datsun_1600

All the schematic and PCB footprints are done, FPGA's came in.... Didn't get time to pull my G-sensor as I was driving my car all weekend... Jeff

Yeah I totally get what you mean. I'd love to have the time to totally replace the controller with something better, but as i'm always so busy with work I don't want to start something I'll never get around to finishing. I agree, def would be the better choice... I'd love to have the source code of the current controller, just looking at the maths would be sweet. I think to start with i'm gonna stick with just a digital replacement for the G-sensor. But, if you wanna have a crack at replacing the controller I'd sure be interesting in lending a hand (if you want it). My bro is also in Melbourne (sort of) and has a R32-GTR i'm sure avail for testing etc. Just started the schematic etc for the digital G-sensor. I use the latest Altium Designer but can release it in whatever file type ppl want when it's done. (Maybe just the Gerbers so ppl can order the PCB's etc ??) The unit i'm building is a little overkill as I'm also going to use it for another project, but yeah I reckon around too that about $100 would be about right for a cut down unit just to replace the G-sensors. Jeff

Hey mate. Not sure why it would start then stop working unless the pot moved just a tiny bit and flipped the bias voltage low. Might have happened as you set it really close to max... So it would only take a tiny bump... Awesome to have Bozz onboard. The accelerometer is actually a really cool old school design. Is uses a magnetic pendulum suspended in about 30000~40000 weight silicon lube (for dampening) and a hall effect sensor to measure its position. Not sure witch components drift over the years... I'm guessing the hall effects. But they are moulded into the housing. I think (if I remember correctly) they there were the only components on the back side of the PCB. But when I pull it out again. (Hopefully this weekend) ill check. I was more interested in going digital so I could fiddle with settings on the fly etc, I kinda didn't look into the root cause of why the sensors drift and die. Does anyone have a broken unit that maybe they could donate/lend to Bozz or myself? If you need a better quality image Booz of the top drop me an pm with your email.... There were also some resistors on a little side PCB between the output of the top PCB and the header... Didn't look like it did much so I didn't take a pic. Originally the pic was just for myself so I knew what it looked like before I fiddled with components. I think the op-amps have gone are EOL but there might be a drop in ??? (haven't looked...) Awesome to have somebody else gett'n into this. Just landed back in Adelaide yesterday.... so I should be able to take a look at stuff as needed... Jeff Sent from my HTC

PM sent for Power fc boost control unit.... Thanks! Jeff

Bah just lost my last post... Some testers in the Adelaide area (R32 GTR required) would be helpful. Better yet a track day or something (safer). I need to gather info from the factory system to calibrate mine, so I have to download info with a laptop after a few laps (hard, med and slow, and even grandma driving). I have all the components in now, just need to do the PCB when I get back home... Jeff

Yeah totally. Hopefully when I get a spare moment i'll finish off my idea for a new module and make the project open source etc so everyone can have it. Using a Bosch Sensortec BMA180 G sensor, Altera Cycline II FPGA, (not sure which DAC yet), JTAG etc etc etc. Another trade off is if you wanted you can play with the four wheel drive bias characteristics. I have the IC's but haven't done the PCB yet. lol i'll get to is sometime soon I hope... Hard to get motivated a bit coz I work with electronics all day at work, the last thing I want to do it work on electronic stuff after work too lol. Jeff

Hey sorry for the delay. Some of the equipment I design is used in the shuttle launches and I was invited by NASA to go to the last one. I get back to Aus on the 6th of Sept so i'll have a crack at it then. I haven't forgotten!!!! I'm also in the process of building a replacement with today's modern IC's, but lol i get busy with work so i have no idea when that will be done. Funny that about $20 bucks worth of today's IC's can replace a $$$$$$$ unit. Jeff

I just went through this a few months ago. I have a pull type clutch in my R32 (same as you, built after Feb 1993) I ended up ordering a clutch for an R33 which fitted no problem. I did a lot of talking to ppl to make sure I could return it if it turned out to not fit first though. Good luck!

