datsun_1600

Adding my original picture back due to broken link.

Hey, Yeah sounds like the G-Sensor is the problem. Unfortunately it sounds like your sensor might be beyond repair :-( I have tried to repair sensors like yours in the past, but haven't had much luck. You can get them to stop throwing error codes on level ground, but the sensor characteristics are just awful. (ie Will engage front wheels at the slightest touch of the throttle, etc etc etc) I would say a new sensor might be the best way to go. Sorry I can't help more here. Wish I finished the little PCB replacement for the R32 I was working on. Twin babies seem to have gotten in the way of car projects.... Jeff

Something has to give. The average wheel circumference between the front and back of the car will never be "exactly" the same. If the clutch pack is fully engaged there will be a difference in wheel speed between the front and back of the car. Either the wheels spin just ever so slightly, or the clutch pack slips. Either way there is a HUGE loading on the front and read diffs - let alone the drive shafts, CV and uni joints, tail shaft, transfer case drive chain etc. Normally a diff will just left go. The weaker of the two is the front diff so in my experience that would be the one that blows. I'm sure the rear is showing signs of wear. That is why you never ever run a run a 4x4 (with no centre diff) on tarmac, not even for a second. Edit - or maybe he got lucky and everything is ok, just the front diff blew. As an engineer I would have to pull it down and rebuilt it, just to put my mind at ease lol. Jeff

This happens when the G sensor goes. Power is sent to the front on even the slightest movement. I've played with the sensor a fair bit and have seen this happen. Check out my thread on re-calibrating it (or sounds like yours might be too far gone). It's probably flogged out both diffs, and maybe the transfer case too. It would be like driving a Patrol in 4x4 on tarmac, diffs will only last a very short time. Sorry to hear about this. I might be wrong, just my 2c. Sounds like two new diffs at the very least and probably a new transfer case. Not too expensive to fix, but might take weekend or two to fix it (if you are doing it yourself) Jeff

I found this article interesting: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=107753 The G sensor is pivotal to how the system reacts. Also it might be worth re-calibrating the G-sensor. You can see how I did it in my thread here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356654-r32-gtr-g-sensor-fix/ Regards, Jeff

I'm interested in this too. Mostly for my older Datsuns. I've found that leather wipes (I used Meguiar's Gold Class Leather Wipes) work better than ArmorAll which seems to dry the plastic out after awhile. I've also herd baby oil works well. But haven't tried that yet. I have the same problem too, I need a product to penetrate the plastic to make it supple again. I know brake fluid works temporarily, but it makes a big mess, smells, and shortens the life of the plastic in the long run. Jeff

I would respectfully disagree on going +1mm rear toe out. I would try a little toe in as suggested by Duncan first.

^ Yes. Defiantly check this too.

I haven't read your old thread, but if it was my car I would be checking the ignitor, ignition coils and CAS. Jeff

Here are my 2c. Some of it is not applicable...Unless you live at Mt Hotham..... Having lived in Canada and started cars quite often at -40C or colder there is more to it than just starting and driving away. When the oil is really really really cold even the best oils are like treacle. No make that peanut butter. So what happens when you start the car, even with a block heater, you can see oil pressure on the gauge, but the oil may not have made it to the bearings. (ie the oil is still making its way through the oil passages. Plus for anyone who has primed an oil pump with a drill, you know how hard it is to turn at pressure - just imagine how hard it would be to run with peanut butter in it... lots of stress everywhere...... So in this situation you have high pressure, and very very little flow. So when it's really really cold I did let my car idle for a few mins before driving off. One crazy cold night when it was -55C I let our F350 6.0L Diesel fast idle all night as there was no way it was going to start the next morning. For my Stanza race car I have an oil pan heater and a block heater. That way when I start it, the oil is warm and the engine water is also warm. For my GTR (standard) I start it and just drive off slowly and don't run boost until the oil is at operating temp. Jeff

Apologies for being slightly off topic. You know what I would put in the 240z if I had the $$$$. L series with a DOHC head... http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/02/engine-porn-os-giken-tc24-b1z/

Woops my bad - should have posted this here: My apologies to the mods. I'm doing a suspension mod and need some 3/4 bright mild steel rod. Where can I buy this stuff from in Adelaide. Preferably southern Adelaide... Google comes back a few results, all of which are NFG. If only JB Cameron's or somebody would open in Adelaide... There must be an equivalent ? Thanks! Jeff

Hi, I need to buy some 3/4 bright mild steel rod. Where the heck can I buy this stuff from in Adelaide. Preferably southern Adelaide... Google comes back a few results, all of which are NFG. If only JB Cameron's or somebody would open in Adelaide... There must be an equivalent surely ? Thanks! Jeff

I almost had a huge problem when I changed my timing belt on my GTR. When I installed the tensioner pulley I accidentally had the tensioner spring sitting behind the mounting flange of the pulley. That would have made some funny sounds I bet (as the pulley would have been misaligned slightly) May have even rubbed on the front cover as the clearances are quite tight. Hard to see without a mirror as it only angles the pulley a little, as it was crimped between the pulley and the front of the block on the bottom side (hard to see). Thank goodness for those triple checks before starting. Jeff Edit: A picture is worth a thousand words, here it is ('ve replaced it again since) You can see the very slight indent where the spring got between the pulley and the block.

