Touge Kyousou

Hi all, About to get my swaybars installed tomorrow but don't have any instructions for the rear whiteline swaybar link kit. Is anyone able to tell me how all the bushes, nuts, bolts etc go together? I found this picture in an old thread which gives me a clear picture of what to do for the bottom bit but need to know how the top bit goes into the chassis and where the two round bushes go etc. Please ignore the red arrow and question mark, it's a photo from another member/thread and i know the link needs to be outside of the swaybar ends, Thanks all!

But he doesn't have an LSD atm so shouldn't be fishtailing under normal driving. Ehsan, I shouldn't really give you anymore advice as i've never been to the phillipines nor driven there... and you're driving on bumpy roads at 180?? o.0 Maybe visit a local performance tuner/store and see what they think.. some shop with a good reputation. Don't go S or R compound tires either if the roads have alot of debris/dust etc over them. GL

The lsd will won't allow the rear wheels to spin until both are spinning (in very simple terms)...so instead of the engine wheelspinning one tire, it has to do it to both of your rear tires. Upgrade your tires too, anything s compound will be good for a street driven car that doesn't see too much rain/dusty roads etc. Bigger rims with wider tires will help too. Change your cradle bushes and set them for traction. Get a wheel alignment done and set the rear negative camber to something small (like -'ve 1/2 degree or less). If you have adjustable coilovers/dampers, set them softer or change spring rates to something a little softer if they're hard. That should be a good start to getting traction and as long as the 1j isn't really worked, doing even just some of the above, you should be able to get traction. Edit - playing with cradle bushes, wheel alignment and rear damper/spring rates will affect cornering performance etc. You need to determine how you like to drive it and then mod accordingly e.g. if you like corners too, then do wider rear wheels with S or R compound tires first and an LSD, you will likely not have traction issues then and the car will also corner and drive out of corners much better.

I'm running a gt2781r (equivalent to the hks gt-rs but sr flange lol), and i'm using tomei 550cc injectors. They are at 65% duty cycle though i do have a nismo fpr but it's probably running default/close to default factory pressure. However maybe look at 740's or higher though for future upgrade or making the move to e85. Like said, you won't need a manifold or plenum though the plenum would be nice. From what i've looked up, the forward facing greddy will net around 10rwkw extra up top but lose low/mid torque due to shorter runner lengths. With regards to cams, not too sure you need them to be honest. I've no practical experience with cams on my engine but from these forums, it seems unless you're flowing over 300kwatw, drop in cams will actually hinder performance mid and up top. Someone mentioned headwork too.. my setup gained 10rwkw over the whole rev range from porting the head etc (it was already apart for a rebuild). Oh, should mention i'm sitting on 320hp. The gt-rs should make an oomph more as it'll have the proper t3 flange and being hks lol. Have a look at pm-r33 's build. He's using a gt-rs and pushing it with bolt ons, headwork/cams, nos etc.

Just to be the bad man 'ere... If i was in your situation but with my life experiences so far, i'd hate it but i would probably sell it HOWEVER only to reinvest the money. I'm not that old myself at 26 but have learnt enough to know how i would've done things if the clock was wound back. It really depends where you reside (thus mostly determining real estate opportunities), whether you have the knowledge and balls to enter the stockmarket or whether you have some passionate skills and can use the money to start your own business. Play your games right with real estate, and you can make big returns in several years only (i'm in Sydney so going by Sydney market trends) - big enough to buy you an r34 gt-r and put down a deposit on a house once you sell the investment property or whatever (though you may keep it as an investment, forgo the toy car and also buy your own place *shrugs*). Possibly bigger returns with shares but man you gotta have the balls and skills for it..probably a harder avenue to chase for normal people like me or starting your own business makes alot of sense.. most successful small businesses turn over a decent bit of money and the bottom line is generally pretty good to and the upside is you be your own boss and work whenever you want (though that most likely will be 24/7 haha but you get the luxury of stepping off whenever you want etc). Having the business will allow you to buy pretty much any non exotic car you want and you can then just claim the whole lot on tax too haha...and mods as well (ahem maintenance). Like Terry mentioned, the Gt-r won't depreciate quick, but it still does and you've always got the worry of the engine packing it in necessitating a multi thousand rebuild or what ? Sell it with a dud engine for way less than market value. Like alot of gt-r owners recommend, you really gotta have some money to own one properly whether it's rebuild or modding (having two turbos mean some mods will be almost double price too!). I think i've seen people mentioning having basically 10k aside dedicated to the car. I know i'd rather own a car like a gtr knowing i can do whatever i want to it and restore it etc..$$. Getting engaged is also the start of pretty much throwing your money away as well =/. I'm engaged myself and it goes like this i reckon. Engaged, move into a place together (buy? rent? Bills/groceries/insurance etc), marriage a year later (omg $$), baby (omfg $$) not to mention wife will be off work for at least 1 1/2 year (you better have a high income by then!)! Not saying this is the path you will take but i think in general this is probably one of the more common paths. Fyi, i'm engaged, have just had my first child and am renting a place with the missus near our parents and i have a cheap investment unit. I work in IT in a small company, i want to start my own thing but now's not the time as i need stability with baby being here and all. Prior to this, i had a v35 purchased 2 years ago for $32500 fully owned, and recently sold it for $26000 (spent near 10k on it before rego/insurance etc) to buy all the baby stuff and also for some of the medical bills etc. Also had to buy a family car with it. I'm not showing off or anything (it's not worthy of showing off and i don't care for flaunting) but am simply trying to give you what i think is ok'ish advice/opinion seeing as you did ask for it and all haha. If the above doesn't sit well with you, just ignore it but that's been my life so far. Good luck and all mate. Edit - I see you're in melb...property is pretty ridiculous down there from what i know. The average price is actually higher compared to sydney and i'm sure there are a few suburbs down there that will boom 40-50% in the next few years. There's a couple around sydney. Oh yeah, i do alot of work for real estate businesses so am surrounded with the bullcrap that is the housing of our capital cities (or at least sydney but i'd imagine it'd be much the same in melb).

