grae35

Why dont you download your own manual. Save it to disk or on your computer as I have. Following is a link to G35 manuals I found two years ago. They are for the US model infinity G35 but apart from being LH drive and different security systems most basic stuff is the same as our cars. http://psedog.com/cars/fsm/g35/coupe

My manual is for a 2004 sedan so cant remember if rear eye level brake light is same for the coupe but I am guessing they would be. If other brake lights work then probably not the fuse as manual indicates there is only one fuse. This light is an LED so may be difficult to procure in oz. If you are lucky though it may just be the connection. For sedans access is via rear parcel shelf which involves rear seat removal(easy) and then parcel shelf finisher and then high mount stop lamp finisher. Good luck!

Drain for a/c condensation is under the front passenger side. It is almost certainly just that and nothing to worry about but to be sure a simple test is to lean under the car straight after you have stopped driving and parked with engine off. Let the drips hit your hand and feel the water temp/ look at the colour. If it truly is just condensation from air conditioner it will be cool (normal air temp) and clear. If on the other hand it is coolant it will be very warm/hot and greenish colour. Only other source of water in this area is windscreen washer reservoir which you can check by filling to top and see if level drops without use. Having said all that I would be 99% confident that it is just your a/c condensation drain which drips water like crazy this hot humid time of year.

According to the G35 Infinity Service manual I have both Schedule 1 and 2 60000km services are not big ones. They recommend replace oil and filter of course as well as inspect brake pads and rotors, steering gear and linkage, axle and suspension parts, and exhaust system. However many owners seem to find drive belts start to go around then so look for cracking/ fraying etc. Air cleaner element needs to be checked even though not scheduled for replacement. Fuel filter is a maintenance free type unless working on your fuel pump. Coolant they say should be initially changed after 48months 96000km and then every 24 months or 30000km.

I agree with Mark, 6PK1175 & 4PK945 are OEM sizes, as am in middle of oil & filter change right now and just looked up to belts and both numbers were facing me conveniently. Looking at my adjusters I would not recommend going more than 5mm under/over those sizes. My belts have done 53000km and while not badly cracked are just starting to show signs so will replace soon.

I have a 4dr 6mt and can assure you that ride height is not an issue. It is only slightly lower than my VX commodore and even though I was really careful about hitting parking bump stops etc in the first months with the car it seems to just go over them. Certainly no overhang issues for normal driveways and suspension is quite comfortable even running 46psi in my tyres for higher performance and grip levels. Several other coupe owners I know have lowered their cars and have done damage to front bar mainly but std height is no problem.

Depends where you garage and use your car. If it sits out in the sun a lot during the year like mine then I would suggest that it will need polishing up to 4 times per year. ( I live in Brisbane and lots of uv degradation of paint) but if kept inside mostly and you live well south of the tropics then you might get away with less frequent polishing. Though black is one of the hardest coloured cars to maintain. Lots of good polishes on the market. I personally prefer Mcguiars NXT generation Tech wax 2. Good prep is most important so get it buffed first or at least buy a quick clay cleaner (I use the Armourall one because its cheaper and just as good as the Mcguiars). Wash it weekly if you can and run your hand over the paint surface after wash and chamois dry. If you no longer feel the smooth slippery suface that it had after polishing then you need to repolish. And if it has been more than a few months then a quick clay treatment will remove a lot of surface contaminants without having to go to the trouble of re buffing. Good luck

Caltex Vortex 98. But any 98 RON fuel is going to be better for your engine than 95 RON premium or normal unleaded. Increased power and or better economy (depending how you drive it) and perhaps even more importantly less sh#tty deposits on your injectors inlet manifold/ head ports and plugs.

Andy Is there a group buy opportunity for SAU members and if so who do I see to add my name to the list?

Wow thats exceptional value considering the prices from nissan (for 350z oem). Will check out super cheap also and see what I can find. Thanks for the info.

See the link to Gates products earlier in this thread for part numbers and model fitment

Looks like Gates make a high performance belt for our cars. Any one had any experience with these? Or know where cheapest to purchase?

