Touge Kyousou

Thanks for the advice all! I will try my luck and see. Yep Mavric had a contact that makes them but they're not available anymore. It was a fair few years ago.. Edit - i should state Mavric was the original supplier of the bars and they were sold in very limited numbers. I love exclusivity (oh wait, i drive an r33 ..)

I know..i've had so much sh!t happen to me lately i'm surprised /wrist hasn't come across my mind yet bah, lol. The bar is a very smooth, lightweight design with perfect fit. This pic shows it off quite nicely

3076? I suspect you'll be making a fair bit more than 240!

As title, some c#nthead backed into my car, cracking the fibreglass front bar and cracking the paint etc. No note from the culprit of course, but a nice lady saw it all and wrote me a note on my car containing the douche's rego plate only. Not being a car enthusiast, she couldn't tell make/model. I have already lodged an incident with the police and they will do what they can though i don't have too much confidence in it getting anywhere but fingers crossed. There's no point going through insurance as the excess will pretty much pay for the repair. Any ideas? Fecking ghey, my car has a banana bar on it too (which i love and there's only about 15 or so in the world/all in oz).

In my almost 2 years of V ownership, i haven't had problems with rear end traction.. I would recommend tires or tires/wheels, LSD, and sussy. My car was hardish to step out sideways - 275 michelin pilot sport ps2 (damn good tire), the manual's viscous lsd, springs/shocks/swaybars. Check your tire pressures too.. and your wheel alignment incl camber and toe.

Option1 garage have had these on their websites for awhile with pricing and all ?

It seems to be rusted through at this one spot only (i presume from a water leak at one point) so will definitely need to goto a shop. I do know a shop that can do it however their work has dropped a bit in quality over the last several years unfortunately which is a shame as it used to be top notch.. however i might use them anyways seeing as i won't even be able to see the repair at all considering it's to the floorpan and there shouldn't be any paint etc involved..i'd just get it galved afterwards. Ramps would be good wackydee. If it was me, i'd use a trolleyjack to raise it then also put jackstands underneath for if the trolleyjack fails. Like said, you can get ok jackstands from autobarn etc. There were some recent recall on repco ratchet stands so keep that in mind (failed and crushed someone to death from what i read on here). Anyone else that's had this done?

Frigging tops... Now where's that revolution. While everyone's official stance is not to speed and drive safely... a golden rule like that never ever works in the real world...there may just be an instance where someone needs to momentarily get out of real danger, or safely minimise overtaking times etc. I suppose it's a downside of living in a nice developed country like ours albeit a large-ish downside...still better than getting shot and bombed at =/ Big brother really does suck.

Ah man that sucks... i had a similar incident where a small truck almost reversed into my mazda back then (brand new mps3 too) but luckily he managed stop about a foot away from my headlights. Well as long as you have his name number, address, phone, details etc then your insurance won't make you pay the excess if you're comprehensively insured, they will basically pester and annoy him till he coughs up (my missus works in claims hoho) and eventually pass it onto a debt collector to pester him lol.. Crap like this is why my line has an air horn in it.. At least it's only a love tap of an accident in the end.

Heya all. Recently noticed some rust on the floorpan of one of my cars and just looking for a good place to take it to that won't charge me my unborn and a kidney.. Any suggestions sydney skyliners? If you can post up roughly the amount of work done and cost that would be really beneficial. Cheers!

I checked for myself for my next purchase (on another forum)..should share that people have recently been paying around $300 USD for 4 tires shipped to Aus with delivery times of around 4 business days after payment clears.

Bump for a great thread! I just got mine done today and as follows gts-t f/r - 245/45/17 ku36 Purpose - touge mainly then street but with compromise for tire wear. Front: Castor 7 deg Toe out 1.4mm total (0.7mm per side) Camber -1.5 deg per side 37psi cold Rear: Toe in 1mm (0.5mm per side) Camber -1.2 deg per side 35psi cold HKS springs f/r, bilstein shocks valved +25%, stock sways. Really like how the car drives. Turns in good, very good mid corner front end grip. Rear end is nice and predictable with lots of feedback.

