leeroy_25

Thanks for the info.. Who supplies you collars?? I was considering getting them machined myself but if I can find a cheap enough supplier I may as well buy them. Cheers Lee

Thank you kind sir..

I have been having murder trying to find a supplier for std non turbo rb30 piston rings or even some aftermarket ones that will fit straight in the stock non-turbo pistons.. I went to ACL and apparently they have stopped doing them.. But a UK distributor told me they had sme RB20 rings that were listed as fitting the RB30?? Can someone confirm if the RB20 rings are in fact the same size as non turbo rb30 ones?? I am guessing more likely the same as turbo rings? If they don't do the job can someone please let me know where to get rings in aus or whereever! Anyone know where there is some left over acl stock?? Thank you Lee

I am doing an RB30 engine build and want to fit a crank collar. but also a little unsure about it.. from what I have read it is held on by a combination of inteference fit and grub scews.. I am very worried about the grub screw coming loose or shearing and the drive slipping.. has this ever happened? I read there is some kind of welding option. Is this welding on the collar or welding extra metal back on the end of the crank to machine down and create an extended drive.. Please can someone confirm or put my mind at rest before I proceed! Cheers Lee

I am sure I read somewhere on here that you can use a welder nozzle to reduce the size of the oil feeds in the block that go to the head? Buggered if I can find he post now..Can someone confrim ths is correct and the size..1.5mm? I presume you can just blank off the remaining oil feed gallery with a dowel or spot of weld? Cheers Lee

Just a silly little question as I am not 100% sure.. Do I need a specific RB30 oil filter or are all the RB motors interchangable?? I started looking them up and there seemed to be a different listing for R32/33/34 which threw me!? surely if an r32 RB25 is the same as an r32 rb26.. then surely they all swap?! Please can someone confirm. Thanks Lee

I am planning to run either a Master Power or a Holset.. More chance it will be a Holset at the mo.. So it's a little bit experimental! So you reckon i'll make the power on lower boost? Surely that woul dbe better for the engine? Cheers Lee

Hey Adriano.. maybe the rod work would cost a bit.. That is if you can't do it yourself and has a mate who does shot peening!! In that case why not!? Thanks for the clearance info.. That's cool. I best get the pistons prepped! Lee

Adriano, Are yours the step 2 hks? So you have uprated springs as well.. Would you suggest sticking with stock cams or holding out for some tomei's? I can get the cams with pullies or £250. New I think they are about £260 each plus shipping! I thought that was pretty good!

Hey there, I will be running a big single! Main thing is I wil be limited on boost and rpm by the fact I have a stock bottom end.. so reckon max 20psi and 7000rpm.. although I'll probably run more like 17psi and 6750 rpm to be safe! Cheers Lee

No takers??! Come on guy's what are 'you' running?

Thanks RIPs This is goning to be interesting to see what replies get posted now!! I was always planning on limiting my rpm to about 6750... absolute max 7000rpm.. but I prefer to play safe and tune it so the power comes in a bit lower down.. Clearly too many revs will kill a motor! I am trying my best to give it it's best shot of surviving well by balancing evyerhting in the bottom to the finet point! My rods are all within 0.1 of a gram.. Just gone for peening. Next I am debating whether to ceramic top the pistons or if that's not going to be much of a benefit? Also I don't know how much valve clearance is in the RB30/RB26 setup? i.e will a thick coating in the valve cutouts in the pistons mean the valves collide? I would imagine not? I know this is a subject Sydney Kid probably has good experience with! But From what I gather he doesn't get on here much these days. I know you won't want to give too much away.. but CAM wise. would you stay stock.. run mild poncams or step 1 hks? Reason I ask is I always wanted to go Poncams if anything as they maximise the lift with nt too much added duration. Which I gather will keep the power low down the rev range. Now I just got offered a low mileage pair of HKS cams. 264/272 setup Step ones.. so less lift than I was after.. but what woud you reckon? Anyway.. I have another post on that on here! Cheers for the reply. Lee

How do you get hold of SK on here?? I tried pm a little while ago and his box was full! I had some specific questions for him! Only point I noted is I could run my stock RB26 and see the same power. I thought the point of going with the RB30 was for more power and torque? I could spend the money on my RB26 bottom end that my RB30 stock end cost and cme away with more power if that the case? When I started looking into this Tuners like RIPs and other guy's were saying 600bhp flywheel was achievable? Now it seems this isn't the case at all? Cheers Lee

Good advice but if I could afford to go with forged rods etc I wouldn't have started this post. I am on a budget and it is my first build hence my option is to not go crazy and see what I can get from a stock based motor. R.I.PS sell rebuilt stock bottom ends as good for 600bhp. (approx 460rwhp I guess?) I am upgrading components I can afford to, like acl bearings rod bolts and getting the rods balanced and peened. The motor won't need to last 10 years! but to see 2 or 3 years from it i'll be happy! It won't often get track use or hard driving as it will be a fast road toy.. But on the occassion when I want to use it properly it will get used! I am a mechanically sympathetic kind of person as I understand how it all works so I tend to drive the motor with that in mind. I am not setting out to max the boost and rev the nut's off it constantly and blow it up! So I guess I am aiming for something like 340-350rwkw if my maths is about right?! I would like to know more on the boost front though. Will 1.4bar (20psi) blow it apart? 17psi seems quite low although I appreciate the pistons were not intended for a turbo application! Just want to be realisitic about what I can achieve at the end of the day and what I need to get there! Cheers Lee

