08yannch

speed cameras have always been able to get the back number plate but the dont set them up that way because there easier to spot and apparently there was one on alexander dr the other day but dont know if they were testing to what

did u get her number? can i have it i have heard of these good cops to bad i have never seen any of them. so stop bragging jks (not about the above)

everytihng... dont u mean everything. ..................................................... is that enough full stops 4 u................ .....................................

its 2 expensive for any car. comprehensive for me is $2500 with a $2000 excess so i got 3rd party fire and theft 4 $600. i know ppl that drive cars from camry to subarus to comonwhores and they all have to pay a similar rate. i can under stand why ppl want these new laws put through but look i have had my skyline from the get go and i dont hoon or do anything stupid rarely i will give it some boot in 1st 2nd but thats it. to tell u the truth i drive safer than my friends that drive "slow" cars. they spin the wheels, do handbrakies drop clutch, drift around corners and ppl think import drivers are bad.

i have a R33 auto so i cant comment about the 34's but 4 me its in the center consul between the shifter and the storage area. its good because along with 2nd gear take off it also keeps the trans from going into power mode on its own witch can be a bit of a pain eg why are u shifting at 4000-5000rpm oh u when in to power mode grrrr. touch wood i have not lost traction since starting this thread so the extra psi and driving like a granny must b helping

yes i will agree with u there but the acceleration can also be good having avoided many accidents because my skyline could get away from the hazard and on the other hand the handling of my skyline has also helped me to avoid many accidents as well so P plater driving fast cars is probs a bad idea but these cars can also be a blessing in disguise its just a minority f**k it for the rest of us

really the LSD is bad i can understand if ur going around a corner on the gas but i thought ppl would get better traction in a strait line or if ur off the gas it shouldn't do anything (unless 2 way or shimmed to the point its just a lock diff)

i have had k&n with no problems all i did was go down to my local speed shop and look for the biggest 1 that would fit with out going over board then i got the guy to find that filter with the correct diameter pipe. swapped the filter on the spot it fitted and i was on my way. ppl have problems with k&n when the re oil them after cleaning they put to much oil and then u get oil on the AFM but if this happens u just spray it with AFM cleaner (u should do this at filter change any way) may i recommend a metal pod filter adapter because they dont brake i had one brake on me 4 no reason so i fixed it with super glue and drove down to auto1 got a new one and now no problems and dont 4get to make a filter bracket to secure everything down because if u dont do this u will not pass pits

so u can honestly say that u have never stopped at lights were there is oil and lost traction. or driven a auto that has hard shifted from 1st to 2nd around a corner. i know i dont drive like a spastic having never smashed in the rain and only smashed once on dry but i was not at fault. i drive with my lights on and leave extra space i just guess i take of a little 2 fast 4 my car. but thats the thing i can take of 2x faster in other cars so why do skylines seem to not like the wet (going by what other ppl are posting its not just me)

thx 4 the advice my tires call for between 38 and 44 mine were at 35 this week pumped them up 2 day because just realized (yes i know im terrible) there now at 40 and will be putting them to 45 tomorrow. and to all those saying that ppl that loose it are shit. back off its not like we try losing it. its dangerous as u will just slide across the top and have no control i saw a friend go into a tree trying to drift in the wet so thats the last thing i try to do. the areas i have problems is were there are cars that stop and weight eg lights, stop signs etc. so hmmm stuff it im going to take of super slow stuff every body behind me im going to be the old granny driver for once.

dont u have awd but ?

well 4 me i use the snow button (auto skyline) if it has just rained and i have stopped at lights or any were and am turning i will keep it in 2nd till i have stopped turning. leaving longer braking distances, take of slower and take corners slower. i also avoid all lines and arrows on the road and when i stop at lights i keep my tires of the middle of the lain as thats were all the oil is. i will still loose traction sometimes, especially at take of and i have to avoid stops on hills especially when i have to turn left or right. maybe its time to invest in some all yr round tires instead of my maxxis witch seem to never loose tread witch leads me to believe they not to good 4 gripping the road

i h8 driving in the rain high every body. im starting this thread to see how other ppl handle driving in the rain (eg driving style, routines, tire pressure, different tires, anything) and if they loose traction and what to avoid on the road.

i have changed over and it seems to shift a little faster, it all seams good only done 100km. i was looking at using the castrol transmax z my self i used it on my power steering and its all good but to do the auto i would need 2 more bottles and 4 that i was looking at spending $150 for a (in my opinion) a marginally better product V $80. because it is more compatible then the Syntrans but the previous ATF that was in there looked like crap dextron III so the Syntrans is a big step up. the auto was not playing up but it was only a matter of time. on a side note. if u only drain the pan u will only need 5L do the converter and u will need another 5L. but yes the transmax z is the mack daddy of them all but i like 2 buy aus and im cheap... thats why i have a skyline

i found a supplier in perth leader lubricants there on oxleigh dr. the guy there convinced me to try the PREMIUM GOLD but for $18 what could go wrong worst case i see is i do oil change at 2500km and doing that i still save $19 every 5000km and if im really not happy i will just try something else note* they dont cary much sougi and will not get any in unless there is a demand for it. apparently it has taken them more than a yr to move a box of the 6000. it $55 for what they have left 2-3 bottles. and while i was there i got some ATF for my auto $40 every 5L for the top spec GW so i saved $70 on that over all my wallet is happy and i will tell u how i go when i try out the new oil.

