grae35

I run 225/45/18 front and 245/45/18 rear on OEM 18x8 coupe rims. I now get at the limit understeer so going 245/45 front and rear should fix that up and perhaps the tail more likely to kick out first than the front. But with that amount of rubber on the road grip levels will be higher than stock so unless you are on the track you probably will never notice it.

Thanks for posting Chris while I was writing my monologue. You beat me to it.

Hi Luke The bad news is your car is like mine and has had the drivers side door lock removed and a cover plate inserted. My car was a cold climate build and while I never had it categorically confirmed by Nissan Japan it would seem to be a modification by the dealer or factory to avoid icing up of the keyhole lock mechanism, or something like that. I have absolutely no idea how they expect you to gain entry with a flat battery, which is why I bought a new lock and pulled the door apart and fitted it so this would not happen to me. I know this doesn't help you out much with your problem but even though it has been 4 years since I did this job I don't think that the driver's door is openable by just removing the cover plate. I think you will have to work on releasing the bonnet by raising the car and removing the under body tray and/or front grille to gain access to the bonnet release catch from below. It won't be easy and if that doesn't work you may need to find an external source of wiring to recharge the battery to permit entry. Chris Rogers was very helpful with ideas when I got an extra key for the car in 2008. He might be able to suggest something better. Are you reading this Chris!!!!!! I have the US 2004 G35 work shop manual if you need anything looked up. They are mirror images of our cars in most respects except some secuity electronics etc. Good luck!

All coolants are not the same so it is best to flush as much of the old stuff out as possible . I have personally never had any issues swapping brands but some cars are more prone to electrolysis issues (eg some v6 commodores) and who knows what chemical reactions will occur. Having said all that though you have already flushed it 5 times so it must be getting pretty close to clear. The cooling system on my 2004 6speed manual v35 is 8.7litres capacity plus 0.8 litre for the res tank. They are 8.5 litres for the autos. If you are only draining about half of that it is probably because you are only opening the radiator drain plug and not the 3 engine cylinder block drain plugs (front, right and left sides). They are very hard to get to so dont worry if you cannot find them. My suggestion is flush one more time and (assuming the nissan coolant you bought is a concentrate - to be diluted 50:50) pour 4.35litres(manual) 4.25litres(auto) into the radiator and top up with demin water. That way you know you have the full amount of conc required. Don't forget to use the air relief plug in the hose at the rear of motor to get all air pockets out of the block. (see other posts this forum) and the top up res tank.

Hi Nate My manual also said to coat seals and boots. It said to use either rubber grease or brake fluid on the seals. I used rubber grease and would recommend it as seems to allow pistons to go in more easily than just the fuid. The tolerances on caliper to piston are quite small and the grease seemed to be prefered by most mechanics I consulted via google. I just used my fingers to lube all round seal and then push into place in the wheel cylinder housing groove they go in. However the dust boots were a different story, tried using grease as recommended on the inside of the boot but it made it such a slippery mess to then seat the boot in the cylinder and piston grooves that I gave up. Wiped off every thing and fitted boot dry over end of piston. Then put a smear of grease around piston before pushing into caliper cylinder with fingers and seating outer seal in piston groove. I used conmpressed air to carefully push piston back out half way to check boot was properly secured into housing. Be careful using compressed air as it takes minimal effort to blast piston out of cylinder. Most manuals show operator puting a small wooden block in the pad space to cushion the blow of ejection. I forgot to do this once and tried using my fingers to catch the piston. Almost broke it and took skin off!

In the absence of any replies from supplier or other sources I bit the bullet and did some google research. Brought a tub of penrite red rubber grease from autobahn and some permatex slide pin grease from supercheap and left the supplied unknown sachets unused. The job wasn't too bad. A bit fiddly reseating the new boots in the caliper cylinders but the seals and slide pin rubbers are dead easy. For anyone who is interested my caliper seals were in perfect condition. No observable wear or for that matter on the pistons or cylinder bodies. The car has done 87K and quite a few track days/ happy lap sessions etc. Probably the only lesson to be learnt is go easy on the non brembo brakes on the track. Give them plenty of cool down laps. And if you do perish your dust boots from excessive heat. They are replaceable with the overhaul kits available.

