Touge Kyousou

Heya all, Bought a new car to replace the old daily. Holden Apollo slx 1990, Total pov pack, no air/power steer. 218xxxkms. I've been driving this car for almost two years as a work car but replaced it with something much more suitable when i sold the weekender. For how junky it is, it has been suprisingly reliable lol. I've done over 20,000kms in it for work doing long and short trips. 3 months rego left. $350 take it away and have some fun..before i do it myself. Ps. Runs and drives. Not exactly a smooth motor and there's a loudish ticking coming from it. Been like that for almost 10,000kms. Bushes are shot giving it alot of noises. Like said, it'll be good to paddock bash or for some destruction fun. Or if you need a runaround car for 3 months while you rebuild etc.

I have no doubt the manual would be even better though the tip will be better off the mark 90% of the time as there is no driver error, just stomp the gas and whammo, easy repeatable results everytime. I'm not suprised going uphill you'd smoke an mr2, is it aw11 or sw20 ? An n/a mr2 won't have the balls to keep up with power. It's easier going uphill as you're relying on power.. going downhill you're relying on carrying speed stressing handling characteristics more. It's also more daunting on a driver punting a heavy car downhill due to large tires giving high grip thresholds and that large bulk feeling etc. E.g. Going on runs with my mate's ek civic with minimal mods, me in a v35 manual coupe 245/275 michelin ps2 tires springs shocks swaybars brembos light weight reduction etc and downhill i'm only tiny bit faster (no speeding in straights, just corner fun). Uphill is just not fair as even 3rd gear torque in the v35 would pull away lol. I consider him a better driver than myself. Had he have the same mods as me he would've completely lost me downhill.

Get a HKS mushroom pod, pop that where the factory airbox goes. Make/buy a box and give that box at least one large feed of cold air from under the car or from behind bumper, preferably two. Will be much better than factory airbox imho. You will gain valuable kw's for an n/a engine and the engine will also rev more freely meaning increased acceleration. I see many people saying intake is useless, factory airbox etc but it comes down to personal expectations imho. Just consider the person saying it's useless might be someone that expects at least 20rwkw from a mod or something especially if they have a FI car. I love n/a's myself and have noticed even 5wkw difference and given the chance again, would do all the mods again haha. E.g. On my previous car (v35), alot of people say it's not worth doing intake, just stick with factory box and put in a panel filter and a smoother intake pipe.. i had that for awhile then changed to a HKS cai kit and noticed the difference easily and straight away. Two other passengers did too - Gave very different characterisics.

I was only in a mates r34 25gt tip a week ago and i honestly thought it went ok.. It had good oomph off the mark being 0-60km/h and 2nd gear was ok upto 80 or so then it started losing some steam. Put it this way, i was genuinely suprised after hearing/reading so many naysayers bag out the n/a's. N/a supra's are pretty quick, torquey 3L engine. Beat my then fto with 116fwkw @ 1140kg. Supra just had intake and exhaust. Both of these cars were under 7seconds to 100km/h. I completely lost him in corners though haha. And for you guys saying it handles better blah blah =/ Any half setup lightweight FF car will lose your r3-2/3/4 in touge and you have diddly squat chance mod for handling mod.

Personally i thought the factory option brembos sucked. Even with dot4 fresh bleed/fill and trw lucas pads and the oem pads. Couldn't stop the car for crap with either BS re-01r's or oversize michelin pilot sports.. Pedal feel was horrible too. If i had the money then, i would've put massive stoppers on it or slotted rotors and ds2500pads as a stopgap solution. Weight is the problem methinks, the v35 ain't a light car.

$1k ?? o.0

Berh, $1050 take them away fast easy transaction

Damnit $1200

These wheels are now back in my garage and i would like to move them to make space. They are in very good condition. F: 18x8.5, +30, 245 tires R: 18x9.5, +22, 275 tires Price $1250 firm, come get them. Pics of individual wheels: Fronts Rears:

=/ na is best!

My mate has a spare nismo 3" front pipe for r33...came with the car as spare when purchased so should be for an r33 lol.

Buyer decided on something else. For sale. Sorry for the unintentional spam.

Sold pending pickup during weekend of 26-27 june.

I should've added this... These wheels are advertised on here SAU and 350z-tech forums so it will be first in first served via reply on thread/PM/SMS. Thankyou.

How about a mitsu fto ? Get the one with mivec and manual transmission...suprisingly fast with few bolt ons and handles great, especially with some decent sussy. You're looking at under 1200kg, v6 2L with mivec, 147kw and more. It's fwd but with good tires/sussy has a quite high grip threshold. Also maybe look at civic/crx/integra's with engine swaps etc... civic with b18c2 or better is quite quick etc. Please please take the above recommended cars to track first to learn 'em. Especially the Hondas... some of them are quite prone to lift off oversteer.

Hey all, These rims are back up for sale. The previous buyer is returning them due to a very silly mistake on my behalf. He checked the stickers for the fronts and they were actually +30 offset. Rears however are indeed +22 offset. So i will have these again this sunday night (20th). Price $1300 Edit - he hasn't installed them, he was cleaning the wheels and noticed the sticker, cheers.

