Touge Kyousou

Big price drop my mate wants it gone. 20k with everything, 17k with stock wheels and brakes.

Fat bastard! I can't even trace a line in some areas of the natio lol. Just have to follow the turn..

Keen, i think i expressed my inteest over on 350z tech too hrmm. Photos or cruise doesn't bother me

Hi Albert, I asked my mate to confirm, and he's not really interested in an R34 sorry . Thankyou for the interest though. GL selling your car (looks very nice in your pics).

Went for a drive with my mate, car is running nice. Willing to listen to SERIOUS offers, no low ballers please.

Of course! But to that point, if you can't launch or shift your car well, then you probably don't need to be thinking about what cars you can beat on the strip, at least not yet. From memory when i was looking for info on 350gt's after i placed a deposit on one - Auto does 0-100 in bit under 7 secs, manual does it in 6.6 secs.

Why don't you just time your car 0-100 or goto the local drag strip and get your 1/4 time then go get some car mags..they'll have 0-100 and 1/4 mile data for most cars on the market. Just borrow some mates old copy to check for older models if curious. Easy. And you don't get busted either! If you wanted to compare lap times, try www.fastestlaps.com An 03 350gt will lap tsukuba in the same time as an 03z (being 1min 9.1 seconds).

Still for sale

VDC is still on even when it's off peoples...well at least on mine it still is on in the background. However it does allow wheelspin and angle etc. I've found the only way to fully disable mine is to unplug it

Hehe i have that dvd..not a bad one! If only they had an 03-04 manual in that test...would've had brembos to counter the fade and viscous lsd for drive out of the corners.

What Alan said is very good info. One option i can think of is still getting coilovers, but custom order them and specify a low spring rate so it will be comfortable, then when you want to carve some corners, stiffen the coilover unit via it's adjustability to compensate for the spring. Also, you can adjust your stillen sway bars for this (from memory, you got stillen sways and exhaust?). Also, another contributing factor of ride harshness is your stillen swaybars as the bars reduce independent lateral movement of each side of the suspension. So if yours are set to medium, you can try to set them to soft and see if your missus accepts that. You can also try to hunt down some later model 350z sussy. 03 z suspension is the 2nd hardest z factory suspenion released. I know the 06s had softer dampers and possibly springs. Goodluck.

Yah i've got the same exhaust. I'm quite happy with it. From what i understand, outright power is not it's main goal but rather sound quality. It does sound very nice, though a slight drone at very low rpms (when i'm too lazy to downshift) goes against it. However i do remember when the car was completely stock except for this exhaust, the drone was very minimal. The burbles/low pops between shifts is very satisfying though I've never heard the fujitsubo...curious! I know they're top quality exhausts too though.

Ffaarrr that was cheap! Good buy Foxv35

Hi there, Would you do a straight swap with an 02 wrx with loads of goodies (minus wheels and brakes). http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fs...or-t297118.html Thanks.

Slightly negotiable, no low ballers please.

Couple of options...but you have to make sure it IS only dust, not dirt etc (for the contact methods). A good quality microfibre cloth, DO NOT apply pressure. Simply let the cloth glide over the paintwork. Applying pressure will cause the dust/fine dirt to be pushed against the clear coat, thus creating microscratches aka swirl marks (round scratches you see in the sun, but don't see when there's no strong light etc). Couple of companies make a dusting brush..it's a large brush with many strands of a special type of fabric coated in paraffin wax amongst other stuff.. that should work ok too. A watering can is another option.. long as your car is well waxed, pour the water over the car and as the water runs off, it will collect the dust and dirt. It takes some practice to achieve the "sheeting" effect, which is where you pour the water in a certain way so when it runs off, the paint is 90% or more dry.. leaves only a few spots of water you dab with an MF cloth. Youtube has some videos of people showing how to sheet water on paint. Can also use a waterless wash system..these are self explanatory when you buy the kit.

Washed weekly, or 2nd week if i don't drive it much (it's a weekender). Most washes will be followed up by a spray wax afterwards. Waxed approximately once every 3 months, as it's a weekender that doesn't see much sun/use. Proper clay, machine cut/buff, polish, liquid sealant, paste wax once a year. I use mostly Pinnacle products. My wash liquid however is megs nxt. Sometimes the bonnet, roof and boot will get waxed for the heck of it (these are your most hard hit areas from UV). Almost all old cars will suffer paint fade/crack on bonnet first, followed by roof and boot at the same time. Hrmm, i'm due to give my V a big detail..

Interesting! Good to know thankyou . Almost certain a couple of NM35 stagea owners also had problems with hot start stalling, but like me they also suffered from revs dropping below idle on clutch in sometimes, especially under semi hard to hard braking. I've got the thread bookmarked but too lazy to open lol. Anyways, when one of them replaced their PCV valve, problem solved. I cleaned mine and the car is definitely running smoother. I must say sounds like Xscape is having issues with the battery d/c then, not the valve.

$1200. It doesn't relearn, because they actually overwrite/write in their own data. I know one chip on the ECU actually gets replaced so unsure if AFR targets and ignition mapping is overwritten or even written onto the new chip they put in. Proof that it doesn't relearn is the car hasn't pinged once since the flash/tune. Factory mapping had my engine pinging sometimes (quite a common problem on Z/V on forums). If you do go ahead, just remember it's an n/a engine, don't expect massive amounts of difference before and after. I did it more to get rid of the pinging myself. They managed to give me some noticeable mid range and top end gains however my low end suffered as ignition had to be pulled back considerably as the factory mapping was too aggressive causing the low end pinging.

After your cars fixed itself..do your revs drop below normal idle setting (550rpm) when you clutch in to goto neautral, or also when you goto neautral and brake hard/semi hard ?

You need a new PCV valve methinks.. As an interim solution, remove the PCV valve, thoroughly clean with carby cleaner, reinstall, start and warm up car, then off-start (it may still stall), off, start, off start a few times. Soon after it won't stall anymore. I did the above process and while straight after cleaning, it stalled after i started it about 3-4 times.. the next time i drove the car a few days later it didn't happen again. Getting a new PCV valve myself..ebay USA have 'em. GL.

Keen for neat R32/R33 GTR swaps.. Any questions/queries, please PM

Custom flash (for my engine and mods) at SAS. A few people with Z/V have got it done at SAS.. but they are in Sydney unfortunately (if you were looking to chase that). Car is giving 5.9s to 100 with a soft/medium launch, can't complain for n/a luxo cruiser

Near when i first bought (exhaust, panel filter, tube, ground kit) - 131rwkw @ ISMR Located and fixed overheating issue Middle of ownership (exhaust, panel flter, tube, ground kit, HKS plugs, nismo thermostat, spacer) - 170rwkw @ ISMR Just recently (ECU reflashed and rev limiter raised) - 182rwkw @ SAS Car felt progressively/proportionately faster as i fixed the heat issue and added more mods. It's decent speed now, i'm very happy with it. I don't find myself thinking how i could make it faster anymore really. Now it's more braking power i need. Oh sorry, 03 6mt vq35de. Edit - 182rwkw run also had gramlights on rear, a bit lighter than the factory 18"s. Even though they are wider and have larger tires on.

Uhm, someone able to clarify: Will carby cleaner do the same as the subaru upper engine cleaner... i've known about the sub. upper cleaner for years but when i first bought my V and my mech was changing the spark plugs, he noticed the intake was coated in a film of oil, so he used a bit of carby cleaner.. engine was indeed smoother afterwards etc. I've used the carby cleaner afterwards myself a couple of times and it's worked a treat.