FTO

Anyone that sent info so far, thanks will get back to you asap. Looks like aircon fan and radiator also.

Hi guys, chasing up ; RHF guard Hood . Front Bar & reo. Headlights L&R. Grill. To suit R33 Series ! or Series 2 considered if i can locate matching panels. Prefer Brisbane or consider interstate if shipping doesn't cost the earth. PM or SMS 0418 8833 72.

Hi guys, chasing up a set of R33 ser2/R34 front upper control arms..must have good bushes. Also set of 4 shocks in good shape, preferably low k or replacement..pref Bris or probably can arrange courier pickup if necessary, for the right ones. [email protected]

Both front upper control arms? Bushes need to be in good shape..able to post Bris?

Hey mate, chasing up the front upper control arms if the bushes are good, and maybe the ps rack, plus a few bits. Sent you a PMl the other week about it..in Bris also.

If you can run the pump by bridging the relay, there's no signal from the ECU to the pump relay. Check the CAS..seems a bit co-incidental if you just had it tuned.

I've got them out a few times by using a hammer & cold chisel. Bite into the side of the plug with the chisel and rotate it using a series of blows to break it loose. Not ideal, but works..get a replacement plug first.

Interesting thread.. Just a couple of thoughts, The DIY oil industry is a trillion dollar market, and most of the advertising claims reflect the grab for market share. Ultra low viscosity oils (0w/20, 5w/30 etc) were developed for below freezing starts and increased mileage benefits..and not extended engine longevity. Running these oils at startup in moderate/warm climates means your running oil the consistancy of machine oil at a time when clearances haven't stabilised and lubrication is minimal. Your engines lubricating system, oil pump and bearing clearances were not designed to run such oils. In this country SAE recomends 10w/30 and 10w/40, like most manufacturers do for 90's vehicles, for ambient temps in most areas. better to stick with that range in a quality oil. Oil viscosity ratings, and tests are conducted on clean oil stocks in a lab environment, and don't reflect oil thats been running in your engine for the last 2 months or more. Using Delvac or any diesel oil will cause oil leaks in any mid to high mileage engine, as they contain a very high level of detergents. Synthetic oils become contaminated just the same as dino oils do, with combustion by-products, blow-by, fuel contamination and condensation. Using extended change intervals means running contaminated oil for longer periods. Running expensive syn racing oils for OEM recomended change intervals can be very expensive, and probably has a very limited benefit. Filters are as important as the oil your using, maybe even more so, if you choose the wrong one. There's no substitute for oil film strength in a perf engine, so viscosity should match the upper level recomended in the SAE range for the appropriate ambient temperature. When it comes to recomended viscosities, who are you going to trust..the manufacturer (who pays for warranty claims) the oil companies? or the guy at the store.

Hi guys, got an issue with a squeaking noise in both sides of the susp, up front. A bit hard to track down, but appears it might be the upper control arm bushes. Is that the most common issue?..and whats the bang for buck fix..poly bush kit, OEM bush replacement or look for a pair of decent upper arms? Thanks, dont need the car off the road, it's a daily.

A bit of over reaction here I think. Yeah I fitted one of these years ago and posted up some info on it at the time. Basically the only difference is the clutch plate itself, the pressure plate and throwout bearing have the same part numbers as the Skyline clutch. When you compare the two driven plates, the only difference is the size of the springs in the sprung center, and they do not effect the clamping force or load rating..only the engagement characteristics. Clutch plate material is organic like 95% of stock clutches, and doesn't have any magicial properties or hidden pitfalls, and certainly doesn't know how many rpm's its doing. As for results, it lasted 180,000k's and wasn't treated the best at times. The stock one gives around 130,000 if your lucky. Driving with it was pretty much the same as stock, maybe slightly quicker to engage, pedal height & feel about the same,..hope this helps. Basically it's just the VL 3lt rb30 commo clutch offered in two forms..std & hd.

Doesn't sound good huh..definitely bottom end. Try retarding the timing while it's running and see if it reduces or goes away, if it does it's a big end. 5w/30 or 5w/40 is asking for trouble.

It will be the water pump if it was done on a major service. Sealing those things without a gasket is a hit & miss affair. And if an RB30 pump was used, it will leak where the top bolt doesn't line up...my guess anyway.

