Touge Kyousou

It does add up quick unfortunately, especially if you build it right the first time.. but generally doing it right the first time ends up being cheapest in the long run anyways. It seriously comes down to what your intended purpose for the car is, e.g. if you just want the power for dragstrip action, don't worry about the brakes, tires, ebc etc but if you want it for circuit then brakes and tires are almost a must with that power level along. Anyways for brakes, what Hanaldo said again.. generally rda is a bit cheaper than dba so 4 slotted rdas to suit gtst along with some good pads would be a great bang for buck upgrade. Your tires may need attentioning too =/ The HDCB clutch will hold that power level fine

OP, Hanaldo saying adjusting the wastegate actuator as close as possible also works , you are generally limited to running one boost settings like this though, but less hassles, less failure points and electronics and less exposed flashy items in cabin and engine bay. Here's a great thread on ebc's btw, if you wanted to read a bit more http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/229928-dyno-graphs-comparing-pfc-boost-controll-vs-blitz-idiii/page__hl__apexi%20pfc%20boost%20controller%20vs

A good EBC will easily outperform 95% of mbc's out there. Only a few mbc's have as good turbo response as an ebc. Depending on your tuning approach, you can get basic ebc that just have several boost profiles and gain setting (holds the wastegate shut) for best possible turbo response, all the way up to fancy ones that have settings overkill and can do funky stuff like gear/speed/rpm/throttle based boost for traction etc along with logging of data and intake air temp adjustment. Just make sure you get a good ebc and you prolly won't look back (there's plenty of threads on sau detailing good ones). For a jjr stealth cooler kit, check this out http://justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=19944&cat=339&page=1 (just spray the clamps black as well after installing). Supposedly the oem coilpacks are just as good as splitfires when they are brand new ?? So you should be good there then. Oh forgot to say as well, if you don't have any current brake upgrades, you'll definitely want to set aside some money for that as well. Hope this helps dude.

P.s. you might need new coilpacks too when you up the boost, if you're still on factory coilpacks (you didn't mention). GL!

+1 on ditching the FPR and getting larger injectors too. Once it's all installed you'll need a retune and that may be a good time to move to e85 as well if you can get easy access to it. More power so you can reach your target power goal easier and give your engine some safety from knocking. +1 on a jjr cooler too, great guys to deal with and the stuff is at least decent quality. Also, have stealth cooler kits, and you can even get a return flow for extra stealth but you do lose a bit of airflow with the it compared to the traditional setup. Could i suggest ditching the mbc and getting a good ebc as well ? Better boost control and you can get gain for more turbo response. Oh, you might wanna budget some money for tires too, you'll need some s or r compounds to hold that power, unless of course you just want to fry tires and slide everywhere

Hey guys, Thanks for reading and answering my thread, much appreciated I returned to my original mechanic today as he asked me to swing around so he could have a look at it and it was fixed in 5 minutes huzzah! Artz, What you described is bang on with what was happening with my car. Anyways, last night i cleaned the aac valve as per this thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/110431-diy-aac-valve-cleaning-idle-reset/page__st__100 Took the car to a workshop today and after 5 minutes playing with the idle screw on the aac valve/housing, the idle no longer hunts! We basically just let the car warm up, then turned the screw to one extreme and work back and forth from there, testing now and then with poking throttle then back off, touch the brakes and clutch in. Maybe worthwhile cleaning the aac too if you by chance haven't done it ? Hope this helps and your problem turns out as simple as mine.

Hey SAU, Couple of days ago i picked up my r33 gtst with a second hand motor as i blew the previous motor again. Car is running perfectly except it idle hunts on clutch in. What will happen is cold start is fine, then once the temp hits normal, drive then clutch in and the revs will go to 2k for a brief moment, then drop to 1.5k where it hunts between 1k and 1.5k, after a random amount of seconds, the idle will then smoothly move down to 850rpm and stay there. Once it hits 850 rpm it will stay there till next take off/clutch in etc. Note it never goes below 850rpm. I have searched and found the aac issue so that's been cleaned but didn't make a difference unfortunately. The car did sit for around a year until i got the engine swap done but was started a few times to prevent things clogging up like injectors etc. I did find some stuff about apexi PFC idle learning but i don' have datalogit so can't perform the procedure without losing my tune. Would the pfc need to perform the idle learning procedure as the engine has been swapped, even though all mods are the same ? Car idled perfectly for the last two engines and i know the previous engine swap had the ecu retuned as it got moved to e85 then. Mods are apexi pfc garrett gtrs intake, fmic, z32, coilpacks, copper plugs, tbe, 740cc injectors That's about it that would affect idle. Thanks

Ahh ok. I have an ethanol test kit actually but thought someone might've known off the top of their head but all good. Car's going into mechanics in a few weeks so i'll test the fuel then, as it'll be getting a retune for the fuel again after being off the road for a year

Anyone know the current ethanol content for caltex e-flex ? I would be getitng it from tempe or kirrawee. Thanks.

