amosite

Anyone?

Sorry guys there are sold. Good luck with the engine rebuild Daniel- Let me know what numbers you end up getting

I think it is a conspricy! Theory is that the Club lock companies are not making enough $$ due to better alarms and they hire people to do these things. This brings back the old habbit of having a club lock in the car for self defence. Johnny H is definitly behind this...

Greddy TD06-20G Poped on the dyno running NO2 Pm me if your interested

I have a 600x300x 75 Hybrid I/c I dont need it anymore and you can haveit for $750

Excellent condition and used for nearly just over a year. Done about 16,000 Klm. No circut racing done on these! just street driving. Has adjustable bump and rebound and adjustable height. Super light weight and weighs about 6 Kg each. Comes with adjusting spanners but have lost the adjusting tool. Paid over $5500 for these new! $2200

These are off my brothers car which topped out 337wheel kw (about 450Hp) on 1.4 bar (20.5 psi) after we installed the injectors. Please note this this is on pump fuel and with the finial power run and MAP I chose to drop ignition timing to compensate for the inconsistent fuel we have in sydney No 1/4 mile figures have been done at the creek, however with the Data pulled out of the MoTeC ECU 11.2 and 11.1 were the figures at 195 kph (about 121 mph). These have been on the car for a year and a half up until a couple of weeks ago these were only run on a measly 1 bar boost due to lack of fuel however we have since fitted 1000 cc injectors, pump etc etc to run up to 20 psi. They ahve done about 21,000 Road Klms These bad boys are on 20Psi by 4,000 RPM and provide punch all the way to 8500 RPM where power does start to drop off slightly with the current set up. Best used with aftermarket IC, ECU, Exhaust, cam gears, further intake and exhaust ect etc. If you have the mods you can push an extra 4 psi and achieve more grunt however I chose not to do this. These are genuine NISMO turbo's not made up local units with full steel shaft that is larger then standard, larger compressor wheels and duel roller bearings. Selling due to upgrade that should put us in the mid ten ohh bracket Please do not reply with stupid offers as these cost over $4800 new and are an absolute steal at $2300 If you would like pic's please email me

Its mechanical Looks like they will sell on ebay for LESS then what I have posted them for!

Your pretty much correct. Red Ign 12V Black is Negative White is Lights Make sure it is Ign on 12V otherwise you will **** a sensor out

Yeah sorry ppl. My email notification was off and I have not had a chance to drop on by... So I didnt know I had PM's and posted it on ebay! http://cgi6.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?V...&sort=3&rows=50

The Factory ECU does all these simple functions. I.e Factory ECU still connected. It does the basic functions that the factroy ECU do fine, idle speed, power steering comp, cold start, air conditioning switch etc. You take what you need and make it user defineable with the ECU. Why spend time tuning something to do what the factory ECU does fine! It would be a waste of time to tune something like this as there will be neglidgeable results. When the air con is on, I would assume that it would work? :-) There is no sub fitted to the car, but running 2 fuel pumps, plus the original that seems to be fine along with all the other electrical crap that is installed into the car. In sydney, were do we get -15 deg??? The tempreture compensation has not been set up THAT low. Frankly, there is no need to. The tempreture compensation has only been configured for hot intake temps. With somer coming on and with the differing quality of fuels we have these days, it is better to be safe then down and out with an engine out at the machine shop. They way it has been configured is so that on hotter days (or intake temps) it will drop the configured amount (what ever you program into it) of timming to reduce detonation. This works well on track days where IAT are excessive. This can also be done for boost. I generally drop 1 lbs at 38 Deg 2 lbs at 40 deg. This also means that I do not have to drop as much ign timming. As I said, it is better to drive the car home then to trailer it. Especially from Wakefield! Barometric compensation is available, but since the car is not driven to the snow fields, there is little reason to set this up. However if needed, it is a matter of getting the log from the ecu and detirmining how rich it is to when it was initially setup. A trim can then be entered into the compensation MAP which will aliviate the slight rich running of the car. Regarding the closed loop? There is no reason to run close loop if the car is mapped properly. Closed loop is mearly an aid for people who done have base maps, cant tune, lazy or all of the above. FYI the car uses about the same amount of fuel as it did before with normal every day to day driving. The CEL light has been disconected. Once again, the car is mapped propery and unless the car is filled up with desiel, it wont knock. There is a knock link fitted just in case which is a much better visual display. I will find the time soon enough to configure a pizo sensor to one of the inputs ao that the ecu can use it to drop timming in the case of a high "knock" frequency. Limp mode is not needed since the car is Mapped. in the event of an engine faliure, I trust that my brother will tow the car and not try and drive it. That is just common sence. However since we are not running air flow meters worse case is if an intercooler hose pops off it can be driven on its primary map (it will do so as there is no boost to switch it to secondary map function) This happend to me not long ago when I was cheking things over. The car is NA, but with a much louder turbo sound. Simply awsom! I dont suggest you try this at home as it is easy to overspeed the turbo doing this. CD player works fine. I did the tunning It took me 1 weekend and 3 tanks of fuel During the week I ran it up on the dyno for full power sorting, did a quick road tune on the way home and handed the keys over. The ECU has duel lambda, logging, advanced features. It took another weekend to install the bungs for duel lambda, install the ECU, water temp, 3 BAR MAP sensor and IAT sensor, EGT Sensor, shift lights, remove the AFM,s with custom Trumpets and beacon for the track. Cold start idle was not tunned...its factory. Cold Start enrichment was done on the way to work the following day. Tunning cost? Brotherly love? I would say if you were to get a shop to install it you would be lookning in the vicinity of $2,000 to $3000 for an installation like this. This was not really a base installatioon, more like an intermediate installation. Base costs would be less. For the $$ you have in mind, I would not even consider the Power FC. I would be using the LINK plug in. Lap top tuneable, no AFM's, semi closed knock control, fuel, ignition and boost control. Basically all the shit that the factory ECU does. This would be better value for $$

30G is a rotary turbo from what I gather! Best used on higher exhaust gas engines with lower boost threshold

I never had any probelms with HKS filters... I did have probelms with K&N Next time you service your filter, hold it up to the sun and see if you can see any holes.

79 trim is about 4000 Spool time. Meaning you wont have useable boost until this threshold is met Easiest way to decide is if you want 50 hp at top? Or 50 hp lower down? If it is a street car, run the 450 model. Track car, 500 minimum!

Never ending dramas with leaking water jackets! They are a thing of the past and will stay there. Do japs use them? Do Yanks use them?

My Bro is using N1 turbo's which I hear are similar to what you are after. I do believe that the 2530's are larger in compressor size and are suited for higher RPM, bigger cams and more boost. We did not consider these due to this nature...hence the choice for N1's Running motec engine management and 13 psi we ran out of IDC which was expected. The car is smoother then the factory computer and of course it is tunned correctly and results in more power but the injectors, pump and rails are on their way. If you belive that a Power FC will result in better drivability you have been gravely misinformed! Ask any tunning guru, GTR's run 6 throttle bodies You need to run TPS based maps up until boost where the secondary map comes into play. If this is not done, you get a 3,000 gold box that is a waste of $$ Tuned correctly a power FC is nothing compared to motec! I must admit that was a pretty bold statement!

Greddy EGT Memory and warning Will post better pic's of this shortly

In the day

At night

Apexi Boost gauge $160 60mm mechanical

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Mark and others, check your email IBD whats yoru email dude?

Blitz Blow off valve with both Filter and trumpet adaptors with blitz pipe for intake in excellent condition. $250 Shipped! Please email me for pic's