I've had a stock timing belt on a RB25DE do 230,000k (not intentionally!) and come off looking like it's hardly worn. Had replacement belts shred at 87,000. For my money I rank them like this: 1. Nismo 2. Gates blue 3. OEM Nissan wouldn't bother with anything else. The noise is most probably the idler or tensioner bearing seizing up and the belt dragging over it. I'd be replacing it real quick..better than a rebuild. Not hard to do at all, couple of hours work.

What are you asking for the manual cluster..post to bris.

Yes, the relay pulls in ok, and bridging the load contacts doesn't do anything. What gets me is the r34 has a signal wire from the control unit to the fan, plus the 2 supply cables, so this signal wire drives a voltage amp inside the blower housing to control the fan speed. The r33 isn't like that, it only has 2 power cables, and the control unit doesn't control the voltage because the cables are all light duty. Sooo there has to be some external device to control fan speed. No idea where it is..

Hey guys, got this annoying issue with the heater/aircon fan not working. Everything else seems fine. Checked the fuses, blower fan relay (3rd down rhs fuse block) all good. I replaced the fan (without checking thinking it was that)..nope. I installed another climate control unit..nope!. I'm at a loss without a r33 circuit diagram or even wiring diagram. I'm thinking maybe there's a control unit somewhere feeding the fan voltage, as the r34 appears to be different & has 3 wires going to the blower fan, not 2 as in the r33. Any suggestions?...

What, no reply? The 3rd one down is the heater/aircon blower fan. 4th one is aircon relay & in the boot is fuel pump relay. Not sure about the other 2.

Need 4 or 2 rears. PM back.

Hey guys, chasing up a decent set of shocks f&r and a w'screen to go a quick RWD. Need them yesterday..Brisbane. [email protected]

Same thing happened to me last week. Take the fuel pump access cover off (next to the battery) and check for batt voltage on the 2 pin pump connector, with the ign on. Should you have ~12v, then the pump is dead. The pump fuse & relay is also in there. Should the rubber on the bottom of the pump be soft & badly swollen, then you've been running E10 -

Quote: "how can you be sure that it was caused by the ethanol" Because the pump seals & in-tank fuel line were soft and swollen badly when removed, and when left to dry out, returned to normal size..that's what alcohol fuels do to standard rubber components. Nobody in their right mind would run E85 on a stock fuel system. "Ethanol blends may have a deteriorating effect on the rubber components of an engine. Other additives, such as benzene may also have an effect. In older models, deposits in fuel tanks and fuel lines are occasionally loosened by E10, and the fuel filter may become plugged. This is remedied by a fuel filter change. If very Ethanol rich fuel is used this may cause an engine to stall. Laboratory tests have shown that blends of 20% pure Ethanol in petrol can damage some conventional automotive paint." RAA report on E10. No point in debating it, it's just there to help anyone that might encounter the same problem.

Hey guys, thanks for the PM's re this..really do appreciate that. If I didn't get back to you, it's because of the limited number of PM's you can send..don't know what that's all about.

Not so sure about that, in most cases the ECU has a feedback loop. Should the ECU indicate the pump is faulty, for instance, then a lot of people would think that is the case, conversely if the ECU indicated no problems, then again some people would think the pump is fine..both cases being possibly wrong.. (using the pump as an example). As for E10, I've run it for 6-8 months now and the pump seals swelled to twice their size. It appears the fuel lines, and possibly injector seals also, have softened & deteriorated as well, maybe not as critical because they aren't submersed..but yes fact not opinion. Can't speak for pulsar's or anyone elses car, but if you choose to run it in a '95 RB25DE R33 Skyline you can propably expect the same result, sooner or later.

update: just in case someone runs into the same problem.. it turned out to be the fuel pump. E10 was the cause, it might be higher octane and run a tad leaner for better perf (cheap)., but stay away from it. The pump seals had swollen so much it was stopping the pump from running, intermittentaly. Also, might be of interest, hunting through circuit diagrams, I noticed the ECU self diagnostic doesn't monitor any outputs except to check it's own signal is outputed. In other words it only monitors the relay output ie. it's got no idea if the pump is running and there's no fuel line pressure monitoring..same for the IGN. and EFI. So don't put too much faith in a code 55, you could have leaking injectors, ign arcing, no fuel pressure etc.

yo..thanks for the reply, but got one organised this morning..