FTO

Anyone that sent info so far, thanks will get back to you asap. Looks like aircon fan and radiator also.

Hi guys, chasing up ; RHF guard Hood . Front Bar & reo. Headlights L&R. Grill. To suit R33 Series ! or Series 2 considered if i can locate matching panels. Prefer Brisbane or consider interstate if shipping doesn't cost the earth. PM or SMS 0418 8833 72.

Hi guys, chasing up a set of R33 ser2/R34 front upper control arms..must have good bushes. Also set of 4 shocks in good shape, preferably low k or replacement..pref Bris or probably can arrange courier pickup if necessary, for the right ones. [email protected]

Both front upper control arms? Bushes need to be in good shape..able to post Bris?

Hey mate, chasing up the front upper control arms if the bushes are good, and maybe the ps rack, plus a few bits. Sent you a PMl the other week about it..in Bris also.

If you can run the pump by bridging the relay, there's no signal from the ECU to the pump relay. Check the CAS..seems a bit co-incidental if you just had it tuned.

I've got them out a few times by using a hammer & cold chisel. Bite into the side of the plug with the chisel and rotate it using a series of blows to break it loose. Not ideal, but works..get a replacement plug first.

Interesting thread.. Just a couple of thoughts, The DIY oil industry is a trillion dollar market, and most of the advertising claims reflect the grab for market share. Ultra low viscosity oils (0w/20, 5w/30 etc) were developed for below freezing starts and increased mileage benefits..and not extended engine longevity. Running these oils at startup in moderate/warm climates means your running oil the consistancy of machine oil at a time when clearances haven't stabilised and lubrication is minimal. Your engines lubricating system, oil pump and bearing clearances were not designed to run such oils. In this country SAE recomends 10w/30 and 10w/40, like most manufacturers do for 90's vehicles, for ambient temps in most areas. better to stick with that range in a quality oil. Oil viscosity ratings, and tests are conducted on clean oil stocks in a lab environment, and don't reflect oil thats been running in your engine for the last 2 months or more. Using Delvac or any diesel oil will cause oil leaks in any mid to high mileage engine, as they contain a very high level of detergents. Synthetic oils become contaminated just the same as dino oils do, with combustion by-products, blow-by, fuel contamination and condensation. Using extended change intervals means running contaminated oil for longer periods. Running expensive syn racing oils for OEM recomended change intervals can be very expensive, and probably has a very limited benefit. Filters are as important as the oil your using, maybe even more so, if you choose the wrong one. There's no substitute for oil film strength in a perf engine, so viscosity should match the upper level recomended in the SAE range for the appropriate ambient temperature. When it comes to recomended viscosities, who are you going to trust..the manufacturer (who pays for warranty claims) the oil companies? or the guy at the store.

Hi guys, got an issue with a squeaking noise in both sides of the susp, up front. A bit hard to track down, but appears it might be the upper control arm bushes. Is that the most common issue?..and whats the bang for buck fix..poly bush kit, OEM bush replacement or look for a pair of decent upper arms? Thanks, dont need the car off the road, it's a daily.

A bit of over reaction here I think. Yeah I fitted one of these years ago and posted up some info on it at the time. Basically the only difference is the clutch plate itself, the pressure plate and throwout bearing have the same part numbers as the Skyline clutch. When you compare the two driven plates, the only difference is the size of the springs in the sprung center, and they do not effect the clamping force or load rating..only the engagement characteristics. Clutch plate material is organic like 95% of stock clutches, and doesn't have any magicial properties or hidden pitfalls, and certainly doesn't know how many rpm's its doing. As for results, it lasted 180,000k's and wasn't treated the best at times. The stock one gives around 130,000 if your lucky. Driving with it was pretty much the same as stock, maybe slightly quicker to engage, pedal height & feel about the same,..hope this helps. Basically it's just the VL 3lt rb30 commo clutch offered in two forms..std & hd.

Doesn't sound good huh..definitely bottom end. Try retarding the timing while it's running and see if it reduces or goes away, if it does it's a big end. 5w/30 or 5w/40 is asking for trouble.

It will be the water pump if it was done on a major service. Sealing those things without a gasket is a hit & miss affair. And if an RB30 pump was used, it will leak where the top bolt doesn't line up...my guess anyway.

I've had a stock timing belt on a RB25DE do 230,000k (not intentionally!) and come off looking like it's hardly worn. Had replacement belts shred at 87,000. For my money I rank them like this: 1. Nismo 2. Gates blue 3. OEM Nissan wouldn't bother with anything else. The noise is most probably the idler or tensioner bearing seizing up and the belt dragging over it. I'd be replacing it real quick..better than a rebuild. Not hard to do at all, couple of hours work.

What are you asking for the manual cluster..post to bris.

Yes, the relay pulls in ok, and bridging the load contacts doesn't do anything. What gets me is the r34 has a signal wire from the control unit to the fan, plus the 2 supply cables, so this signal wire drives a voltage amp inside the blower housing to control the fan speed. The r33 isn't like that, it only has 2 power cables, and the control unit doesn't control the voltage because the cables are all light duty. Sooo there has to be some external device to control fan speed. No idea where it is..