leeroy_25

Thanks for the info... I think I have decided to take an oil feed from the pressure switch instead.. this means there is no risk of runining the block! I will also go for the drain into the sump and if I end up running an oil cooled turbo I won't need the water feed so no need to drill and tap the block at all!! Result! Thanks Lee

See I missed a load of replies again! Bugger! Holset.. would be my choice if I went that route.. Defo as CJmartz says punch for pound and cheap rebuilds you couldn't beat it.. You mention they are made in England.. I have actually tried speaking to them hence I know how un-interested they are in the performance market.. Even so.. I could buy one from the US and ship it over here for less than I could ever get one here in the UK! For the same prices I could geta brand spanking Master Power!? My only hope of a cheap one here would be getting a smacked up truck in a breakers but I don't know of any truck breakers anywhere near me and not sure which models they are fitted to. From what I researched the large housings are all T4.. the smaller ones are T3 with internal gates. As far as I remember all T3 are internal gate but some of the T4 ones are external. BUt that said if it has a gate you can just weld or wire it shut. I also heard that the T4 fitment is not quite T4 and you need to tickle the manifold a bit to fit it.. The actual hole is supposed to line up fine just the bolt pattern does not quite match. Someone mentioned about water cooling.. on my RB30 is that the only reason I need the water feed in the block to cool a turbo if it has water cooling? Well that's one reason to get an MP or a holset. I won't need to drill and tap the block! Cheers Lee

Thanks for the reply psi, I think rather than risk knackering the entire block for a tiny hole I will take a feed from the oil pressure switch! My block is blank on the return hole as well.. I am toying with putting the drain into the sump anyhow.. But I will think about that a bit more yet.. Only other thing I need to check out is the arrangement for the belt tensioners. But that's another thread I think!? Cheers Lee

Blimey!! What have I started! I am loving the replies from CJmartz! Rattled a few cages there buddy! Man after my own heart! PaulR33 you also make some good points. I am all for a bit of DIY hence I said I like doing things 'unconventionally' you can call it cheap if you like but I like to think about how I can do something different for a start and get similar result to Joe blogs who can't be assed to do any research for themselves.. go to there local tuners and gets charged an arm an a leg for the best known turbo setup and all the work to fit it! I would be much happier findiing out about what 'different' setups people have tried with success and how much was involved.. Although I am perfectly happy to work out the latter myself once I have a turbo and manifold to start with.. I am in the UK by the way so pretty much what ever route I go will be overseas as you get ripped off rotten for anything in this country! I started the thread as I had heard that some of the US 'named brands' had reasonable reputations unlike the 'cheap no name chinese rubbish. I was also aware that MP are actually made in Brazil. I initially spent a lot of time exploring the Holset units and a bit on Borg Warner.. Shame about these companies is if you try and talk to them they are not really interested in marketing their turbo's for performance uses.. I think BW are more recently coming around to that way of thinking the more guy's start experimenting with them and getting good results. But Holset.. No chance they litterally put the phone down as soon as you mention petrol and performance! I think it's either the H1E or HX40 being the way to go there in what I read.. The this guy piped up about Master Power in the US and said he has buil/tuned a lolad of cars using them like skyines and Rotaries and they are great stuff.. If you size them right they spool quick and make great power? So really I was trying to find some first hand experiences to confirm this or say.. No I had one and it went bang after a few weeks or something. Everyone is entitled to opinions but at the end of the day it is facts we are looking for and as has been said on here by other people.. Not just regurgitating what you cousins, unlces friend said! That said I appreciate al the replies!

Hey there, I am doing an RB30/26 build and struggling to find some info on the forum.. hoped someone could spare 5 to help.. As you may have seen on the forum my block arrived as a series 1 type so does not have the oil feed drilled through and the return is not in the block. The water feed is there but just needs a clean up. Can you please let me know what thread sizes each of these should and also what is the best way to tackle drilling through the oil feed? The hole is there but presumable blind after about 3.5inches. Not sure how much I need to drill to break through? and also what dril size I should use? Next is gaskets. Can I use a complete RB26 gasket set on an RB30 or do I need an RB30 bottom end and RB26 head set? From what I have read I should use the RB26 head gasket? Also where can I find all the torque settings I need to put it back together? I thought that would have been a sitcky?? If someone can please point me in a direction of a download for the RB30 and RB26 or where to find the info I would be grateful.. I will gladly compile a thread with all this info in one place and post it up for future reference. Thank you in advance Lee

I second Mike on that.. If I ask around on US forums Master Power seem to have quite a good track record? I found dome guy in NZ that uild track cars and pretty much all he uses is MP. I am loathed to buy a garret just because every one else has one and is too scared to try anything else. You pay for the name just as much as the quality.. I think I would sooner go Holset Or Borg Warner be a bit more unconventional and better value I feel?

