leeroy_25

Jarrod.. You the man!! We are cooking on gas.. Sure as hell the boost kit is set to on from factory! Who's stupid idea was that?! So a hell load of grief and worry for a simple yes or no.. allbeit in Japanese! Cheers guy's Lee

Thanks for the thread link and info. I am on stock AFM's and have put in injector correction. I will try to check boost kit is disabled. if still no go then I need to get the ECU checked for sure. Lee

Thanks for all the replies guy's.. Hopefully it is just bad luck and the apexi basemap won't run the motor? I will look at the boost control setting to check that. I have reset the ECU for clarification.. No tune on it just the factory settings and my upgraded injectors. Jarrod83 - I will have to check the model. I presume you mean what serial number version? I have no wideband to check fuel mix. But have tried a number of settings on the fuel injectors to richen or lean it out and they make no difference at all. Worse case I can take it to a tuner and swap the ECU in there but I wouldn't mind trying to solve the issue first incase it is a sensor and not the ECU otherwise it's a wasted trip. I will need to get someone to trailer it for me as it is not taxed or MOT'd yet! On a seperate note.. Keiron.. is that your car with a R33/R34 conversion? Pic link please! I did not know that conversion existed. R32/R34 yes.. I have to say the Best bit of the 34 is the front end would like to see how they go together. Cheers Lee

Following my previous post I have made some progress! I had the injectors out and cleaned. Checked and checked again for loose or damaged pipes. reset the ECU again, Tried a number of settings for the injectors.. Removed the idle control valve and cleaned it.. No good.. Car will not idle. If you keep blipping the throttle it's fine. but if you try and hold it at any rpm.. (I was only brave enough to go just around 3k) then it will die. I think at one point we had it idling around 2k but as soon as the rpm dropped it died. Tried unplugging the MAF's to get limp mode and it wouldn't even start. So I thought jsut for curiosity I would put the stock ECU in and see what happened. Turned the key and it barked into life perfectly! Idle was smooth as you like even picked up fine with a slight rev. So, clearly my problem is something relating to my Apexi ECU.. Couple of points.. 1)Will the boost control kit setting being on if you don't have it fitted cause this? Is it set on from factory or off? As it is in japanese so I cannot tell! I read it must be off if not connected. 2)I read some ECU's have glitches which can be cured by unplgging the commander?! 3) Looked in the sensor check screen after the car had been run and stalled and noticed that the following had the circle next to them highlight. IGN, ECC, WRN, IDL I gather the stock ECU is more forgiving against sensor faults so maybe one of these is the issue although I don't know what they are so can someone shed some light please? Any other thoughts as to the problem would be great.. It was good to finally hear it run properly though!! Cheers Lee

Trust me. I Have no intention of playing with it myself! Purely want to start it up and make sure it runs okay and has no big leaks! Aims is to richen my base map to be double safe for the few seconds it will be running! Thank you for the warning though.

Hi there Anthony, I had a hectic weekend and didn't quite get where I wanted to hence I have not been in touch. I will add you to my MSN tonight with any luck and have a chat. Thanks again. I guess you are no in Australia at present then?! Regards Lee

I hope to run my RB30/RB26 up over the weekend to check it runs and iron out any leaks that may occur. I wanted to know if I will be safe running it on the RB26 Apexi ECU base map or if I need to tweak some fuel settings to be safe? I have a hand controller. No datalogit. The engine has 700cc Sard injectors which I can plug into the hand controller and I am leaving it on stock MAF's for now. I have Q45's to put on but I gather they are a little tricky to work with on an RB26 ECU as they are not an option. Anyway that is a different thread all together. If I can change some settings to richen it up a bit I would appreciate some brief instructions. alternatively if there is a self learn function that will work for the idle please let me know. Thank you Lee

Hi Guys I seem to think I read somewhere you can get a Q45 adapter to bolt to a Q45 MAF so you can stick a filter on it? Also I thought you could buy Apexi filters that bolt straight on the Q45 MAF but I cannot find any info on this. Is it all rumours and will I need to fabricate something to use the Q45's? Thank you Lee

Primed and ready! Injected some oil down the cooler line back to the pump and turned then engine backwards a bit then popped out the plugs and spun it over.. Light went off after about minute or so! What a relief! Cheers Lee

