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R33_Dude

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Everything posted by R33_Dude

  1. Would love to pick up any of them (in particular an MR2). Decent ones though seem to be few and far between. That said if anyone comes across a cheapy in good mechanical order (body can get damned considering what I am about to do with it) feel free to PM me.
  2. I believe the 370z has more power but the '34 will be quicker in a straight line and once you reach corners. Also twhile the 370z is a touch lighter (1466 compared to 1540, 84kgs difference) but the '34s power is vastly underrated from factory. Plus who keeps one standard? In terms of value per dollar the R34 GTR wins hands down - particularly now they are getting cheaper. In terms of outright power? Who knows until we strap the two cars down on a dyno one after the other and compare. I doubt theres much in it. The R34 is (in my opinion) better looking aesthetically and it has AWD and more street cred than you can poke a stick at. I would go the R34 GTR.
  3. I have actually... The only real turn off for me is the effort required to perform the conversion. Finding an early commie is easy, finding an LS1 with looms, ecu etc in Tasmania? Difficult.
  4. I will investigate this further. Cheers.
  5. WANTED TO BUY Any R32 or R33 two or four door turbo in a damaged body condition for a project car. That is dings, dents, scratches, tears, faded paint, peeling paint, no paint, missing bumpers and the like. Stock mags or even steelies are fine. Cars with structural damage i.e. bent chassis will not be considered. Must be mechanically strong. That means engine, drivetrain, suspension. Exhaust can be a dodgy - will be one of the first things I replace. Tyres can be average I will definitely replace these as well. Average kilometres is fine (150,000-ish) but will certainly consider anything with more or less. Manual or Auto - I am unphased. May also consider any other turbo import. I have particular preferences for Z31/32 300zx's, S13 Silvias, 180sx's, and Soarers. This may be strange sounding given the previous list but would also consider a pre 1990 civic (I have a H22A that needs a new home). I am located in Tasmania. HOWEVER I WILL TRAVEL INTERSTATE FOR THE RIGHT VEHICLE! The best way to contact me is probably via these boards (pm or post in this thread). Photos are a must, particularly for interstate cars, as I am busy with both a university summer course and work so we may as well not waste anyone's time. Will consider virtually anything that doesn't have engine damage. email any photos to: [email protected] or post here. Cheers, Claye
  6. I just checked out My105.com, there seems to be a few good deals! I was under the impression the race only imports couldn't be driven on a public road though.
  7. Thanks for the suggestions. Like I said I just want to get out and have fun in a manner thats not going to result in losing more points. I will check that site out.
  8. At the moment I am tossing up buying another car for track use either - mostly circuit track days. It needs to be street legal (as it will be driven to events) but won't be used on the street as such. I am wanting to do this on the cheap (i.e. less than $10,000) and not for quick times - just for fun. All in all I am after some unbiased opinions. I really just want a bit (a lot) of speed, fun, and a bit of a hole to throw my money in. So I am considering (and stay with me on some of these options): R31, 4 door, 3.0 with a turbo conversion (I have some VL turbo pieces), good tyres and sorted suspension. A late model XF (stay with me guys...) with either a rebuilt head and stage 1 snort turbo kit or a 351 plus tyres and suspension. A lotus clubman replica, I can get all the parts cheap and would use a cheap late model four cylinder - problem is it takes time to build and really I want to just get out there. or An early CA18DET Silvia (can easily be picked up for under 10,000) plus appropriate modification. Any thoughts or suggestions? I have no particular brand loyalty - I am more interested in an effective, rounded package. At the moment I am leaning towards the '31 - there is plenty of parts available and there is always the option to go a RB30/25 much further down the track. That said the XF idea appeals to me because it will be such a cheap undertaking. The clubman due to its effectiveness and the silvia because its a rounded package. Ideas? Suggestions?
