Yeedogga

Hi all, Have some car audio stuff that I have sitting in my room. There's a good chance I'll never get around to fitting it all in the R33 and I need the cesh! Cash is good, or keen on a swap for a decent short shifter to suit R33 Gts-t or OEM Silver Sideskirts 1. Pioneer TSW305C 12" 800w sub in Pioneer box - An oldie but a goodie, bought brand new a few years ago - 'Shallow' design box allows for mounting in tight boot spaces - AS NEW condition $120 2. Jaycar 'Response' 4 x 100WRMS amplifiers Cat.# AA-0435 (x 2) - For those who know about these amps, they are unreal value for money! - Good, solid construction (hard to find these days) - 'push-in & screw down' hole terminals (not those fiddly square tab ones) - Big power output: 4 x100WRMS at 4 ohms 2x 300WRMS bridged at 4 ohms - Inbuilt Front/ Rear Crossover - Inbuilt Front/ Rear BASS BOOST - Bought them brand new for $350 each - In VERY GOOD CONDITION $150 each If you buy the lot ill throw in some 4ga & 8ga cable and a distribution block to hook them up in an r33 (boot mounted battery)! Sweet! All items located in Sydney near Hornsby Prefer pickup as items are heavy and relatively fragile. PM me if you have any questions or queries! Cheers Chris

Keen to separate/ swap the Nismo short shifter? Cheers

If you've got heaps of crap to cart around why not get a Stagea? That's what they were designed for weren't they?

Generally best to block off the stock valve if you want to hear the aftermarket one. Just cut a thin piece of aluminium and put it where the gasket is between the stock BOV and the crossover pipe. You wont hurt anything by running both valves, just that the stock one will usually open (and relieve alot of the pressure) before the aftermarket one will open. PS. Search and Read- that is the way to greatness.

I have held off from doing anything to see what would happen and because I haven't had any time. During the day it no longer misfires at all, it runs clean through to redline. The only difference being that the 'valley' cover is now off. I would be surprised if this had any real effect. I am yet to try it early in the morning when it is really cold outside (The misfire was much worse in the early morning cold air). Ill try it tomorrow and see how I get on. What are the chances it was a bad batch of fuel? Cheers Chris

Thanks all, Im running BKR5E-11 at the moment, so I will get some BCPR6E(S) from work tomorrow and give it a shot. Cheers

Hi all, Car is an r33 gts-t Series 2. Front mount, 3" exhaust, panel filter, stock boost solenoid and 2-stage boost still in place. Plugs are NGK coppers, std gap 8,500km old. Above 4,500RPM (when the second boost stage kicks in) i get a misfire, pop pop pop. Pretty standard, well documented. Worse when it is cold. Bought some second-hand JJR Coils to test if it was coils (they did not come with the little springs, so i used the original springs from the coils, and it misfired even WORSE. Any positive manifold pressure and it would sound like a machinegun and NO power. Put the stock coils back in and it is still mifiring but only very slightly. Questions: - Could the little springs be causing the JJR ones not to work - Could the JJR ones be stuffed - Could it be the fuel pump? Any other bright ideas, Im a bit stumped. Cheers Chris

Actually, there is a way, it has been documented that RB26's can lose turbine wheels and they end up in the motor.

hey mate if you still have the splitfires ill take them cheers

Nah Adro I f**king missed out! The internets went down at work and someone bought it before I got home. Curious if it was someone on this board tho, I'm spewin it would have been a good buy.

5rwkw from a pod filter on standard boost? I want your magic pod filter

In the words of Ms Hanson; Ploise exploin?

Hey man, great to know that it all worked out so well n that you are happy with the setup! Good on ya for putting your findings up on here, I'm sure your info will be a good reference for other SAUers! Cheers mate! Now post vids!

If you are looking at 200-300rwkw, a stock-internal RB25 should definitely be up to the task, especially if you are on a 'strict budget'. There are plenty of people on this board with MUCH more knowledge than me, but AFAIK, building a reliable 25/30 is not a cheap exercise, and if you are only going to put a high-flow on it anyway, you may as well not bother. There are hundreds of threads on here about making 200-300rwkw out of an RB25 but with; PowerFC, 550cc's, z32 (or perhaps a custom AFM), fuel pump(s), and a GT30 or 35 based turbocharger, you should make near what you want. Do some more searches and you will find. If I have misled this man, please correct me

Hi all, I have made a gauge pod out of fibreglass which fits on my a pillar. Nothing special there, but I am aiming for the OEM look. What I would really like is if I can replicate the texture of the existing A Pillar/ dash when I paint the pod. I'm sure you all know what I mean, the kind of 'crackly' vinyl texture that the dash skin and pillars are. I've thought alot about it and I can't really think of a way that will work with any real success. SO; I thought I'd see if anyone on here has some ideas.. Otherwise, ill sand back the whole pillar and paint it all a flat colour... which won't look nearly as good :-) Any ideas will be welcomed enthusiastically! Cheers

If Performance-Wise knew this and was concerned about their customers, they should not have sold them in the first place. Caveat emptor is all very well, but IF the kits are being advertised by Performance Wise as 'bolt on' and they clearly aren't, then the goods are not fit for their intended purpose. Fair Trading Act and all that jazz. Rev210- IF, when you ordered the kit, it was advertised as 'bolt-on' and the instructions were not on the website (as they are now) I believe you should pursue the refund. Its true, not everything from China is crap, and you pay for what you get. But it is my concern that suppliers (sellers) are NOT held to account for inaccurate or false representations in their advertising. It happens far too often now and eBay has made it very easy for sellers to shirk their obligations. Just my 2 cents Good luck

Hey Cjmartz, the 35 seems like it pull really hard once it gets on song- what are the specs on your setup if you dont mind me asking? (Sorry to jack the thread Ceffie!)

Fark, that's orrite. 4500-5000RPM must give you a little shove?!

Sounds like a neat way of doing it! Back in the thread you said it made 246 rear on 10psi- was this before the bigger injectors/ afm went in? I'm really curious as to whether the holset is a feasible alternative to a GCG highflow/ 3071, running the holset at ~10psi on std injectors with a remapped ecu. May not have the same kind of response, but it would certainly work out cheaper if I do the dirty work.

What a great read, Paul your professionalism and attention to detail is inspirational. Good shit!

Ah, so are you running a NIStune on an r32 ecu? What injectors are you running? Yeah I have done a bit of reading about Holsets on Volvo forums, alot of guys are running them in the states on B230 motors (2.3L 4 cyl). They seem to think that they have difficulty holding steady boost due to the flapper being far too small to allow sufficient flow around the turbine, Apparently enlarging the hole and using a larger flapper has solved the problem for some- i know of one guy who used the head of a valve to make a larger flapper.

grr

Adrian, are you thinking what I'm thinking? With a bit of work on the wastegate flapper it should hold 10-15 psi? N you reckon a Toshi remap will run this thing ok? Hmm.. $500 ay...

Don't think it will affect the airbag sensor, but I think any modification of the sheetmetal is an issue. I spoke to a NSW Highway Patrol cop last week who seemed to think that cutting holes for intercoolers is a no-no. But, as he himself said, and I quote; "most Highway guys know f**k all anyway." Just what we have always thought

As above, make sure its around the right way, if you don't, the actuator wont see any signal = lots of boost, boost cut and eventual FAIL. Oh, and even if you don't do it for anything else. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS for this one.