08yannch

what doesn't a ported box sound lowered most of the time because a properly tuned port will increases efficiency? and head units i guess the more expensive one will sound better but cant u do alot of the tuning of the amp (if u get a good one) like i have a pioneer head unit got it on sale for $200 and it had all the pre outs at like 4v or something and u can set high pass and the rest, the head unit it accepts all usb devises and if i was to get something similar in alpine i would be looking at $450 and considering the goal was to build a audio system for 1G the $200 could be re directed to other areas. ok now back to my system im pretty much sold on alpine type R sub BUT usa alpine have the new type R's they are over all better and also checking prices about $200 cheaper, but shipping is like $150 so i really dont want a old type R and i dont want to ship a sub over from the states for $50 saving. so any subs i should be looking at.

can u guys remember the story about the idiot punk kids that were trying to brake into shops n stuff and one guy that was going 2 hold up a bank and walked into a glass door. what dumb asses the funny thing is the po po still cant catch them. so who is more retarded these punk kids or the incompetent police that cant catch them. and the guy that got caught drink driving twice in the same night... isn't drink driving a hoon offense so how was he driving a car? did he get another car ? and who saw the latest story about those young punk ass kids that were harassing the old retirees. shame and the sad thing it the po po will do nothing until one of the old guys beats down on the fags. to any of the old guys, if u are reading this dont wast ur time, just save up some money and pay some bikers to teach them a lesson 4 u

i saw this yesterday and at first i was angry then i saw the video and then i then i when to SAU to look for a thread about this with a epic amount of reply's but there was nothing here *shocked. im disappointed in everybody on SAU were is ur anger towards the media and police hay that looked like a pretty good cruise map. i might go down to ch7 to get a copy

well i think i understand subs and amps somewhat. im budgeting the $550 on sub and amp with every think else not being counted. the projects going to be on hold for about a week just because i dont have time but after that it should be full steam ahead. im going to be doing a DIY on the sub box and dependent on how it turns out may even make a couple more because the way im planning on making the box im going the have to make a negative so replicating the box will be easy. im going to give u guy a run down of what has been planned so far the box is going to be constructed from chopped mat fiberglass with MDF bracing, that stretchy fabric stuff and allocations for terminals, and two ball valves (i will explain this). there is a large cavity to allow air flow to the vent under the car so change in boot pressure should not be a problem. the sub is going to be flush mounted with foam tape for gaskets. the two ball valves are there so that i can purge the box with nitrogen just as a experiment, there are two reasons for this. its a sealed box so the air inside is more prone to expanding dew to temperature changes and this will probs effect audio quality so the nitrogen should stop this. also oxygen is very reactive, and the nitrogen should stop this also so if i ever take the sub out i should not get any surprises. (this is just a experiment) what has been done so far is the back half of the box area has been taped up and i have the fiberglass and resign, all i real need to do i pick a sub so i can make a MDF ring and the rest should be pretty straight forward just a little time consuming. for sub im thinking -KFC-XW1222D kenwood -CVR102 CompVR Series Kicker -SWR-1022D Alpine -TS-W258D2 Pioneer and amp -recision Response Car Amp 2x150WRMS http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...mp;SUBCATID=595

my understanding of ohms is the higher the ohm the more accurate the sound and also the higher the ohm of the sub the more power will be required from the amp to power it. correct me if im wrong. the bit i still cant get is the 2ohm 2ohm or 4ohm 4ohm thing. like does a 2 2 = 4 ohm or 2 ohm i dont know. chances are im going to go the safe route and get a 10" R type sub and for amp i was thinking of maybe a response 2ch bridgeable to 1ch 500w rms 4 ohm. so can any body help with understanding subs and what do u guys think of response amps are they any good

well im sorry if i was not clear enough. my 6x9"'s and 6.5"'s are all done and i have them running of a external amp and have had them 4 about 2yr. im looking 4 amp, and sub. i have had a look around and i think im going go with a 10" sub because of enclosure volume, cost, and power handling. now when it comes to what actual amp and sub to get im lost. my sub and amp budget is MAX $550.95 . now i have a R33 so boot space is minimal and the plan is to mount the sub to the side facing left to right. the main things that confuse me are the choice of ohm's (sub) and then how should i go about match a sub with a amp. dynamat is something i should do but if im going to im going to do it properly and this will mean my car is going to be out of action for 2 days and i really dont have the time 4 now. almost 4got music i listen to. i listen to mainly rock, metal, and tecno. im going to continue with my google research alot of good that has done me so far and thx Juz its nice to know somebody is willing to help me

