Jump to content
SAU Community

leeroy_25

Members
  • Posts

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by leeroy_25

  1. I am building an RB30/RB26 ad running a single turbo setup.. I have the series 1 block which does not have the oil feed in it for a turbo so was planning to take a feed from the oil pressure switch. What I noticed though is I think most the turbo takes a -4AN (1/4") bore fitting where as the oil switch is only 1/8"NPT Will I get sufficient oil for the turbo from here? Looking in side the turbo it seems the oil holes to the bearings are only very small but I want to be sure.. I guess I could open up the oil switch hole in the bock to take a larger fitting but only want to do that as a last resort as the engine is pretty much built and I don't want to risk getting metal swarf inside the gallery when drilling and tapping it out! Advice please. Thank you Lee
  2. I am building an RB30/RB26 ad running a single turbo setup.. I have the series 1 block which does not have the oil feed in it for a turbo so was planning to take a feed from the oil pressure switch. What I noticed though is I think most the turbo takes a -4AN (1/4") bore fitting where as the oil switch is only 1/8"NPT Will I get sufficient oil for the turbo from here? Looking in side the turbo it seems the oil holes to the bearings are only very small but I want to be sure.. I guess I could open up the oil switch hole in the bock to take a larger fitting but only want to do that as a last resort as the engine is pretty much built and I don't want to risk getting metal swarf inside the gallery when drilling and tapping it out! Advice please. Thank you Lee
  3. I Just fitted my cam belt on my RB30/RB26 build.. How can I check the tension on it? I am running an idler at the bottom and a tensioner at the top using the dayco belt. Fitted a treat! I have not got the spring on the tensioner as there is no where to locate it. I presume this is normal practice? Can I tension it using a torque wrench in the hex tension hole? If so what torque setting do I need and then how can I give a manual check on the belt? I.e by how much twist should it have and on which area of the belt. Thank you Lee
  4. Hell no! I'll be more than happy with that at the flywheel! Thanks though. Lee
  5. Thanks man.. RIPs says the same.. Whe you guys' talk 600bhp I presume you mean flywheel power.. not at the hubs? Cheers Lee
  6. Hi guys' External is another option I was considering.. When I have it at that stage I will look a little closer. I was planning to make a jig off my RB26 block and oil pickup to get the pickup end in the correct position and then create the necessary pipe work between that to reach the RB30 block. if I run into problems I will explore the external route.. I like a challenge and I can hopefully stand back proud at the end of the day knowing I did it myself. Assuming it doesn't go bang off course! Shouldn't really joke! Lee
  7. Hey guys' Yes I am the same guy.. I wasn't actually intending to sell them at the time and as I pointed out in my ad I can only get very few done. In life you don't ask.. you don't get. How much is an oil pickup then? I am going to run a std 4wd sump with additional baffling. Cheers Lee
  8. I have tried searching on this and cannot get any matches.. I am building a RB30 with RB26 head and 4WD sump.. I know I need to mod the oil pickup pipe to suit but was after some advice on this.. Which is the easier pickup pipe to start the mod with? The RB26 one or the RB30 one? When fitted to their associated block are they both picking up oil from the same point in space? If so then I guess the RB30 is easier to Mod as it shoul donly need extending in height to cater for the adapter plate? Otherwise I figure I need to extend it in length so it's in the correct point in the sump well and then increase the depth of it by the thickness of the sump adapter? Is that about the size of it? Thank you Lee
  9. I am building my RB30 with an RB26 head using RB25 bolts.. May sound like a silly question but what washers should I use? The RB25 ones or the RB26 ones?? or does it not make much difference? The RB25 ones fit the bolt perfectly but presumably have a smaller bearing surface onto the cylinder head? What's the norm? Thank you Lee
  10. Hey There I am after 2 set s of 740cc injectors Top feed to suit standard R33 GTR RB26 fuel rail and plug fittings.. What brand are the ones you are selling and how much? I am in the UK by the way.. Hopefully you can ship? Thank you Lee
  11. Also just saw you have the 800cc SARD injectors. Where did you get them and how much? what about the connectors? I presume you need to cut the OEM fittings off and splice on new ones? Do you know if they will fit an OEM fuel rail maybe with spacers under it?? Would appreciate the info if you know. Cheers Lee
  12. Good stuff.. What power are you hoping to make? Interesting Idler pulley postion.. Did the belt tension up okay? I presume you have kept the stock RB30 tensioner pulley postion? I am about halfway through my own build! ust looking at the external oil drain and oil feed issues. What did you go for regards these? Look forward to seeing the dyno results! Lee
  13. I am getting ready to do my external oil drain from the head.. The notes say to put this into the sump.. Can I tee into the oil return in the side of the block where the turbo drains to instead? I am running single turbo. Or should I drain them both to the sump? I am running an rb26 with 4WD sump. Thank you Lee
