stimps

Does anyone have one of these? I need one pretty badly.... Got a twin turbo car to finish putting together... phone or leave a message 0408 062 867 I need the small bit of pipe that belongs at the end of the red arrow.

the flat screwdriver type screw above the idle solenoid is the manual idle screw. Turn it a few turns out will raise your idle a bit, and help prevent stalling.

decided to go with the more expensive AVCR.

anyone?

I can obtain brand new AVCR's complete sealed in box, to you for $800. Anyone interested phone me 0408 062 867 or email me your details and ill get one on its way cheers.

For sale, E boost. Brand new, SOLD Paid $790 Brand new for it, 3 months ago, Asking $650DROPPED TO $550 SOLD 16 bit RISC based FLASH CPU Programmable Gate Pressure Function, eliminating creep Three internally or externally activated programmable boost set points Different Boost in each Gear Accurate Boost and Vacuum Display , no Gauge required Display reads in KPA, PSI, or Bar Programmable output for water spray, shift light, etc Audible warning for over boost Memory recall for peak boost e-Boost fits into standard 2 5/8" gauge cup holder or mounting pod You can even set what full scale the LED bar graph will read. pm or 0408 062 867 SOLD cod or pick up SOLD

there is nothing wrong with the vacumn ones on a turbo car. All turbo cars should have a hose taking vacumn off the manifold, thru a one way valve, to a vacumn resivior somewhere on the car (in the VL's its on the right hand side hidden behind the bumper.) Even when your on boost, there is plenty of vacumn on hand to deliver power to the actuator to pull the throttle cable. If it doesnt work, something is wrong, ive seen people have problems and blame the cruise control when I've had a look and found that the one way valve is missing or installed the wrong way around.

The one i have works off the magnets on the tailshaft system, which is if anything, more accurate. Being a turbo car or not makes no difference. If you have a turbo auto, its even better, as when you come to a steep hill, it will simply apply more throttle, turbo spools up, auto kicks down a gear....etc.. I havent played with any of them that work off a tacho signal, but I would think that any that does, would be pretty dodgy, as the behaviour of it would change depending on which gear your in.

Benm - Then get the command cruise unit from autobarn....they work great. Like Ive said before I've used one for years and years and swear by them. I think poeple have to also realise that when you install any cruise control, It must be calibrated to the road properly, or it will overshoot and not stay accurate.

yes and yes altho, for a manual car, you have to install a switch on your clutch pedal so it drops the unit out when you put your foot on the clutch (simple limit switch, any electrician can show you) this extra switch does not come with the basic unit. You can order one, but its cheaper just to get a limit switch from dick smith electronics and use that.

That stereo cutting out with the gear changing thing, is due to a poor earth connection in the wiring loom, behind the stereo. The loom splits up, one bit goes to the stereo, the other down to the gearbox (thru the floor) There will be a spliced and crimped bunch of black wires wrapped up in tape behind here, and this join, if it stuffs up, will cause your kind of problems. Its easiest to fix, by just joining another earth to your stereo. Join into your black wire behind the stereo (stereo earth) and connect it to a lug, that you can bolt onto a point on the chassis somewhere nearby. Under the dash somewhere you should find a bolt or something bolted to the chassis. If your reversing lights play up, or your car sutters in 5th gear, then find the black wire that goes down to your gearbox and earth that using an extra earth wire too. Should fix all your problems.

OH, yeah and the only way to go with vehical secuirty, is a two way imobilizer alarm with two way remote (remotes goes berzerk when someone touches your car) AND a solid club lock. Anything less is just handing it to them.

AURGH god i hate people that steal someone elses pride and joy. Thats so low. I bought a house 18 months ago, and if i sold it today, id walk away with 140 000 dollars profit. It was so easy, so whats friggin wrong with these arseholes, who have to make a quick buck by HURTING someone else????? I hate to say it, but it sounds like its a proffesional job, that car is probably all pulled apart now and they are selling the parts......F*CKING B*STARDS....

