stagefumer11

Very easy to set up time waster, you build strength weapons etc as you have more fights: Its getting big on sdu, So i decided to bring it here.. Fight me if you can Its overly addictive http://stagefumer11.mybrute.com/cellule This link will get you started and make you my pupil

Why do you want to dished pistons?. Flattops Have a better flame front.. Higher compression isnt a problem. Its all the the tune.. Btw, you dont need a 3.1L to make 300rwkw.. You can do 300rwkw on a Stock n42/n42 combo l28... You dont need the cubes for the power in the L Serries..

no worries

Rarely will the crank bend.. The L serries cranks are internaly balanced. The harmonic balancer does what the name says. Harmonics. Pretty sure your crank will be fine. You might find with the aluminum Balancer has changed the mass on the crank and you now notice the Su carb problem

Pretty sure my post above explained that easly enough. But here is a pic You can just see the oil return on the bottom edge of the exhasut housing.. EAsly seen here

Both l20et's i have do not have the oil return going into that location, Looking at the pic go to 2/3rd's back from the front of the engine, where pan is thin, you will see a small bump. Thats where it goes in the factory l20et sump.

I dont trust anything NZ reports for vehicals. e.g Mine is registerd as a 1985 r30.. But its clearly a early 82, Everying matches up with it.

there are alot of diffrent spec r30's weights are all over the place. Mine is confurmed at stock 1170kg.. When i get back home ill try and sort out a good copy of the information i have

YES. Ill find it

Correct. My GT-ES.. (no power steering, No power windows. Limited stuff) is around 1120kg..

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23723

there was a geocities site that had the full wiring diagram for the hr30... Im unsure if its still there anymore Ill see what i can find. Ive finished building my l28et and about to drop it in this weekend. If you need any insite. you know what ya need to do

daaaawwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwuuhhhhhhhhhhhhhh dam it

whoaaaaaaaaaaaaa!, Im gonna sit back and watch this now.

ive been f**ked around like you wouldn't beleive with people here in NZ , I Dont mind helping out or giving knowlege. . So your all safe.

no idea on that one, I lost out on money for my freshly rebuild l20et head, and a good AFM. and a BOV.......

hell no he doesnt, not welcome here in my books either, After all the help me and ghostrider did for him, I get shafted and loose out on a fair whack of money. he swapped his run down pnv for a even worse crummy 4 door.

no problem, its been sitting around for over a year now

ive got a good condition l20et ecu up for grabs if needed. Ive gone aftermarket.

ah that arse!..... hurrrmmmm. Ill keep calm eh haha.

what option did you use for the bottom end oil pickup mod ?

Im using s14 kei-office fronts in mine. And got a good -4deg negative camber. Fully wound in.

Dont worry about what's stamped on them, They usually either have F or E.. of corse apart from the C l26 cam

yes correct l26 cam, isnt a nismo cam.. Still a factory cam. Either way isnt best suited for a l20et or any turbo aplication due to it having a large amount of overlap. It will blead off to much pressure. There are factory released l24et's beleive it or not. Listed on nissan's database. No one knows the specs of those cams, If what you are talking about is using the l28e cam inplace of a factory l24 cam. From what i understand the l24 uses external oil rail for the cam, compared to the l28e cam using a internal feed. you can correct this buy swapping the cam towers from a l28.