2manynissans

Hey guys, wrote this up a while ago, same part as my Stag R34, WAY cheaper and dont crack!

Looks like the window guides are stuffed, I wrote a way to fix them for my Stag R34, hopefully they use the similar parts.....

PM Nik26, check your mail

Rear Cargo blind for Stagea WGR34 SII Working retraction and small dent. No other parts. $160

A while ago, had made some window guides and I thought I would share what I did Fully checked the internet and also went over to NZ and asked there as well! So if you cant buy em, make em! You will need to be handy with a grinder and a file to modify a BMW window clip but will not crack like the original. See the picture. Take off the retainer clip. File/cut/grind down the "legs" to 22mm to 21mm You may have to tap down the guide rail stop to insert. Put clip back on Grease lighty and insert into rail. Push back regulator arm's ball.........If I have peaked anyone's interest, PM me!

Hi All, My CAS on the Stagea S2 (hitachi type) had died so I will pass on how to fix it for around $140 No one had a replacement RSB-14K (gray colour) so I looked at what I could use. I found the RSK-14 (black colour) will work with a slight modification. PICT.1 Buy plug to suit CAS and make 1mm copper wires short, soldier ends 7mm long.....file to 2mm wide about .8mm thick PICT.2 Remove cover screws to access CAS and remove Large screw timing plate Remove old CAS and fit new CAS Put timing plate back on and tighten. Put cover back on PICT.3 Insert new plug wires into old plug, clips MUST be opposite each other. (BIG NOTE .....OPPOSITE EACH OTHER) see picture PICT.4 Tape up old plug upto new plug, try to keep dust and dirt out. I gather the reason why there is a difference between the 14 and 14K is that once the plug is on, It's hard to get off (no clip at front) I hope that helps everyone ...... JC

Hi all, I will keep it brief.... Reg till 9/15...11 months Black in colour with days kit Completely stock with turbo timer Twin sunroof, tiptronic auto 157K kms, straight body Top rear spoiler, some paint missing Scratch on front bumper Has been used as daily drive and need something cheaper to run. $6000 FIRM without stereo. Will add photos if someone is interested. John 0411 142 120 SE Melb Vic

SMS also sent......as well as PM

Just to confirm with everyone........not a flaming war.........is this fact or "hearsay" about p2p! This really makes it hard when other people (and myself) are deciding to change to another Internet provider and the "facts" are a bit grey. If you find the link, please post it. I dont work for any IP company so im not bias towards anyone. But thanks for ya input, It all helps

Hi all, Got a R31 hayman-reece towbar without wires. Genuine with removable tongue. Sold the car but thought someone might want......asking $40 SE melb VIC. PM or mob.0411 142 120 Cheers

OK, 2 threads about the same is not needed, so better kill this thread now!

Hi All, I tried to find a version of Win7 RC to test.......PC user sept magazine had a copy but cant get a back order for it. So , is anyone using it yet and how do you find it on games and apps?

Hi All, The Whirlpool forums are the best source for comparing but I see no mention of Exetel.....$65 bucks for 25Gb peak + 60Gb offpeak + normal phone included. Static ip for serving too! There are cheaper plans out there but I have been looking at all the deals to see what I will do next. I'm on Internode now and been faily happy.......but times are a changing! Hope this helps!

Hi All, For sale is a R31 1989 TI Auto White 4 door No Reg All working parts, probably some spares and R31 Gregory's manual! THE GOOD KYB Shocks and Prof. lowered and stiffer King Springs (legal) 240K kms Alarm TI rims with GOOD tyres Auto in perf cond (no slips) good interior The BAD Rust on bottom pass side boot corner Front bumper cracked and rear small dent Paint faded engine needs a tune $500 the lot as the suspension cost me more than that and the tyres are RW If no takers, I will strip Individually and scrap the rest......If any interest, I will provide a photo by PM Contact 0411142120 THX

Hi All, I got a Stag S2....it has oval vents BUT they don"t pop out. Does the top surround plate do the same? Thanks in advance, John C.

