnt working. Which part dude

freebaggin thats some good info there pal. makes sense when u think about it. Im gonna keep an eye on this thread as i think its between the GT30/40 or trust TD06-20G buthavent made my mind up. SHould do a comparison people.

u gotta get it tuned to the boost u wanna run i beleive. Thats would be your best bet. I think that the motor will last a long time if its kept in good tune, it make or breaks a motor when u start upgrading things

i hear ya buddy. If u have to take it too a shop to get the work done then yeah i agree it would be worthwhile getting it done at the same time but timing belt isnt a hard job. Aslong as u line the timing marks up then all will go smoothly.

with a timing belt theres no need to change the water pump. However i would advise the change of the timing belt tensioner as this has been known to sieze and then timing belt snaps and....well u are then up for lots of dollars getting the head reco'd. Havent seen it happen myself but im sure others can tell u of there experiences

crank angle sensor wont change anything. thats what tells the computer the info it need to fire etc, if it doesnt run bad when driving then dont touch the crank angle sensor. Mine hesitates for about 2 seconds on cold starts but then is fine.

oh very true it does..... lol my bad. Damn eyes. Or brain? lol

yeah very impressive figures there. What car do u have steve?? Good of u too fill others in on the importance of a free flowing exhaust.

yeah dude i feel for u, that list entails many many dollars spent not to mention the hours. Some idiots dont have anything better to do. I will look at every white r33 i see from now on until u update and say it was found etc

yeah i drove an r32 gtr when me and a mate went around pretending to be interested. Anyway there were only good points about it. The performance for a standard car is unbelievable. With zorst and pod with more boost it would be even more unbelievable. Would luv one but am abit over my price range for now. Interior has all the gauges u need really until u are serious and need fuel pressure etc. Nice cars all round in my oppinion

true. sorry wasnt thinking. Well the thought was there i guess. hehe. get the oxy out and cut the mofo off hehe.

i didnt realise hardware stores sold it?? I have been trying to get some but can only buy it in a minimum of 100L if i want it delivered as there hours colide with my working hours

this is gonna sound dodgy but when its needed it is handy. U can also get a big screw driver and poke it through one of the holes in the camgear itself and sort of jam it from turning. Then proceed with the spanner and mallet trick. Best results would be if u had someone to hold the screwdriver tight so u could concerntrate on the cam gear bolt. Generally i would imagin u would undo it from anti-clockwise direction but a quick call to a performance shop will mend the query

mine definately doesnt have a speed cut. So lucky for me, have been racing other 33's 32's S13's etc with speed cuts, they hit em and i keep goin. I have gone right off the clock for awhile a couple of times and do not beleive there is still one hiding away somewhere. To me its not something i am concerned about or even ask the question about. Its a bonus the way i see it.

dont twist it too far otherwise there maybe contact of valves with pistons as cam gear will turn coz some are overly tight. My best advice is to give it a quick short jolt with a rubber mallet on the spanner. Continue with this afew times and it should come loose. Can be a stressful thing. goodluck

in a mild street car which most have i dont beleive the hassle of setting it up is worth while. As for more hotter setups ie drag cars or quick streeter maybe there is some sort of fuel cooling. Me personally am in the mild streeter category and although have though about some sort of fuel cooling have never gone ahead with it.

me and my dad pulled the gearbox out of my 33 gtst and replaced the clutch i must say it is a rather lengthy process. We went to my work and used the hoist so it wasnt too bad. Box comin out is the easy part, box going back in is the harder part. Disconnect the battery first of all, undo top starter motor bolt from uptop which u can do easily if u have multiple extensions on a ratchet with 14mm i think. Bottom starter bolt u do from underneath. Clutch slave just unbolts from the box and can be wired to something to keep it out of the way for now. tailshaft has to be dropped obviously and also a tailshaft safety bar type thing that rests under the shaft towards the back. Undo bellhousing bolts. I dropped the engine crossmember down to the end of the threads just to bring the motor and box away from the firewall abit coz its mighty close. I do not envy u if this is gonna be attempted on the ground coz wiggling that box back up into its location will be a big pain. not so much weight of gearbox itself its the top of the bellhousing that keeps hitting on the floor thats the hard part. Good luck with the operation

not sure if spare wheel is a roadworthy item. There is a weird way of thinking behind some roadworthy laws. Common sense doesnt always provail