RB2600

this is going to be one lean, mean, fighting machine awesome work and subscribed!

Worded updates aren't going to cut it. Video updates please of said working 4wd system lighting up a street

Are people changing/upgrading their master cylinders with these big brake kits? Changing from 242 to 262 (yes laugh away people ) on the Honda required me to upgrade the booster and MC as well. Before doing so, the pedal was very low and spongy even after bleeding.

Sorry, I did not mean to sound like I was whinging, just realised that it could have sounded that way over the internet. I suppose everyone's definition of "thick coat" is different which is where it makes it difficult to judge how much to spray. Btw if you don't mind me asking, what is that bracket that sits behind the oil pump for? (gold one on the very bottom) I dont quite remember mine having something like that

Cheers dude, in 2nd year Mechanical Engineering - I.E. no life

Haha "Having noticed some members having trouble with this paint application" I am definitely a victim of this! Beautiful execution mate, funnily I've actually found the opposite to work well for me for some reason. I've done light coats on the lower timing cover and have had what I think to be better results. I find that I can better limit the amount of over spray. And you're right, heat guns are essential, hairdryers simply don't cut it..especially in the current cold Melbourne weather.

-9 on an RB30..its very responsive like a NA. Sounds like a pretty lethal setup. Add e85 to the mix and you should be well above 340rwkw in the winter. Some people have hit around 370rwkw on e85 on a standard 26 with -9s. Power figure yet to be backed up with 1/4 run though. Ditch the 32 dumps for some 34 dumps. 55mm outlet compared to a 59mm outlet on 33 dumps but you can see the inlet of the 34 dumps promote flow that is more laminar. That and its quite a bit bigger in the middle as well. Keen to see how this turns out for you

Amazing build dude, loving your attention to detail and your willingness to clean and restore absolutely everything. It is an understatement to say that this car will be a head turner when it's up and running. Also wanted to ask if you have any more photos of driver side front cv joint repack and install. Did you get genuine nissan boot with bands and grease? If so, was wondering what tool you used as there are different types to choose from. Regards Michael

More progress today, exams are approaching so it really should be time to get studying Installed the new water pump Wrinkled the lower timing belt cover, just to prove to myself that lighter coats would work better. I didn't spend alot of time on prepping this item so some bits of paint was left over which you can see in this photo, but obviously once it's on the car, it's a different story. And it's finally starting to look a little more like an engine again!

Thanks for the advice guys. I just might set them back to zero. I also feel safer that way.

Another update: Slowly getting things done, almost ready to put the head back on. Cleaned the surface of the block. Also spent quite a bit of time getting the head gasket as clean as possible. Just needs a coat of hylomar and is ready to go back in. Before After Layed down a coat of VHT. Unfortunately it's TERRIBLE weather to be spraying but meh, the quality is not that important. As long as it's not blue!

lmao, in due time. for now, let me get the thing running first

Also, excuse my ignorance, but what is the associated problem with turning the camshaft (with gear) all the way around - say clockwise, if I nudged it out a little bit when the head was already off?

Cheers man, anything related to timing always gives me nightmares =/

I've got a set of Racepace adjustable cam gears from an old motor, that I would like to install into my new engine and they've been dialed in for the previous setup. My question is whether or not it will be fine to install as per normal? I.E. take stock gears off, bolt adjustable gears on, line up dots on cam gears to timing cover back plate, line up timing pulley to oil pump mark and install timing belt and idler and tensioner as per usual. Or will installing this way cause me to be a tooth (or more) out / screw up the timing? Pics to show where the cam gears are currently adjusted to I also have the head currently off and taking the stock cam gears off caused a slight ANTI-CLOCKWISE movement. I've been told to check the alignment ONLY from CLOCKWISE rotation. Would it matter if I just aligned the cam gear timing marks regardless of rotation direction, considering the head is off at the moment? Finally, I will be heading to the tuner ASAP after I have the car up and running, it will only be light driving to get it rwc'ed, registered and next destination would be the tuner's workshop. Thanks in advance

You'll be there for ages, dry ice will be the much easier option!

Just a hairdryer Ants, will probably need to borrow one when I get to doing them next. Having done the coil pack cover first (like an idiot, should have done lower timing cover first for practice), I have a better idea of how thick of a coat it needs.

Yeah, definitely, doing everything by the books, so it should all pay off in reliability in the end

Update: Water pump and timing belt have come in, I fear I may not be able to hold myself back and finish the engine off before exams! My very poor attempt at wrinkle finish on the coil pack cover. Thankfully I have a spare one so it seems like I'll be holding off on re-doing the covers until the weather gets warmer. You can see here that there's a fair bit of over run. I suppose my definition of "thick coats" and the can's directions to apply thick coats may differ. Went to town on it with the hair dyer as well.

Thanks dude, let's just say I got it for a very good price

so bit of an update: ordered a gates timing belt and water pump this morning so should have it by tomorrow. The black bottle is Matic D, hoping this pic might be useful for people who need part numbers: Had some free time today so decided to freshen a few things up and make an attempt at spraying some stuff to practice for the block and engine covers. Before After Before After Will see how much wrinkle I can get tomorrow!

dude, that would be awesome!

Thanks for the kind words and the tips on using VHT Btw, we are getting soooo ripped off here, VHT in America seems to be all under $10 a can. Cheapest I could find locally is $25 a can from a mob in NSW by the name of engine master on ebay. Yeah, that is very true. I just prefer not to disassemble too many things if I can help it. Will do a comp test with the engine out. Will make two brackets to bolt the starter on and connect it to a battery. If it's good, I won't have to rely on myself (or my torque wrench) to torque everything up correctly. If no good, we'll go from there. Only doing little bits and bobs now as exams are quickly approaching. Have 3 weeks off in July to work on it flat out, so all the action will happen then!

So sorry to hear about your car getting stolen and treated the way it was. But hey! Things are looking good now, your build is bloody awesome and can't wait to see it finished and see you out at Sandown and Winton

Hope this will help ramp the -9's up nice and early! Going to make an opening at the back of the ashtray as it's currently too long to shut the lid.