Preferably in sydney. Let me know, cheers!

There's a bit of info on fixing the varex valve mechanism or i believe you can even order some parts from x-force to fix it as some people have suffered it. A quick google search should turn up some results. GL Ps. I think EPA will pickup on the varex, you'll need to find a stock exhaust and make sure your cat is in healthy working condition before heading to the check.

A che... lol j/k! Uhm, i've only heard good things about the yellow jackets and with split fires...well i think everyone knows they're one of the best. I myself am running the JJR ones but i do know a few people on this 'ere forum have had issues with JJR ones before but justjap have pretty good customer service and will look after you. I only got jjr ones because i got them REALLY cheap. For me, they are performing great - certainly much better than the old set which was a nice set of FETs but getting really old and breaking down.

And thanks for everyone's help! <3 SAU.

Just wanted to update this thread for information purposes. search terms: turbo ticking noise, flange leak, flange leaks, gasket leak, gasket leaks, Turbo's been off and back on. As mentioned, my car runs a t3 to t25 adapter flange to mount a gt2871r. There are no gaskets available for in between the t3 and t25 adapter plates so i got some sheet metal and some tin-snips then voila! Dodgy custom gasket. Whilst doing all this bs we found the turbo's front housing plate.. a bloody bolt had become undone and fallen off! Luckily it was sorta wedged in the engine bay and i screwed it back in and checked the others. So after adding a custom dodgy gasket between the flange adapters and screwing a bolt back in...the car is now running as it should - in fact, better as i replaced the fuel filter and did some other misc work while it was sorta apart. My manifold gasket, studs etc were all ok (good condition) yet i still had that ticking noise/leak. Hope this helps anyone that searches.

Varex... but only because i like sleepers and flying under the radar (and am being neighbor friendly).

Yes indeed! We should now receive carbon offset/discounts on our rego/greenslip/insurance etc etc

Cheers for that mate. Funnily enough, i managed to get the last bolt off the dump pipe with a socket/tool made from 3 different tool-sets lol. It's actually an SR flange though so only 5 bolts (being a gt2871r). I managed to check all 12 studs and they seem ok. Could see there were two or three new studs at the front of the engine and the nuts on those were quite loose so i re-tightened but the ticking noise wasn't coming from the front anyways. Just to clarify though, what is it like when the studs are broken ? Will it be loose etc where i can move it easily-ish with a spanner on it etc and the nut stays on the broken/snapped stud? The ticking noise really did sound like it was coming from the turbo or very nearby. Very minimal shaft play and the compressor blades all look good. Once i pull the turbo off i'll check the exh. wheel and have a closer look at the manifold and it's gasket. Though your ticking sound theory makes alot of sense mystery_kid. I'll make sure to have garden hose etc handy for when i put it back together if the leak is still present.

Or until you have a kid I had a v35 that was a weekender with a fair few mods as far as v35 goes - had to sell it to fund baby stuff... so now it's a 33 as a weekender

WIN! At least...i think, lol.