Hi All, If you have a "gas" type MIG welder, I use 316 stainless steel 0.8mm wire with BOC light52 argo mix. This gas is really used for mild steel light sections but as long as you have Pickling paste (AKA acid), It cleans up a treat! I do a few hand rails and I used to use 2.5mm 316 stainless steel electrodes. I find that the MIG is faster and easier to clean up but if your joints are tight, electrodes do a pretty good job as well. My 2 cents worth, Cheers, JC

I did d-load the only one that related to it (Pareto AV) BUT Its a bit sus, there are a few "Antivirus tools" that you have to pay for or they can be a nasty waste of time...they cause just as much problems as the original! But thx for checking! JC

Hi All, Been downloading stuff from the internet, you know a few dodgy sites from my backup PC............ Transfered the "stuff" to my good comp and get this message from CA anti-virus .. drive: X desktop.ini ---- hamweg This continues to pop up every 10 secs and drives me insane because it cant be deleted. So I put in my second USB and transfer the same file and get the same message........ So I do searches on google and other people come up with the same problem but no solutions!!!!!! Scan the HDD with CA...nothin Tried formating both...nothin Tried deleting partition....can't Tried on Ubuntu OS to delete file and can delete, BUT as soon as swap to WinDoze, back again..... Tried loading Unbuntu OS on USB over the top and then re-write back with FAT32 again.....still there! BEST tool on the net and it's FREE is Ultimate Boot CD 4 Win! Download this all-in-one Wonder CD and fix this F^CK3R for good! follow the instructions on how to make the cd and many other problems can be solved with this gem...... Scan your harddrive/s with all the antivirus tools and then delete the files in "RECYCLER"(hidden file), not the recycle bin. I thought this would come in handy as NO ONE has come up with a solution and I have spent DAYS trying to get rid of this piece of CARP! I hope you dont this this BUT if you do, try as per instructions or drop me a PM and If see if I can help. Best Easter Wishes to all, JC

Hi All, For sale is a R31 1989 TI Auto White 4 door with Reg.....for the moment! THE GOOD KYB Shocks and Prof. lowered and stiffer King Springs (legal) 1.5 YR old from Advantage suspension Hayman Reece towbar 240K kms Alarm 10 stacker CD TI rims with GOOD tyres Auto in perf cond (no slips) The BAD Rust on bottom pass side boot corner Front bumper cracked and rear small dent Paint faded engine needs a tune $1500 firm as is or will dismantle once the rego runs out Please PM me but if urgent ring 0411 142 120

Hi RB, Where abouts are you located....Melb? If so, Got Standard Stagea Rims with Yokahama AAVAN 0-041.... 205-55-16"" Reason to swap will be to correct the speedo. BTW.......The "old R31" will be retiring very soon........if anyone is interested? PM if ya wanna swap. L8r. John C

Hi MLR, I have made a wheel clamp for my trailer, so it couldn't be towed, If you want, I will make a drawing so it will be handy for anyone else who's thinking for the "ultimate" stopper........except for tray trucks of course! cheers John C.

Hi All, I need a tow bar for Series 2 (1998) Stagea. I've looked under the hatch area and theres plenty of room underneath but I dont know the mounting points.I have a "Dayz" body kit on it and dont know if it will be a problem. If "someone" has one a genuine one I can copy, I pay them for there time if no-one has! Thanks in Advance, John C

Thx Bluey for your welcome. I went through all the forum site looking at all the info that others have posted......... It would take years to absorb it ALL. suppose thats what helping is all about! I will post a photo of my new car after i wash it. Take care all, JC.

Hi All, Generally an arc welder (stick) gives more penetration due to the amout of heat it produces.....generally welding materials over 2mm with 2.5mm rods and over where heat and distortion arn't much of an issue. You can weld Cast/mild steel and stainless. A mig welder generally uses less heat thus thinner materials can be welded ....0.8mm to 6mm in mild/stainless steel and Aluminium. Also the best for process work as it is the fastest way to weld! A TIG gives you the best control over heat and distortion for very light materials 0.4 to whatever and can weld cast/mild/stainless steel and Aluminium. In a nutshell, You know what you are doing the most of, and each has the strengths and weaknesses. A bit of info but not a lot of decision! I've got a MIG and and ARC cos I use both but I cant justify a TIG for maybe such a small amount of work I "may" do. Cheers JC

Hi All, Better late than never, Ive been reading this forum site for a while now, and said like most of us.......I'll join later........ Well after JUST buying my series 2 stagea and reading all about them here ......about time huh! A litttle history about me Im a 42 old hoon. Owned a 240K-GT,240Z, R30 hatch and currently a R31 and the new baby. Im a boilermaker by trade so if I can see it, I can make it and worked on computers for 6 years. Short and sweet........So If i can help, Its payback time. cheers, JC