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WIth twin turbos, the recipe came down to a;
- higher lift cam on the exhaust side - opens up the flow from the head all the way through the turbos then exhaust.
- equal length front pipe - the clashing of the pulses gave a distinct pitch vs non-equal length
- exhaust steel type, mild/SS/titanium would also give a certain flavour.
I changed the front pipe and cat-back from non-equal to equal-length, and SS to titanium, with barely any noticeable difference. For my application (twin -9 upgrade) the cams bought the noise to life.
My set up retained a hi-flow cat, and a resonator in the cat-back (Amuse titan R1 extra)
Getting some video done on my car in the coming days ill try remember to come back and post here.
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On 24/02/2021 at 1:33 PM, Ben C34 said:
Squeezing the oil out of your engine bearings to hold the car on a hill sounds like a shit idea to me.
Hey @Ben C34 was this directed at my method? Just would like to know how you mean as I am a mechanical numpty.
Cheers,
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I think best practice is pull up to a stop with foot on the brake, pull up the hand brake, release foot off the brake pedal, turn off the car, clutch in (or not, don't think it matters once car is off) put the gearbox in 1st or reverse depending on whether you're facing up/down.
I do this in autos too, foot brake, hand brake, release foot brake, put lever into P.
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Not an expert, but recently went through the process with my R34, lowering anything more than the stock height will push the rear camber out negatively, my coils were barely lower than stock and i had -3deg which burns through tyres. I fitted adjustable rear camber arms to correct the camber back to -1 for street driving/tyre preservation
Lowering the fronts also affects the geometry, a bandaid fix includes a roll center adjuster insert, some detailed explanation below, as well as info on the effects of lowering in general.
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Ah ic right yep, thanks,
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There will be a lot of cars hitting this stage after many good years on higher than stock boost. Rings/bearings with all new hoses and gaskets would be my vote, a new OEM oil pump will also go a long way, without needing to spend big dollars.
Forgive me for asking, what would be the advantages of going new pistons, instead of a new set of OEM rings to suit the existing pistons? Especially at a manageable power level?
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Most builds here either use the ATI (US made) or Ross (AU made) damper, at your power level, their base models have improved over the years and are rated to around 750hp while keeping all other OEM pulleys in standard positions. Being in the US, the ATI damper would make more sense as they can be easily rebuilt locally with local parts. We have the same advantage with Ross balancers here.
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Nice! Welcome, great to see new members with new cars still posting here. Looks like nice stock car that you won't be scared of putting kms on! Who did you go through in WA, prestige? Did you have a good experience bringing it in? Leather seats look like a nicely done job too.
Any goals for the car short/long term?
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@fatz is the man to talk to, see some of his project car threads as he works through what works and doesn't work without spending the earth and spending on things not required at certain power levels.
2 of his build threads to sift through;
Some other easy-to-understand resources on RB26 rebuilds.
Rebuild basics
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=189006661230825&set=a.418233531641469
Extended sump walkthrough
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=189006661230825&set=a.399827453482077
Crankcase ventilation
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?vanity=189006661230825&set=a.42413259438489
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Everyone's worst nightmare with claying! Very nice work on the paint, correction + ceramic can really bring the paint back to life.
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I have my car serviced, troubleshooted and tuned at MRC in Seven Hills, Mark is a really good operator, where abouts in Sydney are you based?
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Their suspension components are predominately all rose jointed/pillow ball which are great for directness and feel on track, but can add more harshness and vibration on the street as well as be more prone to wear so will need to be inspected more regularly on a street car, although they have dust boots to shield them from contamination.
If you want components with standard pressed rubber bushings, hardrace have options which will give you closer to OEM longevity and compliance, while being able to be dialed in for performance.
I have GK tech rear camber arms, rear sub-frame collars and front roll center adjusters on my R34 which only does about 5-6000ks a year, they make quality parts and i wanted to support Australian owned and made, you just have to know the differences and decide what's best for you.
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6 hours ago, Deza3000 said:
Thanks a heap that takes so much mystery out of it, much appreciated. Definitely not a usage case you would assume could cause starvation.
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Awesome to see these build threads still starting. Still good timing on the buy i'd say good to seem them enjoyed and worked on.
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Really interesting, thanks for sharing, can totally understand keeping the spend from getting out of control and simply fixing/improving what was damaged or essential.
