Touge Kyousou

How'd the popcharger do ? I've heard mixed reports but most good! Did they dyno with bonnet up or down ? If bonnet was up.. kinda gives the open pod an unfair advantage that wouldn't exist under road driving.

Hey manda23, Yep i would definitely recommend a combo like you've mentioned. It's all quite cheap and pretty good bang for buck if you're after a bit more power/acceleration. As above, i'm using the motordyne 5/16 basic and found it easy to install and to give solid gains. My Z tube is oem. And i'm running a trust/greddy airinx dropin panel filter. For the z tube, i don't really recommend the steel ones as they heatsoak (especially on a hotday). Go with either the oem plastic z tube or a CF/silicone one imho. If you go with a CF one, make sure it's a good quality one, not a cheapie that will crack under usage lol =/ For the K&N filter, maybe try looking for a dry filter ? As during cleaning of the K&N, you have to reoil it and if done too much, oil will build up on your air flow meter making the car not run optimally (only happens when you apply too much oil...but why not just get a dry filter in the first place ) The stock cutout for the vq35de is 6600rpms and if yours is around 7500rpms, definitely some kind of ecu tweaking happening there. The impul ecu i don't think anyone in Aus will be able to tune. Also without knowing what internals you have, might be a good idea to keep the revs under 7200rpms. The stock internals start deforming past 7200rpms. A decent solution that i'm thinking of is the emanage ultimate. Enough functions for our cars plus it can adjust the rev limit and also disable 180km/h speed limit for track etc. How'd you go on the dyno and the ECU thing ?

I always wonder when i see manufacturers claim of these plenums about the 20/30/50 hp gain. This plenum looks good although i'm not sure about the 30.5hp gain ? Maybe on a car with forced induction installed. Be interesting if someone dynos it after install

Yeah exhaust/spacer/intake seems a pretty good combo for the vq35de With these and a little more, my coupe can comfortably do sub 6 to 100km/h in acceleration. In gear acceleration is quite good too considering displacement and n/a nature of the car. -Exhaust alone of course makes the car louder, the rev range will be nicer from mid mostly and you'll feel a bit at cutout (for a typical catback/y pipe back). -Z tube makes not much difference by itself, engine was a bit louder when giving it. The revs may have climbed a *little little* bit quicker compared to oem tube. -Dropping in a high flow panel filter gave the car a tiny bit more power, i noticed the revs climbing quicker with this than just the z tube. -Spacer made an impressive difference to me. Engine was once again a little louder along with exhaust. Revs climbed a fair bit quicker and i can feel the difference from in gear acceleration as well. My fuel economy may have improved too but i'm not 100% on this.. maybe slightly. I suspect if you already have the z tube and a filter/intake, the spacer makes full use of this along with the fact that it's preventing the front intake runners from being starved of air under high load. So perhaps spacer by itself isn't as good as say spacer+intake. The above is my opinion only, you may get different results. All on an 03 coupe 6mt.

It's a manual 03.

Motordyne 5/16 basic here. For me, i did feel a difference, in fact a massive difference for me (this will be different for everyone as to how in tune you are with your car, what you classify as a big/small difference and driving style).. I feel power has improved impressively considering the cost, response *may* be a tad better. Feels better through whole rpm range but more noticeable from mid to cutout. Oh and yeah, i'd definitely buy it again. As for the mrev2 lower collector, if you have the vq35de, probably skip the mrev2...from what everyone says, it gives very poor value for money in terms of performance increase. On the HR engines however, it works really well. The US enthusiasts generally use the guide of vq35de should install spacer, vq35hr should use mrev2+spacer. Note: My car when stock had really low power output (i'm talking lower than 130 kw atw) so it is possible my mods are releasing the typical power + the power i should've had in the first place, hence the big difference feel for me.

I think i will drop by for part of the night.. see some other v35's and meet some fellow owners.

The green bolts can be undone using a 4mm socket.. just in case you go back to stock later. Anyways, good mod. Excellent bang for buck and it's something you'll feel. I run the motordyne basic. Easy as install.

Be interesting to see how it goes BLISTC, definitely keep us up to date! What weight will the flywheel be ? Oaksey, i've also never heard of that phenomenon before in regards to running a lightweight flywheel. Usually, a car equipped with one will make audible (inside the cabin even) metal cling clang etc noises while just coasting around with the clutch engaged. Do you get that ? Think my next mod might be custom tune actually, just found out some new stuff today

Hey V35'ers Hoping for people running a lightweight flywheel to give some feedback/opinion as to how it changed the car ? My mech recommended me to get a lightweight flywheel as my next mod and my clutch has done near 60 thou so probably a good time to start researching

If i'm not busy on the night, i might make the trek out!

g33k, that sucks bummer. Damn, alot of V35's around hurstville. GEXer is at blakehurst so there's another one! Though i saw his car for sale on carsales...

