Jaysiin

neg on price. make a reasonable offer.

RWC + rego, ready to go to a new home now.

looking to sell, but may swap/trade as i need a 4 door vehicle.

Up for sale is an immaculate R33 S2. I have owed this vehicle for over 6 years. Been overseas 3 times and rarely gets driven. Downsizing all toys for longer visit to overseas location. Vehicle has only travelled less than 3000kms last year and only 31kms so far this year!!!!! Pretty much a standard vehicle. The best way to have a R33. The basic stuff... Turbocharged 2.5L 6 cylinder 5 Speed Manual 184kw (fly) 292nM 4800rpm (standard). However tuned to 187rwkw with 464nM P/S HICAS 4 Wheel Steer Icy Cold Climate Control A/C P/W and mirrors ABS Twin Airbags (series 1.5 and 2 only) Highway fuel usage 9-10L/100kms City 11-13L/100kms With the basic breathing gear of; Drift Pod Air filter PWR Front Mount intercooler Drift Oil catch can Turbosmart BOV Greddy Profec B-Spec II Electronic Boost Controller (set to 7psi) 3.5" Dump pipe 3.5" Magnaflow hi flow cat 3.5" bee-r cat back exhaust Turbo Timer Nismo Style Front bar ($1400 bar, prep and fitted Jan 12) and GTR Wing Crystal Vision globes and clear side indicators Mechanical 1.5way LSD Sony CD/MP3/Aux player, Kenwood 6" splits powered by a Kenwood Amp, Sony 300watt 6" in the rear and 12" Eclipse subs powered by a Option Audio Amp. Boot has been re-done with new panels. 18" Starcorp Kaotic mags. (staggered) New Federal Tyres (front 235/45 and rear 265/40, Jan 12) New Century battery Tein Super Street coil overs Exedy Sports Tuff HD Cushion Button clutch (heavy and sticky) Gates timing belt, fuel filter etc and pulleys (as part of major service) GTR Dash and key Long rego 74xxxkms. Travelled less than 3000kms last year!! REVS and RWC Certificate will be provided. $13990 Price is neg. Serious buyers only. Vehicle is also listed on carsales with the rego 684LCW 0478 739 741

bee-r kakimoto n1 thought you might wanna suss em out

i have 1 supplier saying s1 aftermarket bar wont fit, but then another saying it will with custom brackets etc. :S i just want a new bar as the one i have looks ugly (came with the car wheni bought it)

I currently have a 400r front bar. However i have chipped 1cm of it. I am looking for a stock S2 replacement or a aftermarket replacement. Question it, Will a aftermarket S1 Gtr/veilside/etc front bumper fit on a S2?

will go for a aftermarket gtr style bar if someone knows where to find one to suit a s2. all i have found are suited to s1. damn f*cking bump

damn bump! im sure someone out there has one, or knows a place to get something aftermarket

bump

also.... prefer white in colour.

Wtb r33 S2 front bumper. Will pick up in Brissy area. Must be indentical to the bar pictured. Please Pm me.

bump

did not work...

forgot to mention that this is all relation to.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Id...ms-t317995.html

mad082 that vid was taken 4days ago. its now dropping lower after a mech adjusted the TPS. i just re-adjusted the tps to were it previously was. ill give that method a shot and get back to this thread.

afm cleaned, aac cleaned, t/body cleaned, tps adusted, new fliuds, plugs and filters, etc and still happening. only on cold starts/idle. hot idle it is perfect and car runs normal. wtf is the issue? Note: idle will drop to around 200rpm around the 2.5min mark. any ideas would be great! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhbmH-brvWE

S1 bar wont fit a S2 bar apprantly. I went to buy a GTR copy for a GTS-T S1 and the seller told me it wont suit my car (S2).

you know there is a bov out already that has some electronic control to switch on/off/volume etc

dude, just get a landcruiser 80 series. turbo, Low/High 2wd/4wd gearing select and 4wd lock! your set! ....

not loud. but you can hear it in car parks, parking in yr garage, confined spaces. not super loud.

i took the mech word for it as i do not know how to diagnose it. should i clean out the aac? just weird, cos it only happen after the belt change.

at first it was installed incorrectly. skipped 3teeth. they gave it back to me like that. no torque, back firing, unable to rev, stalling. was horrible. return it and they solved it. however idle has not been good. and i know those plugs now. ones that connect to the damn aac. idle motor?.. hahah

at first, it did have a missing tooth. however was rectified. car drives normal, have hammered it and drives as per usual. timing is set 15degrees. what is the idle plug the mech speaks about?

after changing my timing belt to a gates one, the car struggles on idle. let me explain... i believe my belt is done up too tight. (someone correct me if im wrong) first cold start, will rev low, struggling to stay alive (sometimes dies), belt is cold, and the motor is working hard to keep the engine alive. once the engine warms up, belt is slightly loosen and warm, and the idle returns back to normal. i adjusted the aac valve on cold start to keep the engine running normal under 1000rpm instead of struggling at 400, but once the belt is warm, my idles revs is high above 1000rpm i thought after a few k's she will settle in and be ok. however i have done 5000kms since then. now, after getting a new clutch today, i said to the mech can you have a quick look at my idle. he didnt look into the tension, however said the idle motor is not working. pulled the plug off and the was no change in the idle. after searching this site, i can not find the "idle motor" plug thing. was hoping for a DIY fix. can someone help me out?