Just FYI I wouldn't be doing a Rockwell test on the bore. 1.) When the test tool is pressed into the bore it will damage it (ie leave a mark) and 2.) The sharp pointed bits we use to do the test may actually fracture the bore. Doing it on a non finished surface (ie the outside of the block) would be much safer. Just my 2c - Jeff

If you ignore blowby, HP figures are totally unrelated to oil pressure and flow. You could have a 50HP RB26DETT with oil drain back issues. Just say'n, don't rule anything out due to hp figures. Jeff

MMMmmm Interesting, not sure hat it could be! I've seen air do funny things like this, but i'm guessing you have the oil pickup sealed correctly... bit hard to check I guess. Good luck :-)

You say you used the girdle (and therefore, main bearing caps) off another block - did you have it line bored afterwards ? If not, i'm just wondering if a misaligned set of mains could cause some sort of weird oil pressure issue you are seeing. Each block's mains/girdle are specific to the block they came out of. Jeff

The best advice I can give regarding max oil pressure is about 10psi per 1000rpm. So on my Datto engines I set it between 85 and 90PSI for a redline of 8500 to 9000 rpm. I like to see a min of 25psi at idle (hot) and 50psi by about 2800rpm (hot). My stepfathers ex John Atkinson Works rally Subaru, runs a little more than that. It see's about 90psi, even though the engine only revs to 7K. The works LZ works Rally Stanza's were set around 90psi for a 9000rpm redline, the L series variants ran a tad lower (but had a lower redline) Just my 2c. I'm no RB expert! Jeff

In my opinion: 100% the shop broke it doing something stupid. The casting should never break like that.

And to add a bit more to the fire, remember during the loading phase of the crank rotation (ie take for example the big end right after fuel ignition) the bearing separation comes from the pressure created hydraulically as the pressure from the conrod tries to force the oil film out of the bearing. If we were using just the oil pump to keep the big ends separated, we would need like 3000psi of oil pressure. Hence why big ends knock with incorrect bearing clearances, even though they may see 70psi of oil pressure. Jeff

Sorry for the rant, but spotted a crap looking grey R33 on the Seaford Esplanade about 6:40pm tonight. If I see you tailgating and driving like that again i'll report you. People like you give imports a bad name, buy a commodore with steel rear wheels; and sell the R33 to somebody with brains.

R32 Injectors also go bad and leak between the plastic and the metal case. So check those out too. With that much fuel coming out I wouldn't be starting the car. Just have a mate turn the ignition off and on. It will pressurize the fuel system for a few seconds. Should be super easy to find where it's coming from.

In my experience it is a little more complicated than this. It depends on what the engine is used for. I'm not an RB expert, but have built many (way to many) Datsun L series performance engines. The oil squirter on the big end of the the conrod is for oiling the cylinder bores and the piston small end. Thus (at least in Datsun engines) it must be aimed towards the thrust side of the block. That said, I have run engines with and without them. Here are my thoughts / things to consider: 1.) If you are running too high an oil pressure the amount of oil aimed on the cylinder wall / piston will be too high and lead to smoking / oil consumption. In my experience, up to about 75~80psi in a Datsun engine is ok, 80~100psi = too much oil on the bores. I'm guessing RB's would suffer from this too (although not sure of the pressure at which this would occur) 2.) If the engine is a race engine and the squirters are peened shut (or not existent) the cylinder walls / piston pins rely on the oil thrown off the crankshaft. Peening the oil squirter shut helps with big end oil pressure as none of it is lost in oiling the walls / pistons. In this case I did not run a windage tray, as I wanted that oil to be thrown around. 3.) If the oil squirters are closed or not existent, you are relying on the motion of the crankshaft to throw oil onto the pistons / bores. This works ok in a race engine where the RPM is normally sitting between 5000 and 9000rpm (at least on my Datsun engines) but does not work that great at low RPM (ie a city driven car) 4.) On teardown / inspection of various engines I have found the big end bearings have less ware when the squirters are closed, however there is more bore / piston wear on the thrust side, especially on engines which I have driven on the street. So, in all the engines I build now, I add two groves (as suggested) to the big ends. Offset slightly so oil is aimed at the piston pin and also the thrust side of the bores. Attached is a picture of a Datsun conrod for comparison (as well as a custom conrod and custom JE piston I am about to use.) Just my 2c - think about what the engine is going to be used for. Street - notch the conrods. Race - leave them out. Edit - and don't forget to re-balance the rods end for end after they are notched (if it's going to see any high rpm)

I can only comment on my R32 GTR but... Also confirm that the relays are getting power when the lights are turned on. On a GTR they are in the relay / fuse box on the left side of the engine bay. I've had both the rotary switch die and a relay connection go bad.