Hey SAU, So it's been about a year since i've left here and the Sydney car scene in general thanks to the car line killing a replacement motor 2 days after it was dropped in.. So some ppl were telling me it's now harder to get blue slips etc ? Anyone know anything about this ? The line's been off the road and registration has lapsed so i will need a guaranteed blueslip before i start sourcing another motor and handing dosh over to a mechanic again. The whole car scene seems pretty dead too, what happened ?? I hardly see imports (in particular skylines) on the road anymore. Quick browse of carsales shows under 1000 skylines for sale! It used to be 4000+ lol. I did see a *really* neat silver 32 gtr vspec2 this morning on king georges rd beverly hills though, that gave me a chubby (and please replace the bonnet spoiler, car was immaculate except for the missing bonnet lip haha). Thanks all.

Heh heh, pass but thanks.

Replied via SMS, cheers. Oh may as well put on here, Tomei's are not in a rail or anything. Six injectors in a box. Thanks.

Thanks Tridentt. With the potential of finding more damage like you just mentioned, i think i'm gonna sell/wreck the car then. The second motor was the last attempt to keep it and i can't justify spending anymore at all on it. How much do you think i should ask/get for it? Currently gear on it is silicone intake pipe + pod, plastic air box, gt2871rs turbo, z32afm, fmic, coilpacks, custom crap front dump, high flow cat, 3.5" x-force catback with varex end muffler, exhaust cam gear, alloy radiator, nismo fuel reg, 044 pump in tank, oil catch can, apexi PFC with HC and boost sensor, Gizzmo MS-IBC ebc, exedy lightweight flywheel and custom built clutch. hks springs/bilstein shocks, whiteline front rear adjustable sways, front rear strut bars, hicas lock, dba4000 rotors, steel brake lines and a small stereo system. shell @ 207xxx, rear/boot stripped and blueslipped as 2 seater. Heck, they can take the dead built motor too if they pick it up from the mechanics lol. Crappest luck this year bah

Thanks for the replies so far Tridentt and insert. Yeah i've been doing a fair bit of searching and reading and found a very rough process from a very old post on SAU. Doesn't seem too hard and will be a good learning process as i want to learn how to do major services and taking the head off will go beyond that. If i do decide to fix it myself vs sell or wreck it, i would definitely get the head checked and machined, i understand this isn't much anyways and any head servicing place can do it ? Could i have enough bad luck to have warped the block too though or is that insanely hard on the iron rb? Cheers guys.

Note Mods: I posted the below in projects but think it's the wrong place and it hasn't been approved by a mod yet. Maybe here is a better section for it. Feel free to delete/move/do whatever trickery thanks. Hi all, looking for some guidance on what to do with my car. 95 r33 gtst, blew built engine recently, put in a second hand motor, drove for 1 day, thermostat stopped working, overheated and blew head gasket likely. Telltale symptoms are white smoke on idle and water/coolant spitting out from the exhaust for the blown HG. Car also idles upto 80+degrees and the top hose gets hot but the bottom hose stays cold (so stuck thermostat i guess). Radiator is an alloy unit and almost positive not blocked. Am quite poor nowaways due to family and commitments and just spent a lot dropping the second hand motor in. Where should i go from here? Either sell it/wreck it or do another f*cking motor and get it back on the road again. I'm fairly confident with doing my own work but have never opened an engine before (but am keen). I have limited garage space but do have a decent collection of tools etc. I also still have the dead built motor at the mechanics and the BHG motor is of course still in car and running. What's my best option in your opinion? Pull head off and replace headgasket on standard motor? Do i need to get the head machined for this seeing as it is probably warped from the overheating and BHG or is the head likely no good to reuse because it's warped? Head on the built motor isn't warped but may have a dead valve or two from when a piston failed so that's always an option (get it refreshed and reuse maybe if it's not too buggered). Tried to keep post as short as possible sorry. And i would REALLY appreciate any and all help. I've drained myself $ keeping this car and it's one of only few things that keeps me sane/happy and feel ultra passionate about. I'll have a fair few questions to follow likely once i get some guidance on what to do, all to do with doing the work myself or whether something is suitable i guess (for example is a warped head reusable ). Many

