Touge Kyousou

Get rid of that vdc shiz! Unplug the power to the ABS unit next time you track it. Any upgrade in suspension will usually demand better tires if your tires are crap to start with. It's not till you start using good stuff that you can then start customising your sussy/setup to suit personal preference.

Cheers for the info. Good idea on wrapping the factory pipe over an alloy one too, hrmm! I was looking at getting a silicone intake pipe in black though so should still look fairly harmless, and being silicone shouldn't make noises anymore hektik.. Ahh on a vq. I agree on no difference with air going down the turbo however the factory design of the intake pipe between an br25 and a vq25 would be vastly different i'd daresay e.g. one is happy to flow decent whereas the other may not. E.g. on my v35, that intake pipe had a large and a smallish resonator tee'd off for NVH whereas a skyline from the 90's probably wasn't as focused on NVH. Damnit, now i'm looking at intake pipe, plenum, and retune blargh! (i'll do it later)

Had a regu06 on my v35... like many have said it is quiet puttering around but loud and horn when giving it. Best exhaust i've ever had on my cars actually..

Cheers mate - What engine/setup was that on i.e. Your vq or on an rb motor? Yeah thought the tune would need to be tweaked... i might leave it then as i'm pretty happy with the power anyways. When i do change it eventually i'll do it at the same time with a forward facing plenum and a retune to suit. WOMG DOSE!

Interested in this myself. I'm currently running 250rwkw on the standard pipe and have always wondered if it's upto the job. It's been reinforced with some pvc piping but there's a pretty nasty bend in it and the bend isn't reinforced. Having less length of the 2.5" piping will increase flow and i'm sure the aftermarket piping will have a smoother internal make up and most important a smooth bend whilst not collapsing at all under vacuum. I wonder if changing the pipe will bring enough difference to require a retune as that's whats holding me back from changing the pipe (and a couple other higher priority items i want to replace).

Gorgeous front bar! My personal fav on r33 as it really does suit the smooth lines/curves unlike all the other aftermarket front bars that are angular cut pos' (imho). Have one on my 33, these look fantastic from the side too peeps.

But only when you piggyback 50 TBI pods into your intake!

/barf

Hrmm fair enough.. if it was myself, i wouldn't be worrying too much about a 10kw discrepency but if you say it feels much slower. If it was me, i'd quickly chuck that factory exhaust on and remove the boost gauge, reset and test. Could be your ecu doing dicky things like the above mentioned. Checked intake/filter condition and cleared it out with upper engine cleaner? What's the air intake temp sensor reading when doing the dyno runs as that can affect ignition timing/power.

ISMR's dyno is generally considered a low reading dyno and if you say your gtr is all standard, then a figure of 160kw atw isn't that bad. From memory with my chats to Indy, standard gtrs will do around ~170kw atw on his dyno. What did Indy have to say about it ? Standard evos/stis only do around ~140kw atw there. And how about reversing the mods ? Install the factory exhaust and remove the boost gauge and replace the tapped line with a new one, reset ecu and then test again.

When i called and ordered a set of whiteline adjustable swaybars for a z33 (to fit my v35, yes the z33 bars fit), they just ordered selby's bars in. Far as i know, whiteline and selbys are tied in with each other somehow these days. So to reiterate, i ordered a set of whiteline adjustable swaybars for a 350z, and the workshop brought in a set of selby's and it fitted my v35 perfectly.

Not familiar with the underbody of the chaser but you may have space issues with installing a varex half way as they are a fairly large muffler due to the internal 3 chambers design especially if you get the larger piping size ones like the 3.5". Edit - err, nismoid beat me to it lol.

Get rich quick scheme ?! I want in! Pretty much what r31nismoid said. There's already alot of competition in Australia from what i can see and definitely in sydney where i reside.

How about waiting for a suitable gap instead of squeezing in..

Well the colour rating also indirectly affects the lumen output of the lamp. The higher you go up the colour range, the less lumens outputted. To go brighter really, you need to move down the colour scale. Output is generally optimum at around 4300-6000k. Any higher and you start losing light output and it will get harder to perceive 'depth' as it's hard to render with the blue/purple light. I had factory hids and they were 4300k. Almost a perfect match to sunlight, slightly yellow and very easy to 'perceive' things at night.