Hey all, I have 4 x Marangoni Mythos tires i wanna get out of my garage. These were taken off my car yesterday. 2 at 85%, 2 at 60% (4x235/45/17). So alot of tread left basically. One of them has had an internal puncture repair performed internally professionally. Reason for changing them with so much tread left was i bought the car with them already on but i like running S compound semis myself. They are pretty good tires, note results from a Motor mag test few years ago below. Held my 250rwkw long as car was pointing straight and you WOT off boost so the rear end squatted for traction in second gear. $180 pick up only, st.george area sydney. No pics sorry because they are wrapped up from the tire shop. Google images will show tread pattern, it's directional. First "i'll take it" post has preference. The contenders: Bridgestone Potenza RE050A Dunlop SP Sport Maxx Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 Maxxis MA-Z1 Marangoni Mythos Falken FK 452 Dry handling: Dunlop 47.2 secs Goodyear 47.3 Maxxis 47.3 Marangoni 47.4 Bridgestone 47.5 Falken 47.9 Lateral G-Force: Bridgestone 0.78g Goodyear 0.74 Dunlop 0.74 Falken 0.72 Marangoni 0.72 Maxxis 0.71 Dry braking 100km/h-0: Goodyear 37.5 metres Bridgestone 37.8 Marangoni 38.2 Falken 40.2 Maxxis 40.6 Dunlop 40.8 Wet braking 60km/h-0: Bridgestone 20.0 metres Falken 21.6 Dunlop 21.8 Goodyear 22.0 Maxxis 22.0 Marangoni 22.9 Final results (grip, feel, balance, cost, score): 6th Maxxis (7, 6, 4, $400, 17/30) 5th Dunlop (7, 7, 5, $378, 19/30) 4th Falken (8, 6, 5, $290, 19/30) 3rd Goodyear (8, 7, 7, $288, 22/30) 2nd Bridgestone (8, 7, 8, $278, 23/30) 1st Marangoni (9, 8, 9, $350, 26/30)

For the new crop of S compound tires (ad08, re11, ku36 and dz-03), the ku36 seems to have the best dry grip/mid corner grip however steering response/initial turn in isn't up to par but bang for buck, the ku36's definitely win and they are the first S compound tire rack have tested to exceed 1.0G lateral grip on a skidpan. I was also pricing up a set of 235/45/17 in ku36 and they come to around $190 a corner fitted/balanced, dirt cheap! Federal 595rs-r's from a bob jane that tends to look after me were $270. RT615s in 245/45/17 were $250 though imho the ku36's are better with much more dry grip though the rt615s were quite good in the wet. (Prices fitted/balanced) No idea on prices for r1r sorry, but have read they are quite good. option1garage have some cheap s compounds (rsrs and ku36) while tire rack will have the other stuff like re11 and ad08 etc. I've never used tire rack but will use them for my next set. People have reported 4 day delivery times after payment received and the prices are fantastic compared to Aussie shops.

wow... =/ Too hard to give exact info on sussy setup over the intewebz as so much is personal preference. If it was me, i'd do both swaybars. If you do the front only, like mentioned it will cause the front to understeer upon turn in/mid corner but however you will be able to put more power down after midcorner/exit if you drive it as the inside front wheel will lift, causing your car's weight to then be placed on 3 wheels instead of 4 meaning more pressure/weight on the driving wheels at the rear (for the gt-t). Having a super stiff front bar only will also throw things off balance and increase road harshness. You're kidding yourself if you think swaybars don't increase road harshness as any independent bump your car goes over, the swaybar will link both sides of the car's suspension (in your case, the coilovers) to that single bump reducing it's ability to absorb/control that shock/bump. Ideally for a road going car that see's some track work, you won't use super stiff coilover/spring shock combo but something suited to aussie roads and tracks (which aren't super smooth anyways from alot of reports) and then use swaybars to control that body roll and weight transfer. A race car will be a different story as alot of them have more than sufficient spring resistance to counter body roll, they are generally stripped so there's not much weight and they are setup quite low and have modified lower roll centre/balance. By running a softer/appropriate spring shock/coilover, you will maximise tire contact over bumps/undulations meaning in general more traction/acceleration while the swaybars will control body roll. Depending on your own driving style/environment, a little body roll is good too. However bear in mind too soft a spring/coilover will have you pitching like mad under heavy brake/power down once again affecting weight transfer. Sussy setup is such a black art at times, and unless you have the money and time to try every possible combo you want, you really need to research and make your own decision or goto a reputable sussy setup shop and liase with them. I am in no means claiming to be a suspension engineer/expert, but am simply sharing my thoughts on how my cars have reacted to various setups/mods (my preference for settings is touge friendly first, then street then track). Btw, i've seen reports of people upgrading swaybars f/r and not helping track times, obviously you need to drive the car too. And you also need to have tires matched to your setup and driving style/needs. +1 on Sydneykids posts, i've only glanced over a couple but they read solid.

