stimps

They are NGK ones supposed to be right ones for the car, they are gapped to 0.7mm I can go see what the number on the spark plug is i suppose, i didnt think they were an issue to be honest, i think of all things, my igntion seems to be really good at the moment:) certainly not the cause of this stalling issue. If it was, it would cough and splutter, rather than just act doey or cut out like it is now

The previous owner of this car really screwed things up, everything was fiddled with and left in wrong settings. I have slowly fixed everything up and have just a couple of things left to fix. The alternator was screwed, i repaired that, the steering was wrong, no horn, no auto indicator cancel, too low, hicas light on, suspension too low, engine stalling and cutting out, coils misfiring.so now ive fixed most things. but this problem just persists.... Its a two door RB20DET manual R32 1993 model (imported from japan last year) Completely stock. Ive replaced the ECU, cleaned and taped the coils, now no missfires whatsoever. (big smiles) Ive put in stock springs to get ride hieght right. horn fixed! indicator cancel fixed. Hicas not looked at yet, light still on. Ive repaired dry joints in the air flow meter (that caused some really shocking stalling) Found a faulty IAC valve and I am still on the hunt for a working one. Reset the throttle position sensor as it was out The throttle stop was wrong, ive set that up right now. intake leaks, all fixed. Fuel economy was shocking so i replaced the oxy sensor. That helped its drivability a little, but current problem still there. It runs ok now when driving along highway and around town, but at the traffic lights and at home, it plays up a bit. It seems to stall a little now and then and it also hesitates when you go to drive off. I thought at first that it might be a loose spring in the blow off valve, but I blocked it off and it still does it. I have read around and it seems I may have a dirty AFM but ive cleaned it and that made no difference. I do have an oscilloscope which ive put onto the inputs and watched them while driving and havint noticed anything that would point to this problem. Does anyone have a clue what I should look at next? Ive still got feeling that I should buy another AFM and try that. but the oscillocope shows that the current one seems to be working fine. anyone got a clue!? its really not very drivable at the moment, gives me the shits and i tend to drive my other car to work instead! NOT GOOD lol

I would find this helpfull too. I have taken out my IAC valve and found it to be dead (according to owners manual testing procedure , putting 12v directly onto it, it is supposed to open and then close slowly over next 7 minute period) I then took 2 off Vl commodores at the wreckers (they are the same) and they both dont work either!! what am I missing?

If anyone has one lying around from a intake mod, ill take it off your hands:) Brisbane area. cheers 0435649848

If anyone has one lying around from a intake mod, ill take it off your hands:) Brisbane area. cheers 0435649848

Mine stalls cold, so I suspect my IAC valve is stuck shut, will tear it apart this arv. Few things ive noted. In the engine manual, it says to take the IAC valve out and apply power directly to it, it should open and then slowly close over a 7 minute period. If you have problems with your cold idle, check that. clean it out and check it works correctly. The AAC valve spring can become lazy, sometimes you have to just replace the unit. They get less effective at controlling the idle. I cleaned mine out and it did not change my cars idling problems, it wasnt that dirty. If you car has a high idle no matter what you do, its probably a stuck open IAC valve, or a sneaky vacum leak somewhere. im yet to try setting the idle by the ECU screw (pot) but I think this sets the bass setting or the aggresiveness of the ECU'S idle control. Basically everyones problems can be checked by the following, clean both valves. AAC valve and IAC valve. BUT FIRST take your throttle body out and check when its at zero it really IS ZERO. some poeple raise the idle by adjusting the throttle stop screw NEVER DO THIS as it throws out all the settings of the rest of your engines idle control set up. Clean it and make sure its at zero and put it back in. Set up the throttle position sensor again if you had to change something. put your meter or tester across pin 2 and 3 and make sure its a closed circiut (or the meter beeps to say you have continuity) at closed position. adjust it so as SOON AS YOU JUST OPEN THE THROTTLE the switch changes and its an open circiut. this is how they are supposed to be set up. this tells the ECU its no longer idling and gives the injectors a quick blip of extra fuel so you can take off without a lean out. then check both AAC VALVES AND IAC VALVES work, that they both open and close as they should. for the more technically able people, hook up an oscilloscope to the AAC valve terminals at the ECU end and check the waveform to make sure the ECU is trying to take control of the engines idle speed. if this fails, check your plumbing. BOV's can leak and cause a high idle. or a stuck open PCV valve can cause a high idle also. think ive ranted on enough now:)

could be anything, need more info. Perhaps its running in safe mode, which makes it run rich. Reset the ecu and then drive around sedately and allow it to tune itself back to good mixtures and if that fails, check your coils, and your oxy sensor.