Heh.. i used to live at Hurstville too. Recently moved to beverly hills. I still drive through hurstville a bit to visit parents etc. Yeah i've seen some V35s around hurstville too, even a 250gt white sedan.

White one might've been me, actually no wait lol... i didn't go that away tonight, did last night though. Incidentally, i live in beverly hills..

Oh sorry, forgot to answer: Normal polish is paint polish. You can get AIO products too if you're feeling lazy and some of them do work quite well! One i use sometimes is Pinnacle XMT360.. Using this on the V35 with a machine and low density foam pads, it will -Remove most swirls -Remove old sealant and wax -Remove some contaminants -Apply a layer of sealant -Mostly buff to a nice finish -Will need to final buff by hand slightly for final finish Generally, "polish" comes in many stages e.g. Hard, medium, soft, ultra soft Always start from soft and work your way up.

Yep give the clay bar a good go with lots of clay lubricant. Start off soft but with many passes and gradually increase pressure till you see a result. It's kinda hard to describe... If no good, yep try bug and tar remover and if still no good then try the fingernail lol. But by then, be prepared to polish afterwards. Once contaminant is removed, you'll want to wash the area or use a quick detail spray to clean area (or just wash whole car) Then depending what you want to do, you can either A) Wax areas you cleaned the contaminant from b)Polish whole car. A good polish will remove all waxes and sealants so you will want to follow up with wax or sealant+wax etc. Polishing pearl paint is fine, heavy cutting may be an issue though but i guarantee you won't need to do any heavy cutting for normal swirls or a V35. A good polish is the Poorboys range, and they go in numbers. It's called Poorboys SSR2.0 for e.g. or SSR2.5 You will find these products at boutique detailing shops (mostly online). I use www.waxit.com.au myself. As for a step guide for a medium detail on your V35, i'd recommend -Good wash -Claybar whole vehicle -Rinse down or speed detail off the clay lubricant -Polish (Just use one that strips off old wax and also polishes...called AIO/All in one products) -Buff off polish residue -Apply sealant AND/OR -Apply wax Sealant and wax combinations are very personal and depending on what you want e.g. durability or max show, that will dictate what you use -Buff off sealant residue -Buff off wax residue -Sit car in sun for one hour preferably to allow sealant/wax to melt and bond with paint (or use towel and hot bucket of water...i think this is what Final Inspection do but PITA if you ask me). -Interior/trim clean and dressing etc -Wheels clean and dressing etc. Oh i forgot to mention, to do a good polish job...you really want to use some kind of machine and foam pad/s. You can go by hand if you want...but your arm will probably fall off I know it sounds lengthy and it is to be honest...but the results are well worth it for a fussy owner. Plus you're saving yourself alot of money (provided you have most of the equipment already) and will learn every inch of your car's paint. Also, if you do the above process well, there will be no discernable difference between your effort and a pro's. I would NEVER pay 1K for a detail... the most i ever charged when i did detailing was a bit under $300 =/ Here's some pics to show what you can do with a little time and only entry level boutique products.. Even retail top shelf products like Mothers and Meguiars give awesome results...all in the paint prep really. Sorry..no detailing shots of my V35 lol Got plenty on the mazda as that was my test subject when i first got into it lol.

You're right there ogz007, the paint is quite easy to scratch as it's so soft. However, most full blown details hardly remove any clearcoat to be honest.. it's in the order of nano millimetres if i remember the figure correctly. To be honest, most japanese cars have very soft paint. Euro and Aussie cars on the other hand, very very hard paint.

Lol... oh dear i've got a dirty mind sorry our12! Ok, with alot of detergent...it contains salt. Which scratches paint when rubbed so i wouldn't really advise this method. I know it works, but it will micro scratch your clear coat (scratches you see in the sun). I'm quite certain the damage from a clay bar will be less than fine salt rubbed on your paint. Also, if you LIBERALLY apply clay lubricant, you shouldn't mar the clear coat. V35matt, Hehe yeah swirls are pesky damn things. The V35 paint is really soft so while it polishes/cuts very easily, it also scratches quite easily. One of the first things i did when i got my V35 was a complete paint polish which removed all swirls and really brought the pearl out. Hrmm it's actually due for another one *sigh*

Dr Detail is indeed one of the best. There are a fair few detailers in Sydney that do a really good job. Just bear in mind the V35 paint is extremely easy to work on, doesn't take a full blown pro to get an awesome finish on it.

