JET200

We are running GTR Challenge AND Drag Battle so as long as it's post 88 and powered by a Japanese Performance Import engine and makes the grade, it's all good. We have allowed some exceptions here and there, but generally for an exotic or something cool

Few reasons actually: 1000 entrants who all think their car is most important and want track time constantly changing weather requiriing constant change in program to keep the most amount of people happy Retard who break rules, requiring more changes Oil downs, also from retards, making track worse Eastern Creek and CAMS stepping in at times. the list goes on Anyone who has run a national level event, let alone one with 1000 entrants, will tell you it aint easy. They did the best they could for the situation. A lot of people would have closed the track all day Friday and most of Saturday, but they did what they could to keep pople doing something. Organising motorkhana/drift/thrash demos o the straight was a great idea to keep people amused and something happening.

We have some lined up, but the more the merrier. As long as they aren;t stock though

Thinking? It's the best fun you'll have in your car. Just ask the guys who have been. It's not like a normal event

Hey guys I've spent the last hour looking through old threads, so I have searched but just want to ask some questions to people that HAVE put R34 GT-R brakes on their R32 GT-R. No need to sell me some other option as already have the calipers, rotors and pads. I know you need to re-drill the R32 GT-R hubs to accept the 14mm bolts of the R34 GT-R caliper. That seems easy enough. Just use a drill with the right size drill bit. Questions 1. Do the rears just bolt straight on? Does the R32 handbrake set-up still work fine inside R34 rotor? Do you use the R32 GT-R brake lines or R34 brake lines? 2. On the front, do R32 GT-R brake lines bolt straight up? If so will order some R32 GT-R braided lines. 3. Can you get away with using R32 GT-R master cylinder? Or do you HAVE to change to R34 GT-R? Any help would be appreciated. Better to go into it armed with correct knowledge than finding anything out the hard way

Hey guys I've spent the last hour looking through old threads, so I have searched but just want to ask some questions to people that HAVE put R34 GT-R brakes on their R32 GT-R. No need to sell me some other option as already have the calipers, rotors and pads. I know you need to re-drill the R32 GT-R hubs to accept the 14mm bolts of the R34 GT-R caliper. That seems easy enough. Just use a drill with the right size drill bit. Questions 1. Do the rears just bolt straight on? Does the R32 handbrake set-up still work fine inside R34 rotor? Do you use the R32 GT-R brake lines or R34 brake lines? 2. On the front, do R32 GT-R brake lines bolt straight up? If so will order some R32 GT-R braided lines. 3. Can you get away with using R32 GT-R master cylinder? Or do you HAVE to change to R34 GT-R? Any help would be appreciated. Better to go into it armed with correct knowledge than finding anything out the hard way

Wont last long on that power level. We did a Evo at CRD that made 340 odd kW @ wheels on stock internals and the owner wasn't shy. It's didnt detonate or anything but it bent a rod! The bent rod lead to the bearing catching. They caught it quick and pulled the engine down and all that was wrong was 2 bent rods and one bearing starting to let go. No damage to bores, rings or pistons. Tune determines if a power level is safe but sometimes you can literally over power a factory component

Yo Upgrading to Brembos so have R32 GT-R brakes front and rear for sale. Includes rotors and pads which are perfectly usable and have plenty of life left. $500 Also have a no name brand alloy radiator for R32 GTS or GTR. Havn;t used it as in thet ime it took to arrive I found a thicker radiator that looks factory which is what I wanted the engine bay to look like. $150 Prefer pick up from SIlverwater or buyer can pay for postage. PM or email [email protected]