Not just the brembos My non brembos were below the wear limit after just 30000km back in 2008 when I brought the car.

This is what my 2004 manual says about master cylinder removal steps. Hope it helps. REMOVAL 1. Remove front kicking plate. Refer to EI-39, "Removal and Installation" . 2. Remove foot-rest (driver).Refer to EI-43, "Removal and Installation" . 3. Remove dash side finisher. Refer to EI-39, "Removal and Installation" . 4. Remove instrument lower driver panel. Refer to IP-10, "Component Parts Drawing" 5. Remove VDC/TCS/ABS control unit. (VDC/TCS/ABS model) Refer toBRC-66, "Removal and Installation" . 6. Remove snap pin and clevis pin from the clevis, and separate it from clutch pedal. 7. Remove clips, and remove hoodledge cover. 8. Drain clutch fluid in the reservoir tank and remove reservoir hose from nipple. CAUTION: Do not spill clutch fluid onto painted surfaces. If it spills, wipe up immediately and wash the affected area with water. 9. Remove the reservoir tank mounting nuts and then remove the reservoir tank. 10. Using a flare nut wrench, remove clutch tube. 11. First remove nuts on master cylinder assembly, and then master cylinder assembly from the vehicle

Brought off ebay from japan front and rear brake caliper overhaul kits primarily to replace the rubber piston boots which cop a caning from heat generated I suspect on track days. Thought there would be no harm replacing the piston seals also as they are probably hardened with age and heat as well. Only problem is the parts packets are labelled in japanese and I am unsure about the grease sachets included. The front kit came with one sachet of pink coloured grease. The rear kit with two smaller sachets of pink/orange grease and one white/beige grease. My question is what exactly is the grease for? I imagine that one is rubber grease for the seals and boots on reassembly but not sure why I have three different types in the two kits. Guesiing that maybe the whit/beige is for the slide pins? Anyone used these kits before or know which grease is which??????? I have emailed the supplier but so far have not heard back.

My front slotted rda's end up similar after a couple of hard track days. My last ones were machined once and slots were about half worn off and still above wear limit. Unfortunately I suffer from warpage and got bad vibrations back through steering. I had to get another set and after a few 'heated' happy laps sessions on lakeside and QR they have started to go again. It is extremely important to give trhem a good cool down session before you pull up and park the car. Unless you have the brembos our brakes are a bit light weght for track use. By the way I am using QFM A1RM pads. On my third set now.

SOLD

bump

Have you checked the battery in the key. Sounds like it might be time to buy a new one. Undo the small phillips screw and prise open the two key halves. From memory battery is 3volt and if you have a multimeter should be a bit above this if still serviceable. I think mine was 3.06v last time I checked. Anything from 3.0v or below needs replacing.

Hi Sam. Am going skidding in gympie day before next happy laps at QR July 15.. So will not get back in time to re prep the car for the track. Might be interested in a cruise though depending on dates etc.

Still good buying for anyone wanting a set .

Will take $300. Thats only $75 per wheel!

Sounds pretty normal to me. I do much the same balance of driving and get similar figures. Won't hurt to check your two rear plugs as these seem to be the most affected by km's. Also see if you have any oil in the plug tubes around the insulators. They have a habit of leaking around the rocker cover gasket. Check your air cleaner element too. Easy to see with a torch through the power duct at front above radiator with bonnet popped.

bump

still available

Don't know about that. I have looked at leaving the the centre covers off and putting in some of those cheap os wheel centres. You can even get red/black 'GTR' in OEM styling. Changes the whole look of the wheel.

Not sure about 32 gtr fitment. stud pattern will be right but will ask some guys who may know if they will have enough clearance from body/guards/suspension.

Maybe I should dig up the backyard, sell the grass and plant the wheels!!!

Price drop to $350

Narangba on the northside

Set of 4 R34 GTT OEM Alloy wheels in near new condition with no gutter rash. They are 17" x 7.5" with +40mm offset. Purchased these to use them as skidders on my V35 but decided they are in too good a condition to waste like that. So have decided to sell them. $400 ono.