found what i was looking for. Hopefully it fixes my sick running r32:)

ok, so ive read all 20 pages i think, and im totally confused, but..... My 32 GTST is idling like a bitch and running rich and even cuts out often. 22690-73L11 is the Nissan part number for the sensor on the R32 RB20DET? and you cant get one in australia and there is no Bosch or NTK direct replacement? I ordered one for a rb26dett from NTK thinking it was the same and of course its different, the new one that arrived just looks like a standard VL commodore one, 3L. right wires and colours and plug but wrong sensor body. So am I right in asuming that if i buy the OZA23-D2 FORD EL one it will fit but ill have to change the wires?? so confused it hurts lol cheers.

as above, need a standard WORKING and not modified, ECU for a R32 rb20det 5 speed manual. More accurately, a 93 model 2 door imported model GTST 0435649848 cheers.

Cancel that, my AFM is fixed!

Oh shit yeah, I just picked up a completely straight just imported R32 GTST 5 speed manual from the auctions for 5k and the hand brake in it scared me when i first applied it! *bang* "chirp!"

Wanted to buy AFM for R32 5 speed manual (93 model) RB20DET ring John 0435649848 cheers.

Is there still an Air Flow Meter available for an R32 Manual (RB20DET) ?

haha, i heard that something similar happened in melb. Some lebo with a WRX was getting his car stolen all the time so he got a steel lug set in the concrete beside his work and chained it up every night and then heard a big rev and dump and BANG and it tore out the floor of his car and severed the theifs legs

Found an open circiut Regulator diode inside it ( its one of the three little black ones) and changed it. I will put it in the car tonite.

Yeah I think the rectifier may be stuffed, acording to a technician I talked to about it at work. Im taking the unit out tonite and pulling it apart. Your alternator must have been different to mine as Ive searched high and low for a replacement regulator with no luck. Will post my findings tomorrow.

Also just wondering what other skyline R32 owners have done in the past, with crook alternators, whether anyone has successfully changed the regulator in the existing unit, or have had to buy a second hand one, or part with 400 odd bux and buy a brand new item. *shudder*

Alternator light is on, pulsing, checked battery, alternator still seems to be charging, battery voltage is 13.9 while driving, but car has random shutdowns, very small intermittent ones. Noticed that at 2000rpm reving motor alternator light pulses quicky, upon reving engine up to 4000rpm, pulsing slows down and alterntor output pulses! even with the headlights on and you can see the voltage pulsing in the lights!! weird! anyone seen this? I am tempted to just buy a brand new aftermarket alternator. Battery is ok. I even doubled up another battery to it and had the same thing happening. Attached an oscilloscope to it and saw a sinewave fluctuating 1 volt up and down at high revs! so as the engine speeds up, the pulsing slows down!!!?? WIERD. anyone have any idea whats wrong? I know I cant buy a new regulator for the alternator so think i have to buy a whole new alterator. A month ago i even had the alternator out of the car and it all checked out ok!? cheers car is a import R32 RB20DET manual. 93 model.

iS THIS still for sale? call me 0435649848 if you want to sell it. cheers.

I need those coils packs, Ring me 0427117725 urgent

Thanks Nevile for the springs, Does anyone wanna swap their factory wheel for the Type R and boss kit I have?? cheers to everyone who read this post.

Lookin for a set of stock springs for R32. Please ring me 0427117725 will pick up.

Doesnt ANYONE want these springs? anyone who has already replied please get back to me car still sitting at home with no springs waiting for someone to drop around and score themselves a free set of lowered springs!!!

they are quite low, makes my car look pretty nice but like i said beffore, i gotta have a soft ride for my back injury, anyway yeah im still keen as and i want a steering wheel to you can have the type R wheel i have which is nice, but i still want the stock one. only catch is, you can only come and swap these (or ill come to you) tomorrow!! (thursday) as i have that day off...then im away again for a week!!! my job steals so much of my time away:(