  9. Would you sell minus the cd player, speakers, subs and amp?
  10. Well I wave to other skyline drivers, and sometimes I get a response in the '33. When I have driven hot rods/muscle cars when I wave to other drivers I get a response just about every single time. Its just a culture difference. To the second thing that has come up in this thread (RX7's), I have owned a series 2 for a lengthy period of time and driven an FC turbo extensively. In their terms of ownership both needed engine rebuilds (within 50,000kms of purchase) and I knew their history. Liked the sound and the power delivery. Disliked the community and reliability. To those that say they can be consistently reliable, well the rule of thumb is a rotary needs a rebuild twice as often as a piston engine. I'm not picking a fight its just the truth - I have nothing against rotary powered cars. Regardless, a true automotive performance enthusiast likes all cars no matter what the make or model as long as it delivers the goods where it counts - on the road.
  11. My family have done a lot of work with Corvette's Queensland (or Performax as they are known now) who do plenty of left to right conversions from everything form corvettes to mustangs to vipers to hummers. To have a professional finish to the entire process and by that I mean factory finish almost all the parts of the dash need to be remoulded in automotive grade plastics, that includes moulds, injection, heating, and cooling to exact temperatures before fitment can occur. Then the old dash needs to be removed, wiring changed, steering rack modified, in some cases suspension and other components need to be changed. Complying 100% to ADR's means a lot of the american kit needs to be binned as well. Add in switching over to different dashes, possibly different seats if the drivers seats are different, changing over the pedal sets and having certification for every step of the process (for instance you need Australian certification to engineer seatbelt replacements). Add on to this that the customer expects the car to act like a showroom model without fault possibly for up to 200,000 kilometres plus.... Theres a lot of work to be done plus plenty I have no idea about. Oh and an engineer needs to be involved just about every step along the way plus some outside specialists... It all adds up.
  12. 93 R33 GTS The bad: Turning circle is the same as the moon I get booked essentially for being in a skyline Oh and the armrest/cover for the centre console broke and squeeks all the time. Fixed in ten seconds with a safety pin. Thats about it. My cars mint otherwise, don't seem to have any other issues that others do.
  13. Yummy. I would be taking to that engine bay with screwdrivers and ratchets though - I hate the Nissan engine covers and you have to remove them anyway to do any real work. And its not like they do anything in particular. Good buy anyhow.
  14. Trust me when I say the struts can be bouht quite cheaply (roughly $40 each) from any supercheap/autobarn/bursons store. If they can't find the strut your after "because its an import and we don't keep that information" measure the diameter of the black rod, the fully opened length and the fully closed length (nomally the length of the largest tube plus the plastic bit that connects to your bonnet). With those measurements they should be able to come up with a match. Stay away from wrecked cars - you have no idea how old/worn the struts are in those. Reconditioning is not as good as replacing in my opinion and its not that expensive to replace them.
  15. Bumpity... Is now on ebay. Price remains similar, plenty of new pics. Has to be gone by next week/early week after
  16. FINAL PRICE DROP ANY OFFERS ABOVE $9000 This is it, last attempt to sell. It needs to be gone in a week, I have no garage space for the GTR that's coming.
  17. Still for sale. Any offers around $10,000?
  18. PRICE DROP TO $10,000 Has to go in the next two week, all offers/swaps+cash adjustment will be considered
  19. Bumpity. Still for sale. Registered for a further six months. If it doesn't sell in three/four weeks I am keeping it.
  20. Well after all the work I put into it to put it back on the road its going again. I have been offered an amazing project car that I would be stupid to refuse. That means a few things have to go. So here goes. 1993 R33 Series 1 GTS 25. 114,000 Kilometres, verified. Has had 100,000 kilometre service just before the 100k mark. Auto. Sunroof. Floor mats. Sony GTX-100 CD player with stock speakers. All Japanese logbooks, manuals etc. Australian translated logbooks and manuals. Always serviced at 5000km intervals with Ryco filters and high quality oil. Serviced 500km ago. New plugs. New air filter. Nolathane suspension bushes. Japanese emergency flare (wtf...) Completely stock in every way, well looked after and constantly babied. Interior is very good, apart from usual problem spots (steering wheel is a tad worn, that black coating on arm rest and centre console has very slightly peeled) and will post up photos later on. Was damaged earlier this year but it was fully repaired by an extremely competent engineer and panelbeater with brand new Nissan parts, fully roadworthied, structurally inspected and registered. Other than that the paint is in generally good condition for a 15 year old car, slight shopping trolley/door mark on passengers side. Full security check details available. For images and full story with regards to the repair job and photos from when it was finished: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ra...wd-t236601.html Located in Hobart but I travel between Hobart, Launceston and Burnie fairly frequently. Price: $10,500 ONO. Reasonable offers accepted. Call Clayton on 0400 796 308.
