datsun_1600

Sorry missed this. Based off these voltages i'm guessing the G sensor is too far gone to fix. As mentioned above, try the caps as they only cost almost nothing, but I'm guessing a new G sensor is in order....

I've seen that one too mate. I even took a pic as it looked nice. Not sure who owns it though...

When you say "goes to 5v" what do you mean ? Your pin 6 reading suggest either a bent pendulum or buggered hall effect sensors. It is possible to sort of make it work. But in my opinion I think it would be better to find a new / replacement one. If you go all out and replace stuff it will work sum what, but the response from the 4WD system will be unpredictable. ie. Will come on too late, too early, too fast, or too slow...or the wrong amount of bias. Jeff

I've done a lot of messing around the G-Sensor - for sure, if it's not calibrated, it will cause what you are seeing. I've even done it deliberately for some tests. Although if it's as bad as you say, I would expect it to throw an error.

Or even a different material could cause it too (ie capacitive vs hall effect sensor) Just spit balling, but if the R32 ones were alloy and the R33 teeth were steel, then that would be an issue, you would have to change the sensors over too. (doubt they would be compatible though)

I'm not sure about this at all - but are the number of teeth on the R33 diff different to the R32's ? That would cause the computer to think the rear wheels were turning at a speed than the front wheels

Awesome - thanks for the info guys. Jeff

Hi guys, I know it's not GTR related, but I need an top notch job done on a race only Datsun L20B engine. Just wondering who offers the best crankshaft balancing services in Adelaide ? Or if required, I will send it anywhere within Australia. Regards, Jeff

Found a 1979 20cent piece behind the roof vinyl interior of my 1981 Stanza. So I can only assume the coin was lost there while the car was on the assembly line. Still have the coin somewhere.... Jeff

Interesting.... Wonder why it's not building pressure in the system when you drive it.....

100 KPa = 14.49PSI would make sense.

Ah yes - sorry I got busy and wanted to reply. Should have read right through. 140psi ? Wow, I would have thought that would blow the core / welsh plugs out of the block! My very very very modified Datsun L20B engine used to do this, the only way I could stop it was to let it idle for a bit to cool off before shutting it down, and also run fans etc after it was shut off. I'm currently rebuilding the engine - it now runs an electric pre / post oil pump, electric water pump and fan after it's shut off. Jeff

The boiling point of water + whatever additive you have in there will change with pressure. The lower the pressure the lower the boiling point. I would fully expect it to make that sound if you crack the rad cap as you have released the pressure from the system. (Remember in science class making water boil at room temperature in a vacuum?) If the system is not holding pressure it will boil like this. The system will be fine while you are driving and the water temp is low. In fact, you you are just driving along at highway speeds on a coolish day it doesn't even matter if the rad cap falls off. But on a hot day, or when you stop the car and the heat from the block soaks into the water, it relies on pressure to stop it from boiling. Just my 2c Jeff

Also FYI - the PCB's look identical inside them both. Jeff

This might help a little, but I don;t have enough data to say for sure: Of the 2 pre 1991 GTR's i've seen G-Sensors on they have the ATSUGI sticker. Of the 4 or so 1992~93 models I have seen, they have all had the UNISIA sticker. But, as I say, not really enough data to say for sure that the UNISIA ones are newer... Jeff

Thanks for the info - I wasn't aware of that. The engine number starts with RB2603 so the dates match up at least! Cheers, Jeff

Hi All, I've been searching around for days trying to figure out if there is a way to confirm that the engine in my car is the original one that came with it. The trouble is that the engine number does not appear on the build plate, in Nissan FAST, or even on the original sales documentation from back in 1993. I can confirm that the engine number matches the SA rego, but that really doesn't mean bugger all. I've called Nissan and as it's not in their FAST software they can't help. Seems quite a few people run into this but I couldn't find any answers on if they were able to work it out. Thanks in advance, Jeff

Hi, I'm after a 200SX S15 6 speed gearbox. Need one in good condition, but don't want to spend a ton of $$$ as i'm going to hack it up while adapting it to Datsun L series engine for my Stanza project... I see them on the net from $350 ~$1800 hoping for something in the $500~$700 range. All the ones I see are interstate - hence my post here. link to my gumtree ad (hope this is ok to post): http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/seaford/engine-engine-parts-transmission/wanted-200sx-s15-6-speed-gearbox/1003803650 Thanks, Jeff

Another update - I think I have worked out what went wrong. I just inspected the idler tensioner pulley. To my great surprise I found it totally stuffed. Brand new Nissan OEM part. I am guessing as it has so much free play it caused the belt to not run true, which pushed the belt into into the spring, which took a few good chunks out.... New one coming in tomorrow...

Update - Pulled the bottom cover off. The only thing I could see was they idler puller tensioner spring was not sitting on the locating dowel. But it was correct when it was installed so i'm guessing the belt strands dislodged it... The belt strands also look like they have wrapped around the cams and crank taking out the oil seals... Wish I could see what the inner side of the belt rubbed on....

I should add - seals were done just before I got the car - wasn't sure if the belt was done or not - so I decided to change it.

Cheers mate will do - everything is genuine Nissan stuff. Didn't replace the front main or cam seals as they were done about 30K ago... but i'll be doing them now I guess.....oh well live and learn - i'll post back with what caused it when I pull the bottom cover off tomorrow....

Hey - it was a sad day in the shed today... I changed the timing belt and tensioners on my R32 GTR and now I have some serious problems.... I would consider myself fairly experienced in the shed, i've built say 10 high performance L series Datto engines and have tinkered in the shed since I could walk. Changed quite a few timing belts over the years with no issues. OK so this is how it went down: 1.) Pulled the old timing belt and tensioners off 2.) replaced the tensioners 3.) Fitted the belt (100% sure timing was ok - and it still is ok) 4.) Adjusted belt tension as per the book. Timing belt flex was basically the same as the old one. 5.) Tuned it over a few times by hand - tension all ok. 5.) Refitted everything required to run except upper cam pulley cover 6.) Fitted the CAS without the cover and started the engine - all ok. 7.) Ran it for a few mins and observed the belt - ran true and was all ok 8.) Fitted the covers etc etc etc 9.) Started it and it and after about 10 seconds it made a strange sound - like the a flange rubbing on the front pully or something. 10.) Killed it immediately (was standing at the engine so I guess it ran for a few seconds) I stood there for a good ten mins thinking about what it could have been... anyhoo... I then noticed oil leaking from under the front pulley... I pulled the top cam cover off and noted that the new belt had partly disintegrated and there was oil everywhere. I haven't pulled the bottom cover off yet so I don't know if if the oil is coming from the front main or the cam towers or what. Has anyone got any ideas as to what might have gone wrong ? New tensioners look ok but can't tell if they are stuffed until I pull the radiator bottom covers etc etc. It almost looks like the belt was rubbing on something - the edge facing towards the engine...Then it shredded and the long sting bits wedged up hard again the oil seals and took them out... Any ideas ? I'll grab a new belt / seals tomorrow - but I just don't want this to happen again... Thank god the belt didn't break. Cheers, Jeff

Back from wedding holiday etc - i'll finish off that writeup on fixing that sensor this weekend....

Hey - I guess it's possible that a wire got broken - but with the voltages you have I would expect and error code 13... Sounds to me like the sensor is buggered - but I could be wrong.... Jeff