I have started work on my RB30 block which will end life with and R26 head and singel turbo.. The one I am using came without the provisions for the oil feed and return already in the block. The water feed is however there. The oil feed hole is tapped into the block with a hole about 4-5mm diameter going down inside the block, after about 3.25 inches this appears blanked off. I have another block with the feed hole already in and this appears about 5.5 inchs deep before it stops and presumably enters the other side of the block by the oil filter. Can someone tell me how deep I need to drill to open the hole through to create the oil feed and what size should it be. Also what size should the threads be tapped for the oil feed and return. I was considering the option of running a feed from the oil pressure switch. What have other people done with their blocks with out the feeds already in? Thank you Lee

I have spent the last week since my previous thread was closed reading through various searches trying to find info on std bearing and bore sizes and also torques settings for my RB30/26.. No joy so far.. Can some please let me know if there is a link somewhere to download all this info or for starters can someone please confirm the following standard sizes and torques settings: Crank journal sizes. mains and big end. and also first undersize. Bore size and first over size? MAins cap torque settings Big end torques settings That should be enough to get me started. Thank you Lee

Hi Guy's my previous post on OBX confirmed my thoughts although the seller was trying to disagree! Now has anyone got any opinions on Master Power turbo's I have been looking at lots of 'unconventional' options for my 'budget' build! These units seem to have a pretty god rep in the US and a few people have been trying to ush them over here. Seem to make good power on very moderately sized units.. i.e supposed to be very efficient. Any thoughts please? Thank you Lee

I thought they were US based.. Well was led to believe that.. Okay.. so steer well clear.. In that case what do you think of Master Power turbo's? I have heard good things in the US but not too much outside of there? Cheers Lee

Is anyone on here familiar with OBX turbo's and parts in general? Are they any good? they seem middle road price wise.. quality looks good in pictures and sounds good in their sales splurge.. What is the reality though? Thank you Lee

Regards my two closed topics.. I had read the guides for RB30 conversion (all last week!) and that was why I sarted my own topic.. I wanted a specific thread on those specific questions as there are lots of different opinions! Didn't think that was un- reasonable? Lee

I am planning a build using an RB26 head and stock non-turbo RB30 bottom end.. I am aiming for 550-600bhp at the end of the day and gather this is about the max for the stock block. Any way in order to keep cost down and maybe get a bit more life and reliability out of the bottom end I have been picking up ideas from other build threads and my own knowledge. What are the opinions of polishing the stock rods to remove casting marks and potential stress raisers. Is it worht the effort? If money was no object I would buy forged ones but looking at this as an alternative bearing in mind my aim at the end of the day? tips and opinions please! Thank you Lee

Been reading some build threads and wondered about the pro's and cons of getting your stock RB30 pistons ceramic coated as a pose to buying forged ones?? I am only looking around the 600bhp mark as I hope to keep the bottom end stock and cannot afford to start uprating the rest of the car to cope wth more power! I will be using an RB26 head with possibly mild cams. Opinions on this subject please. And anyone used it would like to hear how you got on.

I am about to start my RB30 buld with an RB26 head and wanted to know where I could get a manual for the torques settings, journal/bearing sizes and so on for both head and block? I presume there is an online manual somewhere? please can someone point me in the right direction. Thank you Lee

Would you be able to post a pic of the mod you did no the front of the block? I was aware that the smooth area needs to be below the water pump but I have had the cover off to check that yet.. sounds pretty much like I have a series 1 block though! Doh! Oh well.. where there is a will there is a way! Is there an option to put the tensioner somewhere different. I presume if you had to weld up the front face it's not just a case of it being a rough cast finish that needs machining.. but it is the wrong shape? Cheers Guys. So much more positive than feedback I have had elsewhere!

Hi Guys The shippng was the biggest expense! Cost nearly £800! More than the blocks themselves! R.I.P.S and some other dude on the UK forum came back and told me the blocks were scrap and no good for turbo applications.. then some other guy has told me hes has done a few like this! What's what?! Both the guy's that told me they are scrap normally sell blocks themselves!? Personally I cannot see what can be that different.. as long as the pistons, rods, crank etc are the same and I can put the oil and water feeds and returns in then all should be okay right? I will also check the block front face is smooth above the pump is that was the first thing I looked at.. I assume worst case though I could also machine this area smooth? Cheers Guys Lee

Thank you there.. That is very good news indeed!! I thought that would be the case but figured I would check first! I got two blocks.. one as a spare. I may sell it on once I have templated the holes into the other block! Is there anything else the block missing te oil feeds will be short on? Or is it all the same other than that? Thanks again Lee

Hi there guys' Today I finally took delivery of my RB30 engine blocks from Australia! I am in the UK and have been interested to do the conversion for a while.. An opportunity came up so I took it.. After a lot of research and advise I was told the best block was the late non turbo block which would give a good compression ratio with the rb26 head and would also have the correct oil feed and returns already in the side ready to accept a turbo conversion. After much looking around Australia I tracked down a company with a couple of blocks and they said they were both the correct ones with the oil feeds etc.. However when they arrived today and I checked them out I found only one has the oil feed and returns in the side! Would I be correct to think this is not a major problem and I can just machine the holes in and tap them accordingly? Is there anything else the block will be missing that could be a problem or I need to be aware of? Thank you in advance Regards Lee P.S. i'll think i'll be visiting here a lot of the winter!