If it's jumping from 2.67ish to 1.64 then you might just be turning the pots the wrong way. They can be turned 360deg and the bottom say 60 deg is just open so the voltage will jump. When I get my butt into gear I'm going to post a replacement pot that can be loaded that will allow a larger range so units that are a bit out of whack can be fixed still.... Just got home from a couple of weeks on the road, so hopefully in the next few days i'll pull my unit out and work out a replacement part that can be loaded. (FYI only a few bucks each (or maybe cents) for replacement pots) Jeff

I have a Losi 8IGHT-E 2.0. I have a 2400kv motor in it with a few other mods. In it's current setup it's way to fast for track racing (well for me to drive anyway) hits over 100kph. Lots of fun! I can drag my R32 GTR off with it no worries ;-) If i'm about i'd love to catch up with some ppl for a bit of fun. Some of the 1/5 scale monsters must be awesome to see... Jeff

That's really interesting - my car was off the road for the winter too and had the same thing after a day or two of driving the error cropped up.

Spotted an R35 on Edmund Ave on Friday the 22 I think it was, Also spotted an R33 something just after drak on Thursday over on Wattle St Malvern, I was in the R32 GTR that was doing a U - turn. Sorry to flash u, hit my hi beams while turning the inductor on ;-) Jeff

Are you using a mig to weld it back together ? Sweet pics mate.

Awesome work there man - it'll be really interesting to see the results. Jeff

From Wikipedia: "The first number in the code (e.g., "225") represents the nominal tire width in millimetres. This is followed by the aspect ratio (e.g.,"70"), which is the height of the side wall expressed as a percentage of the nominal width. "R" stands for radial and relates to the tire construction. The final number in the code (e.g.,"14") is the rim size measured in inches. The overall circumference of the tire will increase by increasing any of the tire's specifications. For example increasing the width of the tire will also increase its circumference, because the side wall height is a proportional length. Increasing the aspect ratio will increase the height of the tire and hence the circumference." Jeff

OK thanks for that. Much appreciated. Just out of curiosity what did you use as a replacement ? I can try ratting one of my numerous Datsun spares but i'm nut sure if the yoke will mate up to the front pinion drive flange... My spares are over in Victoria still so just wondering. Thanks again! Jeff

Just replacing the clutch on my R32 GTR and I noticed the front drive shaft universal joints are about done. All the ones I have done in the past (all Datsuns not GTR's) Have a clip on each end cap holding it in. But these look like they are punched around the outside effectively making them locked in. How have people got around this in the past ? Thanks in advance, Jeff

Just my 2c but wouldn't it be better to flush the rad ? I mean replacing a leaking radiator is a lot cheaper than risking warping a head ect which can happen quite easy running as hot as you are. If it were me I would just flat out replace the thermostat, water pump and have the rad flushed. If the radiator comes up bad then you can work towards fixing it... Better safe than sorry I think. But that's just me. Hope you get'r fixed!! Jeff

Let me know if the fix works for you too :-) I did this on an R32 GTR VSpec not sure if all the other GTR's (R33's and R34's) are the same or not... Jeff T

Hi all, I think this is my first real post. Anyhoo, my G sensor started playing up and I had error code 13 with both the ABS and 4WD lights on my dash on. I decided to pull it apart and fix it rather than buy a new one. I'm a Digital Electronic Engineer but I think anybody could do this. I started by pulling the G sensor out of the car, removing all the screws from under the bottom of the sensor and pulling the plugs off the top of the sensor to make it easier to work on. After I pulled the sensor apart the first thing I noted was that an electrolytic capacitor had been leaking which had caused some corrosion on the PCB. I replaced the leaking caps, cleaned everything with PCB cleaner and remounted the sensor back in the car _without_ the metal housing on. After stating the car (in neutral on a level surface) I noted the three output voltages (see attached pic). One of mine was 2.53v the others were in the 2.20~2.31 volt range. I then adjusted the calibration pots (again see pic) so that all the output voltages were exactly 2.50volts (netural for the ATTESA computer). I shut the car down, restarted and abracadabra no more ABS and 4WD lights. FYI if you blow something up or damage anything following this it's not my fault!! Apologies if this is already up on the forum somewhere (I couldn't find it) Link to pic - https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=6875962&l=54a7f3bd68&id=616436020 Jeff T