Ok need to clear some things up.. Claying is not cutting your paint. You are NOT removing any clearcoat by claying though you will most likely mar it slightly. Do not hesitate to use bug and tar remover, just remember to thoroughly clean afterwards and wax the area you just applied the bug and tar remover to. For some contaminants, a clay bar will work better whereas for some others bug and tar remover will work better. In general, black spots are tar spots but they shouldn't be on the roof etc. Seeing as you're parked under trees, more likely tree sap or berry/fruit sap. A clay bar will remove this. If your clay bar did nothing, either you're doing it wrong or you need a different grade of clay for the job. A macro photo would help. If you're still having problems, i suggest you create a thread over at www.detailparadise.com.au asking for help. FWIW, i used to be a detailer. Oh and, bug and tar remover shouldn't swirl your paint. And even if you do somehow do so, the V35 paint is very soft and therefore extremely easy to restore a perfect finish. Talk about a orange peely paint though =/

Hey all. Just an EOI atm but if something good comes up, i may go ahead with it! It's a 2003 Nissan Skyline V35 350GT coupe -VQ35DE 206kw engine -6 spd manual getrag box -Brembo brakes F+R, LSD, with 18" factory sport wheels -Premium interior: leather + suede interior, 6 cd in dash Bose CD player with Bose speakers + controls on steering wheel, in boot 6 MD stacker lol -Factory sat nav and tv with jap spec tv tuner -Factory option front lip and splash guards -Factory option sunroof! -Factory option spoiler -Factory HIDs -Factory foglights in working condition (compliance requires the foglights to be disabled) -Factory plush floormats -Pearlescent white paint Small list of goodies as well (all installed) -Clear corner indicators -Trust Airinx panel filter -USDM Z tube upgrade -Kakimoto Regu 06&R catback exhaust -Nismo low temp thermostat + housing -Whiteline F+R adjustable swaybars (have originals too) -Bridgestone RE-01R tires all round -Raizin ground kit -HKS double fire spark plugs installed couple thou ago Car was bought about 8 months ago as first owner in Aus from a car importer/yard with 47,xxx kms IIRC. Now has 54,xxx km's. Car is washed weekly and waxed monthly. Did a major service late last year including brake fluid. Always warmed up and cooled down properly. Has no electrical gremlins that some V35's unfortunately suffer from. I have been very mechanically sympathetic to this car. Car is currently a weekender. It's very hard to get a V35 in the above config (in fact, i don't think you'll find one on the general car sale websites atm e.g. carsales, carpoint, carsguide etc). I don't think i've seen another one with manual, brembo/lsd, sunroof, spoiler, front lip and splash guards, premium interior etc. If it goes, i will personally give the car a full detail (i used to be a detailer) so the paint will be good as new with no swirl marks and the interior will be clean and treated. Am looking at $33,000. Reasonable ? May trade for a neat 32 or 33 GT-R (stock or with light mods) plus cash my way. Pics available upon request. Thanks!

PM inc re grille.

There is an absolute plethora of information and opinions on tires that most likely you'll have to decide for yourself. I have to say $800 for 4 branded 18" tires is pretty decent though. As to running different tires front and rear (different models i.e.), that's usually a no no if you want to keep the car predictable and behaving decently. It all comes down to how you will drive the car. If all you do is commute with it, then what tempe have suggested will work fine.

A carbon GT wing would look so out of place on a V35 unfortunately lol. I dunno, it might be ok for my car as at the moment, my tires are creating too much grip for the stock springs/shocks to handle, the swaybars have helped but it's still very snap happy. I'll try and drive it later.

Hey Scathing, Yeah i thought it might've...well knew...just don't know yet as to whether i'll like it or not. My previous two cars also ran an empty boot but they were both FWD so it wasn't much of a deal however i know the V35 has a 52:48 weight dist and was designed to be neautralish while on power so removing the spare and tools would upset it.. It's been raining so much my V still hasn't left the garage, and i just put on a set of swaybars too! Might take her for a spin tonight if it dries up and see how it is.. if i don't like the new feeling, i'm just gonna put the spare and tools back in...yay! A rear only wheel spare o.0 Thanks Scathing.