RB2600

Great to see it alive!! I almost thought it was a bit of shuffle at the start but I think it's just the noise of the BOVs on low-medium load?

Cheers There's no opportunity for leaks as the wiring you see in the 2nd pic connects to two terminals on the lid and there's another plug underneath. Some people change to the thicker cable all the way down to the fuel pump but I've not heard of any issues with people using this method and I haven't had any thus far.

Haha! SAU famous! Yeah, flex fuel would be best if it were a daily. I'm just lucky to still be driving my old bomb so can justify going on E85. And that way I never have to sacrifice the power

Anth, my thoughts exactly. If it makes more then great, but 350kw peak power would be plenty enough. If I can get say 220kw by 4000rpm, and 300kw by 5000rpm, that would be ideal. Are you going to use e85 Anth? Can't wait to see the results of yours being tuned!

That would be usmair, his mph didn't back up the power figure though but apparently he was having some problems. Haven't heard anything about him going back to the drags or jumping on another dyno to confirm power figure. Another e85 result that surprises me is Nathan's which is also on Trent's dyno. 379rwkw, -7 and e85. Even my mate Grech's result is 36xrwkw, -7, e85 on Racepace's dyno. Would be interesting to see more e85 results with these small turbo setups to get some comparisons

Ahh well that explains the mid range difference! 350rwkw should be quite achievable on these setups with E85. Seen -9's go 350rwkw on 98 with a built engine. The one in NSW, Nick I think his name is? Would be interesting to see his on E85! Buy another one

Grant, nothing unhealthy with that figure at all. As you can see, by 5000rpm you're up by a massive 45kw. Don't think you mentioned cam gears either in that recipe. Obviously some more gains to be had in the mid range. That along with E85 would have been pretty damn quick setup. Also you didn't have fuel pump, injectors or afms upgraded which would have been the limiting factor to push any further.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-14#entry5406898 Pic is massive, so those interested can clicky

Congrats! Didn't spot you sorry, maybe I was too busy focusing on make do GPS and rushing to get to Trent's cos was running late

Nah, I'm talking about Grant, cos I know he had his old 33 gtr tuned by Trent and got a little over 300kw on the same dyno with similar mods and he had PFC. To settle any doubts, I think it seems like quite a normal figure. Although peak power is quite similar, you can see where the gains are with the car properly tuned. 50Nm difference in peak torque. Reaches almost exactly the same spot (Approx 4200rpm) 80kw vs 95kw @ 3000rpm 190kw vs 210kw @ 4000rpm 220kw vs 265kw @ 5000rpm 260kw vs 300kw @ 6000rpm If Grant doesn't mind I'm happy to post his graph or he can so people have something to compare with. Or it can be found in the RB26 dyno results thread anyway

Must've been me, was on the way to Chequered, what car were you in? LOL you doubting Trent?

R31Nismoid claims 280rwkw on 18psi @ Racepace dyno with his stock ecu. To be honest I was expecting much less though - around 250rwkw. I would not be surprised if it were to read lower on a dyno dynamics roller dyno. Point of my dyno check was to ensure AFR is safe, timing is accurate and no knocking - all of which were achieved. Also I'm very glad to report that there is very minimal boost drop from the Garrett 1 bar actuators with only a small amount of preload wound in. Reaches a maximum of 17psi at 4,000rpm and does not drop below 16psi all the way till redline. When it gets tuned, I will get the cam gears dialed in and reattach the boost controller to keep the gates shut for as long as possible. Looking forward to some good improvements in the response department.

The run was obviously done in 3rd, but we tested in both 3rd and 4th gear and there was negligible power difference.

R33 GTR Nismo 1.2mm metal head gasket Racepace cam gears, but not yet adjusted Garrett -9's with 1 bar actuators Nismo fuel pump (rewired) Mine's front pipe 3" test pipe 3.5" Tomei Ti Expreme Greddy Profec B spec 2 (disconnected) 17psi on standard ecu Soon to be added: PFC, ID1000, Z32 AFM, E85

R33 GTR Nismo 1.2mm metal head gasket Racepace cam gears, but not yet adjusted Garrett -9's with 1 bar actuators Nismo fuel pump (rewired) Mine's front pipe 3" test pipe 3.5" Tomei Ti Expreme Greddy Profec B spec 2 (disconnected) 17psi on standard ecu Soon to be added: PFC, ID1000, Z32 AFM, E85

Sounds good, for the time being I'll stick to feeding the solenoid off the standard wastegate feed location. If that doesn't work, I'll look into picking it up from the plenum. I'll report my findings back here once I'm done and will also comment on my experience between running straight off the actuators and having a boost controller keeping the gates shut for as long as possible. Cheers for all your help guys

I can appreciate your method, but doesn't that mean the waste gate lines will be a hell of a lot longer? So given that the two hoses going to the stock solenoid are blocked - which they were, would it be ok to block the signal Line leading back to the intake as well? When I had the greddy setup on there, I had blocked it from the intake pipe nipple And from the hard line side too obviously. And would the location of where the actuators gets its standard feed from (that water and air divider thing on the back of the head with Two fittings) be an appropriate location for a pressure source for the new solenoid?

