Jap_Muscle

I guess thats up to the buyer, most likely at this stage id just be looking at getting it registered. Maybe down the track hell get it engineered. Would anyone actually have any phone numbers or details who i can actually call to confirm if they can take on the job?

Hi guys, I have a potential buyer for my GTR which is located in melb however the buyer is interested in registering it in QLD. The car isnt very discrete ( rb30, top mount, straight pipe exhaust) so if anyone has an idea on how i can make this as smooth as possible? The car is currently registered in VIC

All sorted guys. Thanksl

Haha, yeh I know =[

No good imafraid on the listed workshops in the sticky. Made sure I was calling updated numbers too =[

Hi Guys, Just when the weather started getting good i noticed a oil leak on the intake side. Seems like quite alot too. Not sure if its a cam seal or possibly something to do witht he oil filter but i need it checked out asap. Anyone know any shops that are open atm? Preferably in the south east. Cheers

Anyone know any performance workshops that are open during the holidays? have a oil leak from the intake side =[

Thanks for that mate, ill try tightening it up. hopefully that fixes it.

Do you get alot of heat coming from under it?

thought so. i dont suppose it will be any diffeerent if i just went out and bought some regular house insulation and placed it in the same spot?

Hi Guys, Over the past few months my car has suffered from a extremely annoying situation where the car cabin starts to heat up alot and more then often, forces me to blast the AC on to have it bareable. Ive double checked its not my heater that is stuck on or anything like that. It seems the source of the heat is coming from under the gear boot. I pulled it apart and this is what i see. About 8months back i had my mech install a Short shifter, however im not quite sure but i recall there being insulation around the boot. Can anyone confirm this?

This thread is about selling a complete engine package. Not a car, however if people are interested in the actual car this engine is in. Feel free to PM me.

Great news guys!! Originally had the starter motor replaced as the car has been struggling to start over the past month. Suspected bad earth could have caused the high idle. Had it replaced but did not fix the issue. We then replaced the TPS due to a weird a voltage range from 0.39v - 2.56v. After resetting this and replacing the actual TPS unit, we were hopeful but still no change. Finally after replacing the Idle Control Regulator (had to rip the plenum off to do this) the cars idling at a smooth 950rpm. After close to a year of sounding like i was launching off the line at every intersection, i am pleased to say the problem has been solved. Thank you to everyone help!!! p.s - if anyone is having problems with idle please shoot me a PM, ill try to be as helpful as i can.

Turbo included. The comment just meant that if you wanted to go bigger, you wouldn't be restricted engine wise.....to a certain extent I guess. The power was made on a r34 gtt so RWD. I'm also open to trades for complete rb25 neos or rb26s

No problem

Hi Ryu, I dont quite understand your response. Yes i am asking a price well below what it has cost me to build.

Hi Guys, Putting out the possibility of selling the entire engine setup of my RB26/30 to make way for a new project car. The specs are below. Built By RE Customs -R33 RB26 Head Greddy Cam Gears Jun Crank Collar -RB30 Block 9:1 Comp Ratio Cometic Head Gasket Spool Rods CP Pistons -Exhaust Side Exhaust side ported and polished Garrett GT35r V-Band 0 .82 Turbocharger (housing ceramic coated) inc all braided lines 6boost Steampipe Manifold (ceramic coated) Tial external 60mm wastegate (ceramic coated) inc all braided lines Screamer Pipe (Off 60mm wastegate vented to atmo, ceramic coated) -Intake Side Intake side port matched to runners OEM GTR Plenum + Individual throttle bodies K&N Pod Filter -Fuel System Twin Entry Greddy 10.5mm Fuel Rail SARD 1000cc Injectors Tomei Type L Fuel Pressure Regulator Engine was serviced every 2,500kms for the first 10,000kms and then every 5,000kms after that. Since the build it has only run 15,000kms. Car made 403rwkw with a Garret GT35r 0.82, I have yet to see a 3L gt35r make power this efficiently. Drop this engine combo in any setup with a decent size turbo and you WILL make serious power. The entire build over a number of months cost me in excess of $25,000. Im probably missing some info so If anyone wants more infomation please post and ill try my best to get onto it. Looking for $25,000ono SMS/call 0421691338 or PM

sorry wrong thread

My gt35r 26/30 setup was stuck at 350kw no matter what I did. Even whn using e85 it only gained about 18kw no matter how mch boost we used. We replaced the Crank angle sensor and power shot to 403kw straight away on less boost. If you've got a older gen skyline I hear things things tend to be on their way out. But to be safe I'd be checking that. Makes sense why it wouldn make more power/boost if the timings unstable.

I had sourced a second hand AAC (Auxiliry Air Control - 23781-05U11, i hope this is what your talkn about pic http://simex.sakura.ne.jp/blog/hermes-DSCN7515.jpg) and there was no change what so ever. Will check it again when i pull it aprt. How exactly do you check the tensioner spring? Replaced the gasket with a new nissan one http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/nissan-gasket-aac-valve-genuine-nissan-skyling-r32-gts-gtst-gts4-gts25-rb20de-rb20det-rb25de-p-1090.html Ill make sure to unplug the AAC and see what it does the next time i open it up. Also ordered a new TPS and Cols start Valve.

Post your full build specs

sorry wrong thread.

Still for sale mate, and yes im neg. SMS/Call 0421691338 or PM me

Your right mate, Its says UV Cut on the side. So it dosnt reduce any heat? I also called the tint guy again and he explained that the UV cut glass most likely dosnt block all UV rays, so its recommended to at least put somethign over the glass.

My cars stupidly hot and i have 35% on the fronts and factory privacy glass on the rears. Called a Tint guy over yesterday to get something a bit darker on the front (dw i know all about the legalities) however he mentioned that most of the heat is probably coming from the rear because factory privacy glass dosnt protect against anything. Is this correct? Surely it does something?