ELFGT350
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Posts posted by ELFGT350
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19 hours ago, carnoobb said:
Hi everyone,
Recently got handed down a 2004 Skyline 350GT Coupe. I would like to change the wheels as the previous owner installed some weird ones. The current ones are 215/45ZR18, unsure of the offset, and sit pretty deep in. Would like to increase the ground clearance slightly as well as I need to get it roadworthy standard, currently sitting at 90mm. Was thinking that maybe I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone by getting new wheels.
Pictures of current wheels: https://imgur.com/bg1QMIu
Any recommendations for the types of wheels I should be on the lookout for? Like the maximum and minimum offset, sidewall height, width, etc.
Sorry in advance if I'm noob, I do not know much about cars other than how to change the oil, a blown tyre and brakepads....
Hi and best of luck with your car. Its a bit hard to tell how low the car is all round from that pic or if its been lowered or not. 90mm is a bit low on the front apron but it depends on the shocks & springs condition & whether or not its been lowered. Going to 19” wheels will give you 15-20mm depending on rubber but you might need new shocks. Mine -2005 are weeping fluid slightly but have lasted 19years!!. So if yours are original they need replacing anyway if they havent been touched before.
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41 minutes ago, carnoobb said:
Hi everyone,
Recently got handed down a 2004 Skyline 350GT Coupe. I would like to change the wheels as the previous owner installed some weird ones. The current ones are 215/45ZR18, unsure of the offset, and sit pretty deep in. Would like to increase the ground clearance slightly as well as I need to get it roadworthy standard, currently sitting at 90mm. Was thinking that maybe I could kill 2 birds with 1 stone by getting new wheels.
Pictures of current wheels: https://imgur.com/bg1QMIu
Any recommendations for the types of wheels I should be on the lookout for? Like the maximum and minimum offset, sidewall height, width, etc.
Sorry in advance if I'm noob, I do not know much about cars other than how to change the oil, a blown tyre and brakepads....
Hi and best of luck with your car. Its a bit hard to tell how low the car is all round from that pic or if its been lowered or not. 90mm is a bit low on the front apron but it depends on the shocks & springs condition & whether or not its been lowered. Going to 19” wheels will give you 15-20mm depending on rubber but you might need new shocks. Mine -2005 are weeping fluid slightly but have lasted 19years!!. So if yours are original they need replacing anyway if they havent been touched before.
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18 hours ago, ELFGT350 said:
@Toblerone - As mentioned previously I have an Australian Clutch Services - “Extreme” heavy duty single mass clutch installed in my GT350 since May & it is just fine. I got actually 3 different quotes for both single/ dual mass and all were very similar from 2200 to 2800. The Exedy Dual mass was slightly more expensive.
I don’t think the GT370 should be much different so 4k seems a bit much. I did not like my installers as I had too many delays/dramas but they were 2200.
I would strongly recommend Michael from Revolution Autogroup at Revesby as he knows these cars better than anyone 02 9773 1002 or 0404 167 230
he will probably recommend the Exedy Dual Mass which was 2800 incl gst but that was for a 350gt. Hope it helps. Cheers ElieLol Yes Apologies it s/be 350GT & 370GT - I already made that mistake browsing & got Mustangs & other cars!. But I think you kniw what I mean!
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@Toblerone - As mentioned previously I have an Australian Clutch Services - “Extreme” heavy duty single mass clutch installed in my GT350 since May & it is just fine. I got actually 3 different quotes for both single/ dual mass and all were very similar from 2200 to 2800. The Exedy Dual mass was slightly more expensive.
I don’t think the GT370 should be much different so 4k seems a bit much. I did not like my installers as I had too many delays/dramas but they were 2200.
I would strongly recommend Michael from Revolution Autogroup at Revesby as he knows these cars better than anyone 02 9773 1002 or 0404 167 230
he will probably recommend the Exedy Dual Mass which was 2800 incl gst but that was for a 350gt. Hope it helps. Cheers Elie -
On 10/5/2023 at 6:05 PM, ELFGT350 said:
Good on ya. I think I maybe due for mine soon. Ive done inner lower control bushes last year. It would be good to know how much each of these costs.
nice car!
2 minutes ago, 00.37_ said:Thanks!
Including labor, it cost me around 15k.
Most of it was taken up by wheels (~4.2k), tyres (~2k), and coils (~2.7k).
Arms (~1k), braces (~1k), swaybars, endlinks & bushings (~750), rotors (~500), lines (~500), labor (~3k).
Will and Richard did the work from Proworks Automotive NSW.
Looking into doing the exhaust (catback + hfc + header) next, but running into compatibility problems with ride height, and the 4was module stuck to the back of the diff.