Note Mods: I posted the below in projects but think it's the wrong place and it hasn't been approved by a mod yet. Maybe here is a better section for it. Feel free to delete/move/do whatever trickery thanks. Hi all, looking for some guidance on what to do with my car. 95 r33 gtst, blew built engine recently, put in a second hand motor, drove for 1 day, thermostat stopped working, overheated and blew head gasket likely. Telltale symptoms are white smoke on idle and water/coolant spitting out from the exhaust for the blown HG. Car also idles upto 80+degrees and the top hose gets hot but the bottom hose stays cold (so stuck thermostat i guess). Radiator is an alloy unit and almost positive not blocked. Am quite poor nowaways due to family and commitments and just spent a lot dropping the second hand motor in. Where should i go from here? Either sell it/wreck it or do another f*cking motor and get it back on the road again. I'm fairly confident with doing my own work but have never opened an engine before (but am keen). I have limited garage space but do have a decent collection of tools etc. I also still have the dead built motor at the mechanics and the BHG motor is of course still in car and running. What's my best option in your opinion? Pull head off and replace headgasket on standard motor? Do i need to get the head machined for this seeing as it is probably warped from the overheating and BHG or is the head likely no good to reuse because it's warped? Head on the built motor isn't warped but may have a dead valve or two from when a piston failed so that's always an option (get it refreshed and reuse maybe if it's not too buggered). Tried to keep post as short as possible sorry. And i would REALLY appreciate any and all help. I've drained myself $ keeping this car and it's one of only few things that keeps me sane/happy and feel ultra passionate about. I'll have a fair few questions to follow likely once i get some guidance on what to do, all to do with doing the work myself or whether something is suitable i guess (for example is a warped head reusable ). Many

Hi all, looking for some guidance on what to do with my car. 95 r33 gtst, blew built engine recently, put in a second hand motor, drove for 1 day, thermostat stopped working, overheated and blew head gasket likely. Telltale symptoms are white smoke on idle and water/coolant spitting out from the exhaust for the blown HG. Car also idles upto 80+degrees and the top hose gets hot but the bottom hose stays cold (so stuck thermostat i guess). Radiator is an alloy unit and almost positive not blocked. Am quite poor nowaways due to family and commitments and just spent a lot dropping the second hand motor in. Where should i go from here? Either sell it/wreck it or do another f*cking motor and get it back on the road again. I'm fairly confident with doing my own work but have never opened an engine before (but am keen). I have limited garage space but do have a decent collection of tools etc. I also still have the dead built motor at the mechanics and the BHG motor is of course still in car and running. What's my best option in your opinion? Pull head off and replace headgasket on standard motor? Do i need to get the head machined for this seeing as it is probably warped from the overheating and BHG or is the head likely no good to reuse because it's warped? Head on the built motor isn't warped but may have a dead valve or two from when a piston failed so that's always an option (get it refreshed and reuse maybe). Tried to keep post as short as possible sorry. And i would REALLY appreciate any and all help. I've drained myself $$ keeping this car and it's one of only few things that keeps me sane/happy and feel ultra passionate about. I'll have a fair few questions to follow likely once i get some guidance on what to do, all to do with doing the work myself or whether something is suitable i guess (for example is a warped head reusable ). Many

Forgot about this thread! Bump and price drop. Tomei 555cc's x 6 for $400 Factory auto rail + Injectors for $60 Thanks.

Kickboxing and thai boxing here. On and off for a long time and just recently gotten back into it and am loving it! I've never been in a street fight myself, or even been in a situation where i thought i might need it (i'm quite boring and don't club/pub etc). I started doing it in highschool and for awhile it was all macho and YEAH I'MA SMASH YOU but as i've grown up, it's now just a hobby, fitness thing, release, pushing myself and connecting my mind and body better etc. Even though i'm doing a hard style, i still get inner peace and happiness from it and it calms me a lot which is handy. I also used to be a gym junkie and agree it can seem hard to mix the two and also think that too big/bulky slows you down but i also believe there's a good balance - you need to have some strength and "padding" when doing hard style martial arts. To the above OP, there are a lot of people that know how to fight but don't project a predator/don't f with me image as well. It's just not worth it really is it? Flight over fight, see another day. Douches carrying knives and guns, douches with backup mates around the corner, knobs that don't know when to stop and seriously hospitalise/kill people. Accidents like knocking someone out and they hit the pavement wrong and die. I have for a long time carried less respect for people who practice martial arts and intend on using it in a fight. I guess i follow the whole respect/compassion thing being half chinese. Not saying i can fight either (some of you guys in this thread would whoop my arse!), but i try to be quite transparent when in public and not get any bad attention and don't really walk with confidence. Maybe it's a personality thing? I used to be quite shy as a kid and was the only child and being asian parents was quite sheltered. Edit - at some point in my life, i want to really get into a soft martial art. Has anyone here done one? A famous example would be tai chi i gues.