I'm running a Corolla daily and a 33 weekender and yeah to me it's worth it! I use corolla everyday for work and it's great as its sooo easy and brainless to drive and I don't have to put up with stiff suspension, loud exhaust and not as smooth running behavior from the pfc on the 33 etc. Means I can have the 33 off the road for diy mods/maintenance (like it is ATM lol) and it also feels better when I do actually drive it. As for costs, for me the corolla is adding $35 in expenses per week so it's hardly anything. The corolla also uses half the fuel (in 91 octane!) of the 33 and I need to replace the o2 sensor soon. I do pretty much tick the whole of Terry's checklist above except for maybe the last point.

SOB, hope it's not studs/exhaust manifold gasket. The engine was rebuilt 70 thou ago and the exhaust manifold gasket still looks quite new but i will have a closer look at it once the turbo's off. Turbo's almost off.. all piping etc removed. Just need to get to one PITA nut on the dump pipe then remove the 1 piece dump/front pipe. I'm hoping it's just the t3-t25 adapter itself - it's a two piece design with a t3 piece and a t25 piece with 4 allen bolts holding the two pieces together however there's no gasket in between the two flanges. I think i can see some remnants of gasket goo between the flanges and here's the problem..i don't think there is a gasket for the 2piece adapter so might just try and get away with some form-a-gasket stuff. There's two new genuine t3 and t25 gasket flanges on both ends of the adapter so it shouldn't be those though i wouldn't be sad if it were as it'll be an easy fix. Also looks like i won't need to remove the water and oil lines as i can drop the turbo slightly down and then remove the flange adapter for inspection/repair etc.

Thanks for the replies. The oil line is braided but uncertain on the water line.. I'll need to have a look again. The turbo is still making boost as usual but also a loutish ticking noise. When on boost it also sounds like theres a screamer pile so yeah hope it's leak. The dump flange gasket looks ok. It seems to be coming from somewhere around the t3 to t25 adapter flange (2 piece system) I'll pickup some gasket goo for the 2 pei es of adapter flange and may as well coat the other. (fresh) gaskets. Cheers!

Hey all, Posting on my phone so apologie for spelling and structure etc I need to remove the turbo from my 33 due to gasket/flange leaks etc or at less thats what I hope it is instead if a blown turbo.. It's making tractor like noises but anyways.. For when I remote the oil and water line.. They are nit pressurized lines are they? And do they just unscrew/slip off etc? It's a Garrett gt2871r turbo. Thanks guys. Should mention in mechanically minded but haven't removed a turbo before.

Pretty easy to get traction with GTRS turbo though..

Ggrrrrraaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhh... I want more response damnit. gtx2871r + e85 would be my setup IF the gtx28 ever comes out.. perfect opportunity to swap to e85 with a new turbo

But it just sounds sooo nasty My mate got some replacement tires on a car he was selling awhile ago...po young lol - couldn't even grip his 1st or 2nd in a 180kw wrx (so 4wd!). And yeah...with your user name, i thought you'd be rolling around in re55s etc! From what people are saying, it sounds like these hero tires are decentish though

I think some cars add fuel and timing individually.. i.e. coolant temp sensor affects ignition timing and air intake sensor affects afr.

If you get a good enough grip on the nut with the tool, you can then use a low scissor jack to push/move the tool to break the probably rusted/seized contact/threads of the bolt. Or a breaker bar/bar extension etc but i would prefer using the scissor jack to move the tool as it will have alot more control - you are under a car after all. Have fun Edit - and wd40 that sucker like mentioned above.

It could and has worked before.. you just gotta know what it actually tries to do so you don't expect too much. Generally these resistor/chip/box mods will tap into the coolant temp sensor and lower/raise the resistance value fed into the ecu (depending on the type of sensor you have - some go higher when hotter whereas some go lower when hotter), then once the ecu picks up that the car is supposedly running in a cool environment, it will advance the ignition timing to suit equaling more power. The main thing it depends on is your OEM ecu having ignition timing advance for colder situations - if the ecu has that and you install this crap correctly, then it will work to an extent.. much like driving some bog stock normal car in 10degree night weather vs a hot summer day (taking into account the air is less o2 rich during your testing the device vs driving during a really cold night and also heatsoak). You can potentially save fuel by having to be on the gas a little less going up hills or maintaining speed etc as your car will have slightly more torque so you do not need to depress the throttle as much as before the 'mod'. Long as you have basic electronics understanding, how car systems/ecu works etc, you can do this for a couple of bucks (buy a pot to see which resistance value gives best results then buy a simple resistor in that value). While it may seem like i'm giving this a good rep.. nope not at all (not saying it won't work either because done right it will as long as your ecu has timing advance for colder running situations, a coolant temp sensor and a conservative factory tune). But it's sometimes nice to know the theory behind things.