What did the overhaul set you back if you dont mind me asking, still would have been a heavy cheque id imagine, i'm currently on -9s stock motor and have always thought when the day comes to rebuild.
Did the starvation come from anything specific ie track time or just low oil volume in general?
Cheers,
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Ross has also updated their balancers in mid 2019 to have an integrated crank trigger and also a bit more robust (slightly higher HP rating) across the range.
https://www.facebook.com/RossPerformanceParts/posts/2425259977752017
Ross Performance Parts are excited to announce the release of our new **Nissan RB Metal Jacket Harmonic Damper with Integrated Crank Trigger Disc**
We decided it was time to rebuild our RB Metal Jacket from the ground up. Incorporating over 15 years of experience, countless racing engine hours and feedback from industry experts from around the globe, the result is a product that is not only cheaper, but better, than our old 'bolt on trigger' option.
The integrated trigger has a number of benefits. Not only does it seamlessly service crank triggering, it also allowed us to increase damping mass by a huge 20% in our Metal Jacket range while decreasing overall assembly weight. These changes resulted in an increase of the horsepower rating to an industry leading 800hp, while still maintaining all OEM pulley diameters and offsets for a true bolt on upgrade.
Get yours here - http://bit.ly/Ross-RB-Dampers
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-7s seem to peak around the 17-20psi mark, and -9 seem to breath around the 20-24psi mark (+2-3psi respectively for E85). If you are going VCAM, -9s would be my choice to have the best balance of response and overall output.
My understanding is the HKS GTIII-SS is the updated version of the GT-SS which was based of the Garrett -9 unit. The HKS unit would be my choice.
This was my mod-list to support my -9 build, it all adds up when you are starting from scratch and want to support the turbo set up as much as possible.
Head / Turbo
- Garrett 2860-9s - fitted with HKS oil feed restrictor banjo bolts
- Garrett 1bar actuators
- Tomei dump pipes
- Standard cast manifolds - Port matched to turbos
- Tomei Poncam Type A - lifter shim clearance within OE spec
- Jun adjustable cam gears (OR gears modified to be adjustable) - set to 0deg/0deg
ECU/AFMs
- Apexi Power FC
- Apexi analog boost controller
- Nismo AFMs
Cooling
- Plazmaman Pro Series 76mm intercooler
- Koyorad 48mm aluminium radiator
- Trust 13 row oil cooler with filer relocation kit
Exhaust / Intake
- Amuse R1 Titan Extra cat-back exhaust 90mm
- Apexi Super Catalyzer Cat - 80mm
- Mines Pro front pipe (2 x 70mm into 80mm)
- Nismo inlet piping
- OE Airbox with Nismo panel filter and snorkel
Ignition / Fuel
- Sard 650cc top-feed Injectors
- Splitfire coilpacks
- Wiring specialties coilpack harness
- Walbro 460lph fuel pump
- Denso iridium spark plugs
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What mods are currently done to the car, and what mods have you already bought to go into the motor?
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nice matching tein toes pete, what's the ball park for the re-valving of these? do you need to have the circuit master teins?
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17 hours ago, fatz said:
Yea had it on my last r33 did 6 years of track days (10-20 a year)
keep the oil cap connection open and put a one way valve on your catch can drain back
but I also run a external catch can scavenge pump (weldon external dry sump pump) which sucks the can dry over 6k rpm( this is just for extra f**k you oil control)
So much RB wisdom in one post.
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better love story than #nostories
Pete whats your take on trigger kits, will you be going one in this car?
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Nice, would sound the goods with the cams and the ti front pipe & catback.
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i have 275/35 on my 10.5+15s, running standard guards and close to 1.2-1.4 deg camber.
My wheel alignment guy who preps and races IPRA was happy with the sidewall rake on 265 (Yoko AD08R) and 275 (Hankook RS4) from a functional/performance point of view.
You can fit 265-305, but i think the general consensus is 285 and up you might have to consider rolled guards/camber to fit depending how low the car is.
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Mark at MRC Dyno in Seven Hills is an auto elec by trade, has done alot of troubleshooting for my R34 over the years.
Gearbox rebuild/upgrade Getrag v160/233
in Drivetrain and transmission
Posted
SA based company Neat Gearboxes quote $3,400 for a refresh per their standard pricelist - http://www.neatgearboxes.com.au/
They post pretty regular content on getrag V160/161 6-speeds, you can see some of their works here - https://www.facebook.com/page/309050369209123/search/?q=v160