You can use the cheap one they sell at autobarn/supercheap, around 200 gets you the complete kit, I have used one for years and had no trouble, in fact, I think these units are more accurate than MANY factory ones. Its a vacumn one, meaning, it has a vacumn line from the manifold, (thru a one way valve) to a pair of valves and a large diaphram connected to a cable - to your throttle. You also put in a pickup coil and magnets on yoru tailshaft. I went one step further and put on two racy looking push buttons on my steering wheel, wired them up to a small UHF transmitter key and hid that in my steering wheel. Wired up the UHF reciever unit under the dash, to the cruise control unit, and wallah, working cruise control. When activated, the unit takes over control of the speed and keeps it on the speed you set it at + or - 1km/hr. Preddy darn accurate if you ask me. I dont know how I lived without it.

Mines dude, I feel for you, but You sorta did have it coming, you dont ever EVER drive on a public road near the edge of your limitations and ability. EVER. Save it for the track. I am 32, and have not had a prang since i was 17. That time it was from being in the wrong place in the wrong time, and wasnt my fault. I drive a powerfull twin turbo VL (very much uprated suspension to make it handle better than a ...well...VL...) and Yes, I have pushed the envolope just a tad sometimes, but always on a straight line, and when there is no one else on the road. You simply have to look and think further ahead than your immediate view, and velocity. THINK. I should hope after one bingle going too quickly would teach you to slow down, and save it for the track, but two? well i dunno....... I dont appreciate the carelessness you have displayed, regarding your well being, and also the disregard for valuable possesions, namely, a GTR< and now our insurance premiums will be even higher. Its not appreciated. But Im not trying to flame you. I believe many different people from different walks of life, if put in the exact same place, with the exact same feelings and cards delt in life, would do almost the same thing. So for god sake, everyone save your fast driving for the track.

Have a Dash cluster, great condition, from a GTST manual R33, it has 53000 showing on the clock. $300 ono.

dont sell your steering wheel:P sell as en entire car, you will get your 12k too. I would buy it, but I wont, because I just dont have the time. I have a nice customized twin turbo r33 engine that would be really at home in a R33, but I just finished getting this all finished, in a VL. Now im buying a house and moving etc,...... Good luck with the sale.

Tell me all about the car mate. Interested. I have a VL with a twin turbo r33 motor in it, and am thinking i would like a R33

gday, is 20 bux enough? where are you? COD? cheers.

Anyone got this pipe pictured here? This is the small bit of pipe that bolts on to the front turbo of a pair of GTR turbos in stock form. Need it for a project i have going at the moment. cheers

*chuckle* Thats true, but if it were better, why dont we all use it? Heres why. The optimal air/fuel ratio for petrol is 14.7 to 1 The optimal air/fuel ratio for alchohol is 7 to 1 So at 10c a litre cheaper it sounds better, but you use twice as much. And its low octane, meaning it will ping at a much lower latent heat threshold. Meaning it will self ignite at a much lower pressure/temperature. Not much good as a fuel for high performance. The reason top alchohol cars have so much success and power using it (100% mix) is they run it at 7:1 and at this mixture, it DOES cool itself quite well. But they still dont get as much power per litre as petrol. And its corrosive to some metals...

I had a to4E lying around here that i was going to put onto my Rb25det. Its externally gated. I never ended up doing it, after scoring a full set of GTR turbos, manifolds and dump pipes. I sold the to4E for 1100. What most turbo biulders do is adapt a to4 wheel and comp cover to the T3, and call it a t3/4 hybrid, which gives you a better performing car than the same motor with a To4E on it. Have you seen the exhaust side of a to4E? they are huge, way too laggy....

black smoke is fuel not oil. why should it boost higher than standard boost? you got a bleed valve hooked up? If you have and its refusing to boost very high, it could be any number of alot of other things. I've never seen a turbo that is in such a state that it wont boost higher than standard boost, unless its really stuffed (turbine hitting houseing, seized bearings, etc) They seem to either work fine, or dont.

sounds like an alarming ****up if i ever heard of one:P

by the way, I picked up a second hand turbo for $200 on the weekend and fitted it to my twin turbo rb25dett VL and it fixed my problem. So as you can see, spending money at a turbo shop rebiulding a stock rb25det turbo is not a financially rewarding thing to do. Its better to just source a second hand one. I had two good turbos, untill one started leaking oil into the air intake. Upon trying to fix that turbo, i broke the seal plate. Bought a buggered turbo for $70 and broke the seal plate in that trying to get it out too! (DOH) Bought another good turbo for $200 and fitted it and no worries. Now im making two new seal plates, using two new o rings, and setting up the bearings in those two turbos again, to see if i can get those turbos operational again. If not, ill turf them:P