I have been thinking which cams to run in my RB30/RB26 setup.. after reading lots of post I was thinking that the Tomei poncams.. 264 duration with 9.15 lift was the best option? The other otpion would be HKS Step ones which are 264 with only 8.7lift.. What would be the difference in drivability and power output with each of these setups? I am running a stock bottom end and will limit the rpm to around 6750. maybe 7000rpm max. Will have the rods peened so trying to determine the max boost I can run at the mo relatively safely!? I reckon about 1.4bar? I am hoping to get around 550bhp plus at the flywheel with the corect supporting mods and turbo. I have just had the offer of a pair of HKS cams.. they are both step1 but one is a 264 and one is a 272? How will this set up work. does it matter which cam has the longer duration? What should I do!! Thanks Lee

Thanks for the replies guys.. Good info I reckon and I did ask for reliable! Next question I have is I have heard plenty of people saying you can run a stock bottom end up to 600bhp flywheel power (including some big tuners!). So how does that effect things.. I was hoping to get 550hbp plus don't want to get too close to the max! Let me know what you reckon. Regards the pistons and rods obvioulsy being a weak link.. I have balanced mine and am going to get them peened. Was also thinking of ceramic coating the piston crowns or seeing if I can get some Hypereutectic ones that will drop straight in place of my OEM non-turbo pistons and give the correct compression without having to machine the block down. i.e around 8.5:1? Do you know if such a piston exists and if it's worth my while? I guess the stock pistons will be the first thing to let rip?? am I right? or will boost bend the rods first? I was going for possibly ARP Rb25 or stock RB25 head bolts and ideally some better Rod boltd. I gather it's SR20 ARP ones I need? Was not planning on doing the mains bolts though.. Let me know your additional thoughts and thanks for the time and info. Lee

I am sure it's been answered before but I cannot find it! Also I have an interesting statement regarding this point. I was guessing around 1.5bar would be max boost on a Stock Rb30 bottom end. I am running RB26 head by the way. So nice compression. What do you say? Some one said this to me... 'The boost thing, its funny, people worry too much, and to be honest, its not much about the strength of the internals, its about the quality of the mapping. The increased pressure is nothing, say another 15psi boost in the cyls, 2bar rather than 1bar say. When it comes down to it, cylinder pressure on a most performance engines are 10-11bar standard, boost as a pressure itself does nothing too scary. Its exactly how these race diesels run 150psi+ because the cyl pressure isnt the issue, its the pressure when it dets.Det increases the cyl pressure to silly amounts, and thats what breaks things, 2bar is as safe as 1bar if there no det, just mappers in the UK seem to try and make things right on the limit of det, lean and advanced as poss, and granted that gives maximum power for the boost, but it also blows it up the min something goes out of peramiter!Safe fuel and ign settings, and you would be suprised what you can safely run.' I can see the point to some extent but surely there is a limit which will be determined by the engine internal strength and static compression ratio. Thoughts please. Thanks Lee

Thanks Titan, I'll give these guy's a try. Lee

Hey there, I am getting very different prices on parts across suppliers so much that it actually won't save me getting them in one place! Ideally I would but being in the UK it is hard work finding a good plae to get parts in Aus.. I coud really do wth some help on that front. I found a gasket set for a steel but the can't get the R30 parts. then I found ACL bearings for a bargain but again they could not get the other parts! Please help! Also finding someone to ship overseas is not easy. So I need to find some aftermarket rings that will fit straight in the Stock non-turbo RB30 pistons?

Nice pics!! That does nicely thank you! What's the external oil filter housing part in the third pic?? Is that for an external pump or something? What spec you got and what power are you hoping to get? Cheers Lee

Thanks for that.. Any idea where the cheapest place to get a set of stock RB30E piston rings is? Thank you Lee

Can anyone tell me if the RB30E and RB30ET pisotns rings are the same?? i.e can I put turbo piston rings on a non-turbo piston? Thank you Lee

Thanks All! Hole is in my block now so fingers crossed! I have looked at some other blocks and some seem to have some very different hole positions.. I am guessing it's not really thqt critical within reason as the tensioner has a fair bit of adjustment. Hey Al, Nice looking motor! Looking at you turbo oil feed line (unless it's the water one?).. Are you running a series 1 block by any chance? If so would be interested to see what you did about oil and water feeds? I was planning on getting my oil feed from the pressure switch. and draining to the sump.. water is easy enough to put in where it belongs! Any more pic of your build? Cheers Lee

Has anyone had any isues with the tensioner pulley or belt rubbing on the cam gear cover or lower belt cover going from the 30 build manual? It suggests mocking it up but that would be a lot easier said than done. I gather the general opinion seems to be setting the pulley out a further 1mm than the manual suggests so you get more movement on the tensioner. Any info please..

I am about to be doing this to my RB30 block.. However I have a question. looking from the front of the engine the stock tensioner position on the RB30 is to the left of the engine/belt.. can I keep this position or do I need to move it to the right side? I was planning on putting the other tension above the water pump and on the right side. The reason I ask is the pics I have seen show the exact opposite set-up so I wondered if there was a particular reason for this? If I have to move the lower tensioner over there is a hole for the stud.. but no flat area around it to lock it up against. wil I need to weld and machine the block back or something? also where do you put the small stud for the tensioner spring or do you do away with that? Thanks Lee