Kakimoto ftw! No guessing i had a kakimoto. Loved it! Nice and quiet pottering around with minimal drone and REALLY loud when WOT (e.g. my mates saying how loud and also good sounding it was when i overtake them). Love the crackle on back off too.

Depends on your driving. If you just potter around town then it won't be worth it as it will slightly increase bumpiness (resistance to independent suspension lateral movement) and will wear out other bushes quicker such as the endlinks. If you are into tracking/driving spiritedly then yes they are worth it! On medium/medium i still found a fair bit of body roll (in touge) but moving to hard setting makes the car too skatey on bumps mid corner etc. You're going to need to do uprated shocks/springs along with the swaybars to start controlling the body roll of the V coupe whilst still maintaining some form of bump compliance/traction retention over bumps and whatnot (and a little roll is always good). Steering is pretty much the same, the V's steering isn't particularly communicative and the slight rack shake remains even with the bars fitted (come to think of it, the rack shake was reduced alot when i changed the wheels meaning tyres, tyre width and offset). Overall for me they were definitely worth it due to the car seeing some touge and a fair bit of spirited driving and i was happy with the whiteline bars as they modified front and rear bar stiffness whereas some others only modify the rear stiffness by any meaningful amount e.g. from memory the nismo bars for the front had something +1% stiffness only or was it no change in stiffness even? The whiteline bars also came with urethane bushings to suit the increased OD size of the bars.

Had medium medium. (Yeah rear was two settings so not the soft setting). Yeah the oem front bar is thickish but check out the weight of the v35.

I have PM'd mattymagoo regarding fixing a dent on my car and the guy is no BS straight up. Top bloke that's extremely honest and seems to have the heart in the job. I haven't actually gone ahead with his quote yet because money has been tight but just wanted to add the guy is really nice, and seems to have the heart in the job and is obsessed with quality of repairs. He even managed to tell me how my dent will look after he finished with it from just a couple of close up shots via PM. I will get that dent on the roof fixed one day matt! Lol...just money is tight atm.

I've had VDC kick in when having VDC off in both methods. I used to just unplug the abs power supply, byebye all electronic intervention ho ho.

So full of )%&@*%&) crap these revenue raising quotas that they have to fill but that's for another thread. Like it matters anyways, just look at what developing countries are pumping out heh. There's a fine line between social responsibility and bending over the people... +1 to what Nytsky said...all modified vehicles are being targeted even my old man in his 97 aus delivered hatchback corolla got defected - and that is externally quite stock. To pass, he tuned the car to pass im240 and redid his eng. cert. to reflect newer mods/conversions since the last eng. cert. On another forum, a guy with a bog stock zze122 corolla got defected for running an upper model's tire size only. GL to everyone having to go through this process and if you want to pass the im240 test, there's a tuner in penrith that does emissions tune for you (i'm sure most of you will know anyways though but pm me if you'd like). There's also info in guilt-toys thread about tuning to pass the test if you wanted to use your own tuner. Gimme a call when there's a revolution.

=/ i had a Trust PE2 before and thought it was way TOO loud...droned too much for my liking too. Replaced with 3.5 x-force catback mid muffler and rear cannon.. better but still loud and droney. Cut off rear muffler and replaced with a 3.5" varex - MUCH better. The varex mufflers are very large (as they need to have enough room to make 3 chambers for the gas to flow through in silent mode) so even at full open mode it's not too loud/droney and it sounds good too. Had to get the mid muffler repositioned too - thing was too low like previous posters mentioned and was scraping when attacking corners that were bumpy.

Well some people like n/a characteristics, myself included. I'd happily spend money on tuning a n/a car and have done so before however generally the tuning approach is quite different from personal observations i.e. n/a tuners will focus more on handling and improving response/power whereas alot (not all) FI tuners will go for power power power lol. To me, there's nothing like the sound of a good n/a engine revving out and the throttle control/response but that's just my personal preference, just like i'm sure there's plenty out there who love hearing gate etc.

3.5 but i wanted 3 for less drone. Not anymore though since i installed a varex (still 3.5).

Damn boost junkies!