If you're after specific part numbers feel free to shoot me a message
Wow some serious work there. I guess there were some upgraded parts in all that.
mines a 350 so I don’t know how compatible they are. But was just after an indication at this stage. My whole car is not worth that much.
cheers
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27 minutes ago, 00.37_ said:
After 2 years of waiting and stockpiling parts, redid most of the suspension setup (Coils, arms, braces, swaybars, endlinks, bushings, wheels, tyres, rotors, lines, pads) for the skyline coupe
Went out and got some photos.
Good on ya. I think I maybe due for mine soon. Ive done inner lower control bushes last year. It would be good to know how much each of these costs.
nice car!
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UPDATE: The little knocking was the Engine Mounts!. Got No idea why one engine mount was nearly all the way loose! & other half way!!. Mechanic said he “did not touch them”. Bit of lock tight & tension & bobs your uncle!.
The car now drives with no noises what so ever & smooth as .( other than slight CV/suspension creek that was there before). Very little to no chatter -same or less than original clutch -but as I said above its very early. This clutch holds speed (coasts) well under 60 and the original DM better above 80. You have to adjust driving with lighter throttle on SM & holding it longer on highway speeds.
Mine was done at Oyaji Motorsports & I would NOT recommend them to anyone ATM. Maurice is in Japan & only have fabricator doing ALL mechanic work, the very little time they are open. I did not know any of this when Maurice quoted!. me. If he’d told me any of this No Way would I have gone there.
They f/d up bleeding the system taking a whole day & half!!. When I told them where the problem must be & was! The bolt below the master was not done up properly! (On them). Then they brushed me twice - saying you need to get familiar with new clutch for weeks /month . Luckily only the second week in I told them something is seriously going wrong & literally had to get the installer in the car again after 10min on the hoist all became obvious!!!..-
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Hi sonicii, yes thats what I thought and even my brother who’s a fitter just said today anything can be machined.so I’ll edit my pt7.
I’m still familiarising myself with it and must confess its a little odd getting the tiny “knock” sounds randomly, mostly cornering. -
After 186k, slipping clutch( occasional sticking pedal from 160k) I finally changed my clutch to ACS Extreme HD Single Mass. Only driven today but, can say:-
1. no noise diff or chatter at idle (if anything prob less chatter)
2. Occasional light clutter noise on first release. Not always
3.Occasionally light low speed lash, noise, through drivetrain whilst upshifting in corners.(again not always maybe different revs gear change)
4. Slightly quicker (maybe .05/s more responsive upshifts). Generally crisper feel.
5. In gear acceleration from lower revs a bit better.
6. Slightly different noise through the transmission during gear changes both up / down. Not more or less just different.
7. you can service this flywheel/ replace clutch plate - You cannot do this on Dual mass OEM flywheel -such a shame for $2.5k unit. Good HD Single mass is still over 2.1k fitted but many suppliers are quoting the same for both HD’s. Some more for dual.
I only went this way as I think it would improve response on an old engine with a slightly lighter flywheel & so far it feels that way. My car still has a great deal of torque with the exhaust and chip on the timing & having a solid flywheel feels right for it.
Its obviously too early to get a full judgement. So hopefully I’m not spewing in a years time.But the Heavy duty flywheel SM is not too much lighter than the dual and my understanding is the new clutch plate on the SM has more spring & material for dampening to compensate for the lighter solid mass. (not fully obviously).
Hopefully this helps. Will keep you posted if things change.
cheers
Elie
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If it was “leaking from a small hole”..why didn’t your mechanic seal that ???.
You need to see another mechanic. One thing at a time. If you have leaks they need to be fixed. If the radiator hose/s are no good -replace it!. Then check your oil - if its milky/got water in it, you’ve probably got a blown head gasket.
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On 19/11/2022 at 4:40 PM, Jack151 said:
Hi
I was looking at buying a 2004 Nissan skyline 350gt V35 Auto with 115,000km
Supposedly imported back in 2013 by a small import business there’s only been 1 owner
also would I have to get engine parts from Japan or can you use all parts from the 350z
Thanks
Ps This Forum rocks
Ive had my 05, GT350 premium for 15 years!. And have had little problem with it. My regular mechanic does the servicing. The common issues with these cars are:-
1. Door locks. Nissan ones don’t last so an aftermarket universal brand are much stronger.
2. The clock spring (behind steering wheel).Need to replace with a genuine replacement.
3. Airbag warning light- easily reset with ignition procedure. But you need to find out whats causing the problems.(Usually something to do with seat wiring or other electrical problem.Cuong (Michael) at Revolution Electronics in Revesby, Sydney, knows these cars better than anyone. He done the door locks & clock spring, he even replaced the radio tuner the compliers put in with a better one when I first got it. He does everything in Minutes- its unbelievable how quick he is and he is very reasonable.