It's sad to see others suffer from nose problems, it seriously affects our quality of life. I've had nasal issues since very young, younger than 10 yo from memory and to date have had 3 operations on my nose. I'm 27 now but haven't had an operation since highschool i think. Bit of background i don't drink at all (hardly ever and only 1 or 2 max when i do) and don't smoke. Don't drink coffee either. I had the full tests done and was not allergic to anything, saw various ENT specialists and it basically comes down to polyps and infection from me. Almost my whole life, i've blown green mucus from my nose (too much info?) even when i'm perfectly fit and healthy. The colour doesn't even change when i have a cold or flu lol. For all the operations i've had to remove polyps and tidy up, they have eventually grown back. I hope this doesn't happen to any of you guys who are going to get the operation So pointers from me with your nasal/blocked annoying nose.. -Nasal irrigation! Do it everyday like a religion, it has helped many people and some people have been able to stop prescription medicine completely thanks to nasal irrigation. Basically, you flush out your nose with a ph balanced clean water. You can buy kits that it a lot easier and come with lots of satchels to mix in your filtered/clean water to make it Ph balanced so you don't sting the crap outta your nose. I use a kit made my NeilMed, available at some pharmacies and it's really helped me. The one i have is a neti pot that relies on gravity to push the water in one hole and out the other. They also have a pressurised pump system which works better - i'm going to get this when i pass the pharmacy i got the neti pot kit from. To the people who constantly blow out a lot of crap from their nose, while doing the nasal cleaning try and blow your nose with your head tilted 90 degrees sideways. This allows A LOT more crap to be blown out.. sometimes more than 1 tissue can hold that's folded over once... yeah it's disgusting sorry. -You can buy nasal spray cleanse/pump thingos that basically lubricant a dry nose and allow you to clear out the dust and crap inside plus blow it all out. FESS is a well known one. These are mostly a saline solution non addictive type so you can use it as many times as you want. It's just Ph balanced water like the above kit so once your FESS runs out, just make your own solution and refill If you don't even want to buy the refill satchels to make the solution with the above NeilMed kits, you can botch it up with water, salt and soda from memory. -When your nose is really blocked and you can feel your polyps or sinus whatever clogging up and putting pressure on various parts of your face/head, i think it's worth using over the counter nasal spray to give you upto 12hours of perfect clear open nose. You avoid a lot of headaches and migraines this way and can also feel how nice it is to be normal. Otrivin and Drixine are the two i use. These are supposed to be used only up to 3 days or so consecutively. What i do is once in awhile change which one i use so i don't overdo the Otrivin or Drixine - they have slightly different active chemicals. I also use less than what they recommend so am using a smaller amount of the stuff e.g. the drixine box says adult upto 3 pumps per nostril but i only ever use 1 pump and even use a tissue straight after sometimes to quickly absorb some of the med. -Some people have reported after several weeks of not eating anything dairy, their blocked nose went away. I haven't tried this one.. -Exercise sometimes clears my noise temporarily. You can also take this chance to perform nasal irrigation as the water will actually have a pathway to flow and do it's thing. -If you feel your nasal lining etc is getting raw/damaged from meds/sprays, you can get aloe vera sprays for your nasal passages/lining. -Steriodal nasal sprays: I've been on rhinocourt and the stuff helps my nose stay mostly clear up until bedtime. There's a newer one that other people have had more success with called Nasonex. Try both and see which works better for you. I hope this helps at least one person.

Non responding buyer so the tomei 555cc's are back up for sale.

Tomei 555cc's sold pending pickup and payment on thursday.

Hey all. 1: Tomei 555cc injectors to suit rb25det. Removed by workshop as going bigger. They worked perfect upon removal but are a little dirty so could just do with a wipe down. $480 2: Factory rb25det auto injectors and fuel rail. $100 3: Nismo r33 gtst-t front pipe. Some scrapes on the lowest side and it seems to be *just* ever so slightly not round where the scrapes are. $40 I'll get some photos up later if anyone's interested. In sydney hurstville area, pickup ok or can post (buyer pays postage) but can usually only post things on saturday due to work commitments. Thanks

Q: Being it's E80 but knowing that Caltex will revert to e70 later on, do i ask my tuner to tune it slightly leaner or richer to compensate for the future change back to e70 that caltex will implement. Unfortunately i only have a pfc so no funky ethanol content sensor here.

Sydney Tempe site is now E80. I asked the servo attendant and he said 80%, then went home and tested and yup. Can't wait till the car has the engine in and tuned! Have 40L of the stuff waiting in jerry cans hehe.