they have been around 4 some time. the set of lights at the bell tower for at least a yr. imagine how much money they would make if they put some of these on reid hwy

re-build the parcel shelf with mdf and put in some 6x9"'s

hay guys i need some help im very happy with my DIY stereo install i have 2 6x9 mtx in the back with 2 6.5" splits in the front running 70w rms x4 and i think its time to get a sub just because i think it would really add to the system. im planning to make a box similar to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ma...Bo-t204315.html and they way im going to make it im probs going to get 30L so i will have the composite. what i need help with is the sub and amp. im looking to just do something that will complement my existing system i dont want the big doof doof. and i want to do it for cheap.

so how is it going? have u made any head way? this thing is going 2 be awsom. can u just imagen it in the weather

when i report to the police that my house has been egged and i give them all the details of the car and a description of the ppl that did it, nothing happens. but then when somebody hoons in my area and one person makes a call not making a official report the police call every house in the street to get info. and u may think u can just wash egg of but have u ever tried to wash egg of render. u cant it stains and u have to re paint the front of the house.

im also interested in this as i didnt even know there was a rubber seal there :s (mine is completely gone)

4 the mentally slow such as myself what ar the benefits of a mod such as this and also how much harsher will the ride be after this. im guessing this is not 4 the daily driver

when i say IR led's this is to hide the license plate by over exposing it. get a digital camera in a dark room and hold a TV remote in-front holding a button down... u will see a light that was not there b4. so IR led's because the light is not visible to the human eye but is visible 4 some digital cameras. the main problem with this is testing it may become very expensive :s but yes EMP is probs over board

im sorry 4 the little hijack but i dont want to start a new topic i have made 2 many... ok why dont were try to be more aggressive with speed cameras. first it would be interesting to know how high powered IR led's would work at hiding ur license plate from the speed camera. and just trowing it out there what about EMP ( just walk past and set of a small pulse ) owned or just throw a neodymium magnet and the ass. but it would be nice to know witch detectors work and work best

well after using i didn't develop toxic sludge but if i used it again i probably would and oil pressure dropped off allot at temp. i have no proof, im no big oil company and i cant afford to test hundreds of samples to get a definitive result not many ppl can. but the main reason i said it sucks ass it so that ppl would try alternatives because castrol is advertised heaps and ppl instantly go for it when there are better and or cheaper alternatives.

so explain why my car runs like shit when i run open dump pipe but runs tops when i put a cat on? soz 4 highjacking ur thread

get some Gulf Western oil its the best stuff out. castrol suck ass search leader lubricants there a supplier of GW

oily spark plug... sounds like the injector to me. might just need a clean

do the smart thing... tell the BF to get the f**k out and park his boat on the street and if that dont work burn the shed down with the boat in it and build a new shed problem solved. having to go into RPH at 7:30am on Tuesday grrrr i cant even get up at 8:30am so how am i meant to get up b4 7:30

think of the ppl with EV's imagine if one of the batteries exploded it would be like a nuclear chain reaction

call gulf western they will be able to help

hay so can any 1 give me a idiots guide to a shifter and shift kit. ok first i have a 33 auto 4speed and the OEM shifter has a cable facing forward and a rod going down that connects to the trans (4 selecting gears i think) my question is what is the cable 4 is it needed and if so were do i connect it. and also is it ok to replace the steel rod that connects to the trans with a cable as most after market shifters use a cable. ok the shift kit what exactly is it, can i fit it my self, and what are my options. im looking to retain the automatic shifting but be able to use it as a manual auto box and if it could have a trans brake that would just be gravy but its not a necessity.

+1 4 the rattle gun if it will fit. but the filler is probs to hard to get to with the gun. always remember to undo the filler first because what if u drain the diff and then cant get the filler off and when the rattle gun dont work i grab the longest length i can find of steel and then get the second biggest piece of steel and attach that and then i put my tire iron on the end. M=Fd more torque

i use K&N oil filters just because i tried it once it was easy to put on and take of and i never looked back. i really dont know if its better at filtering but im happy with it. altho i have heard that the system 1 oil filters can be cleaned and re used so might be worth looking into them.