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JGTC

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Everything posted by JGTC

  1. The biggest issue is usually the ignition coil packs, if/when you test drive the car, put your foot on the brake and put your foot on the gas, this tests the coils under load and if they're are faulty, you will be able to hear it. Also be sure you check for rust, near the front strut bruce and in the boot wells. If you can go for a 2000-2001 or a series 2 model as the price difference isnt that much greater All the best, happy hunting! Danny
  2. Hey everyone, Just got a quick question for R34 owners, how many sets fo keys are you suppose to get with an R34? Is it two sets or just the one set? Thanks in advance, Danny
  3. it may be over-bearing but it's as full on JDM as it gets haha
  4. It's quite a task to remove the factory aero wing, i believe theres about 8 bolts (2 on each rear quarter panel and 4 in the bootlid) So unless you completly can't stand it, i'd carefully consider I remember one guy on here, said he paid up to 2K to remove the wing, weld the holes and respray the 3 panels, so it's a costly project unless you want rust coming through Most people on here hate that wing but i love it haha, it looks nice if you got a big bodykit to go with it All the best Danny
  5. Hey i was wondering if you were still willing to sell your car, i've managed to get everything going and ready, i understand if you dont want to but if you do, let me know.

  6. You could give DMS detailing (http://www.dmsdetailing.com.au/) a look, i haven't used them but the products he uses are proven top notch brands - P21s, Menzerna, Zaino and Swissvax.
  7. Generally, off the shelf polishes last up to 6 months and higher end specialist brands last up to 12 months The steps they describe are quite accurate (wash, de-wax, clay, polish, sealant), however 5 year protection is basically a gimmick, as swirls can be introduced after just one wash. To bring back the life of your paint, you should consider getting your car professionally detailed, Dr. Detail has a great reputation in Sydney (and on this forum), his charge is around $350 - which is quite reasonable for the work he does so maybe give him a go. just type "dr detail" in the search bar on this forum to see the work he's done for a few sau peeps http://www.drdetail.com.au/ - website isn't operational but his number and email is there all the best, and make sure to post pics! Edit: just had a look at that Glare product, it's just a glorified waterless wash, put simply, the more rubbing and wiping you do (esp without water) as you wash, the more likely you are to introduce new swirls, without a good pre-rinse and snow-foam, you'll just be rubbing the dirt into your paint which will rape your paintwork with swirls and scratches
  8. He says the 2nd set of GTR rims are located in Wollongong at a mates house, and that the couriers are actually his mates What i want to know is where he sources the parts from, someone who spoke to him said he was dogged on compliance with his R34 GTR, so why is it that parts are located in Wollongong and where does he source the extra sets of goods from. I don't mean to offend your integrity Carlos, but you offer no protection for the customers who want to buy your kit, even the basics like Paypal or COD, you have to understand the logic behind people just transferring the funds with no assurance or guarantee of receiving their goods I'd be willing to buy the rims simply providing you get your mate to send some pics, i'd be willing to deposit the postage in your account first, then when the goods arrive, i will deposit the remaining balance into your account Cheers, Danny
  9. That's disappointing, hopefully you get your parts soon, is there any protection against us losing our money?
  10. Just got off the phone with him today, he said he's in Melbourne and the only way to buy parts is to pay him via bank deposit, then once he receives the money, he will send out the parts via courier which are currently at his mate's house in Wollongong On another note, i'm wondering if anyone has received their parts via a courier, or received parts in general? PM me or post here Cheers
  11. hey ill take the gtr rims, how much are you after for them? if its the same price as the 1st set ($1300) ill pick them up tomorrow with cash
  12. PM sent regarding nismo gear knob
  13. Would that happen to be Waxit.com? We got Carcareproducts.com here in Syd AFAIK Looks a beaut!
  14. 33GTRs are 5sp but in another post, the OP said he had fitment troubles so you'll have to confirm with him which one he's bought
  15. Depends which size you bought, on the packaging it should say either 10mm or 12mm. 10mm knobs are for 5MT cars - R32s, R33s and R34 GT-ts 12mm knobs are for 5MT cars - R34 GTR's S15's Hope that helps ps. cool car! i think im a R33 GTR convert in terms of GTRs