MR RIZK on 350Z-Tech has been getting chronic cases of this problem on his car. And from what I have read that he has tried in fixing the problem it seems pretty difficult to eliminate. Track corners are predictable so not a real issue to tap brakes before a corner. I suppose it is only the unpredictable nature of drift spins that will catch me out and hopefully not some poor marshall in the finishing area of a motorkana event . Thanks for the info. Graeme

Hey Scathing Sorry to not reply earlier. Been busy at work. Yes I always just push VDC button once for skidpan work. Didnt realise you could hold button in and get a more permanent result. Must try it next time. All of us v35 owners at gympie skid pan seem to get the same SLIP warning light staying on after multiple spins. Its does not always happen, seems related to the number of times you get more than 90 degrees to direction of travel and not necessarily how often you keep the car in a less pronounced drift. Will research pad knock back and see what else I can learn . Thanks Graeme

Thanks for the ideas guys because I too get the abs going off prematurely on some occasions. Had thought it just a characteristic of the car but will clean my sensors and see if any change. Mine is a 6MT 2004 sedan. When on the skid pan with VDC off I always get weird abs style vibrations and longer pedal travel after spinning the car, ie as I am braking going backwards. Its never a big problem cos by that stage car is going at a low speed (generally) but feels weird. Also when I first bought car it had stuffed (worn to undersize) front std rotors. I hear a common problem on G35's as well. Decided to upgrade to slotted rda's and QFM A1RM performance pads for the odd track day. They are great but before changing from the stockos I did an experiment to see how much the std set up would fade in simulated track use on the road. So I did over twenty 100kph - okph consecutive stops on a nearby vacant bit of highway and found bugger all fade but what I did get was interesting. After about the third or fourth stop it felt like the abs was going off even though wheels did not seem to be locking and unlocking and braking distance did not change much, still very short. I put it down to older brake fluid but may be something to do with those abs sensors. With the whole system rebuilt for a track day at QR in July everthing worked well and I used Penrite Sin brake fluid as an upgrade from std stuff. I still got weird rear axle braking as trail braking/coasting into turn one which gave me a bit of a fright first time it happened. Car was sliding mid corner at about 125kph just after coming off the brakes from the front pit straight. It only happened in that small window of time between braking and getting back on the throttle but was a distinct unsettling braking action of the rear wheels one side first then the other. VDC was off of course for the track but I had read that you cannot totally shut off traction control and so assumed that this must be what was happening. But perhaps it was just the ABS sensors playing up. Any one else had similar problems or know of a solution?

Hi Pete Provided I survive QR tommorrow (in the rain) then I will be at Gympie on sat in a silver v35. Also imagine John will be there to defend his title from last meet in his blue coupe. Look forward to meeting you there. Graeme

Any idea yet on price?

I reckon I could have learnt to speak and read japanese in the time it has taken since first hearing of this software conversion. Some things in life just never eventuate!

CT-14 is just a good quality degreaser. Comes in plastic bottles 1litre and up. You can use it full strength or dilute with water. I mix it 50:50 for most work and hand spray from a refillable bottle. Not the cheapest on the market but one of the strongest around. Obtainable from Supercheap Repco Autobahn etc.

Thats a great price for filter and key. Just to let you know had a second go at cleaning mine this morning. Decided that as it took dishwasher deterrgent and water and compressed air with no problems why not try ind strength degreaser. So I hit it with CT-14 rinsed it off after about 1 minute and air compressor dried. Perfect result looks like new and absolutely no damage observable and completely unclogged to the naked eye. Graeme

Vish Can you give us some details on the wheels and tyres. Are the wheels 17 inch by 7 inch and what about size of tyres are they 215/55/17 and what model bridgestones? Assume you are selling them from Brisbane. Graeme

John Am doing my cabin filter this week. I bought an ex smokers car and am trying to rid the interior of the smell. They are $115 +tax from Nissan Aust but only about $50 AUD from USA if you have them post it to you. My filter was absolutely black and the local Nissan parts manager suggested that I have a go at cleaning it first. Soak over night in dishwasher liquid, rinse and then dry. I have tried ordinary dish detergent and then my air compressor air duster with very good improvements in both air flow rate and smell. Nissan dealer reckons we do not get the huge pollen loads that they get in japan and so the filters are not vital to most Aussie environments. I think I will just have a second go at cleaning the old filter instead of getting a new one. If however you want the details of the USA parts they are obtainable from both riversideinfinity.com (look up g35 as the lh drive equivalent of our v35) or autospareswarehouse.com Cheers Graeme

Ash I was searching the net yesterday for nissan parts and found a Sydney wrecker currently selling off parts from a damaged v35 coupe. Cant remember the site but shouldnt be hard to find. The bonnett looked stuffed but all glass and other panels seemed perfect Good luck

Would appreciate someone doing my v35 2004 sedan. VIN 6U90000PV35450969. Need to know if it has viscous lsd or not? Thanks in anticipation. Graeme

Hi Rianto Can I have a Quote if its not too late for my v35 sedan 2004 gt350 6spd non brembo. I need slotted front rotors and was thinking EBC red ceramic pads front and back. Delivery to 4504 postcode. Thanks Graeme