Hanaldo

The ones I got from MTQ are high tensile, highly heat resistant.

Fixed.

Yeh it didn't sound metallic to me which is why I didn't think it was knock. But worst case scenario it is knock, so I'll treat it as such until I can resolve it. I've checked all the hose clamps and vacuum hoses and everything is nice and tight. Thing is, it didn't cut power completely like a blown clamp or vacuum leak usually would. It felt like a little bit of a flat spot when the noise came on, but only just noticeable and only really to me because I know how my car feels. My mates didn't really feel it. Yeh well I was connected to NIStune when it occurred and it didn't trigger the knock maps. AFR's were good, timing looked fine, it was still in the primary maps, everything was normal. But then I don't want to put complete faith in the stock knock sensors. And my car is LOUD. External gate, screamer etc. This noise was when I was on full song and it was definitely audible. I just didn't want to take it lightly; an engine noise under full load that I haven't heard before on a hot day after the car had been given a fair hiding... If it's a lazy plug or something like that then I'm all good, but if it's knock...

As above, needs to be rewired.

Yes they are Iridiums. I'll try some new coppers. Won't load it up again until I've tried. Thanks mate.

I THINK they are NGK Iridium BKR6EIX, but it's been over a year since I put them in so can't really remember

Hey all, I was just out giving my car a bit of stick, and on my way home it made a strange sort of sound on high boost. To me it sounded a bit like I had blown a hose clamp, it was that sort of hesitation gurgling noise from the engine but without the obvious cut in power. My mechanic mate in the car said it sounded like detonation to him, I've never personally heard detonation so I'm not sure. Thing is, it is intermittent. I kept my eye on my AFR gauge and on full load it was at around 10.5-11, which is normal. So I gave it a few full load runs listening for the sound and watching all my gauges, but it seemed to have stopped, was all going fine. So I thought maybe it got hot and pinged a bit. But then on the last run it happened again. It was also backfiring a little more than normal and it is popping around on idle a fair bit (my car has quite a profound lean pop normally but it seems like more than normal to me). Now I'm thinking maybe coilpacks or sparkplugs? The coilpacks are Splitfires though, and the plugs are NGK's gapped to 0.8. Any advice? I wouldn't have thought there could be any confusion between those sounds?

MTQ Engine Systems, that's the name of the place http://www.mtqes.com.au/

Never heard of that before... It's four fkn bolts, not rocket science

Noticed you're in Perth, mind if I ask who is building the motor???

52mm and 60mm will both fit fine. Any brand. /thread.

Dunno how far it is from you, but I got mine from MTQ.

Yes, meaning it wasn't tuned for 20psi in the correct load cells. You put more load on the engine and add more boost without tuning for it then of course it's going to detonate. I don't get your comment about the TP cut. If you increase the boost at all over factory then there is a chance it will detonate. This is why you get your AFR's checked when you do modifications like that, you don't just let it hit TP cut for 3 years thinking that means it is safe

Exactly. Wasted spark just means two plugs fire at the same time, one during the compression stroke and one during the exhaust stroke. The one during the exhaust stroke does nothing, hence wasted.

Fair enough. I was making 350rwhp on a Dyno Dynamics dyno with the previous turbo, and the car definitely feels faster now. But my ass dyno may be out Will find out when I get down to the next whoop ass

This has gone full retard.

You could do it for a lot cheaper man. My main expenses were my breather hoses which were $260. Few other bits and pieces that added up but you could do for cheaper. I needed: Spacer plate. Extended high tensile manifold studs and nuts. High tensile bolts for the turbo. Oil control hose for breathers. Oil control hose for return oil line. Modifications to intake pipe. Relocate radiator overflow bottle. Modifications to hot cooler pipe. 4"-3" reducer. 2.5" 90 degree bend. Hose clamps. That's all I can remember

Possibly... But that second dyno run ended at 5600rpm. And if you overlay the graphs and add 6% on for the correction method then they are pretty much exactly the same up to that point. So I guess I have about 370rwhp if you take off the 6%. Farkin dynos. I needa hit the strip and get some trap speeds. Did I hear someone say you were all coming to Perth?

Manual conversion should do the trick

I use Khumo KU36's on the street and on the track I use Bridgestone Potenza RE55S'. Street tyres are stretched 225 front and back on 8.5" front and 9.5" rear. Track tyres are 235 front and 245 rear.

Hence my comment about flow

It would depend on flow of air filter/exhaust etc. So anywhere between 12psi to 15psi. Hence why it's always a good idea to get the AFR's checked when you remove it.

I really think a lot of people on here need better tyres... I'm making 390rwhp and I don't spin at all unless I stab the clutch. Otherwise it's all grip. Even with 350rwhp, I was gripping while punching it hard through corners.

I hope he looked up the right stuff then

I wish there was a simple answer to that.