I think that the craziness of Pro Class is great. It allows free thinking and ideas you could never implement in controlled motorsport categories. I agree that Mark Berry's R34 and the MCS S13 look completely ridiculous from a " i want m car to look like that" point of view but in a logical way they look kinda cool But I also like that Open Class stays true the cause a bit more. I think a few further regs might need to be put in place to really keep that differentiation. \ Pro Class has one appeal, and open class has the appeal of still looking like the original car. Pull the wing and splitter of most cars in Open and take the stickers off and them look like JDM styled street cars. We decided to keep JET200 Open class so that Motive DVD viewers can still relate to the car and buy the bits it uses. A Pro class car is too out of reach for 99.9% of our viewers and out of reach of my bank balance! lol

Pro class is getting out of control!!! Think I'll stick with open class where the cars still resemble the street cars they started as

There is two ways to look at it. If all you look at is the facts, the R35 wins. Performance statistics, warranty, new, reliability etc etc etc But if you look at emotion, then its a different story. Personally, I think nothing beats driving JEt200 at the track. 350rwkW, 1100kg, rear wheel drive and NO driver aids at all. Raw driving pleasure. but some poeple prefer dual clutch and electronics and only care if they beat someone else.

That, and driven/been in a couple with a few extra herbs.....a few hundred extra!!! But, in the same way dude's in the 50's say " you can't beat old school mate" I'm gonna say it too, but my version of old school is an R32 GT-R........ like the one in my garage now

Hey guys We made this video with DSPORT in the US when the R35 went on sale, so it's a bit old, but thought would share it with you all. My thoughts have changed slightly since making tis

My trailer just got stolen. Interested when my insurance payout comes. Might be good for a tidy up project

Mate has one. Minus front end but can get back. Has suspension work but can turn back to stock. Reaprayed Green but painter can change. Missing some interior

I got a bite Forget this silly argument. Buy a GTR to have a GTR. If u want a light RWD that overtakes GTRs round the track, then get a Silvia. JET200 weighs 1100kg and makes 350rwkw. Drove around GTRs with 400 and ran sub 1:40s at EC If you know how to build and drive a well set up race car, RWD is perfectly fine. But if u want to win WTAC, look at the previous leaderboards......

We were paid to make it in 2010 Weren't contracted in 2011 and originally told couldn't make our own one, then a month after event were told we could. Have enough content to make a DVD but no budget. If we know in advance we can pre sell air time and copies and afford to make a 2012 one. Will have a fair bit of content in next Motive DVD though

Planning on entering JET200 - fix oil surge with custom sump and accumulator - fit 295s rear and 265 or 295 front - finally put some front aero on it - boost per gear mapping dog box and other stuff too expensive and have to wait. Aim for 1:37 bracket. WInning open is WAY too far off these days Will have Motive stand there and maybe we can make a DVD again this year

Thought you might PJ! Next DVD due out end of Feb. Will have all three rounds of ADGP and Track Battle coverage. MIght do two-disk Motive 14 as we have HEAPS of content to put out including World Time Attack, Tectaloy Drift Challenge, Perth hotspots and much more

PUSH

Anyone heard of Gates timing belts being too stiff/tight etc and causing it? Might put genuine NIssan one in instead

Those searches are for the idler BOLT I broke the tensioner STUD

Hi everyone Just got our R32 GT-R running again and something gone wrong already. Driving to airport and back in traffic a noise started that sounded like engine fan rubbing on shroud. Car still drove pefectly fine. When I got home I opened engine and could hear the noise had gotten louder and putting my hand on thef ront engine cover could feel the vibration and noise. Removed fron cover and belt is loose and tensioner on drivers side isn't doing anything. Belt has rubbed on inside of cover and started to shred but put engine to TDC and everything lined up fine so cams haven't moved at all. Removed balancer etc and found that the stud that holds the tensioner ( drivers side one with spring ) had completely snapped off and I'll ahve to get a thread removal guy to come out and pull out the broken stud and put new one in. Question is, has anyone ever seen this? Or have a potential reason why it might happen? Before you ask, I changed timing belt and both tensioners before putting engine in so has done around 1000km on 11psi and 180kW@wheels. Was done up correctly etc.