  14. Thanks CJ.. I just found the DSM thread myself.. joined the forum to see if I can get a bit more info.. As far as my research tells me HX40's can come with T4 if 16cm or bigger.. Hard part is finding one with an external gate.. If you don't mind what is your engines spec and set-up and how's your holest performing for you?? I can't wait to get one! I am going for the 16cm to get my spool up nice and quick.. Am only going for 600bhp tops so shouldn't run out of steam before that. Wouldn't mind a 19cm for my rotary motor though! Also the 7 blade is the preferred config although the 8 is very common. I have to say I have not seen many if any 6 blades when looking.. 99% of what's on offer is the 8 blade type. if I have to mix and match housings I will but ideally i'll get one ready to roll! Cheers Lee
  15. I am hoping someone can help.. I am looking for a couple of holset units but cannot get anything without supplying a part number for the assembly.. I need an HX40 with 16cm T4 exhaust housing and preferably 7 blade compressor and 3" antisurge inlet. with V-band both ends. It woul also be better if it was external type wastegate. I then require the exact same unit with a 19cm housing. If anyone is running either of these units, please can they give me some part numbers off them or can someone try and point me in the right direction to find them.. I am in the UK and even though these units are made here no one seems to know jack about them! Thank you Lee
  16. I was checking over my head today and I noticed that the nominal valve clearances seem huge compared to most engines I have experience with. nearly 0.5mm.. Has anyone experimented with reducing them to say 0.25mm. this would increase lift and effectively duration on the cams but I guess would need adjustable pullies to time the cams correctly as this would also advance them? Any veiws I would like to know.?
  17. DR30?? I am guessing that is a very early liner? Anyway. When you say the relief valve in the block I oresume you mean the bit that looks like a ball bearing? I wouldn't have enven considered removing it! So basically it's a sandiwch plate of some sort and relocation kit or cooler kit.. 19 row not worth bothering with?? Only ask as they seem to be very common and easy to obtain! Thank you Lee
  18. cheers for the info guy's I have to say when looking at the blocks I thought the stub in the middle must be removable.. So I have two options.. Well three... RB26 oil cooler which I can see probably does jack if you are really giving the car death.. GTS4 cooler.. Is it an air cooler or water cooler?? I wasn't clear on that.. Finally get a relocation kit and fit a regular oil cooler.. I presume a 19 row regular type rad cooler would be fine for a start?? I don't intend doing heavy track use at all.. just a road toy if that helps! I was also planning on removing some of the other junk under the inlet plenum while I am at it to tidye tings up a bit.. I hear the Idle valve can be removed and then it's a cse of joining some pipes and blanking others.. By the way T04GTR.. What is the car in your avatar?? I can't make up my mind!? looks like a beast anyway..
  19. I have finished stripping down most of my RB26 donor engine rady to build up the B30.. I noticed when I took off the Oil filters there is a slight difference between the RB30 and RB26 block?? My RB26 is from an R33 and has a water cooled oil cooler that the filter then mounts to. On the RB30 the filter is direct onto the block. When you remove the cooler from the RB26 instead of having a thread, there is a lug sticking out that is a snug push fit inside the oil cooler housing (I assume this is to direct the oil flow correctly) How do I modify my RB30 block to accept the same cooler or is it easier/better to dump it and get a relocation kit and traditional type cooler? I am sure I have seen RB30's with the RB26 type cooler so presume it's possible? Thanks Lee
  20. I presume he is running an RB30/hybrid of sorts using a non-turbo bottom end for the base. if so non-turbo rings are different. I believe the second ring is thicker. Let us know chap.
  21. Hey bud, I had this same problem not too long ago.. Drop me a pm and i'll see if I can sort you out.. Please confirm your engine type (RB30 non turbo? and the ring sizes you have.. ideally thickness and bore size if over std). always good to double check! Regards Lee
  22. Just for confirmation I doubt everything I read on ebay!! Hence my post!! I generally doubt most things I read unless they are backed up! I figured they probably weren't as good as splitfires but if they were an improvement on stock then it's worth knowing if mine can't handle it! Thank you for the info by the way. Saves my blowing money unnecessarily at this stage! Lee
  23. I am building a RB30/RB26 and aiming for around 550bhp.. Are aftermarket coil packs a must? If so what options do I have? I have seen some on ebay that are advertised as bein as good as splitfire coil packs.. anyone used anything other than Splitfire? Recommendations please. Thank you Lee
  24. Doing an RB30/RB26.. I want to run a Nismo thermostat. I presume the RB26 one will fit the RB30 block? Can someone please confirm.. Thank you Lee
  25. Hi There, I say good choice! Good on you for daring to be different! I have been researching this for some time now and seems a good option.. can see plenty of boost of lots of people use them in the states on petrol cars with very good results. I expect lost of people wil also slate the idea as it's different and it doesn't say garret on the box.. I am due to be purchasing mine early next month. I am going for an HX40 Unless you are going for some monster power that's probably all you will need. Try some US forums and you might get some better info.. I posted here about it a while ago and not too much response. Can let you know how I get on with mine if you like. Good Luck Lee
×
×
  • Create New...