The v35 wasn't my first import and i didn't opt for extra warranty - almost useless imho. Modding voids it (why would i buy an import/skyline lol), there's limits to the claim you can do and they can void it if you haven't kept out logbook stamping. I just downloaded a G35 service schedule, purchased oils/fluids from the performance workshop i goto and do things myself or call my personal mechanic and he does harder stuff. Changing oil and filter (i.e. minor service) costed me $130 or so and that was using royal purple oil.. Was cheaper afterwards when i moved to castrol edge oil.

Good point rs73...to be honest i don't think i had many calls from nsw people. Had alot of interstate calls and indeed the car was sold to another state. And yeah the current market is a seller nightmare... otoh when i was shopping for my next toy car i grabbed an absolute bargain because many people are desperate to sell.

Ya'know...two posts up is right whether they were serious or joking ?!? Lol couldn't tell. Anyways, alot of that would actually buff out..and i don't see any panel/bar deformation otherwise a good respray plus blending in won't be much anyways...the shop i goto would charge about $500-600 to do it for me. Good thing on them leaving their details. I had someone bump park my first car ages ago and no details.. had to pay $400 myself to fix it.

Oh forgot to mention..other potential buyers were telling me many V owners were negotiating down to 23k for their rides. I saw two on carsales at 23k and they went really quick.. still beats trading in for under 20k right.. Saw one go quickly too at bit under 26k but that one had some mods/styling that the two 23k ones didn't have. Edit - Car had no major acco history. Paint was in very good condition as was interior. I had original inspection report still from when i purchased car and full set of keys and manuals etc.

Strange...i just sold my V35 less than a month ago guys.. I hope the following info will help some of you guys trying to sell/buy. Car details: 03 pearl white 350gt manual, brembos/lsd, premium, tv+nav, front lip/splash guards, sunroof, 60kms. Had intake, exhaust, tune, shock/spring/bars, performance pads, low temp thermo/plugs, Rays wheels, all fluids changed with performance fluid and good oil servicing etc. I took it into an import dealership that offered $20k on the spot for it so might've been able to get a little more after negotiation? I started the price at 32,999 and only got scammer offers lol. First price drop in 4 days or so to 29,999 and nada, week or so later 28,999, nada, 27,999 and suddenly lots of interest rolled in ?!? The car was sold while still advertised at 27,999. Through negotiation and putting stock wheels back on (so i sold Rays wheels seperately), i let it go for 25,500. This was only 1 month rego left and the stock wheels tire's needed replacing. So all in all, i think it was a fair deal for myself and buyer..probably leaning to slightly better for the buyer but i was happy it was going to a good home. So all in all, it sold in just under 1 month on carsales. I used their premium ad. The car was insured for $35k. I'm sure i could've got more for it if i waited but i'm the impatient type.. Goodluck guys.

Thanks for all the helpful replies guys, much appreciated. This is really good news for my mate, i'll let him know. The reason i asked about changing the boost setting was not to raise the boost but to actually make low boost even lower - just so there was more gap between sedate and arse on fire mode. And yep E85 is on the cards. Thanks all!

Great thanks mate. The cams are stock, just the exhaust cam is adjusted via the cam gear. I think my mate is happy with the power, though if there's a better turbo that gives more mid range and better top end...well that's just win! Is he able to adjust the boost via the pfc without a retune (i.e. do the boost settings all run on one tune/map or each boost setting has it's own correlating map?)

Heya all, Just looking for general opinions on a setup for an r33 my mate recently purchased e.g. it's not making enough power, it's running too high boost, i would change that etc. Basically what to do, what's right for the engine/setup e.g. wind boost down or leave, add more support stuff etc. It's an r33 with a series 1 rb25det. It's been rebuilt 65000 kms ago with new nissan parts like rings, rods, gaskets/hoses etc It's got a boxed pod, z32 afm, gt2871r .86 housing, fmic, head ported, valve guides trimmed (what does this do lol?), tomei valve springs, tomei ex cam gear (retard 4), 3"dump/front, 3.5"exhaust + hfc, 0.050 o/s bore, alloy rad. In terms of support stuff for power, there's a nismo fuel reg, apexi power fc + boost control, some FET coilpacks. It runs high boost 1.25 setting on the pfc hand controller (is this 1.25bar?) and that was around 240kw according to previous owner. Lowest setting is 0.90 on pfc hand controller. The daily setting is 1.1. Opinions & thoughts? Mate is looking for response and average power (i.e. curve) not peak warp speed type power. The car currently seems to run very well and has pretty good response.

To find pcv... at the front of your plenum there is a brass coloured fitting that comes out then turns 90degrees left (as you're standing looking at the engine/bay), it will have a section of 9mm hosing that is attached to it - it goes left, takes a bend downwards and then plugs into the pcv valve sticking out of the cam cover of the left bank (driver side). Need a largish socket to remove the pcv.