Can it just be vta?

Sorry, not too sure what you mean by the last part. But after doing some more research, looks like we might be onto something. Since my system runs internal actuators, I'm to use the COM port for the actuators and the NO port for the pressure source. The instructions do say to unblock ALL plastic plugs on the valve unit and makes no mention of plugging back up the unused NC port which is used for external gate. Some say this is for the solenoid to bleed the air that the gate is seeing. So I will remove the plug on the NC and hope for the best!

So the top part of the pic where the 2 red dots are. These two hoses need to be joined together? Because both were blocked off with a bolt in each when I still had the boost controller in.

Thanks Ewan, will try and give that a go. Any ideas on whether the pressure source for the greddy solenoid is correct or not?

To draw it out clearly, I have blocked the hoses from plenum to factory boost solenoid with bolts and clamped the ends. Removed said boost solenoid and left it unplugged at the loom. Had a spare vacuum tube hard line so chopped it close to the fitting and ran the boost pressure source there as can be seen in the diagram (I think this is where my problem lies?) Other side of Greddy boost solenoid was plumbed into a Tee and equally diverted into the actuators. The vacuum control tube was also blocked off at the end of the hard line and at the bov return side. Legend: Red // are items removed Red dots are blocked with bolt and clamps in the line. Blue rectangle is greddy solenoid

I almost suspect that I've plumbed the controller incorrectly.. I never imagined actuators suffering from decreased performance through heatsoak? Yes, it does seem like a fair bit and I may drop it down 2 psi through the actuators before heading to the tuner to get AFR checked and timing double checked. Do remember R31Nismoid mentioning that 18psi on -9s with a stock ECU is safe, given that the standard pump is up to the task or have aftermarket fuel pump. I have a Nismo drop in and have rewired it already. Seems to be spiking to 19psi but doesn't hold that boost to redline.

So I've been having some issues with getting over 1 bar on the greddy profec b-spec 2. At one stage it was getting over 1 bar but did not do it very well (misfires, flat spots etc). Now I have reverted back to the stock boost control system on my R33 GTR with -9s (Garrett 1 bar actuators) and it hits 19psi with no issues. I'm sure if I spent some more time on it, the ebc will eventually work fine. The funny thing is, it was boosting over 1 bar on one day and with nothing else changed it wasn't on the next drive. All hose clamps, vac lines etc have been replaced. The reason I bought it in the first place was to chase extra response over the actuator setup. Supposedly these EBCs are capable of keeping actuators shut until desired boost (which I set at 3psi under max boost to prevent spiking) and bust open at that point. So my question is, how far behind (in terms of response) would off the shelf garrett 1 bar actuators be, compared to an ebc setup correctly? Or allow me to ask, will the actuator setup alone allow me to have at least 1 bar of boost by 3700-3800rpm like the properly working -9 setups are getting? My setup includes stock 33gtr dumps, 2x 2.75" to 3" front pipe, 3" straight pipe and 3.5" catback. Stock airbox, adjustable cam gears and will be tuned on Haltech platinum pro with or without afm pending. The car is not tuned yet (stock ecu) and feels quite laggy. It almost feels like a -5 setup atm. The ignition timing is currently set at 20-22 degrees BTDC getting a pickup from a high tension lead on #1 cylinder. There seems to be 2 degrees variance depending on which timing light I use.

if your gate setting or "SET GAIN" is adjusted to less than 3psi from your desired boost pressure, IE 13-14psi, you may experience spiking. So keep your SET GAIN setting under 100 in psi units or 0.68 in kPa units. Bear in mind, GAIN will affect overall boost as will SET. So adjust these conservatively. If you've already reached your desired boost on the current settings, then just leave them as is. I'm still having issues with mine too at the moment because it's too hard to setup on the road in 4th gear. Will have it on the dyno in a couple of weeks so the tuner can set it up properly.