Yeedogga

+1 Great advice.

YES! Thats the thing, it only does it when its hot- any ideas why? I want to run it out at WSID tonight but I am cautious if the pump is on its way out...

+1 You may not get out of it, and there is a chance you wont, but contact a lawyer and let them advise you of what you should do. The fact is it is a relatively minor offence, the court is not going to waste any time watching videos or any crap like that. Forget it, they are not really interested in that. As stated above, you were driving a vehicle whilst unlicenced, the reason why (in your case) is irrelevant. Contact a lawyer

I don't have a gauge so I haven't been able to tell. Car seems to be running fine though.

I had a hole-blocked & squashed stock BOV on my R33 and it was a pain in the arse. Boost did come on nicely and it did flutter a bit on low RPM let off but it was so jerky in throttle transition i had to take it off and replace it with another stocker. If anyone wants it to play with PM me its yours.

Hi guys, I put an 040 in the car a few months ago. Ran fresh wiring, new relay etc etc Up until today, you could just hear it humming/sucking away. From inside the car you could just hear over the exhaust & from the outside you could barely hear the pump at all. Today it has started whining/buzzing and it is significantly louder than normal. Should I be worried?

You also have to understand that local court magistrates have to sit down all day, every day listening to stories. Be up front with the court that you made a mistake, and that you realise how stupid your actions were. Make sure they know you wont do it again. Try and make them believe that. Don't try and argue that your driving record is good, or that it is your first serious driving offence. You will only invite the magistrate to tell you otherwise. I wouldn't bank on a s10, but be up front and honest about what you have done and you will have the best chance.

Hey mate, From the pics looks like you've got Federal and Bridgestone tyres on the rims? Is that correct? which ones are the new ones? How much meat left on the other 2. Cheers

Well the low boost setting will be 10psi with the R32 actuator- regardless of whether the electronic solenoid is connected or not. What I'm hoping to do is get the R33 solenoid to bleed off 2psi when it is earthed, giving me 12psi. I guess I'll just have to try it out!! Cheers

Thanks for the replies guys, but i should have been a bit clearer - I'm already running an R32 actuator and getting a rock solid 10psi at the moment with a FMIC/exhaust. I was hoping to use the stock boost solenoid to switch between 10psi and 12psi. I don't want to run 12psi all the time but it would be good to have the car remapped on 12psi and then use that setting for when I need a bit more oomph.

Hey mate, Consider selling just the springs if someone else wants the shocks? Are there any part#'s on the springs? Cheers

Hi guys, I remember seeing a post on here somewhere about this but I can't seem to find it- if someone can point me in the right direction I would appreciate it. Wondering if anyone has run an R32 actuator (10psi) with the stock R33 boost solenoid earthed out and ended up with a stable 12psi? Any experiences would be great. Cheers Chris

Big pipes are way prettier though aren't they Adro?

Keen on TOMEI short shifter. Could you PM me some pics/ details about the model/throw reduction etc. Thanks mate

R33Gangstar has identified a valid point; buying and selling on internet forums is risky and this forum is no different to any other in that respect. It frustrates me that the internet has allowed traders (both sellers and buyers) to become less accountable for their actions. The internet has allowed traders to be invisible in a way that was not possible in the past. Consumers rarely allow retailers in stores to get away with inaccurate product descriptions, goods that don't arrive, faulty products etc so why should they accept that from internet sellers? One of the biggest problems in my opinion is that people are so complacent about it. Firstly, as people have said above; it would be nearly impossible to make internet sellers completely accountable, but there are a couple of possibilities I have been thinking about that could provide a little more piece of mind. Please keep in mind these are only ideas, and I do not understand the ins and outs of the computer/maintenance side of running a forum like this. 1. Forum registration- Have two different member profiles, 'Profile 1' allows you to contribute and browse all forums except the classifieds, and 'Profile 2' allows you to contribute and browse all forums, including classifieds. To get a 'Profile 2' you must identify a home address/bank account/drivers licence/university or institution email THAT CAN BE VERIFIED BY SAU (and must be verified each time a classified is posted). If sellers/buyers have nothing to hide they should have no problem in giving out information to SAU. 2. In conjunction with (1), introduce a minimum post number before you can post in the classifieds section. 3. Set a minimum amount of information that MUST be included in classified posts or they will be removed, eg, location, price, photos, reason for sale/receipts if applicable 4. Charge for advertising. It only needs to be an arbitrary, small sum, but it may weed out people who are just spamming. Like I said, only ideas, but if everyone throws up their hands and says 'caveat emptor' it only makes it easier for dishonest people to take advantage. My .02

Does it rattle if you shake it? I had an SSQV, when the spring was fully loosened you could hear something rattle inside. When it rattled it whistled. When I tightened it up so it stopped rattling it fluttered all day. Hmm

I've got a JJR stealth cooler. Fitment was really not very good, but easily overcome with a bit of know-how. My only problem is that the lower return pipe sits quite low to the ground and cops the odd scrape now and then. If you can afford/find a Blitz one, BUY IT.

+1 All you need to do is run a vac line from the wastegate actuator to the intake manifold/pressurised i/c pipe. All the rest of the vac lines can just be blocked off/looped. Unless the actuator is fecked you should be getting 10psi all day. If you are getting less, do the Rev210 intake mod, as my intake pipe was sucking shut at only ~10psi.

While we are on the topic of Buddy Club P1's. Anyone have photos of silver R33's with gray/charcoal P1's on?? Pretty please :-)

bump bump

Hi mate, ill take one of the stock BOV's. If you are in Sydney I can pickup this arvo/tonight. If not, can transfer money today for BOV + postage. Let me know champ Cheers

Pioneer Sub still for Sale $100 ONO- take it off my hands/ off my bedroom floor! Cmaan HNGUNGGGHH!

Set of 4 rims Bits of gutter rash but overall good condition. Rims have Dunlop Sp Sport 3000 Tyres fitted, 2x tyres have some rubber left- (see pics below) 2x tyres down to canvas on the inside (camber wear) no real use left in them. Located Hornsby. NSW Take em away! $100 ono

Hey mate, would you consider selling the 4 Bilstein shocks separately? What sort of $ would you take? Also interested in the HICAS lock kit- does it include the module to intercept the HICAS computer? Cheers

I also have a squashed and hole-blocked r33 gts-t bov if anyone wants to swap it for their un-modified stock one Flutters on light back off, boost comes on harder than normal.