rabs_33gtst the D1 catch has a inlet and outlet u connect the outlet to the metal pipe next to the exhaust cam cover. this allows your air intake to act like a breather also plumbing it up like this keeps the car legal if u use a small air filter and vent to atmo u will not pass pits, simple. the way TR33GT-001 did it is what u should be aiming 4 or u could get a catch can with 3 ports this will allow u to connect it all up with out the need 4 T piece and TR33GT-001 again awesome job keep up the good work

wow u put alot of effort in to that DIY nice job and the Induction Box looks the shit just one thing could u plz plz post printable templates of the Induction Box so that others (me) can make it but awesome job i didnt doubt u for a second

nice job bringing up a super old thread dose_it if u want 2 talk about BOV's and flutter then go to the forced induction section this topic gets brought up weekly

*this should only be taken as a guide and if ur unshore u should let a mechanic do the job 4 u hi every body 2 day i changed my ATF (automatic transmission fluid) and at the same time do a tutorial because there is nothing on the web for changing the ATF on a skyline its easy but its always nice to see how other ppl do it. this is 4 a R33 GTS25T 1996 but im guessing that all skylines are going 2 be pretty much the same ok lets talk the sphincter of the universe ur going to need -7L of ATF and the good stuff only comes in 5L containers so ur stuck with getting 10L so im going to drain the pan again in about 20,000km and then im never touching the auto again -a good jack -old rags -a transmission funnel -a flat head screw driver -a ring spanner 19mm -a small length of rubber hose 8mm ID -at least 5L drain pan -a afternoon -plastic bag when buying ATF u will need at least a dextron III oil. the most compatible ATF is castrol transmax z. i used gulf western full synthetic which is meant to be good for any automatic trans and at $80 for 10L i was happy and its a aus company things that will make ur life easer -a oil pump it makes poring the ATF from the large containers a easy job (try and get 1 were the pump can connect direct to to 5L container) -a friend (to run the car, go through the gears on the spot while u pump ATF) -a torch i used this as i guide so have a look its a good video (not me) well i did the same as this guy but a little different when u fill the pan with new ATF over fill it a little because when u start the car to flush the torque converter all the ATF is going to go real fast and u dont want the pan to go dry and there is no way u will be able to keep up filling the pan with fresh ATF so u either stop the engine every 8sec or u over fill the pan and do it all in one hit. also if u have a friend go through the gears on the spot 4 u this will make it possible for u to pump ATF into the trans it wont do much but it will help when i disconnected the cooler i didnt use compressed air as 300ml of old oil is not going to do shit. and i also didnt know which hose the ATF was going to come out of so i just pointed both in to the pan ok when u undo the trans cooler u will not have enough hose for the ATF to go to the drain pan this is were the small piece of hose comes in. undo the lower trans hose and point it down. now connect the hose u got to the trans cooler and point it down as well. now get a plastic back and cover both hoses so that as the ATF comes out it is directed down in to the pan. easy. once u are all done idle and go through all the gears on the spot P,R,N,D,SNOW(if u have it) shut it of and check ur levels. repeat. then drive around the block and check again. give it a little gas and check again. if the last 2 times had similar levels then ur all good if not repeat all the checks until it levels out. if u have a Q's dont ask me i will not know im no mechanic and this was my first time changing the ATF so ur on ur own

i just got i knew i was missing something well i have now looked at all the GW oil and it looks like good stuff and the price also seems to be right now all i need to do is find somewhere that sells it thx 4 the help guys

just a little question about the Gulf 1 and its 10w60 viscosity. my understanding is that the 10w refers to the weight of the oil at cold start up and the 60 says to me that the gulf 1 will remain at a thicker consistency 4 longer right? (correct me if im wrong) so wouldn't it be best to have the highest possible hot weight because this will produce a higher oil pressure 4 longer increasing engine protection and oil circulation? so the gulf 1 with its 10w60 is better than a 10w40 weight oil because it can handle hotter temps and will also be better than a 20w60 because the oil will flow faster at cold start up? or am i missing something

well u could try clark rubber 4 a rubber grommet to block the hole i think malz and repco also sells Pvc valves and the grommet to fit but it will probs take some looking around. when i had to get a new one 4 my car i found the Pvc valve easy the problem was finding the rubber grommet and was looking a paying something like $50 from nissan for a $2 piece of rubber. when looking 4 a pvc valve dont tell them ur model as they will not have shit in the system so u have to look at what they have and get the closest thing possible

i use sidchrome and im very happy with it never had any problems

is that the plastic valve that goes in the cam cover. if so they have them at auto 1 and the same goes 4 the rubber grommet

put a epic bull bar on a skyline