Fhrx

Obviously budget is important but if you're looking at the cheaper side of things: Boston FS60 www.bostonacoustics.com Hertz HSK165 www.hertzaudiovideo.com Phoenix Gold ZR6.5 www.phoenixgold.com Vibe SA-K60 www.vibeaudio.com.au Morel Pulse 6 www.morel.co.il Eton Pro160 www.etongmbh.com Diamond M361 www.diamondaudio.com Focal 165A www.focal.tm.fr/gb/car/index.htm Crossfire SR6 www.crossfirecaraudio.com If the budget can be rasied a little, check these out: Boston Pro60 www.bostonacoustics.com Image Dynamics CXS64 www.imagedynamics.com Phoenix Gold X6.5 www.phoenixgold.com Vibe ST60 www.vibeaudio.com.au Morel Elate 6 www.morel.co.il Eton Adventure A1-160 www.etongmbh.com Diamond s600a www.diamondaudio.com Focal 165W www.focal.tm.fr/gb/car/index.htm DynAudio System 240 www.dynaudio.com

Sorry I didn't realise you wanted the ability to isolate them from one another.

6" / 6.5" all round I believe. In addition to our normal regular specials we often have plenty of ex-demo, second hand and new stuff taking up space that we're looking to offload cheap. Click here. Can the mods remove that line if it's breaching the rules? Cheers.

It is usually the depth that is the issue with most cars rather than the diameter. They should fit with a 2.5" mounting depth but you would need some serious spacers created. If worst comes to worst there are always much better speakers around...

If you don't want them isolated from each other just connect the two positives to each other and the two negatives to each other.

I agree. Focals win hands down in my book too. Out of those two I reckon 99 times in 100 we would sell Focal over Pioneer.

Well we sit it in the sun and then use a heat gun but this is just another reason why we often lean towards G-Spot. It doesn't need any heat.

I'll say it again; the acoustic suspension of 'most' 6x9s is not designed to run in sealed enclosures. The result is that you will not attain optimum bass at best and you'll damage the speaker at worst. On the flipside (once they're installed correctly) and for those of you doubting the bass output of 6x9s, remember the bottom (main) cone is 6x9". That is only marginally less surface area than an 8" subwoofer so they can thump quite hard..

Yeah roadkill we often do heat up yes.

Yeah Stinger Roadkill is quite nice.

Of course that won't be bias at all will it. Try an enthusiast website like CAA, not magazines that tend to lean a little towards its advertisers. CAA has done testing on sound deadening before. Check out the reviews there.

Guys, when you apply the sound deadening and you need to access the internals of the door, you simply peel it back or take it right off and then simply stick it back on. On the subject of getting the products to SAU members, we can send around Australia no problems. So photos of deadening are here.

You cannot pass on the details here?

Again I refer to my post above. High quality bass is all about power and careful enclosure design. You can blow your head off with a single 8", you can also make a 21" sub sound tight and accurate if you run it with a powerful amplifier able to control the cone.

Strong good quality subbass is all about power and thoughtful enclosure design. I can blur vision and rupture ear drums with a single 8" driver given the right amount of power and careful enclosure construction.

A few people have mentioned the sound deadening theory I wrote over PM's so I'll chuck the addy up here and some images: This is the reason why we use sound deadening. For images of what it should look like, Click here. There are guides floating around of how to do entire doors too for various cars, some are: http://www.caraudioaustralia.com/forums/sh...ad.php?p=498227 http://forums.fastfours.com.au/viewtopic.php?t=92055 Hope that helps a little.

The question gets asked so often that I actually have the spiel ready to cut'n'paste! In my heap is: Source: Clarion HXD2 / Alpine CVA-1000E / Toshiba SD-1300 Processors: Rane EQX / Crystal Line driver Amps: Zapco Reference 750.2 (3), Zapco Reference 1100.1 (1), Zapco Reference 360.4 (1) Splits: Rainbow Reference 6" midrange / Morel Supremo (main) tweeter / Boston Z (ambient) tweeter / Boston FX4 center Rear: Supra 6" Sub: Resonant Engineering XXX12 Interconnects: Zapco SymbiLink balance / QED / Streetwires / Stinger Battery: Optima D34M / Stinger SPV1000 Here are a couple of photos of it half finished..

In QLD we tend to recommend Chris Rogers. His details are: http://www.soundoff.net.au/shop/ 0407 102 839 Fax: (07) 3256 7741 Email: [email protected]

Well I'm still trying to perfect my 'striking a match on the bar of soap' technique... :headspin:

No problems. I might just mention you're not alone in that department. We see many people with the same issue. It's quite common.

Ten bucks says you earthed the deck out on the illumination wire. This wire is earthed when the head lights are off, but is 12 volt when they're on. As you can imagine, unless you're installing your system with your lights on, this can cause some dramas if you're not sure which wire is which.

I was only asking. The reason why is that our 'sales pitches' can take months and involve a lot of testing and planning. I was just asking if he wanted a quick fix install rather than an involved one. Just trying to ensure I'm not wasting anybodies time, thats all. :P

With all due respect this might seem like a flipant question but should I bother trying to contact you and continue our correspondance via email champ or are you only interested in going out asap and getting the first thing you come accross? I just thought we could both save time if you're not overly interested in getting the best sound for your money?

Okay then, when is a good time to meet up? I ask this because it is alot easier to talk about systems and bounce ideas off each other with both you and the car in front of us. Also is saves me having to type a ten thousand word thesis on sound theory and system design. Mind you, some of the things I'll tell you about you'll find on our FAQ page within our website.

You're certainly doing the right thing consulting people before jumping head first into a $5k plus install. Just for the record I would use totally different components if I was buying the system but I'll only elaborate if you want me to. I'm more than happy to have a chat with you about your planned system if you wish?