Cartman

SOLD please lock.

i think its a cobolt drill bit you need for high tensial

what about rams head service with there cnc ported heads... recently saw a 20valve head done by them and wow it was perfect..

yeah they wont be lol

they put it almost identically to how you've worded it there, i have a feeling this budget slap together is goin to make for some good fun

nice work trent thats goin to be about what i'm aiming for out of my 275000km running fine rb30e, 10cm t67-25g should be lots of fun on it

dislexia at its best?

nah, goin studs.

meh just flip her over do the job yourself and be done with it.

nah.. no need to freshen it up.. this is just a slap together out of boredem, motor was in good working order with good compression before it was pulled out... only reason it came out was for a 2530det to go in spoke to the machine shop today and they've said just use 25 studs aswell as the head is doweled so there shouldnt be any problems with slop in the head

hey all just got a couple of quick questions as i'm slapping together a rb2630 out of parts i have laying around... the plan is to slap one of my 26 heads i have laying around onto a good condition standard rb30e bottomend i have aquired.. i have everything laying around for this except for the timing belt kit and my head bolt/stud issue.. my main question is about the head bolts/studs considering the 26 runs a larger size... Will there be any problems with me just using arp rb25 head studs? with out getting anything else even tho sleeves to sit in the 26 headbolt holes to comensate for the narrower head stud would be ideall... but this is a very very budget slap together out of parts i have laying around unless there is somewhere i can buy those sleeves providing they arent to costly... OR would i be better to take the complete short block into the machine shop and see if they'll drill and tap it with out pulling it apart (i dont think they'll like that idea ) Thanks in advance Wazz

has been a long time since i got taught all that shit, but i use 304 for everything and have never once had it crack, i'll be making a turbo manifold soon for one of my own cars providing i can get the bends cheap enough i'll test it out, could get scary pricing up 20 or so bends in small sizes but will see how it goes when ever i get around to doin it

aswell as bent idler or tensioner bolt/stud, are both plates still on the proper way down on the bottom pully

try, point blank on ebay... i f**king hate ebay but i did a piping job the other week and the owner supplied his own silicon joiners which he got from there... they seemed like quite high quality and cheap as

still for sale...

still for sale...

the main reason manifolds crack is due to the exhaust system not being supported properly, and if my memory serves me properly from tafedays... 304 is more durable for exhaust manifolds, due to the propertys in 321 its more prone to heat stress cracks as its a harder metal in saying that tho i've always used 304 for all my exhaust work but i havent made a manifold out of it as steam pipe is cheaper and holds the heat in better but not once have i had any 304 crack on me its all in the mounting brackets and flex joints help.

good to hear.

i couldnt care, i just think its hilarious.

love the dyno sheet for that car, especially how they've got the circles towards the topend lol

bump... offers.

bump offers.

i wouldnt so much say its welding, to me it sounds like they are using the wrong grade alloy, or the wrong grade filler rods have been used. edit, for a quick fix you could resin over the welds like what radiator shops do to alloy cores that have suffered electrolisis were they have split from the tubes to the header plate. perhaps it could even be electrolisis eating away at the surge tank?

someone buy these and the tomei lifters, i need a clutch.

someone buy these and the springs i need a clutch