  21. Well I have been offered an R32 GTR at a price I couldn't refuse. Low k's, I know the current owner and he's no idiot, stock as can be. Basically its the project car I have been looking for and if it falls through I will finish building my XB GT. I will post up some pics once I pick it up. So my 33 is up for sale, if it sells it will be a bit sad (considering the amount of effort I have put into getting it back on the road), but so be it. Link in sig.
  22. If I am honest its more of an "if it sells so be it" kind of situation as I would be happy to keep it as my daily driver. I have been offered a project car I can't refuse and so I am selling a few of my possessions in order to pay for it. So here goes. 1993 R33 Series 1 GTS 25. 114,000 Kilometres, verified. Has had 100,000 kilometre service just before the 100k mark. Auto. Sunroof. Floor mats. Sony GTX-100 CD player with stock speakers. All Japanese logbooks, manuals etc. Australian translated logbooks and manuals. Always serviced at 5000km intervals with Ryco filters and high quality oil. Serviced 500km ago. New plugs. New air filter. Nolathane suspension bushes. Japanese emergency flare (wtf...) Completely stock in every way, well looked after and constantly babied. Interior is very good, apart from usual problem spots (steering wheel is a tad worn, that black coating on arm rest and centre console has very slightly peeled) and will post up photos later on. Was damaged earlier this year but it was fully repaired by an extremely competent engineer and panelbeater with brand new Nissan parts, fully roadworthied, structurally inspected and registered. Other than that the paint is in generally good condition for a 15 year old car, slight shopping trolley/door mark on passengers side. Full security check details available. For images of the repair job: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ra...wd-t236601.html Images of it now: Car is located in Hobart, Tasmania but I can organise for the car to be sent just about anywhere at buyers expense. Can send to most of Victoria just about for free (thanks to work contacts). Price: $10,500 ONO. Amazingly original car. All reasonable offers will be considered. Call Clayton on 0400 796 308 any time. Will update with more photos of interior and engine bay tommorrow or any other pics as well upon request.
  23. Spotto'd a gold R32 a Blue (I think) R32 GT-R and my R33 at the traffic lights on davey street hobart. Made my night guys you were quite friendly Also spotto'd a white R33 near Mures restauraunt. Looked very clean.
  24. My car is back on the road! At first we were worried because the new panels look so much nicer than the old ones but after a good quality polish and several waxes the rest of the car finally looked good. The repaired side, I am still waiting on my fuel filler cap lid thing: Polished up nicely: (ignore the old man, he is just trying to get in on a photo opportunity ) Back right hand corner is now dead straight: Back quarter lookin gooooood: So happy to be back in a real car that Pulsar was beginning to get on my nerves. I owe several people many beers, namely my father, my uncle and any other family members that helped by keeping me driving in the mean time. To those that helped, cheers and I'll see you all on the road.
  25. If anyone wants anything from Whiteline Suspension, Brembo Brakes, DBA Rotors, K and N, the entire Rocket Industries catalog or just about any performance brand you care to name, shoot me a PM. I can get a hold of just about anything through family and business contacts. I can nearly guarantee I can get it cheaper than anyone else (including postage), the downside is that sometimes parts take a bit longer to arrive through me (an average of two weeks depending on location) and I need time to look up the part and call the supplier. Basically PM me for bits.
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