Other than these Ive had no other issues other than ones I cause myself such as not seeing/ removing the dirt off the tray under radiator which killed it!. I used Alexandria Radiators here in Syd as they made the only good replica at the time(fans too) for a very reasonable price. Genuine used to be 1600+ dont know now maybe cheaper..good luck hope you get a decent one
cheers
elie
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On 08/06/2022 at 6:02 PM, sonicii said:
It will only work if the fault that caused the light is no longer occurring. This process doesn't actually fix anything, it just clears the current SRS codes. If the fault still exists, it will just trigger the code again when the ignition is turned on next.
Yeah I know. So far so good though..
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On 08/06/2022 at 5:47 PM, sonicii said:
it is in the FSM..
I tried this at least once & it usually works, but the last time it didn't. Thats why I tried the method above. I've never seen this before..Cheers
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On 7/6/2022 at 3:08 PM, niZmO_Man said:
how the hell do you discover something like that? Maybe the person who programmed it put it in a tech bulletin somewher
Yeah, possibly I read it somewhere years ago. But this time I just tried it without checking or looking. Also after you do these resets heaps of times you try anything!. A couple of sites do the 3sec then 2sec wait in the off position, so to me it just made sense to go that one step further!.
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Guys; having run into this problem again many years after I first encountered I found one method that absolutely works every time whether its the slow flashing light or the fast flashing light on the V35 Airbag warning light.
1. Turn the key to the On position (do not start), wait for the Airbag light to go off(7 sec). Turn the key to the Off position within a second of the Airbag light going off. (& before it flashes).
Wait 4 seconds then turn the key to On as above.
2. Repeat the above 3 times - ie total of 4 times.
3. After the 4th time -when you turn the key to the Off position Wait 3 sec then turn the key On again. Wait for the light to go out. Then switch Off
4. Wait only 2 sec then turn On again. Wait for the light to go out. Then switch off.
5. Wait only 1 sec. Turn On again. Wait for the light to go out. Turn the car off. Remove key from the ignition. Then put the keys back in and start the car.
I have used the other 2 methods listed on this forum and Sometimes they work sometimes they don't. This one works without fail.
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The most efficient way to drive these cars (as with most cars), IS to get them to 60 pretty quick and just use the upper gear to keep them coasting efficiently. Keeping the car in the highest possible gear - without the need to drop back often is the key to being efficient. Nannying it does not work!. If you watch the “Leaf” in the fuel consumption gauge you will see this. When I first got mine I was often averaging over 9klm/l in the city when traffic was less and I would keep momentum even in corners using 3rd at 30kph. Thats the fun of a manual even spirited driving is better for consumption. Constant slowing or accelerating from low speed under 30kph is where you burn the most fuel, because you are moving 1.6tonne from the most inefficient engine speeds.
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On 27/4/2022 at 11:15 AM, Vee37 said:
On my previous car (2003 350GT), I found that the car had noticeable better fuel economy if i kept around 80KM/h. If I cruised above that, the economy went down. At best, I think I was able to get it down to the mid to high 8l/100km (12.5km/l which included some 60kim/h to get to the highway).
Another thing I noticed, was that my fuel economy dropped at one point for some unknown reason. But, a few weeks later, one of my ignition coil started to fail (when cold). After I replaced two of them (another was heading out), my fuel economy got better again.
Now with my 370GT, I have to be very careful, and the best I have seen thus far (once, for a very short length of time at the end of a freeway run, with some city driving) is around 12.4km/l (ie 8.0l/100km, driving at 100 km/h) but usually its closer to 7km/l (14l/100km) around the city (currently siting on 6.7km/100km ie 15l/100kim all city traffic driving).
Not absolutely sure if it truly made the difference, but the best amount was when I accidentally filled up using 95octane, and then added an octane booster when I realised my mistake. Its actually an injector cleaner, but the reviews talked about octane boost. And maybe I got some placebo effect and/or drove more carefully/gingerly after reading the reviews or because I was on 95.
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/rislone-high-performance-injector-cleaner---177ml/290781.html
Your numbers are bang on the mark for the 350gt. Syd traffic has gotten so bad now that its impossible to get near those numbers nowadays- especially with the mileage mine has done now. Question : Is yours an Auto or Manual?
Nissan say the 370 is slightly better on fuel consumption because of variable valve timing on both inlet/out can control the duration better. But not surprised given that real world driving is the real test.!. Also manual or Auto?
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On 18/4/2022 at 3:03 PM, sonicii said:
I bought my 05 6MT sedan back in 2011 and it has consistently returned between 10.5 and 11L/100km in the city and around 7.5L/100km on the highway (no idea what that is in km/l), hasn't really changed much at all over the last 11 years, has over 170,000km on it now. Always used 98RON since the handbook specifies 96, although I suspect that may just be what they have in Japan. Definitely 80L tank, I have some of the original brochures from Japan and they all say 80L.