Thanks for the reply.. This was my plan. I will pull off the oil filter so I know which pipe to use and then pressure some oil back down it and turn the engine backwards a turn or two as you say. I gather there are no worries turning the engine backwards. Like cambelt riding off or something daft. I can't see it as the tensior is locked in place. Thank you Lee

Please can I have some help here guy's. I finally got my engine turning over to try and prime up the oil system. No oil seems to be getting through the system. It got assembled some time ago and I have to say I don't think I put any oil in the pump when I put it on? Also I am running an oil cooler and currently dry oil filter. The latter I can resolve easily enough. But having read a post somewhere I recall a dry pump might not seal and draw properly? Can someone tell me how I can get around this with my oil cooler setup to try and get some oil back to the pump and get it priming. So far I cracked off one of the pipes and turning it over for a minute or so to see if all would come through but nothing. Also I will pull the plugs back out so it can turn over quicker! Thank you Lee

Fixed it! Cleaned the terminal again and got some new jump leads! Turns over fine! Cheers Lee

Hoping someone can give me some help here that is not bad news! I tried to turn over my RB26/RB30 today to find there seems to be a problem with the starter motor. I bought the car with a seized RB26 and replaced it with and RB30/RB26 motor. The motor all turns over fine so that's not a problem. I fitted a Nismo twin plate clutch to it. Which I got second hand. Basically the starter throws out and then starts chattering as if you have a flat battery. So I pulled the starter out and gave it a clean put some WD40 in it and spun it over on a battery and it seems fine? Put it back in and same thing. Throws out and starts to chatter. Just to make sure the flywheel was not in a funny position I put the car in gear and rocked it. Doing so I noticed the sound of the starter motor disengaging from the ring gear. Every time you fire it out it appears to stick. Rock the car and it drops out again. Can someone shed any light on this. Is there any way I have been sold a flywheel that has a different ring gear or spacing? Did I need to space the flywheel out or something that I missed? Damaged teeth on the starter? Or just a dudd starter motor under load? Just for reference I have no battery in the boot and I am jumping off a battery to the front terminals. Thank you Lee

Thanks guy's, Insurance sounds good to me! I meant waste in the sense of if it tries to blow it out cos the level is too high. So that makes the new oil capaity around 6.5 litres? Just checking.. Plus I need about another 1/2 litre for my oil cooler too I reckon! It's 25 row? Thank you Lee

That was kind of my thinking but I don't want to be wasting good oil if I don't need that much! Now that I am running an RB26 sump and dipstick tube if there is a difference with the RB30 that doesn't really help me. Thats why I swapped to all RB26 bits so it matched the sump. Cheers Lee

It may be a silly question but for my R30/RB26 build what oil level do I need in the oil pan? I fitted an RB26 dipstick and tube to the block and it has a sump adapter on 10mm thick so will my max oil level be 10mm lower than the max marked on the dipstick or because I have the sump adapter am I okay (or should I aim) to fill it up to the max mark? Cheers Lee

Guy's I have some Q45's for my new build and I wanted to check on how the wiring joins up to the RB26 (R33).. Are the pin positions the same relative to the plugs between the RB26 MAF's and Q45's? I presume if so I could take the pins out of the two plugs and swap them instead of cutting and splicing the looms. So I have Q45 plugs on my RB26 loom? My other option if the pins don't fit is get some duff RB26 MAF's and solder my Q45 pigtails to the MAF plug. Advice appreciated. Thank you Lee

Hi Titan, Your turbo is smaller and sits lower so that helps.. do you not have any signs on the timing belt cover of the bonnet rubbing on it? It must be bouncing when you drive along as there is littler about 2-3mm clearance from what I can tell?! I might put some 10mm spacer and lift the rear of the bonnet on the hinges which will aid cooling anyway and give me a little more room for the turbo to clear.. I preusme a turbo beenie is the heatwrap that goes around the exhaust housing? might look into one.. Are they turbo specific? Cheers Lee

I have just fitted my RB30 to my R33 GTR.. What a cow of a job, partly due to the setup I am running on the turbo and that little bit of block hieght makes quite a difference! I would like to know for you guy's that have them in your R33's. Did you space the front of the sub-frame down a few mm to give the front of the engine more bonnet clearance? Or have you just taken out the factory sound proofing and put some adhesive heat relfective stuff on the bonnet so when it bounces around it doesn't rattle?? Also where the top mount turbo is must be more than just a little close so do you need to run some heat relfective matt above the turbo to protect the bonnet? And again where the turbo and manifold are all quite close to the suspension turret and the wiring loom running along this do you re-route the loom if possible ? Or just get some heat reflective shielding for it? I guess the metal brake and A/C pipes are okay? Or do I need to do some metal shields for them too?! It all closes fine but I noticed you only need to press the bonnet above the timing cover by a couple of mm before it hits! Some advice please guy's. Cheers Lee