Ahh but off the line is half the fun =). Yep i know a quick gts-t is only equal to a quick-ish gt-r hence wanting to try out a quick gt-r haha. Alot harder and more money involved to get a rwd fast off the line and then you run a custom drag setup which sucks for any other application. Someone mentioned peak power for track duties...you'd still want good power curve even for track. Peak power is only one small point on your power curve. And yeah that torque figure is a bit sus...torque like that should give a much higher peak power reading unless your torque curve suddenly dies in the arse near the top end. Pm-r33, is your dyno posted up ? I'd love to have a squiz at it (if it is posted up i.e. understand some poeple don't like sharing too much).

The way i see it, power is a by-product of torque so i look at power anyways BUT at rpm points. I don't just refer to peak power - it's area under the curve that wins, not just peak power. My 3rd gear pushes my innards back and makes my body/fot instinctively want to lift off the throttle lol, it's.. interesting. Second gear i'm too tensed up and it's over quite quick especially now that i'm getting traction with better tires. I would luurrvvveee to feel the pull from a 350+awkw gt-r though! End of the day, my main driving is mountain runs so power delivery behaviour and average power is what i like. My car's a weekender if that makes any difference.

o0o o0o, i will try these next, cheers. Where do you get yours from if you don't mind ? I'm liking the ku36s, just the short drive home and to me, they're way ahead of rt615s i've had before (albeit on a different car).

Sussy is hks springs f/r and bilstein shockies valved +25%. I realised the wheels can just squeeze a 245 on so managed to get some 245/45/17 ku36's put on today. Need to get a proper wheel alignment with toe/camber/caster during the week. I had a look at the Nittos but couldn't see who sold them ? And on the Nitto website it seems the nt-05 are discontinued.

Thanks all. Looks like i need to look at stickier stuff. Probably s compound semi slick cut. Damn ku36's for being out of stock!

Just a quick question for user/previous user of Kumho KU31 tires.. What tire width did you have, power level of your line and whether it held second gear or not? Trying to determine whether they'll be suitable for my skyline.. i can only mount a max 235 tire on my wheels and am wondering if a 235 KU31 will hold my 2nd gear (250rwkw). Currently using marangoni mythos and my second just kills these tires. Cheers guys! (I would get KU36 but australia is out of stock till new year for my size sigh).

For me it'd be turbo startlet or mitsu fto/fast honda/4age corolla of some sort.

Depends on your product/foam but it can get most off, the trade off for contact-less washing. Truck foam wash will get most if not all off for a really dirty car.

In my posts earlier in this thread, it mentions i bought 350z swaybars for my v35 and they fitted perfectly.. The V feels good after sways, shocks springs/coilovers and wider f/r track with good rubber. It'll never be a handling monster but it does pretty well with those mods.

Didn't realise there were some anal line owners hah! If you're super fussed, get the gear to do foam washes and then learn to sheet the water off your car to dry and blot dry with a waffle weave MF towel. Complete contact-less wash though you'll still need a good detail every year or so to get rid of tar spots etc which will involve contact via a clay bar then you'll likely follow up with machine correction/polish. There are many great products out there besides FI products too. For several posts up mentioning not being able to dry the car quick enough, if your paint is in good nick (i.e. doesn't have much surface contaminants like road tar, tree sap etc and there is a good layer of sealant/wax on it), you will be able to use water to dry 90% of the car. Simply youtube search for how to do it (here's one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=myG7hcb09KE). Then for the 10% of water remaining, just use a good absorbent towel to blot dry (i.e. do not apply wiping action, just keep blotting the water).