Hi Sonicii, thats really good thats 9.09 to 9.52 klm/l city and 13.3klm/L highway. Its slightly better than the best I got on average. I did these numbers numbers sometimes but not often.
Forgot to mention mine came with Impul chip & fujitsubi exhaust so that may account for the tiny difference. Also depends on how much mixed conditions- traffic/open rd driving. I have a little more pull than standard car.
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I know this is way down the track- Im not even sure if I posted before, but this may help any new comers because I’m shocked at how little some guys know about their cars when they buy them.
1. Car is designed for 95 Octane Only/ Or Above. I only run 98 and you do notice a small difference both in Mileage about 8% & bit better response. Running 91 could ruin your engine DONT do it.
2. The fuel tank is 80litres NOT 65 or 70. I have filled over 75litres or more when pushed. The fuel consumption meter is excellent & I always know down to the last l exactly whats going into the car (basic maths).
3. When the car was fairly new 14,000-80,000klm. I regularly got 8.5 to 8.8 klm per Litre in the city. On the highway I regularly got 12.25-12.75klm/L on the highway. I did Syd/Mel 834klm on 69.34l. 12 yrs later & over 150,000 the average is about 7.5-7.7klm/l city and about 11.5 on the highway
Mine is a 2005 series 2, 6 speed manual. (Autos are very similar Im told)
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@Nicko_2010 Thats not necessarily anything to do with under the seats. It could be any number if sensor or as you say wire issues. Mine was the clock spring even though the signal was a seat belt warning light and I did all the checks before I even took it to a mechanic. Unfortunately you need someone with V35 diagnostics which will tell you exactly where the fault is. Some people are quoting $150 just to do that my guy charged me alot less.
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Blade511- Your compliers should NOT keep anything from your car - ITS YOURS. You should demand and get it back- its nothing short of theft!. I have no idea why anyone would touch ballast other than to steal it (which is usually a big job to remove anyway). Usually the wiring is disconnected from behind the headlights & somewhere in the engine bay/wheel arch, the they just modify a bracket / wire for standard globes!.Noone should be touching your ballasts!. They are about 750new (if you can find one). I know because I had to change one ($220gen 2nd hand one). I was lucky I had a friend comply it and the compliers talked him /me through every detail, they kindly bundled the wiring and bulbs in the Glove box. I was very lucky my car still has the jap warranty card for the impul chip and fujitsubu exhaust, spare key + vallet key. If anyone took anything from my car They would be very very sorry..!. You know the car has it- go there & get it!
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Blade511- Your compliers should NOT keep anything from your car - ITS YOURS. You should demand and get it back- its nothing short of theft!. I have no idea why anyone would touch ballast other than to steal it (which is usually a big job to remove anyway). Usually the wiring is disconnected from behind the headlights & somewhere in the engine bay/wheel arch, the they just modify a bracket / wire for standard globes!.Noone should be touching your ballasts!. They are about 750new (if you can find one). I know because I had to change one ($220gen 2nd hand one). I was lucky I had a friend comply it and the compliers talked him /me through every detail, they kindly bundled the wiring and bulbs in the Glove box. I was very lucky my car still has the jap warranty card for the impul chip and fujitsubu exhaust, spare key + vallet key. If anyone took anything from my car They would be very very sorry..!. You know the car has it- go there & get it!
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Welcome blade. I dont know if its changed but my HID on my V35 S2 2005 were disconnected on compliance (2007) & I had to refit them. It had something to do with matching the right Aust standard which wasn't available at that time- I would think it should be ok now. I cant be sure for the Stagea but should be very similar. On the V35 it wasn't that hard to put back- make sure the compliers give you the wiring and the HID fitting or get them to fit after its registered - its perfectly legal to have them- just the compliance
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Welcome blade. I dont know if its changed but my HID on my V35 S2 2005 were disconnected on compliance (2007) & I had to refit them. It had something to do with matching the right Aust standard which wasn't available at that time- I would think it should be ok now. I cant be sure for the Stagea but should be very similar. On the V35 it wasn't that hard to put back- make sure the compliers give you the wiring and the HID fitting or get them to fit after its registered - its perfectly legal to have them- just the compliance
Newbies
in VQ Series - V35, V36 & Infiniti
Posted
Im sure they do because some shops asked to fit exactly that on mine, but I don’t know the clearances on your car or if its been lowered.
Your best best is to take it to a wheel & tyre shop (or try asking them) if you can get it registered as it is they will have all the answers. If you do go bigger just remember your speedo will become understated - this is why I won’t run different sizes to oem (that & I dont like to overload steering/ joints etc- even if it is very minor increase). You can change the adaptor on the speedo cable to the gearbox to get the speedo right too. Just depends on what you got planned for it. If you’re happy to leave it sitting down and just run around with bigger wheels assuming they fit / not bottom out- its not a problem at all.