revolt

Scratch that.. need a working Neo RB25DET CAS now.

I am after a Crank Angle Sensor -- the only condition is that the disc inside with the slots in it has to be flat, not bent. Edit: Found out there are 2 types of the older ones. Has to be the one with the Orange/Red rubber bit when you take the cover off. Alternatively, I am after a Neo RB25 working CAS! I am in Perth - 0400198287.

I have managed to bend the chopper disc thingy inside my Neo RB25DET CAS. Would the disc from a Mitsu RB20/early RB25 fit? Or any other Nissan one? Thanks

I am after the front right indicator (in the bumper) and headlight to suit a Series 2 Stagea. Must be in good condition (fading ok, but no cracks). Thanks

The Stagea's have a height switch, but to be legal in Aus, they have to be automatic levelling. Just put HID's in my S2. All of the original wiring was still there - just plugged them in.

1988 JE Holden Camira wagon. C20XE conversion (Manual Calibra engine), Calibra brakes, weight reduction (right on 1000kg with a small amount of fuel in it). Has 96fw kw at the moment N/A, but turbo conversion is in the works. I sold it to my brother last week... it's faster than my stock S2 Stagea.

The installer called me this morning (and didn't mention ANYTHING about the stub axle) and said if I buy a whiteline adjustable arm, they will install it and do another wheel alignment for free. Better than expected result, but still not happy with the place.

I ended up sorting it out. Didn't get any money back, but they won't get my business ever again. They claim my Left Rear stub axle must be damaged, hence why the negative camber didn't drop much. Even if this is the situation, I asked him why he didn't call me to ask if I wanted 2x bushes on the rear, or adjustable arms. He replied that neg 1.5 degree is classified as 'acceptable' in their books, so they just installed 1 camber kit. I unfortunately did not specify beforehand that I was hoping for -.5 at the front and -1.0 at the rear though. Everyone, thanks for the help anyway.

Thanks for all the replies. Both sheets (from Tyre place and Suspension joint) are in Degrees, with 'arcminutes', not decimals as in 2 degrees 19' Apart from the main labour/parts issue, should the printout from the Tyre place (1 month ago) and Suspension place (before doing the camber) be identical/very close? Because the figures I posted earlier are completely different. On the printout from the tyre place, the Toe was pretty much perfect -- Front: L: -0.1mm R: -0.1mm Rear: L: -0.1mm R: 0.0mm Yet once again, the BEFORE printout from the Suspension place shows totally different figures (yet nothing had been touched) Front: L: -1.6mm R: -6.6mm Rear: L: -3.3mm R: -3.4mm And the after results being close to +1mm on everything I am trying to figure out whose printout is wrong first (I suspect the Suspension place.. judging by the rest of their efforts), and then go from there with regards to the parts/labour from the Suspension place. Is it ok to name places on here or not? Can figures like: Left-1deg 14' , Right -0deg 54' be right? Shouldn't they be reasonably close? Thanks again everyone. I've definitely learnt my lesson. If I ever get anything like this done again, I will get a quote and SPECIFY what parts I want to be used.

When he said $950 when I dropped the car off, I just assumed that was with adjustable arms, not just the bushes. When I booked it in, I mentioned it uses R33 part numbers. I got under the car, and it is definitely just the bushes.. receipt shows $270 for bushes and $550 for labour. Here's a pic of the car. It is lowered on Tein coilovers, but not ridiculously low. Part from the labour charge, my other concern is how different the 2 camber figures were from the tyre place and suspension place (before they touched the camber). They should be identical shouldn't they? At this stage, I am willing to raise it up a bit just to get the camber reasonable.

I replaced my tyres a few weeks ago, and the inners of every tyre were worn right down, but the outsides still had reasonable tread. I got a wheel alignment done at the tyre place and the camber results came up as: Front: Left -1.53 Right -1.58 Rear: Left -2.09 Right -2.18 Because of this, I decided to book the Stag in to get a front and rear camber kit installed (first time I've not fixed something myself...). $950 later ($270 for the bushes, $550 labour, $130 wheel alignment), the before and after results from the suspension place are concerning. BEFORE (the car had only done about 300km's between the above results and these) Front: Left -1.14 Right -0.52 Rear: Left -2.19 Right -1.21 If those are the true figures, then I wouldn't of even bothered with the front kit.. so, I don't know what to think of this. The after results are: Front: Left -1.14 Right -.54 (effectively no change) Rear: Left -2.01 Right -1.25 So. Did I basically pay $950 to get slightly less camber on the left rear!? Also, does that labour charge sound very high? I read around before booking it in, and labour was generally a lot lower... I did make the mistake of not actually getting a quote before going ahead though. If I knew it was going to be that expensive, I would of bought a whole bunch of stuff and got it all done at the same time. So my questions with this are: 1) Why are the top 2 readings so far out, when the car had only done 500km's between them..? One of the readings is screwed? 2) $550 labour!? 3) Should the installer, being a dedicated suspension place, have looked at the initial readings and called me to say further parts are needed to get the rear camber down further?

Shit! I completely forgot about this.. doh.

I can probably come, but I'd have to leave at about 2.30pm to go to work.

I rarely post on these forums, but I came out from the shops today and there was a yellow S2 parked next to me! Armadale Shopping Centre (Perth). Took some pics. I have seen this one around a few times.

Got mine 2 days ago from another member of this forum. 2000 RSFOUR 18" Rims Tein Coilovers Dayz Bodykit Booked in for Vapour Sequential Injection conversion Performance mods to come.