  16. Nismo gear knobs come in 2 sizes; 10mm for 5sp cars (R33 GTST, GTR, R34 GT-t and 25GT and 12mm for 6sp cars, R34 GTR and S15s
  17. Hey CJ, that Carmate wing you had on your old R34, how did they make they blade look like carbon fibre? Did you get them to paint and fit it? It looks nice on your car and i'd consider getting it Cheers
  18. PM and SMS sent Re: Wing - can pick up today with cash
  19. This could lead the way for custom Skyline taxi's and driving school cars, interesting.
  20. They say different technology is used with the NXT range, especially the Ultimate Detailer. I have the NXT wash and NXT Tec Wax. If you're going to use Meguiars brands, use the Soft Wash, Quik Clay, Paint Cleaner, Deep polish and NXT Tec Wax. But if you haven't bought any of them yet, buy Mothers, they're supposed to be much better.
  21. It should be fine with what you have atm, but if you have a dark coloured car, a dedicated wax will really stand out. If you are going to buy a dedicated wax, i'd downgrade back to the Super Resin Polish EDIT: simply use and layer your current Deep Shine Polish and put about 3 layers of Extra Gloss protection. This will cover most of the swirls and provide a good shine
  22. The way i see it is Mothers > Autoglym > Meguiars, these are just entry level off the shelf products, there's a whole level of products above them Autoglym have a sealant aswell called 'Extra Gloss Protection', use that after applying your polish/wax so the shine will last a bit longer. You shouldn't have to polish every month, every 2-3 months should be fine. The once a year polishes are for better brands that you apply using a random orbital (RO) Definately get a hold of a clay bar, just get Meguairs Quik Clay, the process would follow; wash, dry, clay, wash, polish/wax, seal (Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection) Get a hold of a few more microfibre towels aswell, try and get ones for different steps so the chemicals dont mix Just thought I'd put this up, its a detailing clinic held in Sydney in Rozelle by Car Care on the 12th of June, $40 entry and they show you how to properly wash, clay, polish by hand and machine, seal and wax your car http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/...ailing_clinic-0
  23. Give claying a go, just get Meguiars Quik Clay. it leaves your panels feeling like glass it gives a good base for polishing and wax.
  24. I think Daniel (SS8_Gohan) is the only bloke on here who's got the genuine East Bear GTS-R body kit on his car, so throw him a PM maybe he can give share his experiences, From what i've heard it's very very durable for a fiberglass kit, being able to withstand Australian roads and bumps, they do cost a pretty penny tho, between 6-8K for the full kit, definitely worth it though, by far the best option. Keep your old bumpers though in-case you decide to sell your car because there's no way people will pay much in terms of a premium for aftermarket bits, no matter how dear they are Here's a few pics (hope you don't mind Daniel) All the best champ, be sure to post up pics!
  25. Mate you wanna stay away from brands like armour all an turtle wax, they are just no good. Ill start with the swirling on your car, 99% of swirls are induced by your washing method, grit gets stuck onto your sponge/mitt and you're basically scratching your car as you wash. Before you do anything, hose your car down excessively to get any excess dirt and soften the grit that stays on the car. I suggest you use a 2 bucket method, one with plain warm water (warm because it will release the grit from your mitt much easier than cold) to rinse your mitt and one with your car wash solution. With the mitt, flip sides to prevent spreading the grit, wash from top to bottom; 1. roof, bonnet, sides and rear, rinse in the warm water after each side. Since you've got a nice car invest in some good products, you can get mediocre products like Meguiars, AutoGlym and Mothers (the better of the 3) from Supercheap and Autobarn. But if you really want good results, order some good brands from www.waxit.com.au (QLD), www.finalinspection.com.au (VIC) and carcareproducts.com.au (NSW), they have proper products for similar prices which last much longer than the commercial stuff off the shelf Wash, polish and wax is OK, but there is a whole world of better above that. Just have a browse through this topic to get some ideas of what to get for a decent price Here's a demo video from the head of demonstrations at Meguiars on how to wash your car safely http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=75...owcargarage.com All the best matey, Danny
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