I have a small issue.. When I took my engine out months ago I obviously realised I needed to undo the steering column to rack spline to let the subframe drop. Only problem is I have also knocked the column up a bit to release the spline from the knuckle and I now cannot get the damn thing back down. I cannot see what's moved though. Basically I tapped the big tube section that sticks out from the bulkhead with a hammer to knock it up and there is nothing to tap to get it back down! I tried to clamp some grips arond the shaft just above the spline and tap it down but no joy. Strange thing its the steering wheel is not sticking out too far as I was going to try and tap it down from that end but there is no spare movement there. Judging by the clean bit on the splines I reckon it's got to come down 10mm. Is there a trick I am missing here or has something moved that should have further up the column?! I would feel much happier if I could get a bit more of the spline engaged! Has anyone got a sevice manual page they can post please? It would really help to see what I am up against and work out whats moved. Please help! Cheers Lee

Good come back! I am a little behind on this thread but get the general gist.. I agree with the physics bit for cars under acceleration but on the same note the most recent post points to constant throttle which is what causes the problem in the first place. max acceleration is probably not going to be held for a long period of time.. Where as your car on the track is very likely to be seeing high rpm for long periods.. Acceleration and main g forces on a track are also less likely to be in a straight line.. i.e front to back. mostly the car/oil wil be seeing side ways loads. that throws another different spin on things.. Main point being your higher rpm will more likely be a lower g's as you have done the bulk of your accelerating already. I would still like to know the agruements as to where in the sump the drain should go? i.e above or below oil level? Lee

I would like to know this also.. So are we saying that oil will not normally pass down the pipe? Or it might but generally it will be an air passage? It read to me in the earlier post that the pipe should be below oil level in the sump? However surely it would then not allow passing air or fluid? I have seen a few people with the pipe fittings in the front r/h side of the sump around where the dipstick is above the baffle? That's where I intended to put mine. Another point is if this is not an oil drain then why the hell are we all struggling to fit a fitting in the tight space at the back of the motor? Could you not have a fitting out of one of the rocker covers down to the sump or there is plug in the exhaust side of the head that you could take out and possibly get a ftting in. that would equire grinding a bit off the manifold though and it possibly is not a good place for oil to be passing by in the event of a leak!

Hey there buddy.. i was in the same boat a few weeks ago! I had forgotten to sort it when the block was stripped too so it was even worse.. here is what I did: I measured how far out the surface of the block need to come to meet level with the other tension position. then I got a large flat washer of the appropriate thickness and diameter and using some metal paste bonded it to the block using a a bolt to align it to the existing hole and another flat washer to try and get it bonded somewhere near square. I used paste as 1) my block is built and didn't want to start welding it. 2) I think welding cast is a bit of a trick from what I have heard! At this point if your block is not built then you can throw it up on a mill and mill over the washer to get the height and flatness perfect. Alternatively I made a 10mm pilot shaft which I screwed into the block and then turned up a bar with a nuts on 10mm reamed hole through it to locate on the pilot shaft and OD to match the washer. I then made an attachment to fit the block into a hand drill and mounted some coarse grit wet and dry to the end of the block.. Slide the block over the shaft and sand away until you get a shiny clean sand surface all around your washer.. Then it's square! Job done! I will try and post picks later if you need as I have not got around to doing a build thread yet. Good luck Lee

Thanks for the reply again.. It's a Holset turbo if that helps? I looked inside the tubro where the oil fitting goes and there are two smalle holes about 2-3m diameter.. presumably one going to each end of the turbo? Does that sound reasonable? It would be ideal to have this sorted before I put it in the car as there won't be much room for work once it's in! If I don't need to open out the hole in te block it would be better.. But then at the same point if I am not going to get enough flow from the smaller hole I really need to know so I can open something up.. or are you fairly confident the 1/8" oil pressure hole is an adequate feed size as it is? Thank you Lee

Hey man, Must picked thsi reply up! Thanks for the info.. I have a journal bearing turbo by the way.. I'll try and bore out the centre of the tee piece a bit to open it up some in that case and it should be sweet. Cheers Lee